The Fairy is a stunning polyantha rose.
June Garden Chores
Shirley poppies.
In This Issue
Roses come in to flower this month.
Plant of the Month: Smokebush - June Garden Chores - June Garden Stars
June's Floral Arrangement - Visit Your Garden - Planting - Get Ready for Summer - Hot Wilt
Watering Tips - Drought Gardening - Lawns - Nix the Lawn - What to Prune in June
Pruning Cedars & Conifers - Pruning Wisteria & Grapes - Summer Fruit Pruning
In the Veggie Garden - Raspberries & Cane Fruit - Protecting Fruit
Buggy Crops - Earwigs - Tomato Tips - Rockin' the Roses - Powdery Mildew
Peony & Ants - Weeds, The Unwanted - Compost
Hanging Baskets & Planters - Butterflies & Pollinators
June's Floral Arrangement - Visit Your Garden - Planting - Get Ready for Summer - Hot Wilt
Watering Tips - Drought Gardening - Lawns - Nix the Lawn - What to Prune in June
Pruning Cedars & Conifers - Pruning Wisteria & Grapes - Summer Fruit Pruning
In the Veggie Garden - Raspberries & Cane Fruit - Protecting Fruit
Buggy Crops - Earwigs - Tomato Tips - Rockin' the Roses - Powdery Mildew
Peony & Ants - Weeds, The Unwanted - Compost
Hanging Baskets & Planters - Butterflies & Pollinators
Fellow Gardeners..
Fountains might just be out of commission this summer.
Dear Fellow Gardeners,
Local gardeners bemoan the water restrictions that come into effect every summer in Metro Vancouver, and rightfully so. In the past there was no need to restrict water usage as rainy summers were par for the course, however, in 1992 that changed. Due to the increased population and lack of precipitation, water restrictions were first introduced and have been enacted every summer without fail. Many forces were at play to warrant going into Stage 2 instead of the usual Stage 1. Looks like we may step it up to Stage 3 this month. It’s not just the annual summer drought and the ever expanding population that’s the cause, no, it’s due to replace the existing water main with a new tunnel through Stanley Park. Apparently, the city is worried that there won’t be enough drinking water during this process, so they might, just might enact Stage 3 this month. Oh, woe is me and my garden and the creatures within! Crossing fingers that this is only temporary and we can return to Stage 2 soon. So, what does Stage 3 entail? As with Stage 2, watering lawns is prohibited. Gardens, trees & shrubs can be hand-watered, or use drip irrigation. When handwatering, only nozzles with a shut off are permitted. Soaker hoses and sprinklers are not allowed. Filling and topping up ponds, fountains, pools and waterfalls are no longer permitted. Be prepared for seeing dirty vehicles as washing them is also prohibited except for mirrors, lights, windows, license plates and boat engines. Pressure washing is allowed only to prepare a surface for painting, as well as for health and safety reasons. If we do go to Stage 3, I’ll be showering with a bucket to collect the water. I’ll also be saving the water from cooking if I don’t add salt to it. Veggie, pasta and rice water has lots of nutrients too so it’s a good thing. But alas, it is going to be a pain in the aspidistra trying to keep everything alive. I might just have to drop to my knees and beg the rain not to abandon us this summer, and the sun not to shine too brightly. Sorry sun-lovers. But let’s not forget that it’s June and gardens comes alive with floral fragrances, gorgeous roses and dazzling flowers. Enjoy your summer garden and have fun in the sun. Cheers, Amanda June's Plant of the Month
Smokebush
The Royal Purple smokebush is a small deciduous tree or shrub. Click on the pic to be redirected.
June's Arrangement
June 2025
June flowers include peonies and hebes. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements
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Garden Consultation Gift Cards
Get the perfect gift for gardeners and non-gardeners alike with a gift certificate for a personal garden consultation. In the two-hour consultation their gardening questions are answered such as how to lower maintenance, landscape design, trouble shooting, plant ID, lawn care, veggie gardening and other garden related issues. A $200.00 value. Serving Metro Vancouver. Click here to fill out the form.
