It's pumpkin time!
October Garden Chores
In This Issue
October at Butchart Gardens on Vancouver Island. Click on pic for more.
New Westminster Garden Tour - Video: Amanda's July Garden - Video: Speeding up Tomato Ripening
October Garden Tours - Garden Classes - October Garden Stars - Garden Beds - Perennials - Planting Time
Fall & Winter Colour - Winter Protection - Banana & Palm Tree Winter Protection - Pruning - Lawns
In the Veggie Garden - Spring Flowering Bulbs - Roses - Collecting Seeds - Ponds in Winter
Mushrooms & Toadstools - Composting - Bug & Rodent Free Home - Caterpillar Control
Hummingbirds - Birds - Storing Dahlias & Other Tender Bulbs - Seasonal Planters
Before & After Storms - Storing Tools Etc. for Winter
Plant of the Month: Chrysanthemums
October Garden Tours - Garden Classes - October Garden Stars - Garden Beds - Perennials - Planting Time
Fall & Winter Colour - Winter Protection - Banana & Palm Tree Winter Protection - Pruning - Lawns
In the Veggie Garden - Spring Flowering Bulbs - Roses - Collecting Seeds - Ponds in Winter
Mushrooms & Toadstools - Composting - Bug & Rodent Free Home - Caterpillar Control
Hummingbirds - Birds - Storing Dahlias & Other Tender Bulbs - Seasonal Planters
Before & After Storms - Storing Tools Etc. for Winter
Plant of the Month: Chrysanthemums
Pretty pink Michaelmas daisies. Click on pic for more.
Fellow Gardeners..
My bridal wreath spirea didn't flower this year because they blossomed too early.
Hello Fellow Gardeners,
After losing a few plants this year from a killing frost last January, I promised myself I would do a better job preparing my garden for winter. That’s the trouble with living in a temperate climate – sometimes it isn’t so temperate, which catches us all off guard. Last January was a good example. The fall weather was positively balmy, and it continued through December, which is not that unheard of, but surprisingly it continued into January. And all the people of the land rejoiced! I, however, did not. I became very suspicious because, after all, it was winter – not autumn. Then it hit. A prevailing low plummeted the temperature to double digits below freezing. Because it had been so mild, many plants started to bud up thinking that it was spring. It was to their demise. Throughout British Columbia, especially along the south coast, those that were fooled either didn’t flower, were severely damaged and some kicked the bucket. Of course, no one knew the extent of the damage until the real spring arrived. Some of the many plants that didn’t survive make it included sweet boxes (Sarcococca confusa), Hebes, Lithodoras and even hard to kill butterfly bushes, Buddleja davidii. Some early flowering plants, like my bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea x vanhouttei) didn’t flower because their wee buds froze off and died. Even some roses suffered – poor things – and daffodils. Where were all the daffs? This year I am going to go the extra mile to do more to protect the vulnerable and not so vulnerable plants. I used to live in the far north so I’m no greenhorn when it comes to wrapping plants with old sheets and piling on the fall leaves for a winter mulch. Needless to say, my winter garden is not going to look very charming this year. Maybe if I use bed sheets with pretty flowers? Nah, it still looks weird – maybe Egyptian cotton sheets? I think I prefer them on my bed. Cheers, Amanda 
In B.C., daffodils were few & far between last spring.
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The BC Fuchsia and Begonia Society promotes fuchsias, begonias, ferns and other shade-loving plants. The society meets at 7pm, 2nd Wednesday each month at St. Timothy's Church Hall, 4550 Kitchener Street. They offer knowledgeable speakers, plant displays, plant sales, refreshments and friendship. Click on Fuchsias & Begonias to learn more.
October's Floral Arrangement
October 2024
Lady Darlene dahlia is accompanied with hydrangea leaves and cotoneaster berries. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements
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Video: Taming Tomatoes for Fast RipeningNW Horticultural Society Garden Tour
Garden #1 combines style & beauty.
As a new member of the New Westminster Horticultural Society, I thoroughly enjoyed their annual member’s garden tour. Click here to see the knock-out plant combinations, clever garden designs, breathtaking beautiful blossoms, robust veggies, and a fanciful fairy garden.
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Garden Classes
Restoring Soil Health: This four-day workshop is designed for the ecologically minded, farmers & landscape stewards to improve plant & animal health. Taught by Jo Tobias, the founder of RootShoot Soils, is a Regenerative Soils & Living Compost Specialist.
Dates: Nov. 16, 23, 30 & Dec.7th 2024 (Saturdays) 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM Location: Riverway School, 4340 Carson St, Burnaby. B.C. To learn more and to register click here. More Garden Classes
Click on the coloured links for more information.
