A field of May daisies.
Garden Chores for May
In This Issue
Time to Plant - Turning Brown Thumbs Green - Unpotting the Potted - Why Plants Wilt
Prepare for Heat & Drought - Ground Covers - Make Watering Easier
All About Lawns - Lawn Grubs - Mossy Lawns - Lawn Repair & New Lawns - Ditch the Lawn
Growing Food - Why Veggies Need Full Sun - Raised Veggie Beds
Potatoes, Strawberries, Rhubarb, Asparagus & Artichokes - Tomato Tips
Sowing Seeds Outside - What to Prune in May- The Chelsea Chop - Good & Bad Bugs
Bedding Plants & Annuals - Roses in May - Stake & Cage - Houseplants & Tropicals - Planters
Fellow Gardeners Introduction - Garden Club Plant Sales - Irrigation Restrictions
May's Floral Arrangement - May Garden Chores - May Garden Stars
Plant of the Month: Solomon Seal - May's Flower Arrangement
Prepare for Heat & Drought - Ground Covers - Make Watering Easier
All About Lawns - Lawn Grubs - Mossy Lawns - Lawn Repair & New Lawns - Ditch the Lawn
Growing Food - Why Veggies Need Full Sun - Raised Veggie Beds
Potatoes, Strawberries, Rhubarb, Asparagus & Artichokes - Tomato Tips
Sowing Seeds Outside - What to Prune in May- The Chelsea Chop - Good & Bad Bugs
Bedding Plants & Annuals - Roses in May - Stake & Cage - Houseplants & Tropicals - Planters
Fellow Gardeners Introduction - Garden Club Plant Sales - Irrigation Restrictions
May's Floral Arrangement - May Garden Chores - May Garden Stars
Plant of the Month: Solomon Seal - May's Flower Arrangement
Fellow Gardeners..Hello Fellow Gardeners,
It’s been quite dangerous to drive through the lower mainland of British Columbia this spring. It’s not because of the road conditions, (some may argue that point though), it’s because this spring has been spectacular! All those masses of colourful blossoms are a total distraction. I just can’t help myself from ogling. This spring started off with a floral bang, so to speak, when tulips, daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs put on quite the show. It was a harbinger of what was to come. Magnolias were outstanding this year with their blousy blossoms and satin petals in various shades of pink and white. My Yellow Butterflies mag looked like it would fly away as its branches were covered with large butterfly flowers. I’ve never seen it look so good. Now it’s May and there are even more blossoms to take my breath away. My 3 lilac trees are already strutting their stuff with a record number of bigger than normal scented blossoms. It’s a nice surprise since they didn’t bear many last year due to a prolonged freezing spell in January. Luckily, we escaped that fate this year – and the plants have responded favourably. I don’t know how I am going to cope with all this excessive beauty. It’s really difficult to pass lovely flowers without admiring them and taking their picture. It doesn’t matter if I am in a car or walking, I want to capture their loveliness. I’m so glad I don’t use a film camera anymore. I would be selling matches on street corners to pay to develop the film. In the meantime, there is a ton of garden chores this month, as well as taking even more pictures! Have fun out there and enjoy your May garden. Cheers, Amanda Garden Club Plant SalesGet the word out! Click here to list your garden club plant sales, fundraisers, garden tour & other events.
Get the word out! Click here to list & to view garden club plant sales, fundraisers, garden tour & other events. Click on the coloured links below to be redirected to the individual garden club.
New Westminster Horticulture Society Plant Sale Saturday, May 3rd, 10 am to 2 pm. St Thomas More Collegiate, 7450 12th Ave., Burnaby, BC Variety of perennials and vegetable seedlings. Cash only The White Rock Garden Club Plant Sale Saturday May 3, 2025, 9 am - 1 pm, Ocean Park Community Hall 1577 128 St, Surrey, BC Plant Sale, Baked Goods, Flower Market, Door Prizes, Raffle Pitt Meadows Garden Club Annual Plant Sale Saturday May 10, 2025, 10am-2pm, Pitt Meadows Community Church Hall 12109 Harris Road, Pitt Meadows, BC Features veggies & herbs, annuals & perennials, baking, silent auction and much more. Amanda's Plant Sale Saturday, May 17 Corner of Iverson & Main, N. Delta, BC Mostly tomatoes & veggie plants. |
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Need a Garden Consultation?Prepare for the upcoming gardening year with a consultation with Amanda. Click here for more information.