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Water Restrictions
Water restrictions in Metro Vancouver continues until mid October.
Due to the lack of rain and snow, Metro Vancouver is adopting Stage 2 water restrictions.
Lawn watering is prohibited. Trees, shrubs, and flowers can be watered if using an automatic or manual sprinkler any day from 5 am and 9 am, or any time by hand or using drip irrigation. Hoses must have an automatic shut-off. Vegetable gardens can be watered any time. For more details click on Water Restrictions. Amanda's YouTube Channel
Click on the pic to be redirected.
Check out my YouTube Channel for garden videos. Includes instructional videos and some pretty plant ones too as I just can't resist.
A Book For the tropics
Delve into the world of tropical shrubs with the reference book Ornamental Tropical Shrubs. It features beautiful colour pictures for each plant as well as point form information on suitable growing conditions and all their features. Available at Amazon.ca and Amazon.com.
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June Garden Stars
Rubidor weigela, Weigela florida 'Rubidor', deciduous shrub, 5' - 8' x 7'-9', sun, butterflies, hummingbirds. Zones 4 to 8. Click on pic for more.
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‘Black Lace’ elderberry, Sambucus nigra ‘Eva’, deciduous shrub, 6’-8’ x 6’, black edible berries, sun/part shade. Zones 4 to 7.
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Mountain laurel, Kalmia latifolia, broadleaf evergreen, 5’ to 15’, part shade. Zones 4 to 9.
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Patty's Purple hebe, H. buxifolia 'Patty's Purple', broadleaf evergreen shrub, sun, 2'-3' x 1-2'. Zones 8 to 10.
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Oriental poppy, Papaver orientale, herbaceous perennial, 15” – 3’ x 1’ -2’, sun. Zones 3 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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Stella D’Oro daylily, Hemerocallis 'Stella de Oro', herbaceous perennial, 10”-12” tall & wide, sun, part shade. Zones 2 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Japanese spirea, Spiraea japonica, deciduous shrub, 3-4’ tall and wide, sun. Zones 4 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Gladiator Flowering Onion, Allium 'Gladiator', fragrant, flowering bulb, full sun, flower stems up to 44 inches, Zones 4 to 8.
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Mont Rose Deutzia, D. x hybrida 'Mont Rose', deciduous shrub, 3 to 4 ft tall & wide, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 8.
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Lupins, Lupinus spp., herbaceous perennial, 3’ – 4’ x 1’ – 1.5’, May - July, sun. Zones 4 to 8
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Nelly Moser clematis, deciduous vine, 6' to 8’, sun, part shade. Zone 4 to 8. Click on pic for more.
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Delphiniums, herbaceous perennial, 4’-6’ x 2’-3’, June to July, sun. Zones 3 to 7. Click on pic for more.
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Astilbes, herbaceous perennials, 6in to 4ft, partial shade to shade & moist soils. Zones 3 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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Red Hot Poker, Kniphofia uvaria, herbaceous perennial, 3'-4' x 2'-3', sun. Zones 5 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
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English lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, semi-evergreen sub-shrub, fragrant, June, July, sun, 1 to 3’. Zones 5 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
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Masterwort, Astrantia major, herbaceous perennial, partial shade, moist soil 1’-2’ x 1’-1.5’. Zones 4 to 7.
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Japanese Stewartia, Stewartia pseudocamellia, deciduous tree, 20 - 40' x 10 - 25', sun, part shade. Zones 5-8. Click on the pic for more.
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Calla lily, Zantedeschia, herbacous rhizomatous perennial, 1' to 3', sun to partial shade. Zones 8 to 10. Click on pic for more.
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Mandarin honeysuckle, Lonicera 'Mandarin', deciduous vine to 5 feet, May - June fragrant flowers, sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 9.
