Cocoa in the garden.
Garden Chores for July
In This Issue
|
|
|
Fellow Gardeners..
Beware the creeping buttercup! They are tough, adaptable and will surely take over the world.
What’s with all the buttercups? Ever since our crazy hot heat dome and the atmospheric river of last year, creeping buttercups have infiltrated not just my lawn and garden, but most of the Lower Mainland of British Columbia.
Creeping buttercups are known to favour wet, poorly drained soils so why didn’t the record-breaking heat of last year kill them all off? I did some research to find out why these shiny pretty, little yellow things are so prevalent. It’s obvious they are tough cookies as they survived the drought, heat and soggy soils. But how? They are masters of adaption. Flowers and seeds are produced when it’s hot and dry. Alternately, with wet weather, they pump out lots of stolons. Unlike most seeds, buttercup seeds have the audacity to germinate in waterlogged soils. Their seedlings thrive to further colonize an area. Creeping buttercups blossom from March to August and produce up to 150 seeds per plant. Seed longevity is incredible as they remain viable for 20 to 80 years. Animals spread their hooked seeds, as so does wind and even water. We’ve all seen the mats of buttercup stolons that quickly appear. It doesn’t take long for them to weave their way through the lawn and garden. When the conditions are favorable, they go ‘stolon mad’ producing a plethora of new babies. However, when conditions aren’t good, such as a lack of nitrogen, they produce long stolons that search for a better location. Once found, the stolons quickly colonize an area. Well that it explains why they are so successful – they are masters of adaptation. Wouldn’t it be nice if lawns would be so resilient? Enjoy your summer garden and all those lovely shiny, yellow buttercups! Cheers, Amanda 
Such a simple and innocent looking flower... oh my.
July PLANT COMBO
July's plant combination is for a sunny location.
July's floriferous plant combination has longevity as it provides continuous flowers for at least a month. The pink and white floribunda rose, like all floribundas, will continue to flower well into autumn.
To its left, the small white flowers are from a perennial called feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium. Once their flowers fade, cut them back by a quarter, and they will pump out more blossoms. They also are great long lasting cut flowers. The purple and white cloud of flowers in the foreground are sweet is alyssum, Lobularia maritima. Once their flowers fade and plants become leggy, cut them back by 1/4 and they will become more compact and will reflower. To the right are the blue spikes of Royal Candles speedwell, Veronica 'Royal Candles'. Cut off spent flowers to promote more blossoms. This plant combination is for sunny to partial shade locations, with well drained fertile soil. |
New & Timely articles
Click on the links below to be redirected.
Subscribe!
Click on the picture to subscribe.
Water Restrictions
Please note that watering lawns in Metro Vancouver is allowed only one day a week. Argh!
STAGE 1 LAWN WATERING ALLOWED:
Even-numbered addresses on Saturdays Odd-numbered addresses on Sundays Automatic watering: 5 am – 7 am Manual watering: 6 am – 9 am Watering trees, shrubs and flowers is permitted any day from 5 am to 9 am if using a sprinkler, or any time if hand watering or using drip irrigation. All hoses must have an automatic shut-off device. Edible plants (veggies, fruits and herbs) are exempt from regulations Non-residential addresses: STAGE 1 LAWN WATERING ALLOWED: Even-numbered addresses on Mondays Odd-numbered addresses on Tuesdays Automatic watering: 4 am – 6 am Manual watering: 6 am – 9 am Watering trees, shrubs and flowers is permitted any day from 4 am to 9 am if using a sprinkler, or any time if hand watering or using drip irrigation. All hoses must have an automatic shut-off device. Edible plants are exempt from regulations Special permits are available that allow more frequent watering of newly planted lawns. Contact your local municipality for more information. For Metro Vancouver click here. |
July Garden Stars
Japanese spirea, Spiraea japonica, deciduous shrub, 3-4’ tall and wide, sun, light shade, pink flowers in summer to fall, yellow fall foliage, butterflies. Zones 4 to 9.
|
Japanese snowbell, Styrax japonicus, deciduous tree, 20’ to 30’ x 20’, fragrant white blossoms May to June, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
|
Patty's Purple hebe, H. buxifolia 'Patty's Purple', broadleaf evergreen shrub, sun, 2'-3' x 1-2'. Zones 9 to 10.