Water Restrictions BeginMetro Vancouver Water Restrictions: Water trees, shrubs & gardens any day, from 5 am - 9 am. Hand water and use drip irrigation and soaker hoses any time. Thankfully, vegetable gardens are exempt from the regulations. Water lawns once a week on Saturdays on even numbered addresses, and Sundays for odd numbered. For more details on current water restrictions click on Metro Vancouver.
May Arrangement![]() This month's flowers feature Bowl of Beauty peonies and Siberian iris. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements
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May Garden Stars
May Garden Chores
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It’s Time to Plant!
For most of Canada, the Victoria Day long weekend on May 17, is planting time. This includes frost tender babies such as tomatoes and petunias. In more temperate areas, such as southern coastal BC., plant in the beginning of May. Nighttime temperatures must be above 7 °C (45 °F) with the soil temperature of 13°C (55 °F).
In the meantime, summer is right around the corner so get trees, shrubs, vines, perennials veggies, herbs and bedding plants in the ground before it gets too hot and dry.
Plants grown indoors: Prepare seedlings that were started indoors by taking them outdoors daily and gradually increasing the time, and exposure to the sun and wind. To learn how click on Hardening Off Plants
For most of Canada, the Victoria Day long weekend on May 17, is planting time. This includes frost tender babies such as tomatoes and petunias. In more temperate areas, such as southern coastal BC., plant in the beginning of May. Nighttime temperatures must be above 7 °C (45 °F) with the soil temperature of 13°C (55 °F).
In the meantime, summer is right around the corner so get trees, shrubs, vines, perennials veggies, herbs and bedding plants in the ground before it gets too hot and dry.
Plants grown indoors: Prepare seedlings that were started indoors by taking them outdoors daily and gradually increasing the time, and exposure to the sun and wind. To learn how click on Hardening Off Plants
Turn Brown Thumbs Green: If you have bad luck with plants, it could be because they weren't planted properly. It’s one of the main reasons why trees fail to flourish and ultimately die an early death. Planting too deeply, not firming the soil and incorrect watering are common mistakes. Click on Planting Know-How for details.
Post Planting: Once a plant is in the ground, hand water it and the surrounding soil. Don’t rely on rain, drip systems or soaker hoses. Water every other day and once new growth starts, reduce watering to once or twice a week depending on the weather and your soil. Check on them daily and don’t go on vacation.
Post Planting: Once a plant is in the ground, hand water it and the surrounding soil. Don’t rely on rain, drip systems or soaker hoses. Water every other day and once new growth starts, reduce watering to once or twice a week depending on the weather and your soil. Check on them daily and don’t go on vacation.
Unpotting the Potted: To remove a plant from its container, place your hand over the top of the pot with your fingers straddling the plant. Turn it upside down and remove the pot with the other hand. If it doesn’t budge, keep the plant upside down and tap the pot rim on the edge of a hard surface. For large pots, lay the plant on its side and press down on the sides of the pot. Carefully slide the plant out gently loosen the roots but keep the rootball intact. If roots are too tightly bound, use a knife to cut the sides and bottom of the root ball. Plant and water immediately.
Why Plants Wilt? Note that plants wilt when they are too dry and when they are too wet. Use a trowel or shovel to dig down to figure out what’s going on. Plants also droop if they are too hot, especially newly planted ones. Protect them from the sun by putting up temporary shade. An umbrella work well and or use a trellis with cloth attached or cardboard.
Prepare for Heat & Drought
To make your garden more resilient to the heat of summer and the lack of rain, the most effective thing to do is to cover any bare soil with mulch. A 3-inch layer of wood chips placed around plants keeps the soil moist and cooler, so it doesn’t bake in the sun. Mulch also suppresses weeds, and as it slowly decomposes, it reduces the need to fertilize. Click here for more information on how to apply mulch, its benefits and the different kinds.
