Troki Virginia Creeper
The Garden Website for October
New: Building a French Kitchen (Potager) Garden
New: Colourful Fall Plants
Mushrooms & Toadstools - Overwintering Tender Bulbs - In the Veggie Garden
Garden Bed Preparation - Caterpillar Control - Protecting Planters - Planters for Fall
Pruning - Fall Lawn Care - Winter Protection - Hate Your Lawn
October Introduction - October Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog - October Garden Chores
October Flower Arrangement - October Plant of the Month - Japanese Maples
Need Help? - Learn How to Prune - Ornamental Tropical Shrubs
New: Colourful Fall Plants
Mushrooms & Toadstools - Overwintering Tender Bulbs - In the Veggie Garden
Garden Bed Preparation - Caterpillar Control - Protecting Planters - Planters for Fall
Pruning - Fall Lawn Care - Winter Protection - Hate Your Lawn
October Introduction - October Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog - October Garden Chores
October Flower Arrangement - October Plant of the Month - Japanese Maples
Need Help? - Learn How to Prune - Ornamental Tropical Shrubs
October Intro
The autumn leaves of the Katsura tree, Cercidiphyllum japonicum, smell like burned sugar when they turn colour.
Hello Fellow Gardeners,
When I lived up north in Labrador City and Fort McMurray, the onset of winter began in earnest in October. Freezing temperatures had ruined all tender plants before a single snowflake had fallen. Frost often arrived in August, decimating tomatoes before they managed to ripen. What a pain that was. Putting the garden to bed was done in August or September, while masses of green tomatoes did their best to ripen on the kitchen counter. Now I live in the temperate climate of British Columbia. Frost usually shows up around November, sometimes later, and occasionally not at all. I remember a few winters, where the coldest temperatures were just above freezing. That hasn’t happen for some time though. In my neck of the woods, the southern coast of B.C., October is a good time to wrap up in the garden. It's not frost that turns tomato plants to mush, but fog. The air, saturated with water and fungal spores, inoculates them with diseases leading to their demise and the end of picking fresh tomatoes off the vine! It’s time to finish harvesting, put down winter mulch, and clean up infected and infested plant debris, weed and that is just the beginning of a very busy garden month. Once the garden is done, it’s time to clean out greenhouses, sanitize pots, sort out the shed, bring in any fertilizer, dormant oil and lime sulfur so they don’t freeze. Tools are cleaned and sharpened and garden furniture is stored. That’s what I want to accomplish, however, sometimes it’s a real scramble to finish up everything before winter arrives. It’s no fun being caught off guard when old Jack Frost rips through the garden early. It has happened. Last year we got frost in October much to the surprise of gardeners and the poor horrified plants. That’s one thing about living on the coast, you just never know what the weather is going to be like. No matter where you live, whether you are already shoveling snow or still harvesting your veggies, may you have a beautiful, gentle and safe October. Cheers, Amanda 
It's pumpkin time!
October PLANT COMBO
At Sophie's feet lie a mixed collection of annuals, perennials and a miniature deep pink rose, I don't know the name of. The silver lacy leaves belong to dusty miller, (Jacobaea maritima). They are a hardy annual that lasts a few years if they are not left to flower, depending on the weather and climate (Zones 7 to 10). The purple blossoms are fall asters, also called Michaelmas daisies. They have been pinched back a few times throughout the growing season to keep them more compact. If left to their own devices, they would be taller than the statue. Behind Sophie is a tall yellow tree peony, and to the right is a Japanese maple tree called 'Red Spider'. This garden bed faces south but is partially shaded by the canopy of a flowering cherry tree on the right and the cedar hedge behind it.
plant police
These banana plants would do better without this method of winter protection.
