Winter heath (Erica carnea) provide February flowers at VanDusen Botanical Garden, Vancouver, B.C.
Garden Chores for February
In This Issue
February garden chores include:
Sow Seeds Indoors - Sow Seeds Outdoors
Winter Pruning - Topping Trees - Plants Not to Prune Now - Shortening Branches - Pruning Apple & Pear Trees
Taming Wisterias & Grave Vines - Pruning Hydrangeas & Roses - Raspberries & Gooseberries
Lawn Care - Kill OverwinteriImproving Soil - Raised Bedsng Insects & Diseases
Killing Weeds - Veggie Gardening - Veggie Tips - Raised Beds
Dividing Perennials - Overwintering Geraniums & Tropicals - Lasagna Gardening
Frost Alert- Kale - Cover Crops -Dahlias - BegoniasCritters in the Garden - Birds & Hummingbirds
February Garden Stars - February's Floral Arrangement
February's Plant of the Month: Hart's Tongue Fern
Sow Seeds Indoors - Sow Seeds Outdoors
Winter Pruning - Topping Trees - Plants Not to Prune Now - Shortening Branches - Pruning Apple & Pear Trees
Taming Wisterias & Grave Vines - Pruning Hydrangeas & Roses - Raspberries & Gooseberries
Lawn Care - Kill OverwinteriImproving Soil - Raised Bedsng Insects & Diseases
Killing Weeds - Veggie Gardening - Veggie Tips - Raised Beds
Dividing Perennials - Overwintering Geraniums & Tropicals - Lasagna Gardening
Frost Alert- Kale - Cover Crops -Dahlias - BegoniasCritters in the Garden - Birds & Hummingbirds
February Garden Stars - February's Floral Arrangement
February's Plant of the Month: Hart's Tongue Fern
Fellow Gardeners..
Hello Fellow Gardeners,
February is a naughty month as it teases us with promise of spring only to be halted by the clutching claws of winter. Along the southern coast of British Columbia, the weather is unpredictable as it changes from winter to spring and back to winter again from day to day. Alas, we’ve had no snow this year, but it did snow last February and numerous other February’s before, much to the dismay of gardeners and plants alike. Gardens don’t suffer too much when conditions remain constant but that is not the case when temperatures fluctuate – a common February issue. Spring glides in and sings her warm flowery tunes. Plants acquiesce to her gentleness and open up to her soft song only to be crushed by winter’s cold and unforgiving swipe of his icy hand. Tender newly formed leaves turn brown and crispy, flower buds wither, die and fall off. Spring flowering bulbs work their way to unbury themselves and sit precariously on top of the ground. New and young plants become dislodged as they wiggle out of the comfort of their home. Mulch helps keep the soil temperature more constant however for those that do become dislodged, I firmly shove them back in and hope for the best. Cheers, Amanda February's ArrangementPink hellebores and winter heather combine with snowdrops and magnolia twigs. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements.
February's Plant of the month
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February Garden Stars
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February Garden Chores
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Visit your Garden: Plants and gardens have a tough time with February's unpredictable weather. Despite the weather, things are happening out there, and some plants may need your assistance. Look for slugs, weeds, broken branches, snow crushed plants, flooding, blocked drains, icy paths and slippery stairs.
Sowing Seeds Indoors
Growing plants from seed has many benefits. There’s oodles of different plant varieties that are not commercially available, they are less expensive than purchasing plants from the shops, and it’s also very empowering. It is a wonderful feeling to nurture a seed and watch it develop into a flourishing plant with leaves, stems, flowers and fruit. Think of it as ‘seed therapy’.
Growing seeds indoors can be disappointing if you don’t provide them with what they need. Additional lighting is necessary to prevent weak, pitiful specimens. Watering of course is crucial. Too little and seeds don’t germinate and seedlings wither. Alternately, seeds and seedlings rot and die with too much water. Click on Starting Seeds Indoors for techniques on how to grow robust seedlings and to prevent them from suddenly kicking the bucket. For a list of seed & plant catalogues click here.