Location: Credo Christian High School, Langley, B.C. Preparing for Fall: Prepare the garden for winter and the coming year: planting bulbs, dahlias, what to prune, fall lawn care, what to plant and much more. Saturday, Oct 5, 2024, 9:30am to 3:30pm, $59.99 Pruning the Right Way: Classroom session in morning followed by pruning session in the afternoon. Saturday, Oct 19, 2024, 9:30 am to 3:30 pm. $59.99 October's Public Gardens
Hatley Castle's gardens are beautiful even in October.
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October Garden Stars
Doll's Eyes, Actaea pachypoda f. pachypoda, herbaceous perennial, 18-30”, white spring flowers & white poisonous, berries, part shade to shade. Zones 3 to 9.
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Gaultheria procumbens, winterberry, broadleaf evergreen groundcover, 6” x 1’, white bell blooms June to July followed by edible red berries, part shade to shade, acidic soils. Zones 3 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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Beautyberry, Callicarpa bodinieri, North American deciduous shrub, 6-10', sun to part shade. Zones 6-8. Click on the pic for more.
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Sourwood, sorrel tree, Oxydendrum arboreum, deciduous tree, 20 – 50’ x 10-25’, fragrant summer blooms, sun, part shade, fall colour. Zone 5 to 9.
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Red maple, Acer rubrum, deciduous tree, zones 3 -9, 40 to 70' tall, 30 to 50' wide. Indigenous to North America.
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Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, broadleaf evergreen, 10’-20’ tall & wide, fragrant flowers Oct to Dec, fruit resembles strawberries. Zones 7 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Chinese witch hazel, Hamamelis mollis, deciduous shrub, zones 5 - 8, 10 to 15' tall and wide, fragrant flowers January to March. Sun to part shade. Click on the pic for more.
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Ornamental kale, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, biennial, 1’x 15”, grown for foliage, sun to part shade. Zones 2-9. Click on the pic for more.
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Honey locust, Gleditsia triacanthos, deciduous tree, 60’-80’ x 60’-80’, sun, thorny, inconspicuous flowers followed by twisted seed pods, fall colour. Zones 3 to 8.
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Hardy cyclamen, Cyclamen hederifolium, 6-8” x 12”, herbaceous perennial, blooms Sept – Oct, part shade, mulch. Zones 5 to 9.
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Guernsey lily, Nerine bowdenii, perennial bulb, 14-18”x3-6”, sun, fall flowers, well-drained soil. Zones 8 to 10.
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Ox eye, Heliopsis helianthoides var scabra 'Bleeding Hearts', herbaceous perennial, 3’ to 4’, sun. Zones 3 to 9.
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Sweet autumn clematis/virgins bower (C. ternifolia), deciduous vine, 15-30ft, fragrant, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
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Chrysanthemums, herbaceous perennial, 1-3’ x 1-2’, flowers from September to frost. Zones 5 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Dwarf winged burning bush, Euonymus alatus 'Compactus', deciduous shrub, 9 to 10' tall and wide, sun to part shade. Zones 4-8. Click on pic for more.
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Chinese lantern, Physalis alkekengi var. franchetii, herbaceous perennial, 24”-34” x 24”-36”, underground runners are invasive, sun to part shade. Zones 3 to 9.
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Mahonia Oregon grape holly, Mahonia aquifolium, broadleaf evergreen, 3-6 ft x 2 ft, yellow spring flowers, red fall foliage. Soil tolerant, sun, part shade. Zones 5 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Autumn crocus, Colchicum autumnale, corm, 6 - 10”, spring leaves, fall flowers, sun to shade. Zones 4 to 8. Click on pic for more.
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Persian Ironwood, Parrotia persica, deciduous tree, zones 4-8, 20 to 40' tall to 30' wide, full sun, interesting bark.
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Japanese silver grass, Miscanthus sinensis, 5-9ft x 4-5ft, reddish brown blooms age to silver from fall thru winter, sun to part shade. Zones 5-9
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Japanese Stewartia, S. pseudocamellia, deciduous tree, 20 - 40' x 10 - 25' wide, sun part shade, nice bark, white camellia-like flowers summer. Zones 5-8. Click on pic for more.
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October Garden Chores
Click on the coloured links to be redirected.
At Hatley Castle their October gardens are a mix of brilliant fall colours and faded flora. Click on the pic for more.
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Buchart Gardens come alive with colour in the autumn. Click on pic for more.
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It's not recommended to remove all the debris off the beds.
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Fallen leaves provide beneficial insects like ladybugs, a safe haven over the winter.
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Earthworms feed on fall leaves to produce essential plant nutrients.
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Garden Beds: Save yourself time and trouble by not raking off all the leaves, twigs and other organic litter from garden beds. As the debris breaks down it adds nutrients to the soil, protects the ground from erosion, temperature fluctuations and from weeds. It also provides habitat for bees, ladybugs and other beneficial insects to overwinter.
Cut hostas and other perennials back once they turn yellow.
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Keep a few inches of stems on daylilies when cutting them back.
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Leave the roots of nasturtiums & other annuals in the ground.