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Portuguese Cherry Laurel, Prunus lusitanica, broadleaf evergreen, 10’– 20’ x 15’ – 20’, sun, part shade. Zones 4 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Lady's Mantle, Alchemilla mollis, herbaceous perennial, prefers moist shade, 12"-18" x 18"-2'. Zones 2 to 3.
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Blue Waterfall Serbian bellflower, Campanula poscharskyana 'Camgood', herbaceous perennial, 8” x 4’, sun/part sun. Zones 4 to 7.
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Betty Corning Clematis, herbaceous vine, 6’, sun to part shade, fragrant. Zones 4 to 9.
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Blue globe thistle, Echinops bannaticus, herbaceous perennial, 2-4’ x 1–2’, sun. Zones 3 to 8.
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June Garden Chores
Click on the coloured links to be redirected.
Visit Your Garden
There's lots of goings on in the garden this month.
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Bowl of Beauty peony is framed by a red climbing rose called Dortmund.
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Summer is here! Don’t neglect your garden as it needs you more than ever now. Keep an eye on newly planted plants to make sure they are not too dry nor too wet. If recently plants are wilting despite adequate soil moisture make sure they have been planted correctly. When plants wilt in the heat of the sun, shade them with an umbrella or a trellis covered with a sheet. Here’s more on Garden Inspections.
Planting
Finish planting.
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Water all newly planted plants by hand.
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A sad newly planted tree needs help.
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A tree guard strangles a badly planted tree.
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If you still have plants to get into the ground do so asap as summer is officially here. If you must plant, do so at the end of the day or when it’s cloudy. When planting, slightly loosen roots and firm the soil around the roots to remove any air pockets. Hand water thoroughly after planting, then water every other day until new growth sprouts. Keep an eye on your new babies and don’t go on vacation. For more on planting click on Planting Know-How.
Get Ready for Summer
Organic mulch keeps soil moist and cool.
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Purchase mulch at garden centres & hardware stores.
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Rock mulch lack the benefits of an organic mulch.
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There are numerous ways to soften summer’s extreme conditions, but one of the most effective ways is to protect the ground from the elements. Lay a 3 inch layer of mulch on top of the soil and between plants to keep the ground cooler and wetter. Avoid rock mulches. They get too hot in summer, they don't retain soil moisture, they lack nutrients and weeds grow between the rocks – which are difficult and painful to remove. To learn more about mulch click on Mulch & Mulching.
If you don’t like the look of mulch, use ground covers as they also protect the soil from the elements. Use sedum/stonecrop, creeping thyme and moss phlox for sunny locations. Japanese spurge, London Pride (Saxifraga stolonifera), lilyturf (Liriope muscari) for shady spots. For more information click on Living Mulches & Groundcovers.
If you don’t like the look of mulch, use ground covers as they also protect the soil from the elements. Use sedum/stonecrop, creeping thyme and moss phlox for sunny locations. Japanese spurge, London Pride (Saxifraga stolonifera), lilyturf (Liriope muscari) for shady spots. For more information click on Living Mulches & Groundcovers.
Hot Wilt
Curled, brown foliage is a symptom of too much sun.
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Shade suffering plants with a brolly.
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A dollar store trellis draped with a cloth shades a tender hosta.
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A bamboo screen is effective.
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Even sun loving plants wilt under the intense rays of the summer’s sun. A temporary solution is to shade the plant with an umbrella or secure a tablecloth or sheet to some supports. Protect them with handle when they are blasted in full summer sun. For a permanent solution, place a screen or a taller plant on the south or west side of the flagging plant to block the sun.
Watering Tips & Techniques
Wilting callas need a good soaking.
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A timer makes watering easy.
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The vegetable garden is exempt from water restrictions.
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Water trees along their dripline not against their trunk.
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Water city trees on & around your property.