This is no way to overwinter banana trees, for numerous reasons. First, bananas are herbaceous perennials, not trees. They are non-woody and don't develop bark. Stems originate from underground rhizome like grasses and bamboo, which means their stems don't live forever. In fact, once a stem produces flowers and fruit, they fall over and die, only to be replaced by another. Therefore, the best way to ensure banana plants successfully overwinter is to protect their roots, more so than protecting their stems. The plastic, which is tightly wrapped around these banana plants does more harm than good. They keep moisture in and block air, causing rot and mould. They also have no significant insulating value. A better solution would be to remove the plastic and surround each plant with a cage and fill it up with leaves, shredded newspapers or straw. For more on overwintering bananas and palms click here.
A better way to protect bananas is to cage them, and don't use plastic.
Building a French Kitchen (Potager) Garden
Our new potager garden is quite prolific and floriferous.
Finally, due to he pandemic, we had time to work on our own garden. We needed more room to grow veggies, but I wanted something more stylish that a flat beds. Ever since I learned about French kitchen gardens, I wanted one. So this year, we took the plunge and got down and dirty, especially my husband, and made it so. I wrote about it in my blog, so feel free to check it out by clicking here.
For a walk through of the finished garden click my You Tube video below. Mushrooms & Toadstools
These out-of-this-world orb structures are actually toadstools.
It’s common for wild mushrooms to magically appear in lawns and gardens this time of year. As part of nature’s recycling crew, they break down any organic matter that’s either on top the soil or within it. They’ll often appear where a tree once grew, shadowing their buried roots as they break them down.
When they pop up in the lawn, don't mow them down, as it spreads their spores and scatters the broken pieces. A better idea is to pluck them from the lawn and discard them. This ensures that they are not eaten by children and animals, especially dogs, as they seem to like them. Both mushrooms and toadstools come in a vast array of sizes, colours and shapes. It’s often quite difficult to differentiate between edible wild mushrooms from toxic toadstools. This is why it is not advisable to eat any of them unless you are educated in telling the difference between the two. 
Don't begrudge toadstools and mushrooms as they break down organic matter.
Colourful FALL Plants
Persian ironwood (Parrotia persica) always puts on a colourful fall show.
It's time to get the camera out before the excitement of brilliant coloured fall plants loose their lustre and their foliage. If you need some seasonal wow, visit your local garden centre as I am sure they can set you up with some beauties.
For a list and fab photos of colourful trees, shrubs, vines, berries and ornamental grasses, click on the link below to be redirected to: Colourful Fall Plants. 
The American ash (Fraxinus americana) aptly named 'Autumn Applause'.
Overwintering Tender Bulbs
Lift gladiolus, dahlias, tuberous begonias and other tender bulbs after frost or when they start to decline. Don't forget to label each one as you go. Once bulbs, corms and tubers have been lifted, remove as much soil as possible by hand then place them in a dry area, away from frost and moisture for a week to cure. After curing, place them in cardboard boxes so they are not touching. Dust with nature’s fungicide: a healthy dose of cinnamon, then cover completely with dry vermiculite, perlite, peat moss or sterile potting soil. Store in a dry, frost free but cool place (4 to 8 degrees Celsius) such as a heated garage or basement. Click on the following links for more info on: Dahlias, Tuberous Begonias
Wait for gladiolus foliage to yellow before digging them up and storing for winter.
Gladious: Allow their leaves to turn yellow before lifted them. If you can't wait, lift them while still green and hang them upside down in a frost free location until the leaves yellow. Once the leaves turn yellow, cut off the stems just above the corms. Place dry corms in a cardboard box surround by vermiculite, peat moss, sawdust of clean, dry potting soil. Dust with layer of cinnamon to reduce disease. Store in a frost free location. Avoid storing in plastic to reduce rotting. Remove the shriveled corm next year before planting.
Store tender summer bulbs in cardboard boxes and cover with vermiculite or dry sterile potting soil, in a cool, frost free location.
In The Veggie Garden
Harvest beets as you need them.
Tomatoes: Clean up ALL debris, including any wayward tomatoes on the ground to prevent overwintering insects, diseases and any volunteer seedlings that may pop up next year. If you want to save the seeds of tasty tomatoes for next year click here to learn how.