Growing seeds indoors can be disappointing if you don’t provide them with what they need. Additional lighting is necessary to prevent weak, pitiful specimens. Watering of course is crucial. Too little and seeds don’t germinate and seedlings wither. Alternately, seeds and seedlings rot and die with too much water. Click on Starting Seeds Indoors for techniques on how to grow robust seedlings and to prevent them from suddenly kicking the bucket. For a list of seed & plant catalogues click here.
When to Sow Seeds Indoors
Timing matters. Seeds that are started too early indoors become leggy and mature indoors instead of in the garden. Know your frost dates and read the back of seed packages of when to sow.
In cold climates Zones 3-4, sow seeds indoors mid-March to early April. In cool to moderate climates, Zones 5-6, begin late February to early April. In Zone 7-8, January to early March and in Zone 9-10 sow seeds in December – January.
In cold climates Zones 3-4, sow seeds indoors mid-March to early April. In cool to moderate climates, Zones 5-6, begin late February to early April. In Zone 7-8, January to early March and in Zone 9-10 sow seeds in December – January.
Sow Seeds Outdoors
Wait for optimal conditions before sowing seeds in the ground. Seeds rot in cold, soggy soil. Squeeze a handful and if it drips water it’s too early. Sow hardy seeds such as kale, chard, spinach and lettuce when the soil warms to 10 °C (50°F) and weeds start to actively grow. Read the instructions on seed packets before planting. To protect seedlings from the cold and insects, cover with a floating row cover or cloche. For more on direct sowing click on Sowing Seeds Outdoors.
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Winter Pruning
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Remove suckers.
Pruning in winter doesn't restrict growth, it does the opposite - it stimulates new vigorous spring growth. Take the time to correct structural issues, reshape, improve yields on fruit trees, to promote flowering (on some plants) for healthier and stronger plants. Before doing any surgery, assess the plant to see what needs to be done. Select a dry day, preferably when it’s above freezing and use appropriate clean, sharp pruning tools.
All Plants: Cut off all dead, diseased, dying growth. Remove all suckers, watersprouts, weak stems and branches that grow perfectly upright. Cut off all branches that grow towards the inside of the plant and ones that hang down. Remove all stubs, nubs and partial stems at their base. Click her for Pruning 101.
All Plants: Cut off all dead, diseased, dying growth. Remove all suckers, watersprouts, weak stems and branches that grow perfectly upright. Cut off all branches that grow towards the inside of the plant and ones that hang down. Remove all stubs, nubs and partial stems at their base. Click her for Pruning 101.
Topping Trees
Don’t do it! Trees that have had all their branches cut back or removed are dangerous. If they survive after being butchered, any subsequent growth are suckers. Suckers originate from just under the bark unlike branches that grow form the core of the tree. Tall trees will not fall down as their roots spread out much further than the tree's canopy. For more on pruning click on Winter Pruning.
Hire Certified Arborists: Hire a professional to prune your trees when the job is too big, the tree is too big, if you need a ladder (always keep both feet on the ground), and if you are out of your depth. Professionals are certified by the International Society of Arborists (ISA). Check their previous pruning jobs and if they are in good standing with WorkSafe. Don’t hire them if they agree to top trees as that is a definite no-no and so called ‘pruners’ that go door-to-door.
Pruning Instruction for Metro Vancouver: To make an appointment click here. Serving Metro Vancouver.
Hire Certified Arborists: Hire a professional to prune your trees when the job is too big, the tree is too big, if you need a ladder (always keep both feet on the ground), and if you are out of your depth. Professionals are certified by the International Society of Arborists (ISA). Check their previous pruning jobs and if they are in good standing with WorkSafe. Don’t hire them if they agree to top trees as that is a definite no-no and so called ‘pruners’ that go door-to-door.
Pruning Instruction for Metro Vancouver: To make an appointment click here. Serving Metro Vancouver.
Plant's Not to Prune Now
Azaleas, rhododendrons, lilacs and other spring bloomers should not be pruned now as you will be removing all their flowers. It’s fine to remove all dead, crossing and other errant growth as mentioned above, but don’t cut back the healthy branches. Cut them back just after they finish blooming. Wait to prune cherries, plums, peaches, apricots until early spring, just before bud break to prevent silver leaf disease.