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Water Restrictions: Metro Vancouver has already taken the step to start the summer off with Stage 2 water restrictions. Lawn watering is prohibited, however, shrubs, and flowers can be watered with an automatic or manual sprinkler any day from 5 am and 9 am, or any time by hand or using drip irrigation. Vegetable gardens can be watered any time.
Water is such a precious commodity this time of year, so watering correctly is imperative. To water garden beds, many people use soaker hoses and drip systems, which are often inadequate during the summer unless add numerous hoses together. When additional water is needed, set up sprinklers & put them on a timer in accordance with local water restrictions. Set the timer for an hour for each zone/area. To learn how to water more efficiently and effectively click on Watering Tips & Techniques,
Water is such a precious commodity this time of year, so watering correctly is imperative. To water garden beds, many people use soaker hoses and drip systems, which are often inadequate during the summer unless add numerous hoses together. When additional water is needed, set up sprinklers & put them on a timer in accordance with local water restrictions. Set the timer for an hour for each zone/area. To learn how to water more efficiently and effectively click on Watering Tips & Techniques,
Give gardens deep long soaks.
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Hand watering is a necessity during the summer.
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Water everything including your veggies, bedding plants (annuals), perennials, shrubs, and vines Don’t forget your to water your hedges, trees and city trees outside of your property line. When watering, give everything a good long soak along the dripline. That’s were a plant’s canopy ends and where their feeder roots are. Watering tree trunks is a waste of water. Allow the water to puddle a few times to make sure it’s adequately watered.
Hand watering is often needed to revive wilting plants. Give them a good soaking as too little water leads to shallow roots and added watering. Water deeply so it puddles a few times. Apply it to the entire area, not just the plant as dry soil sucks the moisture away from the plant.
Hand watering is often needed to revive wilting plants. Give them a good soaking as too little water leads to shallow roots and added watering. Water deeply so it puddles a few times. Apply it to the entire area, not just the plant as dry soil sucks the moisture away from the plant.
Drought Gardening
Russian sage, Perovskia atriplicifolia, is drought tolerant.
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Don't waste your money on landscape fabric.
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The umbrella-like canopy of a Solomon's Seal, shades a hosta.
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There are many techniques to conserve moisture in the landscape. There are also many misconceptions on how to do it. It’s important to work with nature by encouraging a sustainable and more self-reliant garden. To learn the smart way to garden with less water click on Drought Gardening.
Lawns
Don't cut the lawn too short.
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Measure the mowing height.
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Keep clippings on the lawn as long as they don't clump.
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Lawns need only an inch of water a week, however due to the current Metro Vancouver water restrictions, watering the lawn is not allowed. To help lawns make it through the summer without additional water, pray for rain and don’t cut the grass any shorter than 2.5 inches, preferably 3 inches. The longer blades result in longer roots that reach down to the cooler and wetter soil below. The longer grass blades also deter the adults of lawn grubs from laying their eggs in the soil. Avoid fertilizing, unless a good downpour of rain is predicted. This is not the time to install new lawns; wait until autumn when the rain returns and the temperatures are cooler. For more click on Lawn Reno, Seed & Sod - Lawn Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Lawn Grub Control
A meadow of native plants, Sea Blush & Camas at UBC.
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A shade garden replaces a struggling lawn.
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Nix the Lawn: With summer water restrictions a healthy lawn is going to difficult to maintain. There are numerous options to replace a lawn from turning it into a garden, a meadow, pave it over for a courtyard or plant ground covers. For more options click on Lawn Alternatives.
What to Prune in June
To keep heathers compact, cut off their spent blossoms.
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It's too late to prune hydrangeas.
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Prune rose of sharon after flowering in autumn to spring.
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Cut stems just above a bud/node.
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Shorten stems by cutting just above a bud, leaf (node).
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Pruning Shrubs: The correct way to prune a shrub is not just lopping it’s top off, they also need to be thinned. Remove all spindly, weak, old, diseased and dead stems at their base as well as any branches that grow towards the centre of the plant. To shorten shrub branches, cut just above a side branch or a bud (node). Remove no more than 1/3 of overall growth because cutting too much off sets plants back. Avoid pruning hydrangeas, rose of sharon, buddleias, roses and other plants that have yet to blossom. Give them a drink after surgery so they will recover faster.