|
Astilbes, herbaceous perennials, 6in to 4ft, flowers in white, pinks, purples depending on variety. Most prefer partial shade to shady locations with moist soils. Zones 3 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
|
Lucifer montbretia, Crocosmia 'Lucifer', herbaceous perennial, sun to part shade, 2 - 3' x 1 - 2', butterflies, hummingbirds. Zones 5 to 9.
|
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), semi-evergreen sub-shrub, scented leaves and flowers in June & July, full sun and dry soil, 1 to 3’, attracts bees, butterflies. Zones 5 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
|
Catalpa, deciduous tree, 50' - 70' x 20 - 40', fragrant flowers, bears long seed pods, sun. Zones 4 to 9.
|
Oakleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia, deciduous shrub, 6' to 8' tall and wide, flowers mature to pink and persist into winter, plum fall foliage colour, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
|
Clustered bellflower, Campanula glomerata ‘Superba’, herbaceous perennial, 1.5' -2.2' x 1'-2', sun to shade. Zones 3 to 8.
|
Bear's breeches, Acanthus mollis, herbaceous perennial, 3’-5’ x 2-3’, blooms June to July, sun to part shade, thorns, attractive foliage. Zones 7 to 11. Click on the pic for more.
|
Cape fuchsia, Phygelius capensis, herbaceous perennial or sub shrub, summer flowers into fall, 2’–3’ x 2’, sun to part shade, yellow or pink, attracts hummingbirds. Zones 6 to 9
|
Hardy Fuchsia, F. magellanica, tender deciduous shrub, 4' to 8' tall and wide, partial shade, prefers moist soil, attracts butterflies & hummingbirds. Zones 6 to 9.
|
Daylily, Hemerocallis spp., herbaceous perennial, 10”-12” tall & wide, sun, part shade, repeat fragrant blooms. Zones 2 to 9. Click on pic for more.
|
Leopard’s bane, Doronicum orientale, herbaceous perennial, part sun, shade, 1’ to 3’. Zones 4 to 8.
|
Kanika Peruvian lily, Alstroemeria 'Inticancha Kanika', tuberous herbaceous perennial, sun to part sun, 1 -3’ x 1 -2’. Zones 8 to 10. Click on the pic for more.
|
Yellow wax bells, Kirengeshoma palmata, herbaceous perennials, 3’ to 4’ x 2’ to 3’, June to July, part to full shade. Zones 5 to 8.
|
French California lilac, Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles, broadleaf evergreen, fragrant blue flowers in summer, 4’- 6’ tall and wide, sun to light shade, attracts butterflies. Zones 6 to 9
|
Japanese Stewartia, Stewartia pseudocamellia, deciduous tree, 20 - 40' tall, 10 - 25' wide, sun to part shade, attractive bark, white camellia-like flowers June to July. Zones 5-8. Click on the pic for more.
|
'Royal Purple' smokebush, Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple', deciduous shrub, purple summer foliage & flowers, fall colour, 10-15’ x 15’- 20’. Sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 8
|
Persian silk tree/mimosa, Albizia julibrissin, deciduous tree, 16 to 52', fragrant, sun and dry soil. Zones 6 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
|
‘Black Lace’ elderberry, Sambucus nigra, deciduous shrub, 6’-8’ x 6’, fragrant white blooms June, July, black edible berries, sun to part shade, butterflies, birds. Zones 4 to 7.
|
Kousa dogwood, Cornus kousa, deciduous tree, 15-24’ x 15-20’, fall colour, reddish tasteless but edible fruit, sun to light shade. Zones 5-8.
|
'Crazy Daisy' shasta daisy, Leucanthemum × superbum, herbaceous perennial, 18” to 2’ x 12” to 18”, attracts butterflies, sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 9.
|
Sweet Rosy Oriental hybrid lily, summer flowering bulb, 32-44”, sun, part shade, fragrant. Zones 3-8
|
plant police
This hosta has been fried by too much heat and sun.