Cool Crops: Leave Brussels sprouts, Swiss chard, cabbage, turnips, kale, carrots and other cool crops in situ, as they enjoy fall’s cool weather. A slight frost enhances their flavour, so keep on harvesting as long as the plants are producing and tasting good. For more on veggie gardening click here. Harvest: Gather any remaining crops and discard any unhealthy ones including any lying on the ground. Remove any fallen veg such as tomatoes so any diseases or insects won’t haunt you next year. For more on harvesting, click here. Protect the soil: Bare soil any time of the year isn’t a good idea, but it’s even more troublesome in winter due to leaching of nutrients, soil erosion and weeds. It’s a bit too late for many cover crops such as crimson clover, but there should be time for fava beans, fall rye, winter wheat and white mustard. If you don’t want to plant a cover crop, cover bare soil with a few inches of autumn leaves, straw and even thick layers of newspapers will do. Plant garlic now to harvest in July. Select a well-drained sunny site and add some compost, as they are heavy feeders. Break apart the cloves from the bulb and plant them 2 to 3 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart. Cure winter squash: After harvesting acorn, spaghetti squash and pumpkins, cure in a warm, frost free location for 4 to 5 days. To prevent mould, wipe them down first with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Store at 10 to 15 C (50 to 60F). Sow Seeds: Direct seed for winter gardening beets, broad (fava) beans, radishes and spinach. For more on winter gardening click here.
Garden Bed Prep
Leaves: Save yourself the trouble of raking and bagging fall foliage. A ‘clean’ garden robs the soil and its inhabitants of vital organic material required for a healthy soil - and they provide plants with nutrients as they decompose. Leaves, twigs and other plant debris also have the added advantage of providing homes for overwintering lady bugs, lacewings and other beneficial insects. Do remove infested and infected plant parts and discard.
Unburden evergreen shrubs and trees, from layers of leaves to prevent distorted growth and rot. Just shake the plant free from the foliage, let it fall to the ground and leave it be. Discarding buggy, diseased unhealthy growth from all plants. Perennials: Cut back herbaceous perennials (non-woody) plants to 4 to 6 inches from the ground to increase their winter hardiness. Note that beneficial insects to overwinter hollow stems ex: lilies, delphiniums, Autumn Joy sedum, Himalayan honeysuckle and (Leycesteria formosa). Water: Water plants protected from rain (under eaves and trees) and those in containers, before freezing temperatures arrive. Dry soil reduces plant hardiness and resilience to freezing temperatures. No Nitrogen: Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers (first number highest) as it promotes lush new leaves that are quickly killed by below freezing temperatures. Ornamental Grasses: Leave them be! Don’t cut them back until spring as their seeds heads provide food for overwintering hungry birds. Plants are also hardier as their stems protect the crowns during the winter. 
Hydrangea flowers make a pretty and effective chop and drop mulch.
Chop & Drop:
Instead of discarding healthy leaves and stems from chrysanthemums, cone flowers and other herbaceous perennials, just pile them on top and around the plant. Cut stems back to 4 to 6 inches, then either cut the stems into pieces or leave them as is. This provides plants with added winter protection. Don’t chop and drop diseased or infested plants. Always remove and discard peony leaves every fall to prevent Peony Measles (Red Spot, Leaf Blotch). For more on fall garden clean-up click here. 
Discard peony leaves, especially ones infected with peony measles! For more click on the picture.
Caterpillar Control
Stop insects in their tracks by wrapping trees with a sticky tree band.
To prevent forest tent caterpillars and other insects from infesting fruit trees, ornamental Japanese cherries, and other susceptible trees, stop them in their tracks with a sticky trap. Wrap a 15 centimetre (6 inch) wide band of plastic wrap or foil backed pink insulation around tree trunks at a convenient height. Spread Vaseline or Tanglefoot ® on the band. If using Tanglefoot, wear rubber gloves and use an old or foam paintbrush, or sturdy stick to spread this sticky, thick goopy stuff. And don’t get it in your hair as you will have to cut it out. The sticky band catches insects before they do any damage. It is an effective way to control pests without using any insecticides.