How to plant in mulch: When planting where there is an existing layer of mulch, just move it away and replace after planting. Keep mulch a few inches from tree trunks and avoid smothering plants.
How to plant in mulch: When planting where there is an existing layer of mulch, just move it away and replace after planting. Keep mulch a few inches from tree trunks and avoid smothering plants.
Ground Covers: Instead of covering the soil with mulch, use low growing plants to cover the ground. Use dense, low growing evergreen plants to cover the ground to take the place of mulch. Be selective as some can be quite aggressive. For more on Living Mulches - Ground Covers.
Making Watering Easier
With the current water restrictions, getting up at 5 am to turn on sprinklers is not necessary if you install an irrigation timer on an outdoor faucet. Just attach a garden hose with the sprinkler on the end and you’re set. Timers are available at Canadian Tire and where garden products are sold. For more watering tips and water saving techniques go to Drought Gardening and Watering Tips & Techniques.
It's All About Lawns
Lawn Care for May: Apply a slow release or organic, high nitrogen fertilizer – the first number is highest – 8-5-3. Follow the instructions and don’t over apply. Avoid applying it to wet grass to prevent burning.
Lawn Grubs: To prevent the adults of lawn grubs from laying eggs in the lawn, don’t cut it too short. Keep the grass long, at 2.5 to 3 inches and water during the summer.
Mow High: Set the mower to 2.5 to 3 inches. The longer grass blades deter lawn grubs and promotes longer roots, which results in healthier grass. For more on lawn care click on Lawn Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Moss in Lawns
Lawn Grubs: To prevent the adults of lawn grubs from laying eggs in the lawn, don’t cut it too short. Keep the grass long, at 2.5 to 3 inches and water during the summer.
Mow High: Set the mower to 2.5 to 3 inches. The longer grass blades deter lawn grubs and promotes longer roots, which results in healthier grass. For more on lawn care click on Lawn Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Moss in Lawns
Mossy Lawn? Moss is a good indicator that the pH is too low as moss prefers a pH of 5.0 to 5.5. Lawns on the other hand, prefer a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Apply Dolopril lime to raise the pH then follow up with a moss killer, either a liquid or granular form of ferrous sulphate. Apply according to the directions.
Lawn Repair: May is the last good month to repair lawns before it gets too hot and dry. To fix bare spots, scratch in some compost, topsoil or even potting soil onto the area. Sow grass seed that includes a starter fertilizer or apply it separately before sowing the seeds. Starter fertilizers have a high middle number (phosphorous) to stimulate root growth. Gently water numerous times a day to keep the seeds moist until they germinate. A quicker option is to cut out the dead patch, add a starter fertilizer, and replace it with a piece of sod and water generously.
New Lawns: Don’t delay as the grass needs to be established before summer. Sod is easy and instant, however it is more expensive. After repairing and installing a new lawn don’t go on vacation! It needs to be watered frequently and cared for. Avoid sod that is grown on a net or mesh. Even if it is biodegradable as it harms the environment and it lethally traps wildlife and pets. It also plays havoc with lawn mowers, aerators, line trimmers and when planting anything in the lawn.
Note that new lawns are exempt from water restrictions, but you must have a permit.
Here's more on lawns: Lawn Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule
New Lawns: Don’t delay as the grass needs to be established before summer. Sod is easy and instant, however it is more expensive. After repairing and installing a new lawn don’t go on vacation! It needs to be watered frequently and cared for. Avoid sod that is grown on a net or mesh. Even if it is biodegradable as it harms the environment and it lethally traps wildlife and pets. It also plays havoc with lawn mowers, aerators, line trimmers and when planting anything in the lawn.
Note that new lawns are exempt from water restrictions, but you must have a permit.
Here's more on lawns: Lawn Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule
Ditch the Lawn!
If growing a healthy lawn is not your thing for one reason or another, there are alternatives.
