Jewel-like yellow pear tomatoes with Early Girl and Big Beef.
The Garden Website for September
New: Planting Spring Flowering Bulbs
It's Time to Plant Bulbs - Renovating Garden Beds - Fall Pruning
Preparing for Winter - Winter Mulch - Sprucing Up Planters - Winter Gardening - September Vegetable Gardening
September Lawn Care - Tropical Plants & Houseplants
September Introduction - September Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog - September Garden Chores
September Garden Stars - Plant Police - September Arrangement - Plant of the Month: Devil's Walking Stick
Need Help? - Job Postings - Learn How to Prune - Garden & Plant Events - For the Tropical Gardener
It's Time to Plant Bulbs - Renovating Garden Beds - Fall Pruning
Preparing for Winter - Winter Mulch - Sprucing Up Planters - Winter Gardening - September Vegetable Gardening
September Lawn Care - Tropical Plants & Houseplants
September Introduction - September Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog - September Garden Chores
September Garden Stars - Plant Police - September Arrangement - Plant of the Month: Devil's Walking Stick
Need Help? - Job Postings - Learn How to Prune - Garden & Plant Events - For the Tropical Gardener
September Intro
A dwarf burning bush (Euonymus alatus 'Compacta') lives up to its name.
The promise of September rain and cooler weather is a delight to many gardeners, including myself as nature helps out with the watering chores – yay! It’s been a successful gardening year for many of us in the lower mainland of British Columbia, but with the change of seasons, gardens are in need of some TLC, and mine is no exception – and I’ve got lots to do - argh.
Foggy falls are typical in coastal areas of southern British Columbia, which makes the onset of autumn eerily mystical and rather magical. Although it burns off as the day warms, it coats everything with small water droplets. In those tiny beads of moisture are spores that infect susceptible plants. Combine the fog with the shorter days, longer nights and cooler temperatures, summer sun loving plants start to decline. As we enter into fall, asters and black-eyed Susan’s flower their pretty little heads off whilst trees and shrubs are busy changing colour. It’s nice to ogle nature’s artistry, but as the colours wain and the leaves fall, it means gardeners must rev up. There’s lots to do before winter begins and I remind myself the more I do now, the easier spring will be. Luckily I have a couple of months to get things done, but for those that live up north, winter arrives without much fanfare. There’s not much time to get all your ducks in a row before freezing temperatures and snow makes gardening impossible – been there and done that. Meanwhile back in the temperate of B.C., I’m hoping to finish up with the garden before Christmas! It would be nice to have clean fingernails to clutch onto a nice hot toddy or some mulled wine, but alas, there’s no guarantee! Cheers, Amanda 
This dwarf burning bush hedge goes unnoticed during the summer while it's green, but it becomes a star in fall when it turns a brilliant red.
Watering Restrictions ContinueFor Metro Vancouver, B.C.
Water restrictions continue to October 15. Special permits are given for new plantings, including lawns. For more information, click here. If you don’t live in Metro Vancouver, contact your local municipality. September PLANT COMBO
A sun-loving easy autumn combo features a dwarf aster on the left called 'Audrey'. The yellow flower in the middle is a miniature rose and to its right are autumn crocus (Colchicum).
It's Time to Plant Bulbs!
When: The ideal time to plant spring flowering bulbs is from late September through October, however you can plant until the ground freezes. With that said, the earlier they are planted the stronger and longer their roots will be plus they will have the adequate amount of chilling months. This gives them time to develop and flower properly. Purchase bulbs now for the best selection, as stores sell out quickly. Select large bulbs, as the bigger they are the bigger the blossoms. They should be free of disease and rot. To read more on where to plant, how to plant, click here.
Bulbs - Preventing Critters & Planting: It’s not unusual for critters to dig up and devour their favorite bulbs such as tulips and foxtail lilies. To protect the vulnerable bulbs plant them with daffodils, narcissus, alliums and camas as they don’t find them so tasty. Another option is to use bulb pans covered with chicken wire. They resemble shallow colanders that protect the bottom of the bulbs from animals and also allow for a quick removal of spent bulbs in spring. They are available at most garden centres and are easy to use. Just dig the hole wide enough to accommodate the pan, add some soil to keep the bulbs in place. Plant bulbs pointed side up, sprinkle with bone meal and cinnamon. Secure chicken wire over the top, then cover with soil. Top with mulch and label so you don’t forget where they are. Remove all bulb remnants, including tulips’ papery skins as it tips off the animals where the bulbs are. Blood meal is often used to deter critters but it isn’t water soluble and must be reapplied after rain. Store bought repellents work, but are also water soluble. Avoid using hot pepper products as it may cause excruciating pain to animals, including pets.