My Halcyon hosta is shaded for the most part of the day, as it’s under some large false cypress trees. It's only at the end of the day it receives direct sunshine. Usually this is not a problem as our summers are mild in coastal southern BC.
It was the late afternoon and early evening sun during the heat dome of last year that practically set this hosta on fire. Since I now know that this hosta is vulnerable to excessive heat where it is currently situated, I have a few options. I could transplant it to a location where it only receives morning sun or plant it in the shade, however, I'd rather not move it. It looks great where it is, besides hostas are difficult to transplant as their roots are densely packed. If it was a continuous issue, I certainly would move it. My solution is to provide some temporary shade when the temperature rises, by way of propping up some cardboard, landscape fabric, a tablecloth to block the sun. It’s an instant and effective solution. I’ll also do the same for other plants that also suffered from the heat last year. Although the sun scalded foliage is unsightly, it's best to leave it on so the exposed leaves underneath will suffer the same fate as the ones removed.
Landscape fabric pegged onto a small trellis shades the halcyon hosta.
Watering in Summer
Handwatering is often needed during the summer.
Droopy plants TLC
This lilac is not wilting because it's thirsty, it's suffering from heat stress.
Drought: It's summer so it is par for the course that there'll be some wilting going on in the garden. Lack of water is often the common culprit, so keep the hose handy and water well. Don't wait to give them a drink, as the longer they suffer they are more vulnerable to insects, diseases and malnutrition.
Signs of heat stress on a deodar cedar, Cedrus deodara.
Heat Stress: Too much sun and soaring temperatures are reasons why plants droop and sag. They usually revive in the evening when temperatures cool. To shade effected plants, prop up an umbrella, or use a suitable sized trellis. Drape the trellis with cardboard, landscape and other fabric. Use clothes pins for an easy way to attach the shading material to the trellis.
Protect vulnerable plants from the hot sun with a bamboo screen.
All Trees & Hedges: Deciduous trees (drop their leaves in fall), conifers (bear cones ex: cedars, pines) and hedges of all kinds need to be watered during the summer. A deep long soak once a month is all that’s needed. If they don’t receive adequate water, they will drop their leaves prematurely – before autumn. Lack of water also reduces root growth, which makes trees unstable, and they are also more prone to insects and diseases.
Street Trees: Don't forget to water any street trees that the city planted on and around your property. 
The yellow foliage and premature defoliation of this katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum) is a symptom of lack of water and heat stress.
Summer Roses
This Golden Olymp climbing rose smells as good as it looks.
Deadheading Roses: Remove spent blooms by cutting them off just above an outward facing leaf with 5 to 7 leaflets. This also applies when cutting roses for flower arrangements. For stems without foliage, cut canes back by ¼ to just above a node or side branch. For more on pruning roses click here.
After Each Flush of Blooms: Water well then fertilize with kelp meal, seaweed extract or fish fertilizer to promote healthy growth and more blossoms. Enrich the soil with an inch or two of compost mixed in around the roots. Top it off with a 3-inch layer of mulch followed by a nice long drink of water. Roses also benefit from a high phosphorous fertilizer (middle number highest ex: 6-8-6) to promote more blossoms.
Tomato Time
Remove any leaves that shade immature tomatoes so they will ripen faster.
They should be bearing ripened fruit by now, if not, there’s a few things to do to encourage ripening and to increase plant health.
Suckers grow where the stems join (stem axils) and should be removed.
In The Veggie Garden
It's time to reap what you've sown.
Harvest daily, weed often, water when needed and feed plants if they are yellowing and weak. Use kelp, fish and other organic fertilizers. If weeds and frequent watering is an issue use straw as a mulch between plants. Torn up newspapers also are effective.