Use sheet mulching/lasagna gardening to convert the lawn into a garden without having to rip out the lawn. Plant ground covers, or wildflowers to create a meadow. Make a functional garden with raised beds for veggies, install a patio, a seating area. For more ideas click on Lawn Alternatives.
Use sheet mulching/lasagna gardening to convert the lawn into a garden without having to rip out the lawn. Plant ground covers, or wildflowers to create a meadow. Make a functional garden with raised beds for veggies, install a patio, a seating area. For more ideas click on Lawn Alternatives.
Grow your own food!
It’s time to get those veggies in the ground. Here's a few tips to help you out.
It’s time to get those veggies in the ground. Here's a few tips to help you out.
- Locate your vegetable patch near an outdoor faucet and the kitchen for convenience.
- Prepare the soil by removing all weeds and debris. Mix in at least 2” of compost or SeaSoil. Water thoroughly then wait up to a week for the soil to settle before planting.
- Water the ground and the plants before planting, especially if it's dry.
- Place tall crops and plants grown on trellises on the north side of the beds.
- Save space and grow cucumbers, pole beans, peas and other vining veggies on trellises. Fruit ripens faster and are less likely to be eaten by slugs and succumb to diseases. To support heavy fruit, wrap fruit in pantyhose and secure to the trellis. To learn how to make an inexpensive trellis click here.
- Plant different crops together to deter pests and diseases with companion planting.
- Avoid planting the same crop in the same place as last year with crop rotation.
- Grow a succession of veggies to increase yields and prolong harvests with crop succession. For more on companion planting, crop rotation and succession planting click here.
- Cutworms: When planting seedling & starter plants, place toothpicks around their stems, wrap them with strips of newspaper or sprinkle with diatomaceous earth to protect them from being eaten by caterpillars.
Veggies Need Full Sun
Veggie gardens that receive less than 6 hours of direct sun per day results in cabbages and cauliflowers that don’t form heads, whilst radishes and beets don’t form bulbs. Tomatoes and peppers have few if any fruit with delayed ripening, however foliage is plentiful, and they’re more prone to diseases. Veggies that tolerate less sunlight are chard, spinach, kale, arugula and lettuce.
Add Lime: Mix in Dolopril lime to the soil where cabbage, broccoli and other brassicas will be planted, but don’t lime potato beds.
Add Lime: Mix in Dolopril lime to the soil where cabbage, broccoli and other brassicas will be planted, but don’t lime potato beds.
Raised Beds For Veggies!
Opt for Raised beds: Four foot wide raised beds are more efficient to maintain, easier on the back, the soil warms faster in the spring and they are simpler to organize. Avoid metal raised beds as they get too hot in the sun and too cold when the temperature dips. Use cedar, bricks or cement blocks. To make raised beds out of wood, use corner brackets to attach the panels together. There are many kits available in hardware stores, garden centres and online. Planters only need to be about two feet deep. There's no need for them to be any deeper.
Potatoes: Plant seed potatoes in trenches and cover them with more soil as they grow to increase yields and prevents green spuds.
Strawberries: Cut off runners before flowers form so plants dedicate their energy to produce strawberries. Mulch with straw or wood chips. Remove the flowers of newly planted strawberries so they will establish themselves faster.
Rhubarb: Wait for three years to harvest stems after planting. Remove flowers as soon as they appear. To harvest the stalks, pull them off rather than cutting them off. Don’t compost the leaves as they are toxic.
Asparagus: Wait for three years after planting to harvest young spears. Mix in compost annually at the base of each plant every spring.
Artichokes: To keep the artichoke hearts free of aphids, cover each bud with pantyhose.
Strawberries: Cut off runners before flowers form so plants dedicate their energy to produce strawberries. Mulch with straw or wood chips. Remove the flowers of newly planted strawberries so they will establish themselves faster.
Rhubarb: Wait for three years to harvest stems after planting. Remove flowers as soon as they appear. To harvest the stalks, pull them off rather than cutting them off. Don’t compost the leaves as they are toxic.
Asparagus: Wait for three years after planting to harvest young spears. Mix in compost annually at the base of each plant every spring.