Pastel perfection at VanDusen Botanical Gardens
Pretty Bulb Displays: To extend the flowering season select bulbs for early, mid-season and late flowering. Blooming times are clearly indicated on their packages. To create cool colour combos, make sure the bulbs flower at the same time and don’t forget to check out their heights too, so tall bulbs are place at the rear. For more click here.
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Amanda's Garden Blog & New articles
A yellow Peruvian lily (Alstroemeria) flowering & apple.
Learn How to PruneWhat to prune now? How to prune? What tools to use? How far can a plant be cut back? All are great questions. Register here for Amanda to teach you all about pruning your plants in your garden at your convenience.
LIST YOUR GARDEN & PLANT RELATED EVENTS
For plant and garden club events, plant sales, garden tours, workshops and other plant related events. To post your event here click here. Need Help?
Need help figuring what to do in your garden? Make an appointment for Amanda to come to your garden to show you how to grow food, sow seeds, prune, design beds etc. Need help trying to figure out how to get the garden ready for spring? Get Amanda to teach you the ropes by making an appointment here.
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September Garden Stars
Glossy abelia, Abelia x grandiflora, broad leaf evergreen shrub, 4 to 6 ft x 5 ft, full sun to part shade. Zones 6 to 9.
Chrysanthemum, herbaceous perennial, 1-3’ x 1-2’, many flower colours and flowers from September to frost. Zones 5 to 9.
Maidenhair ornamental grass, Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’, 4-7ft x 3-6ft, copper blooms age to silver from fall thru winter, sun to part shade, attracts birds, drought tolerant. Zones 5-9
White Fountain bush clover, Lespedeza thunbergii, deciduous shrub, 4- 6’ x 4-12’, sun to part shade. Zones 4-8
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Bella Bellisima cinquefoil, Potentilla fruticosa ‘Bella Bellisima’, deciduous shrub, blooms late spring to late fall, 2-3’ tall & wide. Zones 2 to 8.
Autumn crocus, Colchicum autumnale, a corm, 6 to 10”, leaves appear in spring then disappear, only flowers appear in fall, sun to shade. Zones 4 to 8.
Ornamental kale, biennial, 1’x 15”, Zones 2-9.
Sweet autumn clematis/virgins bower, Clematis terniflora, deciduous vine, 15-30ft, fragrant, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9
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Pink Japanese anemone, Anemone tomentosa ‘Robustissima’, herbaceous perennial, 4ft, full sun part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
Black-eyed-Susan, Rudbeckia fulgida, herbaceous perennial, 2 ft, sun, part shade, Zones 4 to 9.
Michaelmas daisy, Symphyotrichum, fall aster (herbaceous perennial, 10”-6’ x 4’ depending on variety, attracts, butterflies and bees. Zones 4 to 8.
Heavenly bamboo, Nandina domestica, broadleaf evergreen, white June flowers, orange berries, red fall colour, sun to shade, 3-8’ x 2-4’. Zones 8 to 10. Potentially invasive in Midwestern USA.
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plant police
Remove leaves from peonies if they are infected with peony blotch or 'measles'.
This fungal disease caused by Graphiopsis chlorocephala (previously named Cladosporium paeoniae) is commonly known peony blotch, peony measles, red spot and leaf blotch disease. Symptoms: They first appear as reddish, brown to purplish dots on the topside of the foliage with brown spots on the underside. Stems are often streaked with purple or red. The spots first appear early in the season when flower buds appear and progresses over the season. Eventually the spots merge together and appear on buds, pets and seed heads. Although this disease is unsightly, it’s not a killer. Dwarf and red peonies are more prone to this common disease, however there are cultivars there are resistant cultivars available.
Control: Remove infected foliage as soon as they appear, but disinfect your pruners after each leaf is clipped off to reduce spreading the disease even more. Discard the infected growth and do not compost them. Prevention: Since this disease overwinters, remove all foliage from all your peonies and discard them. Make sure you disinfect your pruners between each peony. Thoroughly clean up all debris beneath and around the plants. Avoid overhead watering and keep foliage dry so apply water the base of the plant, not the top. Avoid crowding peonies as lack of air circulation also contributes to this disease. You can use a sulphur of copper fungicide to help control this peony measles, but correct maintenance is essential. Renovate Garden Beds
Before I tidied up my veggie bed.
After removing dead, dying and sickly plants, only the healthy cool season crops, Swiss chard and broccoli, remain.