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The chop & drop method makes garden clean up easier.
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Brush off leaves that have fallen on top of shrubs from overhead trees,
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Perennials: Cut back the stems of cone flowers, hostas, daylilies and other perennials once their foliage yellows. Allow 6 inches of stem to remain to protect the crowns throughout the winter and to provide homes for beneficial insects. Cut off petunias, impatiens and other annuals/bedding plants, but leave their roots as they add nutrients and organic matter to the soil.
Chop & Drop: When cutting back daylilies, iris, and other herbaceous perennials, don't discard those healthy and blemish free leaves and stems. Cut them into pieces and place around the base and on top of the plant for a perfect winter mulch. Don’t chop and drop peony leaves as they are prone to peony measles and any plant that is sickly.
Chop & Drop: When cutting back daylilies, iris, and other herbaceous perennials, don't discard those healthy and blemish free leaves and stems. Cut them into pieces and place around the base and on top of the plant for a perfect winter mulch. Don’t chop and drop peony leaves as they are prone to peony measles and any plant that is sickly.
Wait to cut back ornamental grasses in early spring.
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Don't cut back red-hot poker plants in fall.
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Reduce winter kill on chrysanthemums by not cutting them back before winter.
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Don’t cut back: There’s no need to cut back ornamental grasses as their seedheads are a nice addition to the winter garden, plus birds appreciate the seeds. Protect the vulnerable crowns of certain plants by not cutting them back: anise hyssop (Agastache), red-hot pokers (Kniphofia uvaria), garden mums (Chrysanthemum), lungwort (Pulmonaria) and bearded tongues (Penstemon).
This old pampas grass needs to be divided.
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It's time to divide this garden phlox.
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Instead of tearing roots apart use a sharp knife or saw.
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Dividing Herbaceous (non-woody) Perennials: Dig up and divide bearded iris, daylilies, phlox, hostas and other perennials that are too big for their britches. To cut through tough roots, use a bread knife, old pruning saw, drywall knife, or a hori hori knife. Pot up straight away or replant in the garden and water thoroughly.
Plant trees so their trunk flair is above the ground.
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Loosen roots of new plants before planting.
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Take advantage of end of the year plant sales.
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Garden centres display the best plants of the season.
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Planting Time: Autumn is the ideal time for planting as the ground is still warm from the summer and it’s cool and wet. Gently loosen roots before planting, and plant at the correct depth. Place trees so their trunk flare is above the ground and shrubs, so their crown sits at soil level. To learn more about successful planting techniques click on Planting Know How.
Witch elder foliage turns yellow, orang & pink in autumn.
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Witch alder, Fothergilla major, fragrant, white spring flowers, sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 8.
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Flowering dogwood, Cornus florida, 15’-30’, white spring flowers, sun, part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
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Flowering dogwood tree's fall colour doesn't disappoint.
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Winter & Fall Colour: Spruce up your fall garden with seasonal beauties with a visit to your local plant nursery. Add a pop of colour with bedding plants: winter pansies, dusty millers, ornamental kale or perennials such as fall asters, cyclamen, lenten roses, coral bells, beautyberry. Colourful shrubs and trees include winter heather, burning bush, Persian ironwood and Japanese maples.
Overwinter potted plants in trenches & cover with straw.
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Protect plants with a thick layer of foliage.
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Protect shrubs with fabric, not plastic.
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Frost blankets are often available at dollar stores.
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Tie up evergreens to prevent breakage.
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Winter Protection: Prepare plants for the worst and hope for the best – no matter where you live. It’s not just prolonged double digit freezing temperatures that kills plants, it’s fluctuating temperatures. As the soil expands in the daytime it contracts when it cools at night. This expansion and contraction dislodges roots and ultimately kills plants.
There are many ways to protect plants over the winter. Place soil or fall leaves over top of them, wrapping them in fabric such as old sheets, frost blankets and burlap. Don’t use plastic as it doesn’t have any insulating value, and it promotes rotting due to the lack of air circulation. For more click on Winter Protection.
There are many ways to protect plants over the winter. Place soil or fall leaves over top of them, wrapping them in fabric such as old sheets, frost blankets and burlap. Don’t use plastic as it doesn’t have any insulating value, and it promotes rotting due to the lack of air circulation. For more click on Winter Protection.
Cut down banana plants and pile on the leaves for an efficient winter protection.
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This is the incorrect way to protect banana plants.
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Wrap the bud on top of palm trees, if you can reach it.
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A Chinese windmill palm survives the snow. Click on pick for more.
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Outside Bananas & Palms: Japanese bananas (Musa basjoo) are surprisingly hardy to USDA zone 5. To protect them during the winter, cut down all their stems to 2 feet, then pile the chopped up stems on top of the roots. Add fall leaves, newspapers if necessary for full coverage. Chinese windmill palms are hardy to USDA zone 7 so they benefit from specifically placed winter protection. Don’t wrap them in plastic but do protect the top bud on palm trees by wrapping it with old sheets, frost blankets etc. – if you can manage to reach the top of the palm. Add at least three inches of fall leaves or straw around the base of the plant.