Wrap a 15 centimetre (6 inch) wide band of plastic wrap or foil backed pink insulation around tree trunks at a convenient height. Spread Tanglefoot ® or a thick layer of Vaseline on the band. If using Tanglefoot®, wear rubber gloves and use an old paintbrush or a foam one to spread this sticky, thick goopy stuff. Don’t forget to remove the banding in March. For more click here. |
Amanda's Garden Blog & New articles
A grapevine Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades, California is coloured red for fall.
Click on the links below to be redirected.
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If you need some guidance to get your garden ready for winter book an appointment for a consultation here. All Covid-19 protocols are followed.
October Garden Chores
Plant spring flowering bulbs now such as this yellow crown imperial, Fritillaria imperialis,
Plant spring flowering bulbs. To protect tulips from critters, place them in trays, cover with chicken wire, and then bury them. Dust bulbs with cinnamon as it is a natural fungicide followed by bone meal to promote root growth. For more click here.
New Beds: Need more garden beds? Make them now so they will be ready for spring planting. There’s no need to rip up the grass if you try the lasagna (sheet mulching) method. It’s quick and easy. Click here for more. Perennials: Divide overgrown summer and fall flowering perennials. Winter Bedding Plants: Plant cold hardy bedding plants: winter pansies, primroses, ornamental kale and cyclamen. Annuals/Bedding Plants: It’s not necessary to dig up spent petunias and other bedding plants unless they are sickly. As they decompose they will add organic matter to the soil. Or just remove their tops so their remaining roots will contribute to the soil as they break down. Hardy Seeds: For annuals with hardy seeds such as nasturtiums, lobelia, alyssum, calendula and cleome, gather and save their seedheads or leave them in situ to sprout in spring. Biennials: Keep the seed heads on pansies, hollyhocks, sweet williams, wall flowers, foxgloves and other biennials. Either collect them to sow in early spring or directly sow them now, where you want them to grow. 
Bring in houseplants and other plants you want to overwinter such as geraniums.
Overwintering Tender Plants: If you want to save frost tender plants such as geraniums, bougainvilleas, allemandas, mandevillas, gingers, coleus, angel trumpets (Brugmansia spp., Datura spp.) and fuchsias, bring them inside asap! For more info, check out my blog post: Saving Geraniums and Other Tender Plants.
Cuttings: Take hardwood cuttings from shrubs and trees once they are dormant. Select mature stems with firm wood that doesn’t easily bend. To learn more about the different types of cuttings click here. 
Outdoor Furniture: Relocate patio furniture to a sheltered location or cover, but do bring cushions and pillows inside.
Where's my seed?
Birds: To help birds survive put out birdseed and suet feeders. Keep them stocked with seeds as they depend on your kindness. Don't forget to clean them throughout the season. Mold, mildew and bacteria easily kills our fine feathered friends, quicker than bad weather.
Hummingbirds: If you are going to feed hummingbirds, keep their feeders stocked with nectar (add 1 cup of boiling water to 1/4 cup of sugar, allow to cool). Take the time to wash and rinse feeders thoroughly before adding more nectar. Gift Plants: Start gift plants such as amaryllis, paperwhite narcissus and hyacinths as soon as they arrive in the stores to brighten those grey winter days. 
Drains & Eaves: It isn't October without leaves in the eaves & debris clogging storm drains and catch basins. Check them periodically especially after a storm, strong winds and heavy rains. Clean out the gutters, before it gets too nasty to do so.