Inspect & Assess: September is the perfect month to walk around and evaluate the garden. If some of your plants are not doing well it could be they are in the wrong location. Those that are weak, straggly and pale with few or no flowers maybe receiving too much shade. Ones that look fried, weak, bleached and are stunted with very few leaves maybe getting too much sun. Take note of where the sun and shade resides in the garden so you can match the plants to the conditions. And when purchasing plants, note what conditions they prefer by reading the labels.
First Step: Remove any and all plants that are dead, diseased and dying. Divide & Transplant: Move ones that are being overwhelmed by their neighbours and divide perennials that are taking over too much real-estate such as Solomon’s seal, irises and daylilies. Divide Perennials: Cut back plants to their base, then dig them up to divide them or slice off sections – roots and all. Use a sharp shovel, or two garden forks back to back and pry the roots apart. Plant them elsewhere in the garden, give them away or pot them up to sell in spring. Cut Back Perennials: Once they start to decline, cut them back to 2 to 3 inches above the ground. Leaving that extra bit of stem to help protect their crowns (where stems and roots join) and provide habitat for beneficial insects, especially those with hollow stems. Too Many Plants: When there are too many plants in a bed, don’t just think of removing plants or drastically cutting them back, maybe the bed is too small. Anything less than 3 feet will soon be overflowing. Of course height is important too, but don’t forget that all plants grow in girth as they age. Weeds: Hand weeding is an efficient and instant method of removing volunteer plants. Get all their roots and seed heads so they don’t reseed themselves. Bindweed (wild morning glory), buttercups, creeping Charlie and other weeds that spread through runners are difficult to remove, as many a gardener will attest to. The worst are horsetails, as their runners are like black threads that delve deep into the soil. Horsetail and bindweed are easily spread by digging them up, so instead just keep pulling them up as soon as they pop out of the ground. It works, but you have to be consistent. Read more here. Weeding is much easier when the soil is moist so either water or wait until after a good downpour. Add Fall Colour: Once the garden has been tidied consider adding some plants for fall colour. Don’t delay to take nurseries up on their fall sales. They will be displaying the stars of the season from flowers, vines, trees and shrubs. Fallen Leaves: As trees and shrubs lose their foliage, allow nature’s colourful confetti to blanket the ground. Rake them off the lawn or bag them while mowing, then empty the shredded leaves onto the beds. A nice thick 3 inch layer works to protect the ground from fluctuating temperatures, erosion, weeds - and as an added benefit, it feeds the soil, which in turn feeds the plants. This is why it is so important to leave organic debris on garden beds (unless it is diseased), as this interferes with the soil food web. You’re just making more work for yourself if you remove it, so let it be. For more on mulch click here. 
Fall foliage provides a protective and nutritious blanket. Pile on the leaves deeply on top of the soil and around plants so they don't blow away. These golden leaves are from a ginkgo tree.
Lawn Care for September
Fall is great time to sow some grass seed and renovate lawns.
September is the ideal time to start a new lawn and to renovate an existing one. It’s a much better time than spring because the soil is warm, which promotes faster seed germination and stimulates root growth. Fall rains also keep the soil moist and the cool winter weather helps establish plants even further. Click here for the pages on lawn care.
Apply dolopril lime if you didn't do so in spring. It will help the grass but will deter moss and dandelions.
Fall Pruning
These poor plants have been cut back way too far at the wrong time of year into unnatural shapes.
Prune lightly: Severe pruning in fall is not recommended. Who knows what winter will bring as severe temperatures, heavy snow coupled with freezing and thawing during the shoulder seasons, takes their toll on plants. Cutting off too much, making them susceptible to winter damage and winter kill.
What to remove:
Shorten overly long stems by cutting back to a lower side branch.
Preparing for Winter
Plants know winter is coming. Short days and cooler temperatures especially at night, signals them to stop growing. They shift their efforts to gather the food the foliage has produced and stores them in their roots.
Winter Mulch
A thick layer of fall foliage protects soil from erosion, stops weeds and insulates the soil.
Where winters are cold, long and where temperatures fluctuate, a winter mulch can do wonders to save susceptible plants, especially newly planted ones. It’s not just cold that kills plants, it’s the heaving of the soil as it expands and contracts that dislodges roots. A 3 inch layer of an organic mulch works to insulate the soil reducing temperature fluctuations. Instead of laying on top of the soil like a regular mulch does, it covers a plant’s crown (where the roots meet the stem). Pile at least 4 inches of leaves or another organic mulch over top of plants or you can even use soil – just don’t dig the soil from around the plant as that exposes their roots. In spring, once plants start to grow, remove the mulch incrementally as it thaws.