Cut off suckers and the stub they arise from.
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The tree on the right has been badly pruned.
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Cut off branches at the bark ridge.
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Shorten stems by cutting just above a side branch.
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Ugly suckers replaced the branches of this topped tree.
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Pruning Trees: Start off by removing dead branches, broken ones and any diseased growth. Pull or cut off all the suckers and watersprouts so they don’t take over the plant. Cut back or remove branches that are in the way of walking and overtaking other plants. To shorten branches, cut just above a side branch. Please, please, please, don't cut back all the branches from a tree. ‘Topping' and 'hat-racking' results in an ugly tree as erect, straight upright suckers quickly replace the beautiful branches. Suckers, unlike branches, are not attached to the tree’s core, which makes them unsafe as they are prone to break off.
To shorten stems, cut just above a side branch.
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Pinch pine candles in half to keep branches short.
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Pruning Cedars & Other Conifers: Generally, it’s not a good idea to prune conifers as they don’t have the ability to regrow like other plants. If you need to a bit of surgery, prune or shear your cedar hedges when the new growth turns a dark green. Don’t cut them back to far beyond the foliage as they will not regrow. Pinch pine tree ‘candles’ in half to keep branches from growing. Do NOT prune the top from pines, firs, cedars, spruce and arborvitaes trees.
Pruning Wisterias & Grapes
Prune wisterias after the finish flowering.
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Cut back wisteria's side stems back to 2 to 4 buds to promote more flowers.
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Thin grape clusters for larger grapes.
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To encourage a plentiful crop of grapes and oodles of wisteria blossoms, cut back all the their side shoots from the main stems to 2 to 4 buds. These shortened stubby stems will become flowering spurs on wisterias and fruiting spurs on grapes in a couple of years. Repeat this process again in winter. For larger grapes, thin the grape clusters so so they are a foot apart. For more click on Pruning Grapes and Wisterias.
Summer Fruit Pruning
Fruit trees abort extra fruit in June.
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An apple's fruiting spur produces flowers and fruit.
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Cut back apple stems to a couple of buds.
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Thin fruit so they don't touch.
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Fruit trees benefit greatly from some judicious pruning during the summer. It redirects growth for better fruit production while removing dead, diseased, spindly, broken branches, suckers and watersprouts. For overly long branches that sag under the weight of the fruit, either shorten the stems by cutting them back to a side branch or just above a bud (node) or remove the entire branch just above the branch collar as indicated in the picture above.
Thinning fruit: It’s natural for fruit trees to abort some of their extra fruit in June so don’t panic when that happens. This process is referred to as ‘June Drop’, and although many fruit are aborted, it’s often not enough to ensure a healthy crop. Crowded fruit clusters breeds diseases and weighs down branches, encourages insects and delays ripening. Snip off any deformed, blemished, sickly and tiny fruit then follow up with thinning fruit clusters so they don’t touch. Apples: Remove any of the fruit that touch each other and thin to only two fruit per cluster. Plums leave one fruit every 2 -3” or a pair of fruit every 6 inches. Thin pears to 4 to 6” apart, thin peaches and nectarines to one fruit every 4”.
Thinning fruit: It’s natural for fruit trees to abort some of their extra fruit in June so don’t panic when that happens. This process is referred to as ‘June Drop’, and although many fruit are aborted, it’s often not enough to ensure a healthy crop. Crowded fruit clusters breeds diseases and weighs down branches, encourages insects and delays ripening. Snip off any deformed, blemished, sickly and tiny fruit then follow up with thinning fruit clusters so they don’t touch. Apples: Remove any of the fruit that touch each other and thin to only two fruit per cluster. Plums leave one fruit every 2 -3” or a pair of fruit every 6 inches. Thin pears to 4 to 6” apart, thin peaches and nectarines to one fruit every 4”.