New Spuds: Harvest new baby potatoes when they produce flowers. Either pull out a few spuds or dig up the entire plant and harvest them all. To learn more about growing potatoes click more. Taters: Plant seed potatoes for Christmas harvest. Harvest: Daily harvesting ensures fresh produce picked at their prime. Small zucchinis may not look impressive, but they much tastier than giant ones. To learn more about when to harvest crops click on more. Onions, garlic, shallots: To encourage big fat bulbs, snip off flowers as they appear (make them into pesto or add to stir fries). Stop watering when their leaves start to yellow. Harvest when their leaves brown. Cure them in a shaded, dry, and cool place, away from full sun. This tightens the outer layers, which protects the bulb. Once cured, store in a dry, cool and dark location. Here's some more information on veggie gardening: Growing Food - Crop Rotation, Succession & Companion Planting - Harvesting - Growing Potatoes 
Don't harvest all your carrots as their flowers are loved by bees and other pollinators.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew affects many plants this time of year
Cucumbers, melons, squash, roses, garden phlox are just a few of the plants that become infected with powdery mildew during the summer. This common disease appears as a white powdery residue that resembles talcum powder. It first appears first on new foliage and flower buds and infects trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, herbs and vegetables. It's a very prevalent disease caused by weather and incorrect maintenance. To learn how to control powdery mildew and for a safe, organic spray click here.
White powdery mildew appears first on the new foliage and flower buds.
|
July Garden ChoresClick on the coloured links to be redirected.
Go Walkabout: Daily garden inspections are prudent during the summer. They alert you to thirsty, hot wilting plants, ones that need deadheading, flopping plants, overcrowded areas, yellow nutrient deprived plants, diseases, insect and weed infestations. For more click on Garden Inspections
Use scissors to deadhead lobelia and other bedding plants.
Bedding Plants/Annuals: To revive tired petunias, impatiens and other annuals and to prolong their life, cut them back by a quarter to one half. Do this before they go to seed. Follow them up with a drink and some organic plant food to speed their recovery.
Remove Flowers: Pinch off flowers from basil, dusty miller and coleus to prolong their life and to promote a bushy plant. Weed. Pulling up weeds is easier if you moisten the soil first. 
Dusty miller flower buds.
Remove Flowers: Pinch off flowers from basil, dusty miller and coleus to prolong their life and to promote a bushy plant.
Weed. Pulling up weeds is easier if you moisten the soil first. 
Dollar store trellis work well to hold up these heavy peony blossoms.
Remedial Staking: Remove stakes from gladiolus, peonies, delphiniums and other plants once they no longer need them. For plants that continue to grow such as dahlias and tomatoes, support any wayward stems. Prop up tall perennials and annuals that are top heavy with a suitable sized trellis from a dollar store for a quick fix.
Plant in Fall: It’s best to plant trees, shrubs, vines and perennials in autumn when the rains return and temperatures cool. 
Cut stems back from plants that are overtaking others.
Garden Beds: Trim overgrown plants that are impeding the growth of others. Add fish fertilizer, organic plant food, compost or composted manure to hungry plants that are yellow and are struggling. And weed of course.
Compost: Turn the pile after adding veggie scraps then follow up with a layer of dried foliage or use torn newspaper and brown waste for the necessary brown/carbon layer. Add water when needed as nothing happens without it. The pile should be slightly moist, not wet nor dry. Don’t add cooked or processed food including rice or bread. Don’t add meat or fat and rinse out any un-cooked eggshells as this creates a foul odor, entices rodents and screws up the compost. For more on composting click on Composting. 
Divide overgrown perennials like this sneezeweed (Helenium) in the fall or in early spring.
Divide Perennials: Perennials need to be divided when they bear fewer, and/or smaller flowers. Another sign is new growth that only develops at the perimeter of the plant leaving a bare centre. Divide daylilies, irises and other perennials once they have finished flowering.
Plant coneflowers and other drought tolerant coneflower in the fall. Water well until they are established and new growth emerges.
Water-wise Gardening: Conserving water in the garden is easy to do if you use select drought resistant plants, add a mulch and know how to water correctly. To learn more click on Drought Gardening
Going on Vacation? Gardens need tending during the summer so do try to have someone garden-sit even if it’s just to make sure plants are watered and ripened crops are harvested so they don’t rot. 
A shallow dish becomes a water hole for butterflies and bees.
Water for All: Since butterflies, bees, birds and all life need water to live, a shallow dish of fresh water is a lifesaver. Place a few around the garden in shade and replenish often. A water dish is also appreciated by neighbours and their dogs on their daily walks in your hood.