Sprucing up Planters
A rue plant and creeping jenny planter from summer is transformed after adding fall plants: purple dwarf asters, yellow mums, ornamental kale, a gourd and winter pansies.
Planters that were once brimming with petunias, impatiens and other annuals are looking pretty sad now. You have the option of discarding the whole shebang, or you can spruce them up easily for some seasonal colour.
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September Garden ChoresPlease note that coloured text are linked to another page on this website or another website. Most of the pictures are also linked and will redirect you if you click on them.
It's a great time to plant roses, trees, shrubs and vines.
Plant: Now through to end of November, is the perfect time to plant trees, shrubs, perennial vines, fruits and perennials. Check with local plant nurseries for sale and falls’ favorite flora.
Perennials: Cut them back to a few inches above the ground once they begin to die back. Divide spring flowering perennials: coral bells (Heuchera), lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria), primrose, violets, lenten rose (Helleborus), bugloss (Brunnera), peonies. Spring bulbs: Plant daffodils, tulips, hyacinths etc. as soon as possible for best growth and selection. For more click here. Deadhead: Keep removing dead flowers from perennials and annuals to further their blooming. Beds & Borders: Cut back perennials, remove spent annuals and any diseased or buggy plants. Don’t remove fallen leaves and other plant debris on top of the soil unless it is diseased or buggy. To top up mulch on beds use fallen leaves as they are beneficial and full of nutrients. Lawns: Mow often and mow high at 2.5 to 3 inches, apply Dolopril lime, corn gluten to control germinating seeds (don’t use if seeding lawn), repair patchy lawns, and plant new lawns with sod or seed. Veggie Gardens: Don’t leave the ground bare for winter after harvesting your veggies, sow a green manure (cover crop) such as crimson clover or annual rye. Or mulch bare beds with heaps of fallen leaves. Thick layers quickly pack down but light layers easily blow away, so add as much as you can. For more on cover crops click here. Potatoes: Harvest potatoes, but let them dry in a cool, dark area for a couple of days before storing. For more click here. Winter Veggies: Sow seeds or purchase starter plants of kale, broccoli, cabbage, peas, Brussel sprouts and other cool season crops. For more on winter veggies click here. 
Cut back raspberry canes that fruited this year to their base.
Cuttings: Take semi-hardwood cuttings from trees, shrubs and vines. For more click here.
Containers: Fix up tired planters by removing spent plants and adding new ones with some fresh compost. Click here for more. Winterize: Apply a winterizer fertilizer (high potash), to newly planted plants, hungry and sickly plants. For more on feeding plants click here. Compost: Turn weekly and water when needed. Avoid adding plants that have gone to seed, are infested with bugs and/or diseases. For the carbon/brown layer add a few inches of fallen fall foliage. Keep extra for future use. Click here for more on composting. 
Dahlias: Keep dead-heading until frost kills their tops, then dig them up and store in a frost free place.Prune: Prune fall flowering plants if needed. It’s too late to prune spring flowering shrubs and trees.
Hydrangeas: Remove flowers just above a couple of plump green buds near the top of the stems. Cut off really old branches, spindly and dead one at their base
Weed: Don’t add seedy weeds into the compost as it probably will not be hot enough to kill them. Weed Seeds: Apply corn gluten to kill winter weeds that germinate in fall such as shepherd’s purse and chickweed. Do not apply where you have sown desirable seed. 
Seed Collecting: Collect sweet pea seeds and other desirable plants when seed pods turn brown. Click on the picture for more info.
Cold frames, Greenhouses: Cleanout and disinfect all flat surfaces, especially if diseases and insects were present.
Need fall colour? Plant chrysanthemums, ornamental kale, Japanese maples, Virginia and Boston creeper (Parthenocissus), burning bush (Euonymus alatus) and witch hazel (Hamamelis). Your local nursery will have oodles of options to brighten your garden. Pictures: Take pictures of the garden and make entries into your garden journal regarding successes and any learning experiences, while it’s still fresh in your head. 
Disinfect: Use bleach, soap & water to sterilize pots, starter trays, cell packs, flats and drainage trays so they are ready for spring.
winter Gardening
These baby pac choi plants are ready to plant in the garden.