It's too late to shear hedges.
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Don't cut back hydrangeas as you will be removing next year's blossoms.
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If you wish to tidy hydrangeas, only cut off their spent blossoms.
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Remove suckers by pulling or cutting them off.
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Easy on the Pruning: Don’t prune trees, shrubs, hedges now as it promotes new tender growth that’s easily killed by frost. Wait for winter to prune most plants including hedges, conifers & evergreens. Don’t cut back hydrangeas, rhododendrons, camellias and other spring bloomers as they have already set their flower buds. Do remove suckers, watersprouts, dead, diseased, broken branches and anything that’s diseased. Here's more on Pruning.
Lower the mower height to 2 inches. Check the height with a ruler.
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Get those leaves off the lawn before they rot.
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Mow dry fallen leaves & place on garden beds.
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Use a winterizer fertilizer high potash.
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Lawns: If your lawn is in really bad shape, get a soil test done so you know what it needs to make it feel better. In the meantime, mow it when the grass is dry and frost free, which might be a bit tricky this time of year but do your best. Set the mower to 2.0 inches and rake off fall leaves into garden beds. Or mow them in situ, bagging them at the same time. Place the shredded leaves and on top of the soil on garden beds for a nutritious and protective mulch. Fertilize lawns with a winterizer fertilizer that’s high in potash ex: 6-9-18. If the lawn is covered in moss and you didn’t lime last spring, do so now. Use Dolopril lime as it is gentler to the soil and contains calcium and magnesium. For more on lawns: Lawn Basics - Moss in Lawns -Fertilizers & Ratios
Lawns may not rebound in fall if they haven't been maintained during the summer.
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Fall is a perfect time to seed lawns.
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Purchase grass seeds that contains fertilizer.
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To renovate a sad lawn lower the mower height to 1½ to 2 inches and bag the cuttings. Follow up by giving it a good raking. Use a shovel to fling ¼ to ½ inch of screened compost, worm castings, or a garden blend over top the grass. Rake it so it is evenly dispersed. Select seeds for sun or shade depending on the conditions. Water frequently to ensure the seeds don’t dry out. To install a new lawn consider using sod for small areas and the front lawn. Here’s more on Lawn Reno, Seed & Sod.
Make a plan of your crops so you can rotate them into different beds next year.
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A garden journal is a handy garden tool.
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This cauliflower was harvested too late.
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A perfect cauliflower picked at is prime.
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These Swiss chard were a huge success.
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In the Veggie Garden
Take Notes & Pics: Will you remember everything that went on in this year’s veggie garden next year? I can’t rely on my memory so I take tons of pics so I don’t forget. Things to note are veggies with diseases, insect infestations, overcrowding, crops receiving too much shade or sun and crop failures. Celebrate what worked (yay!) and try to figure out why it was so successful. Make a simple sketch denoting where each of your crops were planted to ensure that the same type of veggie is not planted in the same place 2 to 3 years in a row. To learn more about vegetable gardening click on Crop Rotation, Succession & Companion Planting, and Food Gardening.
Take Notes & Pics: Will you remember everything that went on in this year’s veggie garden next year? I can’t rely on my memory so I take tons of pics so I don’t forget. Things to note are veggies with diseases, insect infestations, overcrowding, crops receiving too much shade or sun and crop failures. Celebrate what worked (yay!) and try to figure out why it was so successful. Make a simple sketch denoting where each of your crops were planted to ensure that the same type of veggie is not planted in the same place 2 to 3 years in a row. To learn more about vegetable gardening click on Crop Rotation, Succession & Companion Planting, and Food Gardening.
Discard all the spent crops and their debris from the garden.
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Keep broccoli, kale and chard as they don't mind the cold.
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Kale tastes better in the winter!
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Clean & Tidy the Veggie Garden: It’s important to remove and discard all dead, dying, diseased remnants from all crops including the soil so no nasty things overwinter and re-infest next year’s crops. Avoid putting anything buggy or diseased in the compost. This includes seedy weeds and ones with runners such as bindweed (wild morning glory), buttercups, ground ivy and horsetails. For a list on what to do, click on Fall Veggie Garden Clean-up.
Crops to Keep: There’s no need to remove broccoli, turnips, beets, brussel sprouts, carrots, kale, cabbage, cauliflower, Swiss chard and other cool crops if they are still producing and are healthy. Just remove any spent, yellow, and unhealthy growth and plants.
Crops to Keep: There’s no need to remove broccoli, turnips, beets, brussel sprouts, carrots, kale, cabbage, cauliflower, Swiss chard and other cool crops if they are still producing and are healthy. Just remove any spent, yellow, and unhealthy growth and plants.