Shorten Tree & Shrub Branches
Trees: Shorten tree branches by cutting them back to a side branch. Cutting in the middle of the branch leaves stubs that sprout suckers, or rot and are unsightly. Shrubs: Shorten stems on shrubs by cutting just above a bud (node) that faces away from the centre of the plant. This directs the new growth away from the plant’s centre.
Shrubs: Don’t just cut their tops off, they need to be thinned. Start from the bottom of the plant, so take seat on the ground. Remove all the crossing, spindly, broken, old, dead and diseased branches as well as those that grow towards the centre of the plant. Once that’s done, cut back all stems back by ½ to a bud that faces away from the plant. Don’t prune spring flowering shrubs now as they won’t flowers: forsythia, lilacs, camellia, rhododendron, azalea, mock orange, daphne, lily-of-the-valley shrub (Pieris japonica), Chinese witch hazel (Hamamelis mollis).
Pruning Apple & Pear Trees
Apples & Pear Trees: The objective is to remove some of the old wood to stimulate new growth - as they are more fruitful. Remove all suckers, watersprouts, dead, diseased, spindly, crossing branches, ones growing towards the tree’s centre and any that grow vertically upright. Shorten overly long stems by cutting them back to a side branch or to an outward facing bud.
Taming Wisterias & Grape Vines
Wisteria: Control the boa constrictors of the plant world by cutting them back hard. Keep a few of the major branches then cut off all the side branches to 2 to 4 buds. Those buds should revert to flowers (spurs) in a couple of years.
Grapes: A hard pruning is necessary to increase yields and to control their rampant growth. Remove up to 80% of their stems so only two to four main branches remain. Cut back all side shoots to 2 to 4 buds. Thin the remaining buds to a foot apart for bigger grapes. For more click on Pruning Grapes.
Grapes: A hard pruning is necessary to increase yields and to control their rampant growth. Remove up to 80% of their stems so only two to four main branches remain. Cut back all side shoots to 2 to 4 buds. Thin the remaining buds to a foot apart for bigger grapes. For more click on Pruning Grapes.
Pruning Hydrangeas & Roses
Mopheads won't flower if cut back too far.
Hydrangeas: Mophead hydrangeas (H. macrophylla), have already formed this year’s flowers on last year’s wood. It’s fine to remove the dead flowers. Cut just above the first set of buds on the stem, no further or you might remove this year’s flowers. It’s safe to prune out all weak, spindly and old stems. Panicle (H. paniculata) and smooth-leaf hydrangeas (H. arborescens) form flowers on new wood so it is safe to cut them back by a 1/3rd to a 1/2.
Roses: Wait until the forsythias bloom, which is usually in March in coastal British Columbia.
Roses: Wait until the forsythias bloom, which is usually in March in coastal British Columbia.
Raspberries: Cut off all stems that produced fruit last year to the ground. Attach the remaining canes horizontally to a wire trellis or a fence.
Gooseberries: Remove all dead, weak and spindly stems then cut back all side shoots back to three buds (nodes).
Gooseberries: Remove all dead, weak and spindly stems then cut back all side shoots back to three buds (nodes).
February Lawns
Lawns: It’s a tad too early to fertilize, seed, sod and repair existing lawns. Wait for March or April when soil temperature reaches 10°C (50°F) and the ground isn’t soggy underfoot. Avoid applying high nitrogen fertilizers too early as it promotes lush growth at the expense of root development. For sickly, sad lawns, get a soil test done to find out what the problem is. In the meantime, service the lawn mower; sharpen and clean mower blades. For more info click on Spring Lawn Care - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Lawn Grub Control - Lawn Reno, Seed & Sod - Moss in Lawns - Lawn Alternatives
Apply on dormant oil/lime sulfur on dormant plants when temps are above freezing. Use a combination spray to protect fruit trees, ornamental cherries, roses and other deciduous trees and shrubs from caterpillars, scab and other overwintering insects and diseases. Dormant oil kits are available at garden centers and home hardware stores. To learn more about applying dormant oil and lime sulfur, click here.
Killin' Weeds
Kill Weed Seeds: Apply corn gluten to lawns and gardens this month and/or during March. This organic product kills germinating weed seeds and adds just a wee bit of nitrogen. Don’t apply to areas where you have sown grass or other desirable seeds as will kill them too. Apply again in autumn to kill seeds that sprout in fall such as chickweed and shepherd’s purse.