If you want fresh produce throughout the fall and into winter, you have a small window of opportunity. Sow seeds of peas, Asian greens, arugula, beets, lettuce, pac and boc choi, radish, spinach and turnips. If you have started seeds indoors, plant them outside when they have two to three sets of leaves. Don’t forget to harden them off first to acclimatize them to the outdoors. To speed up the process, just purchase starter plants at your local plant nursery. If you don’t have a space in your garden, use planters. There’s nothing nicer than fresh produce you’ve grown yourself. For more click here.
September Vegetable Gardening
Sweet 100's tomatoes are as sweet as candy!
Harvesting: Keep on harvesting and discard any buggy or diseased produce, plants and plant parts. This prevents diseases and insects from overwintering to re-infest next year’s crops. Removing rotting fruit, including tomatoes also doesn’t tempt wildlife into the garden. It’s not a good idea to compost infected plants unless you have a hot compost, 50 to 66° Celsius (122°-155°F) for a few days. For more on composting click here.
Cool Crops: Clean up your kale, chard, broccoli and other cool crops by removing yellow leaves and such. For more information on the best stage to harvest specific crops, click here. Cover Crops: Once beds are cleaned up, don’t leave them naked. If you are not using your veggie beds for growing hardy, cool season crops, it’s best not to leave the ground bare for winter. Cover with a thick layer of mulch or sow a green manure (cover crop) such as crimson clover or annual rye. Covering the soil reduces soil erosion from winter rains and prevents weeds. Cover crops also has the added benefit of building soil once the crop is turned under in spring. For more info on cover crops, click here. 
Crimson clover protects the soil in winter and when it is dug under in spring, it builds soil.
Tropicals & Houseplants:
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Plant of the month
Devil's Walking Stick, Aralia spinosa
A group planting of Aralia spinosa put on their fall colours at Hoyt Arboretum, Portland, Oregon.
Black berries held on pink spheres are highly ornamental and food for wildlife.
Small white flowers are held aloft in large clusters up to 2 feet in summer.
Their compound leaves are comprised of many little dainty leaflets.
Berries become show-stoppers as they are held in huge pink clusters.
Horizontal furrows on stems are from where the leaves fell off from previous seasons.
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Common Name: Devil’s Walking Stick
Botanical Name: Aralia spinosa Form: upright vase Family: Araliaceae Genus: Aralia Species: spinosa Plant Type: deciduous shrub or small tree Mature Size: 10 to 25 feet x 6 to 10 feet, to 35’ if grown as a tree Growth: slow to moderate Origin: Missouri, United States Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9 Foliage: green, compound, bipinnate to tripinnate, 2-5ft x 2-4ft, in varying shades of yellow, purple and pink. Flowers: 1/8”, 5 petals, white, showy clusters 24 inches long in July to August Fruit: round purple-black berries in clusters that ripen in late August to October Stems: fat, sharp spines on its leaf stalks, stems and branches, horizontal furrowed leaf scars Exposure: full sun to part shade Soil: prefers moist, tolerates drought, clay soils and black walnut Uses: large borders, attracts birds & wildlife, woodland, native gardens, dear resistant Propagation: easily grown from seeds, suckers or root cuttings Pruning: shorten branches in early spring or after blooming Problems: thorns, suckers form colonies and also spread by seeds, handling roots and bark may cause allergic skin reaction Comments: This striking Missouri native gets its two common names, Devil’s Walking Stick and Hercules Club, from the fat, sharp spines that grow along its branches, stems and leaf stalks. Their huge 2 to 4 foot lacy leaves are comprised of many small leaflets. They are perched atop unbranched club-like stems creating an umbrella type canopy. Their unique stems are ringed with furrowed leaf scars, which are quite noticeable. In summer, tiny white flowers, which are held in large panicles sprout from the top of the stems. Bees, butterflies and other pollinators just love the flowers, whilst birds and wildlife love the fruit. Their fruit are very attractive; they look like black jewels adorning pink spherical crowns. The Devil’s Walking Stick is very adaptable and is tolerant of pollution, soil, black walnut trees and drought. Plant in a sheltered location to protect their large two-foot foliage. Since they sucker and seed themselves easily, give them lots of space. 
Thorns on the stems are the reason why its called a Devil's Walking Stick.
Fall colours range from gentle yellow, soft orange and coral pink.
Summer foliage is deep green and contrasts nicely with the black drupes.
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Landscape Job Postings
For landscapers looking for work and landscape companies looking to hire.
If you are looking for work or if you wish to post a position please go to Job Postings. Landscapers, post your contact info here.
If you are looking for work or if you wish to post a position please go to Job Postings. Landscapers, post your contact info here.
THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
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Container Growing 101Monthly Flower Arrangements
Growing Roses Introduction Mulching & Types Introduction |
for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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