Artichokes: To keep the artichoke hearts free of aphids, cover each bud with pantyhose.
Sow Seeds Outside
There are many seeds that are suitable to sow outside this month: peas, corn, squashes, cucumbers, pumpkins, gourds, melons, beets, carrots, radishes, beans, nasturtiums, sunflowers, sweet peas, nigella, calendula and poppies. Keep soil moist for optimum seed germination. To protect plants from slugs and snails, click here for more info.
For a regional planting charts click on West Coast Seeds. For more on sowing seeds select Growing Seeds Indoors and Growing Seeds Outdoors
For a regional planting charts click on West Coast Seeds. For more on sowing seeds select Growing Seeds Indoors and Growing Seeds Outdoors
Tomato Tips & Techniques
Plant tomatoes in a different garden bed than the last 3 years to reduce diseases, insects and nutrient deficiencies. Allow 20 to 24 inches between plants. Before planting, remove their lower leaves, then bury the leafless stems. Stake or cage plants to support stems, fruit and to keep them off the ground. For more information on tomatoes click on: Tomato Tips - The Life of Tomato Seedlings to Plants - Taming Tomatoes - Speeding up Tomato Harvest - Tomato Troubles - Saving Tomato Seeds
What to Prune in May
Not all plants need to be cut back. It’s a popular misconception that pruning initiates flowering. If that was true, how did plants manage to flower before people and pruning gear existed? The lack of blossoms is usually caused by pruning at the wrong time. To be on the safe side, wait until petal fall to cut back plants, and only do so if needed. Take a step back occasionally to make sure you don’t take off more than ¼ of overall growth. Don’t prune wet plants as it spreads diseases and it’s unsafe as tools as well as plants become slippery. After pruning help plants bounce back by watering and fertilizing them with kelp, fish fertilizer or another organic high nitrogen plant food. How to Prune - Pruning Tools - Prune Your Garden Registration
The Chelsea Chop
Tall perennials that fall over due to weak stems and heavy blossoms benefit from the Chelsea Chop. It makes plants more compact and bushier, so they don’t collapse. Perform either one of these 2 simple techniques in mid to late May, no later. Method 1: Cut back all stems by ½ to 1/3rd directly above a leaf. This creates more stems, therefore more flowers on shorter plants. To extend flowering use Method 2. Cut back only half of the stems; the other half remains uncut. Pinch or cut back asters, veronicas, autumn joy sedums, campanulas, yarrow, phlox, bellflower, coneflowers, penstemon, sneezeweed & goldenrod.
Good & Bad Bugs
We Need Bugs! Killing plant eating bugs also kills the insects that kills the bad bugs. If a plant is losing a battle and intervention is needed, hand pick them off if possible, and if you’re not squeamish. Hunt for slugs and other nocturnal plant eaters at night with a flashlight and a cup of salty water to drop them in as you go. Use cloches and floating row covers to protect broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and leafy crops from cabbage butterfly, leaf miner, carrot rust fly and other insect pests.
Bug Traps: Place pheromone traps in apple trees to decrease codling moth populations.
Caterpillars, cutworms: Use the product Bacillus thuringiensis. It's a bacteria that only kills caterpillars. Don’t use near butterfly gardens.
Wireworms: To capture these orange shiny worms that eat plant roots, pierce pieces of raw potato with a toothpick and bury them an inch deep so the toothpick stands upright. Check daily and discard wireworms (and any slugs) in soapy water.
For more click on Plant Pests 1 - Plant Pests Part 2, Controlling Insects
Bug Traps: Place pheromone traps in apple trees to decrease codling moth populations.
Caterpillars, cutworms: Use the product Bacillus thuringiensis. It's a bacteria that only kills caterpillars. Don’t use near butterfly gardens.
Wireworms: To capture these orange shiny worms that eat plant roots, pierce pieces of raw potato with a toothpick and bury them an inch deep so the toothpick stands upright. Check daily and discard wireworms (and any slugs) in soapy water.