Purchase and plant garlic now to harvest next year.
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Separate garlic cloves before planting.
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Wipe down squashes to prevent mould.
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Plant garlic! Select a well-drained, sunny site and add some compost, as they are heavy feeders. Break apart the cloves from the bulb and plant each one 2 - 3” deep and 4 – 6” inches apart. Don’t forget to add a label to mark their spot. Finally cover the entire area with at least 3 inches of straw or fall leaves to act as a winter mulch, and to protect them from hungry critters.
Cure winter squash: Prepare acorn, spaghetti squash, pumpkins etc. for storage by placing them in a warm, frost free location to cure for 4 to 5 days. To prevent mould, wipe them down first with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Store at 10 to 15°C (50 to 60°F).
Cure winter squash: Prepare acorn, spaghetti squash, pumpkins etc. for storage by placing them in a warm, frost free location to cure for 4 to 5 days. To prevent mould, wipe them down first with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Store at 10 to 15°C (50 to 60°F).
Remove all tomato debris.
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Rotate crops to deter tomato blight.
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Protect rhubarb with their leaves.
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Protect veggie beds with straw over the winter.
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Tomatoes: Since tomatoes are prone to numerous diseases and insects, it’s important to clean up ALL tomato debris that’s fallen on the ground. It’s best not to compost any tomato parts to reduce diseases. If you want to save the seeds of tasty tomatoes, click here to learn how. For more on tomatoes click on Speeding up Tomato Harvest.
Perennial Veggies: Protect asparagus, rhubarb & artichokes over the winter by covering their base their leaves, fall foliage and/or straw.
Protect Veggie Beds: Cover the soil with 3 inches of straw, fall leaves or shredded newspaper. This prevents heavy rains and snow from leaching away nutrients and eroding soil whilst preventing winter weeds at the same time. If you live in the Pacific Northwest and the weather holds out, sow a winter cover crop such as fava beans, fall rye, winter wheat and white mustard. A good source for cover crops is West Coast Seeds.
Perennial Veggies: Protect asparagus, rhubarb & artichokes over the winter by covering their base their leaves, fall foliage and/or straw.
Protect Veggie Beds: Cover the soil with 3 inches of straw, fall leaves or shredded newspaper. This prevents heavy rains and snow from leaching away nutrients and eroding soil whilst preventing winter weeds at the same time. If you live in the Pacific Northwest and the weather holds out, sow a winter cover crop such as fava beans, fall rye, winter wheat and white mustard. A good source for cover crops is West Coast Seeds.
Firmly plant bulbs, pointy end up.
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Pot up some bulbs for portable spring displays.
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Overwinter potted bulbs by burying them.
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Protect bulbs from critters with chicken wire.
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Spring Flowering Bulbs: Plant tulips, daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs in the ground and in your fall planters. Plant them in pots to liven up dull areas when spring rolls around. Set them firmly in the soil with the pointy end is up then sprinkle with cinnamon to prevent diseases as it is has fungicidal properties. To protect them from critters, planting techniques and design tips click on Spring Flowering Bulbs.
For beautiful roses, give them some TLC this fall.
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Don't remove their colourful rosehips.
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Cut back overly long rose canes.
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Protect rose crowns with a thick layer of mulch.
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Remove all diseased foliage off the plant & the ground.
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Roses: It used to be recommended to give roses a severe pruning in fall, however it makes them vulnerable to harsh winter conditions. Instead, cut back all canes by a quarter then remove dead canes and flowers. Keep any stems with rosehips to add some colour to your winter garden. Remove ALL infected, diseased foliage from the plant and the ground to prevent overwintering diseases. Cut back overly long stems to prevent the wind from catching the canes, which loosens their roots (windrock). Climbing Roses: Tie the canes of climbing roses to their supports or cut them back if you can’t reach them.
Roses Winter Protection: Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch around plants and mound a few inches of soil over the plant’s crown. Do you want more roses? Fall is the perfect time of the year to plant them and to take cuttings. For more click on Roses - Pruning Roses - Types of Roses - Easy Roses - Rose Insects & Diseases
Roses Winter Protection: Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch around plants and mound a few inches of soil over the plant’s crown. Do you want more roses? Fall is the perfect time of the year to plant them and to take cuttings. For more click on Roses - Pruning Roses - Types of Roses - Easy Roses - Rose Insects & Diseases
Collecting lettuce seeds. Click on pic for more.
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Collect seeds from seed pods when they are brown not green.
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Ponds need sorting out before winter.
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Collect Seeds: Pick seed heads, capsules and pods when they are dry and have ripened and turned brown. Don’t forget to add a label with the name of the plant, where it was collected and the date. For more click on Collecting Seeds.
Ponds: Mould and other nasties take over if leaves and other organic matter are not removed from ponds before winter. For more info click on Ponds in Winter.
Ponds: Mould and other nasties take over if leaves and other organic matter are not removed from ponds before winter. For more info click on Ponds in Winter.