Take cuttings from your favorite plants. A camellia is pictured.
Semi-hardwood cuttings: Take cuttings from roses, lavenders, trees and shrubs. Take cuttings from partially mature stems of trees and shrubs that snap when bent. For more on taking cuttings click here.
Don't compost infected peony foliage.
Peony Leaf Blotch (aka peony measles) shows up this time of year. There's no control, just remove and discard infected leaves before winter. Click here for more.
Summer Lawns
Apply an inch of water a week to lawns.
Set your mower to 3 inches, mow often so you don't have to rake or bag the clippings. If your lawn is not green despite being watered, apply an organic or slow-release fertilizer high in nitrogen (the first number) Apply an inch on water a week and follow your local watering restrictions. Wait to install new lawns and reseed patchy lawns in the fall.
Click on the following links for more info: Lawn Care Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Mossy Lawns - Lawn Reno Seed & Sod - Lawn Grub Control - Lawn Alternatives What to Prune Now
Remove suckers and any stubs.
Summer pruning deters growth unlike winter pruning that stimulates new stems. It also tames obnoxious plants,
increase flowers and fruit on fruiting trees while lessening the subsequent growth of suckers and watersprouts. Remove branches at their base, don't leave stubs. Pruning Trees & Fruit Trees: Remove dead branches, suckers, watersprouts, crossing branches, weak and old stems. It's best to prune ornamental cherries now, not winter, to prevent the spread of bacterial canker Pruning Shrubs: Cut back shrubs after flowering, especially if they are spindly. Remove no more than ¼ of overall growth. Remove dead, old, unproductive stems, spindly ones, and branches that grow towards the plant’s center. Apples: To create more fruit, cut back all side shoots to a few buds. The remaining shoot will revert to fruiting spur in a couple of years. Wisteria and Vines: Tame obnoxious vines by cutting back side shoots to a few buds. Grapes: Cut back stems keeping only a few clusters per branch. You’ll have fewer grapes, but they will be bigger and healthier. For more click on Pruning Grapes For more on pruning click on Pruning Basics 101 - Pruning Tools - Pruning Clematis - Pruning Roses 
Thin fruit to prevent insects and diseases infesting the apples.
What to Remove
Which looks better? The tree on the right that's been topped, or the one on the left that has not suffered the same indignity.
Beetles & Blight
Japanese beetles eat between the veins leaving holes.
Japanese Beetles: Potatoes, beans and apple trees are a few of the plants that are susceptible to this common plant pest. Symptoms include holes in foliage with only the veins remaining. To learn more click on Japanese Beetles
Potato & Tomato Blight: Humid, warm weather brings out the blight in potatoes and tomatoes. Look for dark edges on the foliage. There’s no cure, so harvest as much as you can, then destroy the plants and remove all plant parts from the soil. Don’t plant any tomatoes or potatoes in that same spot preferably for at least four years. 
When blight occurs, harvest any unblemished tomatoes then destroy the plant and infected debris.
July's Arrangement
July's blossoms are loosely arranged for an informal display. There's roses, clustered bellflowers, hostas and astilbe. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements
|
Plant of the month
Delphiniums
Blue Lace New Millennium Delphinium.
The white 'bee' of a Pacific Giant delphinium.
Butterflies love their sweet nectar.
Excalibur Pink is a cultivar with sturdy stems to support the densely packed flower spikes.
Can you spot the bee inside the delphinium's 'bee'?
Delphiniums are an old-fashioned cottage garden favorite.
A single blossom of the Excalibur Pink delphinium.
Pacific Giants are so tall, they often need gentle staking.
Allow some seeds to mature on the plant so they will self-seed.
Flowering lasts for months, starting in late spring and well into fall.