For more click on Plant Pests 1 - Plant Pests Part 2, Controlling Insects
Making the Most of Bedding Plants/Annuals
Save your money: For a nice display, the more petunias, begonias, impatiens and other bedding plants the better! Save your money by purchasing them in cell packs, not individual pots. Select ones that are just coming into bud and avoid any in full flower or have finished flowering as you want them to be in their prime in your garden, not the store. Since annuals die once they have produced seeds, remove their spent flowers as soon as possible. This also keeps plant compact and bushy.
Select the right ones for the conditions: Read plant labels for preferred growing conditions. Gardens that receive sun for a few hours in the afternoon or morning qualify for partial shade. Areas that receive no less than 6 hours of sun a day are considered full sun.
Select the right ones for the conditions: Read plant labels for preferred growing conditions. Gardens that receive sun for a few hours in the afternoon or morning qualify for partial shade. Areas that receive no less than 6 hours of sun a day are considered full sun.
Roses in May
This is not the time to prune roses as they are getting ready to flower. Feed roses with a few inches of compost or organic fertilizer mixed into the soil. Don’t allow soil to dry out as this encourages ants to make nests in their roots and also hinders flower development. Control ants with a mix of 2 tablespoon of borax to 3 tablespoons of sugar. Sprinkle on the soil or mix with a some water to make a paste then drop some droplets on top of the nest.
If you’ve sworn off roses because they are high maintenance, think again. Rose breeders have developed many gorgeous easy care roses. Click here for a list of Easy Roses. Here's more on roses: Roses 101 - Types of Roses - Climbing Roses - Portland's Rose Test Garden - Pruning Roses - Rose Insects & Diseases
If you’ve sworn off roses because they are high maintenance, think again. Rose breeders have developed many gorgeous easy care roses. Click here for a list of Easy Roses. Here's more on roses: Roses 101 - Types of Roses - Climbing Roses - Portland's Rose Test Garden - Pruning Roses - Rose Insects & Diseases
Stake & Cage
Stake & Cage: Place cages, stakes and string, bamboo, trellises and other supports on delphiniums, phlox, cone flowers, Michaelmas daisies, peonies and other tall and top-heavy plants before they flop.
Ground Covers: Cut off the dead flowers from rock cress, yellow alyssum (Alyssum saxatile), perennial candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum), winter heathers and other ground covers. This keeps plants compact and some may reflower. To deadhead, just grab the plant by the ends where the dead flowers are cut them off.
Ground Covers: Cut off the dead flowers from rock cress, yellow alyssum (Alyssum saxatile), perennial candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum), winter heathers and other ground covers. This keeps plants compact and some may reflower. To deadhead, just grab the plant by the ends where the dead flowers are cut them off.
Houseplants & Tropical Plants
It’s time to repot plants that have outgrown their pots. Indicators are daily watering, top heavy plants that fall over, yellow leaves, weak growth and roots growing out of the drainage holes. Select a pot 2 inches larger than the existing one. Gently loosen roots before planting then firm soil around the roots and water gently. Place in a bright location out of direct sunlight until it revives. For plants that don’t need to be repotted, just mix in some compost or slow release fertilizer on top of the soil. A dinner fork is just the right size to scratch it in. Once plants have recovered, harden them off before placing them outside for a vacation.
Planters
Planters: Save money by planting up your own seasonal planter. Start off with a container with drainage holes. Don’t add rocks to the bottom of the pot as it’s proven to impede drainage! Use a good potting soil, not garden soil. Add a tray under the pot to act as a water reservoir to reduce watering, and to protect surfaces. Read plant labels to select plants that like the same conditions and plant them together. Be creative and combine shrubs, perennials, annuals, fruit and veggies.
For effective designs use the 'thriller, filler and spiller' method. Plant a tall plant, 'the thriller', in the middle or the back. Surround the filler with smaller, bushier plants. Around the rim of the pot, plant 'spillers' so they will trail over the pot rim.
Water well and place in a shady protected location for a few days until they recover, then place them in their permanent location.
Containers with existing plants: Remove an inch or two of soil from the top of the pot and replace with some compost or SeaSoil. Repot any that are potbound into a larger planter. Add petunias and other annuals to add some flowers and colour. For more on containers click here.