Prune peach trees after harvesting.
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Train raspberries for easy harvesting and maintenance.
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Protect fruit with mesh, not netting.
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Use foil ribbons to deter birds & critters.
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Pruning Stone Fruit Trees
Wait to prune cherry trees, peaches, apricots and other stone fruit until after the fruits are harvested in late summer to reduce infection from bacterial canker. In the meantime, remove all disease, broken, dead and damaged branches.
Raspberries & Cane Fruit
Train new canes of raspberries, blackberries and other cane fruit horizontally along galvanized wire. Cover ripening berries with row covers or mesh to protect them from animals. Inspect wilting canes for raspberry cane borers by cutting off stems 6” past the wilted portion. Inspect the removed stem and discard the bug. To learn more about how to train, prune and grow raspberries, click here.
Protect Fruit
Keep birds, squirrels and other critters from devouring your fruit with shiny tape, whirligigs, fake owls, or rubber snakes. Avoid netting as birds get caught and can’t escape. Use a mesh or organza to keep your fruit safe without harming wildlife.
Wait to prune cherry trees, peaches, apricots and other stone fruit until after the fruits are harvested in late summer to reduce infection from bacterial canker. In the meantime, remove all disease, broken, dead and damaged branches.
Raspberries & Cane Fruit
Train new canes of raspberries, blackberries and other cane fruit horizontally along galvanized wire. Cover ripening berries with row covers or mesh to protect them from animals. Inspect wilting canes for raspberry cane borers by cutting off stems 6” past the wilted portion. Inspect the removed stem and discard the bug. To learn more about how to train, prune and grow raspberries, click here.
Protect Fruit
Keep birds, squirrels and other critters from devouring your fruit with shiny tape, whirligigs, fake owls, or rubber snakes. Avoid netting as birds get caught and can’t escape. Use a mesh or organza to keep your fruit safe without harming wildlife.
In the Veggie Garden
Cut off broccoli heads, but leave the plant.
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New broccoli heads continue to form after harvesting.
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Remove garlic scapes when they are small.
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Hill soil around potatoes as they grow.
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Harvest new potatoes when they flower.
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Harvest often and preferably in the morning.
Summer veggie gardening entails harvesting, watering, weeding, propping up plants, mulching, fertilizing, de-bugging and controlling diseases. Harvest often, preferably in the morning after the dew has evaporated as touching wet plants spreads diseases. Remove all dead, dying and diseased plant parts to reduce infection. Snip off garlic and onion flowers and stop watering to allow the bulbs to form. Keep piling up the soil around potatoes as they grow.Cut off broccoli heads and leave the rest of the plant for new heads to grow. Here's more on growing veggies: Growing Food - Crop Rotation, Succession & Companion Planting - Harvesting
Buggy Crops
Use thuricide to control caterpillars.
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Caterpillars love to feast on many types of crops.
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Floating row covers keep bugs off veggie plants.
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Crops fall prey to many predators including slugs, cutworms, caterpillars, birds and animals. Use thuricide (Bt, Bacillus thuringiensis) to control caterpillars. However, to prevent crops from insects, cover them with floating row covers or a cloche. A thick layer of straw mulch deters animals from digging up garlic, beets, carrots and other root crops. To stop birds from eating fruit and veggies, place a few whirlygigs around the garden and hang aluminium tape or CD’s from tree and shrub branches.
Use mineral oil to prevent corn earworm.
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Japanese beetle damage on a potato leaf.
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A June bug. Click on a pic for more.
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Stink bugs are more prominent in dry weather.
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Earwigs: These shiny insects feed on flowers, stems and foliage leaving them tattered and torn. Create a trap by mixing 1 part soy sauce with 1 part olive oil in a small plastic lidded tub. Make 3 or 4 holes an inch from the rim around the container large enough for the earwigs to enter. Bury the container up to the holes. Check every few days and discard any victims and replace the solution when necessary.