Weeds: They are just getting started so get them while they are still wiping the sleep out of their eyes. This is crucial to control horsetails, bindweed (wild morning glory), chickweed, purslane, wild violets and anything else that is driving you mad. Cull them as soon as they pop out of the ground and keep at it until they have used all their resources and give up. Try not to give up before they do - argh!
Weeds: They are just getting started so get them while they are still wiping the sleep out of their eyes. This is crucial to control horsetails, bindweed (wild morning glory), chickweed, purslane, wild violets and anything else that is driving you mad. Cull them as soon as they pop out of the ground and keep at it until they have used all their resources and give up. Try not to give up before they do - argh!
Veggie Gardening
Prepping Veggie Beds: Before you put plants and seeds into the ground, remove all weeds and debris. Mix in at least a couple of inches of compost, rotted leaves, SeaSoil or other organic matter into the top few inches of soil to replenish the nutrients used by last year’s harvest. Constrain yourself from working with wet soil as it compacts the ground and spreads diseases.
Planning the Veggie Beds: Refrain from growing the same crop in the same spot as last year or the year before to reduce nutrient deficiencies, insects and diseases. To make the most of available space, to deter pests, for healthy, nutritious crops and to increase yields grow multiple crops in the same bed. Companion planting is an effective and efficient method of growing food. For more information select Spring Veggie Gardening and Growing Food and Crop Rotation, Succession & Companion.
Raised beds have many benefits.
Raised Beds: Growing vegetables in raised beds is easier on the back, easier to maintain and to organize compared to conventional veggie beds. The soil warms up faster and it’s simpler to plant, tend, weed, and harvest. Either make your own raised beds or purchase kits.
New Beds & Bigger Beds: There is an easy solution to make more gardens and enlarge existing ones without digging up the lawn. Sheet mulching also quaintly called ‘lasagna gardening’ is a simple, no dig option. To learn how click on Sheet Mulching.
Cover Crops: Wait until March/April to cut them back and dig them into the ground. Here’s more on Cover Crops.
New Beds & Bigger Beds: There is an easy solution to make more gardens and enlarge existing ones without digging up the lawn. Sheet mulching also quaintly called ‘lasagna gardening’ is a simple, no dig option. To learn how click on Sheet Mulching.
Cover Crops: Wait until March/April to cut them back and dig them into the ground. Here’s more on Cover Crops.
Veggie Tips
Don't lime the soil where potatoes are to grow.
Potatoes: Pre-sprout potatoes by starting them indoors. Use egg egg cartons or muffin tins to hold them upright and place in a bright, cool and frost free area. This is referred to as ‘Chitting’. Plant outside in March up to the end of May when the soil temperature is at least 7.2°C (45°F). The warmer the soil the faster they will grow.
Kale: Harvest their new spring tender foliage and flowers. Keep a few flowers on the plant to benefit the bees and as an added benefit you get free kale seeds.
Add Lime? Add lime to soil where broccoli and other brassicas are to grow, but not to the potato bed as it promotes potato scab.
Kale: Harvest their new spring tender foliage and flowers. Keep a few flowers on the plant to benefit the bees and as an added benefit you get free kale seeds.
Add Lime? Add lime to soil where broccoli and other brassicas are to grow, but not to the potato bed as it promotes potato scab.
Divide Summer & Autumn Flowering Perennials
Ideally, it best to divide overcrowded and overgrown perennials before they sprout new spring growth. Select perennials that flower in the summer and autumn: Astilbe, Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), coral bells (Heuchera), tickseed (Coreopsis), pinks & carnations (Dianthus) bee balm (Monarda), coneflower (Echinacea), and ornamental grasses. Divide spring flowering perennials in autumn: peonies, bleeding hearts, aubretia, primroses, hellebores, bergenia.
Overwintered Geraniums, Fuchsias, Coleus & Other Tropicals
Six weeks after repotting.