For effective designs use the 'thriller, filler and spiller' method. Plant a tall plant, 'the thriller', in the middle or the back. Surround the filler with smaller, bushier plants. Around the rim of the pot, plant 'spillers' so they will trail over the pot rim.
Water well and place in a shady protected location for a few days until they recover, then place them in their permanent location.
Containers with existing plants: Remove an inch or two of soil from the top of the pot and replace with some compost or SeaSoil. Repot any that are potbound into a larger planter. Add petunias and other annuals to add some flowers and colour. For more on containers click here.
Plant of the month
Solomon's Seal
Common Name: Solomon’s seal
Botanical Name: Polygonatum Form: arching, vase shaped Family: Asparagaceae Genus: Polygonatum Plant Type: herbaceous perennial Mature Size: 2 to 6 feet tall depending on species & cultivar Growth: fast Origin: Europe, Asia Hardiness Zone: Foliage: green, alternate, sessile attachment clasp onto stems, lance shaped, 3”–8” long by 1”–4” wide Flowers: white, tubular, 1” bell-shaped, groups of 2-7 at leaf axils underneath the stems Fruit: small toxic, blue-black fruit Stems: non-woody (herbaceous), green, arching upright, 20” to 46” Exposure: shade, partial sun Soil: rich, moist Uses: mixed borders, under trees, shade gardens, woodland, cut flowers/stems Attracts: bees Invasive Tendencies: yes, due to underground rhizomes that colonize Tolerates: shade, drought once established & deer Propagation: rhizome divisions Problems: potentially invasive Comments: Solomon’s seal is a vigorous perennial with long, arching stems and dangling bell-shaped flowers. It’s a welcome addition to shade gardens with its attractive architectural form. There are several Polygonatum species and cultivars available, and not all have green foliage. Plant breeders have developed lovely, variegated cultivars with white or cream stripes that are slightly smaller and are not as aggressive as their green cousins. Both types turn an attractive yellow in autumn before they die back in preparation for winter. They magically appear in spring with erect stems resembling nodding spears that gradually unfurl and arch. Alternately spaced, green, lance-shaped leaves line up on each side of the long stems. As the plant matures, the leaves become larger whilst their stems to curve downwards. In May and June, tubular creamy white flowers with green serrated tips appear on the underside of the stems. They emerge at the leaf axils and are often hidden by the foliage. Depending on the species, the blossoms are in groups of 2 to 7. They are followed by bluish-black fruits that birds love. All Solomon seals spread grow from underground rhizomes, which quickly turn into colonies in favourable conditions. The white rhizomes are thick, fleshy and bear scars from where the previous stems arose. These scars resemble King Solomon’s seal, hence its common name. Growing Conditions All types of Solomon’s seals prefer rich, moist, well-drained soils in partial to full shade. They do well in dappled shade but avoid hot afternoon sun. Plant them under trees as they don’t mind the dry soil, overhead shade and the tree’s fallen leaves that cover the soil. If not planted under a tree, place a 3 inch layer of mulch around their base to help keep the soil moist in summer and to enrich the soil. In autumn, after the foliage turns yellow, cut the stems back to the ground. Place the stems, preferably cut into pieces, around and on top of the rhizomes for winter protection. In spring, remove the dead stems from the top of the plant and place on the ground around the plant. Solomon’s seal plants tolerate drought conditions once they are established. They are tough plants, but they don’t do well in sandy soil and hot sun. They don’t have any serious insects or diseases and are not favoured by deer. The only problem with Solomon’s seal is their colonies become larger and encroach on nearby plants over time. Use Solomon’s seal in shady and woodland gardens, in mixed borders, foundation plantings, under trees. Their stems are suitable to use in cut flower arrangements. Propagation: Dig up rhizomes in spring before new growth emerges or in autumn after the foliage turns yellow. To propagate, bury pieces of cut rhizomes horizontally just a few inches deep and keep evenly moist until established. |
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for the tropical Gardener

While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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