Corn Earworms: To prevent corn earworms from infesting ears of corn, place a couple of drops of mineral oil on the silks of each corn cob within a week of when the cobs develop.
Stink Bugs: These shield shaped insects emerge in summer and suck the sap out of flowers, fruits and foliage making crops inedible. To learn how to control them click on Stink Bugs.
Japanese Beetles: Many plants, including potatoes and apple trees are favoured by this destructive pest that skeletonizes leaves. To learn more, click on Japanese Beetles.
Corn Earworms: To prevent corn earworms from infesting ears of corn, place a couple of drops of mineral oil on the silks of each corn cob within a week of when the cobs develop.
Stink Bugs: These shield shaped insects emerge in summer and suck the sap out of flowers, fruits and foliage making crops inedible. To learn how to control them click on Stink Bugs.
Japanese Beetles: Many plants, including potatoes and apple trees are favoured by this destructive pest that skeletonizes leaves. To learn more, click on Japanese Beetles.
Tomato Tips
Don't wait to remove tomato suckers.
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Space plants at least 2' apart.
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Infrequent watering and lack of calcium causes blossom end rot.
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Cracked tomatoes is caused by infrequent watering.
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Tomato Tips: To grow tasty, delicious tomatoes give them what they need: evenly moist rich loamy soil and at least 6 hours of direct sun a day. In hot climates avoid areas where they will receive full sun in the afternoon so they don’t bake. Give tomatoes space. They should be at least 2 feet apart so air can circulate and the sun can penetrate. Secure stems, even ones in cages, as their soft stems break easily. Remove suckers, preferably when they are small as the plants to mature. Don’t allow the soil to dry out as fluctuating soil moisture leads to blossom end rot and the fruit to split. There’s lots of tips and techniques for growing healthy delicious fruit. Here’s a few links to check out: Tomato Tips - Tomato Seedlings to Plants - Taming Tomatoes - Speeding up Tomato Harvest - Tomato Troubles - Saving Tomato Seeds
Rockin' the Roses
Cut flowers off just above a 5-leaflet leaf.
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Rose sawfly damage. Click on pick for more.
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Ants like to nest under roses.
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Rose bloom balling. Click on pic for more.
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A ladybug larva feasts on aphids.
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Roses flower this month.
Roses are at their height of loveliness this month. For gorgeous blossoms and healthy robust plants, provide them with a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun a day, rich moist soil and 3 inches of an organic mulch such as recycled wood chips. Cover the ground around the rose plant, but don’t bury their canes, nor their crown (where the stem and roots meet).
Roses need adequate moisture to be healthy, floriferous and to deter ants from making nests among the roots. When deadheading roses and using them for floral arrangements, cut stems just above a leaf with 5 to 7 leaflets. To encourage more blossoms and a healthy plant, fertilize and water after each flush of bloom. Fertilize with compost, SeaSoil, kelp or another organic fertilizer.
Roses need adequate moisture to be healthy, floriferous and to deter ants from making nests among the roots. When deadheading roses and using them for floral arrangements, cut stems just above a leaf with 5 to 7 leaflets. To encourage more blossoms and a healthy plant, fertilize and water after each flush of bloom. Fertilize with compost, SeaSoil, kelp or another organic fertilizer.
Quicksilver Arborose climbing rose.
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Goldener Olymp climbing rose.
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Secure climbing rose canes to a support.
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Climbing Roses: Climbing roses long supple canes don't have the ability to cling to a support so secure them to their support with twine. Train them horizontally along a fence to encourage more flowers to develop along the length of the cane.
Click on the following links for more on roses.
How to Grow Roses - Types of Roses - Easy Roses - Climbing Roses - Rose Sawfly - Portland's Rose Test Garden - Rose Insects & Diseases - Pruning Roses - Rose Bloom Balling
Click on the following links for more on roses.