Wild mushrooms are part of nature's cleaning crew.
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Don't put wild violets and other seedy weeds in the compost.
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Ground ivy and other creeping weeds should not go in the compost bin.
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Add newspapers to compost bins. Click on pic for more.
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Wild Mushrooms (Toadstools): Autumn is when all types of wild mushrooms pop up in gardens and lawns. These fungal bodies break down decaying roots and other organic materials in the soil. They are a very important part of the soil biome as their job is to convert organic matter into food for plants and other organisms. If they do appear in the lawn don’t mow them down as it spreads their spores, instead just pop them in the compost bin.
Compost: Unless your compost bin is hot and reaches 60°C (140°F) for 2 weeks don’t compost buggy and diseased plants, seedy weeds and invasive plants. Add water if the compost is dry. If it’s too wet, add dried fall leaves or torn newspaper. Turn the compost pile then finish it off with 4 to 6 inch layer of fall leaves or torn newspaper.
Compost: Unless your compost bin is hot and reaches 60°C (140°F) for 2 weeks don’t compost buggy and diseased plants, seedy weeds and invasive plants. Add water if the compost is dry. If it’s too wet, add dried fall leaves or torn newspaper. Turn the compost pile then finish it off with 4 to 6 inch layer of fall leaves or torn newspaper.
This is the only type of mouse I want in my home.
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Stink bugs like to overwinter in people's homes. Click on pic for more.
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You'll see more spiders indoors as temperatures cool.
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Bug & Rodent Free Home: Winter is on its way, so stink bugs, spiders, insects and rodents are looking for a warm, dry place to spend the winter. Deny them entrance to your home by sealing cracks in the foundation, siding, windows and doors with a high-quality silicone or silicone-latex caulk. Look for gaps around utility pipes, outlets, and behind chimneys. Replace damaged door and window screens. Ensure the weather stripping around the front and back doors are intact. Replace outdoor lighting with yellow bulbs or keep them off at night as bugs, especially stink bugs are attracted to the light. Although you might want to kill spiders, please don't as they love to feast on stink bugs! To learn more about stink bugs, click on Stink Bugs.
Forest tent caterpillars.
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Tree banding is used by many municipalities and parks.
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Tree banding is an effective way to stop insects in their tracts.
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Caterpillar Control: Stop insects in their tracks by wrapping trees with a sticky tree band. Wrap tree trunks with sticky traps to prevent forest tent caterpillars and other insects from infesting trees, fruit trees and ornamental Japanese cherry trees. These traps stop insects in their tracks preventing them from crawling up the tree. For more click here.
Anna's hummingbirds don't migrate south for the winter.
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Suet contains fat, which helps birds get through the winter.
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Keep bird feeders stocked if you are want to feed the birds during the winter.
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Hummingbirds: In the Pacific Northwest, the brave and hardy Anna’s hummingbirds don’t fly south for the winter. To help these wee birdies survive, keep feeders stocked with nectar: add 1 cup of boiling water to 1/4 cup of white granulated sugar and allow to cool. Take the time to wash and rinse feeders thoroughly before adding more. To keep feeders free of disease and from their nectar from freezing, click on Hummingbirds in Winter.
Birds: Help them get through the winter by giving them a steady supply of seed and suet. Keep feeders filled and suet cakes available throughout winter. Inspect and clean feeders often to prevent mold, mildew and bacteria.
Birds: Help them get through the winter by giving them a steady supply of seed and suet. Keep feeders filled and suet cakes available throughout winter. Inspect and clean feeders often to prevent mold, mildew and bacteria.
There are numerous ways to save fuchsias for next year.
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Coleus make good houseplants.
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There's no need to buy geraniums every year.
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Overwintering Tender Plants: If you still have geraniums, bougainvilleas, coleus, angel trumpets (Brugmansia) and other tender plants outside bring them inside asap. Don’t worry if they drop all their leaves and body parts when they are inside as they are adjusting to the new environment. Learn how to prevent insects, diseases and help them overwinter indoors click on Overwintering Tender Plants.
Play it safe and store dahlias over the winter. Vulcan dahlia pictured.
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Use a garden fork to dig up dahlia tubers.
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Store dry dahlia tubers in cardboard boxes.
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Dahlias: Although dahlias are supposed to be hardy from USDA zones 8 to 11, they sometimes don’t make it through Vancouver winters(USDA zone 8). To ensure they will make it, dig them up and store them away from frost where it’s cool, dark and dry. Either wait for frost to kill the tops then dig them up or cut them back leaving 4” to 6” of their stems then wait a week to dig them up. For more info click on Dahlias.
There's no need to dig up glads in temperate climates.
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Canna rhizomes are easy to overwinter.
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Tuberous begonias are easy to overwinter.
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Wait for begonia stems to break free before storing.