Seeds are held in silique pods with small black seeds.
|
Common Name: delphinium, perennial larskspur
Botanical Name: Delphinium Form: upright, narrow, columnar Family: Ranunculaceae (buttercup family) Genus: Delphinium Species: 300 species Plant Type: herbaceous deciduous perennial Mature Size: depends on type, generally 5 to 6ft tall and 2ft wide Growth: fast Origin: Northern hemisphere, mountain regions of Africa Hardiness Zone: 3 to 8 Foliage: 3 to 7 deeply pointed lobes per leaf palmately arranged, toothed margins, green leaves cluster at the bottom of the plant Flowers: Borne on erect stems from 10 cm (3.9”) to meters (6’.62”) depending on species, raceme inflorescences (flower clusters), five sepals form a tube with a nectar rich spur at its base. Four small true petals lie inside the flower (referred to as a ‘bee’), which may or may not be the same colour of the sepals. Flowers are usually deep blue, but there’s also pink, red, yellow or white species, hybrids and varieties. Blossoms June, July and August. Fruit: silique pod with many small black seeds Stems: non woody, tall, herbaceous and will bend with the weight of the flowers Exposure: full sun for 6 to 8 hours, shelter from wind Soil: must be well-drained Uses: pollinator garden for bees and butterflies, garden borders, cut flowers, hummingbirds Propagation: seeds, cuttings, root divisions Pruning: cut off flower spikes after flowering, cut off faded foliage in fall and discard Problems: All parts are toxic to animals and humans when ingested. Aphids, crown rot, slugs, botrytis grey mold, mildew, leaf miners Comments: Delphiniums are one of my favorite perennials. Their narrow elegant profile, fern-like foliage, and spires of blue flowers are difficult to resist. In the garden, they provide a much-needed vertical accent for round, weeping, horizontal and vase shaped plants. Persnickety plants: I wish delphiniums weren’t so finicky. Growing them in the Pacific Northwest is a bit tricky due to all the rain. Combine that with clay soil and plants inevitably rot. Delphiniums must have good drainage as they are prone to many types of diseases, especially crown and root rot. I’ve lost quite a few myself due to crown rot. To prevent diseases, plant them where there’s good air circulation and don’t overcrowd. Garden location: Plant delphiniums in sunny location where they’ll receive 6 to 8 hours of sun per day. Morning sun is best, so morning dew quickly evaporates. Shelter from strong winds to prevent their flower stalks from flopping over. It’s best to keep them staked from the get-go. When stems bend, cut them back by one half so new growth will develop at the base. Place any flower spikes in a vase as delphiniums are excellent cut flowers. Deadheading & Seeding: To ensure new generations and longevity, allow some seeds to develop. Delphinium’s seeds are viable and will grow into new plants, but don’t worry, they are not invasive. It is important to deadhead them after flowering so they don’t waste energy producing seeds, however, leave a few faded flower stalks so they will self-seed and will germinate the following spring. Types of delphiniums: There are many varieties of delphiniums. The tallest varieties are found within the Delphinium elatum group, with stalks typically 5 to 6 feet tall with a spread of 2 feet. The majority of garden delphinium hybrids and cultivars are derived from the elatum species. The D. belladonna group averages 3 to 4 feet tall with a spread of 2 feet. Dwarf varieties, like D. grandiflorum, range 1 to 2-feet tall and 12 to 18 inches wide. Annual delphiniums (Delphinium, Consolida) are commonly referred to as larkspurs. They resemble perennial delphiniums, but they do not regrow in spring. There are numerous types available with a wide range of colours. Purchase plants from plant nurseries in spring or grow them from seed. Planting: Plant potted delphiniums in the spring. Improve existing soils by mixing in a couple of inches of compost, SeaSoil or composted manure. When planting, dig a hole in the amended soil at the same depth of the rootball and twice as wide. The crown, where the stems and roots meet, should be level with the soil. Toxicity: All types of delphiniums, and their parts, are poisonous to animals and humans if ingested. Touching the plant can cause skin irritation with some people so it’s a good idea to wear gloves when handling them, including the annual species. FYI delphiniums are used in asthma medications. 
Delphinium are self-sowing when conditions are right, but are not considered to be invasive.
Delphiniums must have full sun and soil that drains well.
Blue Lace New Millennium Delphinium blossoms are light blue with a pink tint.
Their attractive lacy foliage is deeply lobed.
|
At base of each flower is a nectar-filled spur.
|
|
|
THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
Click on the links below to be redirected.
for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
|
|
Copyright 2017 The Garden Website.com, Amanda's Garden Consulting Company - All Rights Reserved