How to Grow Roses - Types of Roses - Easy Roses - Climbing Roses - Rose Sawfly - Portland's Rose Test Garden - Rose Insects & Diseases - Pruning Roses - Rose Bloom Balling
Powdery mildew on a tuberous begonia.
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A rose infected with powdery mildew.
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Ants are not a threat to peonies.
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Powdery Mildew: The white powder on plant leaves, buds & flowers is caused by a fungus called powdery mildew. To control, spray plants and soil with 1 tablespoon baking soda, ¼ teaspoon of liquid dishwashing soap, ½ teaspoon of vegetable oil, 1 gallon of water. Surprisingly milk is another effective control. Mix 1 part milk to 2 to 3 parts of water and spray the entire plants and soil. Apply every 10 to 14 days. Note that infected leaves will not recover as their tissues are permanently damaged, however subsequent new growth should be blemish free.
Peony & Ants: Don’t panic and don’t kill ants on peony buds. They have a symbiotic relationship where they both benefit. The ants ward off insects, and in return, they happily feed on the peonies sweet nectar.
Peony & Ants: Don’t panic and don’t kill ants on peony buds. They have a symbiotic relationship where they both benefit. The ants ward off insects, and in return, they happily feed on the peonies sweet nectar.
Weeds - The Unwanted
Don't let weeds go to seed.
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Pull, don't dig, horsetails.
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Horsetails are difficult to control.
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Landscape fabric doesn't work.
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Weeding tools come in very handy.
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Digging weeds out of the ground is much easier to do when the ground is wet. Ideally that’s the best time to bring out weeding tools to pry them out of the ground. Stop unwanted plants from seeding everywhere by removing flowers and seed heads. To further prevent weeds lay 3 inches of an organic mulch on top of the soil and around plants. Don't use landscape fabric as it defeats the benefits of using mulch. And don't dig the mulch into the soil, just lay it on top of the ground. For more on mulch click here.
Cover veggie scraps with torn newspapers.
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Cover veggies to prevent flies, critters & odor.
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Use a garden fork to turn the pile.
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Compost: Turn the pile before adding more veggie scraps and non-seedy plants from the garden. To avoid spreading weeds, insects and diseases, don’t compost weed seeds, their runners and anything that’s fallen prey to insects or diseases. To prevent rodents and bad smells, don’t compost meat, fat and anything that is cooked. After turning the pile, add a green layer of kitchen scraps etc., then top with the brown carbon layer such as dried leaves and/or torn up newspaper. Add water, when necessary, as moisture helps with the decomposing process. For more on composting click here.
Hanging Basket, Planters
Don't let container grown veggies dry out.
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Hanging baskets dry out quickly.
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Place drainage tray under pots.
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Daily monitoring and watering is prudent as container grown plants dry out so quickly during the summer. Move ones that continue to wilt in the afternoon sun to a shadier location. Saturate the soil so it drains into it's drainage tray. A drainage tray acts as a reservoir and protects surfaces. To rejuvenate overly dry plants, dunk moss baskets and planters in a bucket of water or sink until the bubbling stops. Fertilize weak and yellowing plants with a liquid fertilizer for quick results. For more on growing in containers click here.
Butterflies and Pollinators
A bee enjoys a false indigo (Baptisia) flower.
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Feed butterflies with pieces of ripe fruit.
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Pesticides kill all insects, including bees.
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Set up water stations for pollinators.
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To attract butterflies, place sliced oranges, overripe bananas and other ripe fruit in a shallow dish or place them around the garden. For more information on how to attract and care for pollinators click on Helping Pollinators.
Water for All: Every living thing needs water including the birds and the bees. Place shallow dishes of water for birds and saucers with sand, pebbles and water around the garden.
Water for All: Every living thing needs water including the birds and the bees. Place shallow dishes of water for birds and saucers with sand, pebbles and water around the garden.
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THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
Click on the links below to be redirected.
for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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