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Gladious: It’s not necessary to dig them up if you live in USDA zones 8 to 11, however in cooler climates wait for their leaves to turn yellow first before lifting them. If you can’t wait, dig them up while they are still green, being careful not to detach the stems from the corms. Hang them upside down in a frost free location until they yellow. Cut off the stems, remove the old corm underneath, then dust with cinnamon as it has fungicidal properties. Bury the corms in a cardboard box filled with vermiculite, peat moss, sawdust or clean, dry potting soil. Store in a frost free location. Avoid storing in plastic to reduce rotting.
Cannas: Dig up and store the tubers as you would dahlias or keep potted cannas in their pots and store in a cool, frost-free basement.
Tuberous begonias: After their tops are killed by frost or when they start to yellow, bring them inside. Wait for their stems to break from the tubers then store. Click on Tuberous Begonias for more.
Cannas: Dig up and store the tubers as you would dahlias or keep potted cannas in their pots and store in a cool, frost-free basement.
Tuberous begonias: After their tops are killed by frost or when they start to yellow, bring them inside. Wait for their stems to break from the tubers then store. Click on Tuberous Begonias for more.
A few pumpkins and as ornamental kale transforms a summer planter.
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A homemade fall creation include a rue plant, mums, aster, pansies, creeping jenny and cool gourds.
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This incredible planter is ready to take home from Southlands Nursery. Click on pic for more.
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Seasonal Planters: Visit your local garden centre for gorgeous planters or make your own. Select hardy plants one or two hardiness zone lower than your local zone. For example, Vancouver, BC is zone 8, so select plants hardy to zone 7 and less. Spruce up existing planters by removing any dead plants and foliage then replace winter pansies, ornamental kale, winter heather etc. Add some interesting branches, wee pumpkins, colourful gourds. Don’t forget to slip in some tulips, daffodils, grape hyacinths, crocus, snowdrops and other spring bulbs. For more click on Container Growing.
Cut off broken tree branches after a storm - or get a qualified ISA arborist to do so.
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Drain garden hoses and place a frost protector over the faucet.
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Give your lawn mower some TLC before storing it.
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Before & After a Storm: Inspect the garden for low hanging branches, ones that are overly long, broken, dead and dying. Tie unsecured vines and climbing roses. Secure garden furniture, ornaments etc., or bring them indoors. Prevent flooding by removing fallen leaves and other debris from storm drains. Don't forget to clean out the gutters, before it gets too nasty to do so. After a storm, check the garden for any damage, recheck drains, gutters and report any fallen wires to the appropriate authorities.
Garden Hoses & Tools: Once your gardening chores have ended, drain the garden hose, remove the nozzle, and store. Clean and store all your garden tools in a dry place away from the weather. Sharpen pruning equipment and spray all tools with vegetable oil, such as Pam.
Shed: Remove liquids and fertilizer including dormant oil and lime sulfur kits and store indoors. Then give the shed a good clean - argh!
Lawn Mowers: To store mowers and to prepare them for next year, remove the mower blade, clean and sharpen. Scrape off any caked-on grass on the mower deck. Remove the batteries on cordless mowers. For gas mowers, drain the gas tank, disconnect and clean.
Garden Hoses & Tools: Once your gardening chores have ended, drain the garden hose, remove the nozzle, and store. Clean and store all your garden tools in a dry place away from the weather. Sharpen pruning equipment and spray all tools with vegetable oil, such as Pam.
Shed: Remove liquids and fertilizer including dormant oil and lime sulfur kits and store indoors. Then give the shed a good clean - argh!
Lawn Mowers: To store mowers and to prepare them for next year, remove the mower blade, clean and sharpen. Scrape off any caked-on grass on the mower deck. Remove the batteries on cordless mowers. For gas mowers, drain the gas tank, disconnect and clean.
Plant of the month
Chrysanthemums
An unusual cultivar with and a daring combination of burnt orange & green.
Chrysanthemums come in many colours and flower types.
Purchase mums when they are just coming into bud.
Daisy type chrysanthemums have a central disk surrounded by ray petals (florets).
Intermediate incurve type of mum.
A welcoming chrysanthemum at the front door.
A yellow, semi-double mum with red stripes.
Chrysanthemums on display in autumn are difficult to resist.
White decorative mums make a nice display with matching pumpkins and kale.
Keep mums compact by pinching them back in spring.
Raindrops soaked orange decorative mums.
An orange spider mum.
Plant chrysanthemums in spring for more reliable fall blossoms.
Fall mums are perfect as they are grown greenhouses and are regularly pinched back.
An intermediate incurve type chrysanthemum.
Potted mums bring colour to fall gardens.