Garden Hoses: Drain hoses before storing in a protected, preferably frost free location. Tools: Clean and sharpen garden tools then spray them with a vegetable oil such as Pam. Store tools in a dry location over winter. Greenhouses: Disinfect, clean and tidy. Lawn Mowers: Remove the mower blade so you can clean and sharpen it. While it’s removed, scrape any caked-on grass on the mower deck. Remove batteries on cordless mowers, siphon or drain the gas tank. Disconnect and clean the spark plug and change the oil. Clean or replace air and fuel filters depending on the type of filter and if they are no longer efficient. Store mowers in a dry frost free location. 
Move fertilizers, seeds and other products from your shed to a frost free and dry area over the winter.
Pruning
Remove suckers that arise from the roots and trunk at their origin, even if you have to dig down to get them.
Don't wait until November.
Pruning stimulates tender new growth, which is easily killed by frost. If plants are overgrown, wait until plant are dormant in winter. Avoid spring flowering plants. Don't prune them now, wait until after they finish flowering in spring. Do remove now. Dead, diseased, broken branches, suckers and watersprouts. Prune summer and fall flowering shrubs. Tame rambunctious ones and make spindly plants more compact ex: rose of Sharon, butterfly bushes and hydrangeas. Take off a quarter of growth from the Rose of Sharon after their leaves drop. Cut back butterfly bushes (Buddleia ) by half. Remove flowers from hydrangeas by cutting just above 2 fat buds at the top of the stem. Wet Plants. Don’t prune when it is raining or just afterwards when plants are still wet. This spreads diseases and makes it unsafe as tools and stems are difficult to hold onto. For more on pruning click here. Planters for Fall
To liven up existing planters, fill vacant spaces from spent annuals and replace with fall favorites.
To transform summer planters with little fuss, remove spent plants and replace with winter pansies, ornamental kale and gourds. Squeeze in some crocus or other spring flowering bulbs, add an attractive twig or two and voilà, c'est fini!
If you want to plant your own planter from scratch, start off with a sturdy container with drainage holes. Mix together 3 parts sterile potting soil, 1 part Sea soil or compost and 2 parts vermiculite and place in the container so it’s 2/3rd full. Add snowdrops, crocus and other spring flowering bulbs then add some evergreen perennials such as coral bells (Heuchera sp.), English daisies (Bellis perennis), primroses, pansies, variegated Japanese sedge (Carex oshimensis 'Evergold', bergenia, winter heather (Erica carnea), black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus). Stick in a few interesting stems such as Harry Lauder's walking stick, curly willow, redtwig dogwood and ones with colourful berries such as beautyberry . Keep in a protected area away from soaking rains. Water occasionally if placed under the eaves. 
For seasonal interest add a few gourds or other funky fall decor.
Protecting Planters
Place planters in a protective area against the house, under the eaves so they are sheltered from the elements. Check on them throughout the winter to ensure they don’t dry out.
Insulate roots by wrapping the containers with bubble wrap, Styrofoam, blankets, mats or whatever. If there is room, add at least 3 inches of an organic mulch on the soil surface. Another alternative is to bury the pots in the garden. The thermal heat from the earth is an excellent insulator. Just dig a hole wide enough and deep enough to accommodate the planter, and bury it a few inches deep. Add a label or stake to remind you where they are when spring rolls around. |
October Garden Stars
Karl Foerster feather reed grass Calamagrostis × acutiflora 'Karl Foerster', herbaceous perennial, 3’-5’ x 2’-2.5’, flowers May to Feb, sun. Zones 5 to 9.
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Ornamental kale, biennial, 1’x 15”, sun. Zones 2-9
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Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola') herbaceous perennial, 1’-1.5’, flowers July to Aug, part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
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Variegated winter daphne, Daphne odora 'Aureo-marginata', broadleaf evergreen, 3 - 4' x 2 - 4', part shade, fragrant. Zones 7 to 9.
Anemone tomentosa ‘Robustissima’, pink Japanese anemone, herbaceous perennial, 4ft, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
Autumn Joy sedum, herbaceous perennial, sun, 1 to 3 ft, Zones 3 to 9.