They should be responding to the longer days and shorter nights by sprouting new foliage. Once that happens, remove flowers, flower buds, anything that’s dead, dying, yellow, brown, weak and any debris from the soil. Cut back all stems by a half (save some to make cuttings) then repot using fresh potting soil with slow release plant food mixed in. Water well and place in a bright location out of direct light for a few days until they perk up. Place it under grow lights or in front of a sunny window. For more click on Overwintering Tropicals.
Houseplants: Revive houseplants by cutting off all dead parts. Repot plants that have run out of room and need a bigger pot. To keep a plant in the same plant pot, use a knife to slice off an inch or so from the sides and the bottom of the rootball. Use fresh potting soil with a slow release fertilizer. Water and place away from light for a few days then place under grow light or in front of a sunny window.
Houseplants: Revive houseplants by cutting off all dead parts. Repot plants that have run out of room and need a bigger pot. To keep a plant in the same plant pot, use a knife to slice off an inch or so from the sides and the bottom of the rootball. Use fresh potting soil with a slow release fertilizer. Water and place away from light for a few days then place under grow light or in front of a sunny window.
Summer Bulbs
Dahlias: Pot them up now for early blooms even if they haven’t produced buds yet. Click on Dahlias for more. Tuberous Begonias: Pot them up once sprouts appear. For more details click on Tuberous Begonias. Also pot up callas, gladiolus, cannas and other stored tropical bulbs.
Frost Alert
It’s only February; winter isn’t over yet. Even in temperate climates like the south coast of British Columbia, zone 8, it’s not that unusual for a killing frost of -2°C (28°F) to occur. Keep an eye out for those dippy nighttime temperatures especially on clear and starry nights.
Hardy trees, shrubs and vines will survive freezing temperatures as long as they haven’t broken dormancy. Aborted blossoms and crispy brown foliage are the result of below freezing temperature damage. This is why crab apples, ornamental Japanese cherries, rhodos, camellias, lilacs, and other early spring bloomers fail to flower some years. Cover early bloomers, if possible, when freezing temperatures are predicted with frost blankets, old sheets or whatever. Avoid plastic as it has no insulating value and promotes rotting. To keep roots warmer, place at least 3 inches of organic mulch on top of the soil and around plants.
Flooding: Keep all drains, including nearby storm drains, free of leaves and other debris to prevent flooding,
Hardy trees, shrubs and vines will survive freezing temperatures as long as they haven’t broken dormancy. Aborted blossoms and crispy brown foliage are the result of below freezing temperature damage. This is why crab apples, ornamental Japanese cherries, rhodos, camellias, lilacs, and other early spring bloomers fail to flower some years. Cover early bloomers, if possible, when freezing temperatures are predicted with frost blankets, old sheets or whatever. Avoid plastic as it has no insulating value and promotes rotting. To keep roots warmer, place at least 3 inches of organic mulch on top of the soil and around plants.
Flooding: Keep all drains, including nearby storm drains, free of leaves and other debris to prevent flooding,
Critters in the Garden
Raccoons, bunnies, squirrels and other critters are hungry, and the tender new growth of spring bulbs, perennials, shrubs and trees are on the menu. There are ways to deter the little varmits from dining and dashing. To learn more, click on Critters in the Garden.
Birds TLC
Birds: Invite birds into your garden with a steady supply of seed and suet. They rely on the kindness of homeowners to make it through the winter as food is scarce. Inspect feeders often and discard mouldy seeds Discard and disinfect feeders before filling them with fresh seeds. Birds also need water when everything is frozen. To prevent the water from freezing, add a tennis ball. Place a few tennis balls in the garden after it snows so birds have a place to rest.
Hummingbirds: Anna’s hummingbirds don’t migrate to warmer climes; they stick around for winter in the Pacific Northwest. There’s few if any flowers this time of year, but these little guys need nectar to survive. Hang nectar filled feeders to provide them with a steady supply. For a few tips and tricks to keep the nectar from freezing, click here.
Hummingbirds: Anna’s hummingbirds don’t migrate to warmer climes; they stick around for winter in the Pacific Northwest. There’s few if any flowers this time of year, but these little guys need nectar to survive. Hang nectar filled feeders to provide them with a steady supply. For a few tips and tricks to keep the nectar from freezing, click here.
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THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
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for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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