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Common Name: chrysanthemum, mums
Botanical Name: Chrysanthemum morifolium hybrids and cultivars Form: upright round or vase Family: Asteraceae Genus: Chrysanthemum Species: morifolium Plant Type: herbaceous perennial Mature Size: 2’ – 4’ x 1’- 2’ Growth: fast Origin: Asia Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9 Foliage: soft, light green, alternate, simple, lobed, serrated, pubescent Flowers: September to frost, showy, pompom or daisy type inflorescences in many colours depending on hybrid and cultivar Seeds: brown achene Stems: green, non-woody, herbaceous Exposure: full sun, in hot climates protect from afternoon sun Soil: well-drained, rots in wet soils Uses: border, massing, containers, cut flowers, houseplant, fall interest Attracts: butterflies Invasive Tendencies: none Tolerates/resistant: deer & rabbit Propagation: herbaceous cuttings Pruning: Pinch stems back mid-May to promote compact growth & more blossoms Problems: mildew, mold, aphids, root rot, aster yellows, crown gall, pythium root rot, fusarium wilt, spider mites Comments: Chrysanthemums are beloved for their spectacular profusion of colourful flowers at summer’s end. Shrinking violets, they are not. ‘Mums’ as they are more commonly called, are herbaceous perennials. They are non-woody and regrow every year. There are over twenty species of mums, however there are hundred varieties and cultivars. Chrysanthemums generally grow from two to four in height. Types of Chrysanthemums: There are 13 classes of mums depending on the type of flower and shape of the petals (florets). Irregular Incurve: giant flowers, 6 to 8”, florets curve inwards covering the flower’s centre Reflex: very large to medium, slight flat with downward curving florets resembling feathers Regular Incurve: tight balls with inwardly curving florets, 4-6” Decorative: flat that mature to rounded, 5” Intermediate Incurve: shorter floret that curl towards the centre, but they don’t cover it, 6” Pompom: tight round 1 to 4” balls Single and Semidouble: daisy-like with a single of double row of petals surrounding a single central disk Anemone: single petals, daisy-like, 4”, tubular florets clustered around a central disk Spoon: single/daisy, florets flare to a spoon shape at the ends Quill: long tubular florets with flattened or curved ends and have a spikey appearance Spider: varying long spiky florets of different lengths Brush or Thistle: upright, often multicoloured, long, thin twisting florets that go in numerous directions, unique and exotic Unclassified or Exotic: irregular florets that don’t fit in other categories Cut Flowers: Florists love chrysanthemums because they last up to 10 days in a vase. To ensure their longevity, cut their flowers when they buds start to open. Remove their lower leaves so none are submerged to prevent rotting. Change the water every two days and keep them out of direct sun and away from heaters. Planting: Chrysanthemums need good air circulation, or they will develop mildew on their leaves, stems and flowers. Space them at least 18 inches from other plants. Plant them so their crown, where the roots and stems join, sits at soil level. Chrysanthemums in Planters: Most mums are potbound and need to be repotted in a planter a couple inches wider with drainage holes. Don’t cover the holes with anything as free drainage is critical to prevent rotting. Replant in the new planter that has drainage holes, with fresh soil. Just loosen the roots a bit before firming the soil around the roots then water. Planting: Mum’s do best in rich soil that drains well. Mix in a few inches of compost when planting then follow up with a 3-inch layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant. Place in a full sun location where there is good air circulation. Pruning & Winter Care: To keep mums compact, shorter and to produce more flowers, pinch the tips of stems back when they are 3 to 4 inches tall. Continue to pinch back stems until July. For continuous blossoms, remove dead flowers as they appear. Once leaves turn yellow, remove any diseased leaves, stems and flowers but don’t cut the stems off. Instead cover the entire plant with 6” of straw or fall foliage for a winter mulch. Cut off the old stems in spring as new growth appears. Why chrysanthemums don’t last: Cold hardiness varies as it depends on the variety and cultivar. Generally, chrysanthemums are hardy from USDA zones of 5 to 9, but some cultivars and varieties are less likely to survive cold, wet weather. There are many reasons why mums fail. Planting in fall is usually not a good idea as they don’t have the time to establish their roots into their new environment before the onset of winter. Trouble is that people can’t resist them when they show up in September covered in gorgeous flowers. Be aware that those flower packed, pumped-up chrysanthemums purchased at the end of the growing season have just left the grower’s greenhouse. They have been pampered all their life so when grown outside in gardens and planters, they often fail especially when planted in the fall. This means that the best time to purchase and plant mums is in the spring. Another killer of mums and many other perennials is unseasonal warm weather in late winter that is followed by below freezing temperatures. Don’t cut them back in fall, do so in spring when new growth emerges. A winter mulch helps insulate the soil from temperature extremes. Another killer is soggy soil and too much shade. 
Chrysanthemums need full sun and soil that drains well.
A green and white intermediate incurve mum.
Chrysanthemums flower late in the year so they don't mind a bit of snow.
Cut spent flowers off just above a leaf to encourage more blossoms and to prevent diseases.
It's easy to propagate mum with herbaceous cuttings. Click on the pic to be redirected.
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THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
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for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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