Autumn crocus, Colchicum autumnale, corm, 6 to 10”, leaves appear in spring then disappear, only flowers appear in fall, sun to shade. Zones 4 to 8.
Chrysanthemum, herbaceous perennial, 1-3’ x 2’, many colours & colour combinations, full sun. Zones 5 to 9.
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Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, broadleaf evergreen, 10’-20’ tall & wide, fragrant flowers Oct to Dec, fruit resembles strawberries. Zones 7 to 9.
Red Cascade spindle bush, Euonymus europaeus ‘Red Cascade’, deciduous shrub, 10’x 8’, sun, part shade, attracts birds. Zones 4 to 7.
Autumn clematis (Clematis ternifolia)
Chinese lantern, Physalis alkekengi var. franchetii, herbaceous perennial, 24”-34” x 24”-36”, underground runners are invasive, sun to part shade. Zones 3 to 9.
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Hardy fuchsia, Fuchsia magellanica, tender perennial, sun to part shade, 3' - 5'. Zones 8 to 10.
Viburnum davidii, David viburnum, broadleaf evergreen, 2-3’ x 3-4’, white blooms April to May, sun to part shade, blue/black berries, butterflies. Zones 7 to 9
Glossy abelia, Abelia x grandiflora, broad leaf evergreen shrub, 4 - 6’ x 5’, sun to part shade. Zones 6 to 9.
Samarai toad lily, Tricyrtis formosana 'Samarai', herbaceous perennial, zone 4-9, 2 to 4' tall x 3', shade to part shade.
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Winter protection
Spanish lavender is hardy from USDA zones 9 to 11 and often doesn't survive Canadian winters.
English lavender is reliably hardy throughout Canada from zones 5 to 9, .
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Fall Lawn Care
Rake leaves from the lawn onto beds. No bagging required.
Hate your lawn?
Oregon wood sorrell, Oxalis oregana, is an attractive alternative to turfgrass.
If you are not happy with your lawn, consider clover. Now is a good time to put in a lawn alternative such as mini clover or just plain clover. Ground covers are also a good idea especially in shady areas, or consider putting in a garden bed. To learn more about ground covers click here.
October Arrangement
Orange firethorn berries, pointed PeeGee hydrangea blossoms with colourful stems from stewartia.
To go to the Monthly Arrangement page click here
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Plant of the month
Japanese Maple
Acer Palmatum
A Japanese maple donning it's autumnal dress.
Japanese maples are responsible for the brilliant October colour at Queen Elizabeth Park in Vancouver, B.C.
'Hogyoku', 15' to 18' x 12' to 15', green foliage turns a brilliant yellow orange in autumn.
A very large 'Bloodgood' crimson Japanese maple, probably grown from a seed.
Dark branches contrast nicely with the colourful foliage and superb form of this Japanese maple tree.
Purple laceleaf Japanese maple, Acer palmatum dissectum atropurpureum, 6 to 8 ft tall and wide, slow growing, contorted branches create winter interest, leaves turn fiery orange in fall.
The 'bones' of a red cutleaf Japanese maple (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum Atropurpureum').
An elegant Japanese maple enhances the Harrison Hot Springs Hotel.
'Bloodgood' red foliage turns burgundy in summer and bright scarlet in fall, 15 to 20 ft. tall, 15 ft. wide.
'Nishiki-gawa' pinebark Japanese maple, 15'x15', green foliage turns red, yellow and orange in autumn.
VanDusen Botanical Gardens has many wonderful Japanese maple trees throughout.
This Crimson Queen cutleaf Japanese maple (A. palmatum dissectum 'Crimson Queen') is a grafted dwarf cultivar.
The lacy leaves of the 'Crimson Queen' cutleaf Japanese maple.
The yellow fall leaves of a delicate Japanese maple.
'Inaba Shidare' has a rounded top with cascading branches, 10 ft by 12 ft., burgundy foliage turns crimson in fall.
'Red Spider' samaras. Seeds are viable, so grow them on and see what develops!
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Common Name: Japanese maple
Botanical Name: Acer palmatum Form: upright, vase or rounded, weeping forms available Family: Sapindaceae Genus: Acer Species: palmatum Plant Type: deciduous tree Mature Size: 10-25 ft. (3.0 -7.6 m) depending on variety, cultivar Growth: fast Origin: China, Korea, Japan Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9 Foliage: simple, opposite, palmate up to 7 inches long, deep lobes, serrated margins varied shapes, colours due to diversity of species, brilliant fall colours Flowers: not showy, reddish and yellow umbels in April Fruit: seeds in pairs and bear wings, (samaras, keys) up to ¾ inches long, ripen in fall and are viable, therefore will germinate to create new plants Exposure: sun to partial shade, dappled shade, sheltered location, prefers part shade in afternoon Soil: moist, organically rich, slightly acid, well-drained, mulch beneficial Uses: specimen, accent, foundation plant, woodland, bonsai, container, understory tree, mixed borders, small gardens and patios, Asian Propagation: seeds, softwood cuttings in summer, Pruning: minimal pruning in winter Problems: hot, sunny sites damages foliage, fusarium, vertillium wilt, arid conditions promote spider mites, high pH induces chlorosis Comments: Japanese maples are known for their grace, form and colour, which they bestow on any garden that is lucky to have one. Their shape varies from upright with a round crown, vase shaped with multiple stems, to gracefully weeping and short, round shrubs. Plant breeders have a field day developing new and wonderful Japanese maples because it’s so easy to do. Their little winged seeds (samaras), are viable and - variable. The many seeds that are produced are variations of both parents. Plant breeders, professional and otherwise, look for those with something special and different to offer in the way of plant shape and size as well as foliage shape, size and colour. Those grown from seed are so diverse that some they often lose their small stature and grow into substantial trees - you just never know what you're going to get. To add to the many varieties developed from seeds, cultivars are also available. Cultivars are bred from growth that is delightfully different from all the other branches, such as an individual stem that has variegated foliage. Those unique stems are then grafted onto another Japanese maple, referred to as a rootstock. Dwarfing rootstocks, and ones that promote a weeping habit, add to the versatility and popularity of these handsome little trees. Japanese maples perform well in moist, rich soils with a generous layer of mulch. Avoid placing them in hot, sunny exposed locations to prevent the leaves from turning brown and crispy. They appreciate partial shade in the afternoon during the heat of summer. 
'Emperor One' grows to 15' x 15', burgundy foliage turns bright crimson in fall.
An attractive brightly coloured vase-shaped specimen in fall.
'Osakazuki', 15'- 25' x 10'- 18', green foliage turns crimson in fall.
A Japanese maple bonsai.
Seeds are in sets of two and are winged and are referred to as samaras. Pictured Tamukeyama samaras.
Golden leaves surround a cutleaf Japanese maple to expose intricate structure.
Inconspicuous flowers appear in spring as leaves emerge.
The elegant structure of a mature Japanese maple tree.
Many Japanese maples foliage turn a bright crimson in autumn.
'Linearilobum', aka 'bamboo maple' due to it's bamboo-like stems. Green leaves turn yellow in fall and grows to 20' x 20'.
'Shishigashira', 7'- 15', compact growth, slow growing, crinkled green foliage turns yellow and red in autumn.
'Villa Taranto', 6'-10', reddish purple leaves in spring turn green in summer and orange in autumn.
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Coral Bark maple ('Sango Kaku') throughout the seasons.
Coral bark maple immature stems are a pretty coral colour.
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Green summer foliage.
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Coral bark maple grows slowly to 25 ft by 20 ft.
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Pinkish yellow foliage in spring turns green in summer then bright yellow in autumn.
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The unique coral stems are outstanding in winter gardens.
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THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
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Container Growing 101Monthly Flower Arrangements
Growing Roses Introduction Mulching & Types Introduction |
for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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