Morning dew on grass blades. Photo Amanda Jarrett
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This page includes Lawn Care Basics:
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Lawn Index: click on the items below to be redirected to the page.
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Why have a lawn?
Hate your lawn? Do you toil away but still have a weedy, mossy, buggy patch of earth that critters love to dig up? It doesn’t have to be this way. There are a few key things that makes turfgrass healthier and happier so it can suffer the slings and arrows of what nature and you throw at it.
There are many misconceptions about lawns, one of them is that they have few if any benefits. That’s just not true. All those little grass plants produce oxygen and are an efficient carbon sink. According to NASA, the million acres of lawns in America consume massive amounts of carbon a year to help reduce global warming.
There are many misconceptions about lawns, one of them is that they have few if any benefits. That’s just not true. All those little grass plants produce oxygen and are an efficient carbon sink. According to NASA, the million acres of lawns in America consume massive amounts of carbon a year to help reduce global warming.
You can't beat a nice green lawn for a place to picnic and Greenwich Village park is no exception.
Walking bare-foot on the lawn quickly reveals their ability to cool the air around them. As they release water they become nature’s air conditioner. Grass blades absorb particulates, pollutants and dust from the air. Grass roots clean and filter water before it gets into the water table. Those roots also reduce erosion and soil degradation.
Hard surfaces such as paving and concrete emphasize sounds, however, lawns reduce and buffer noise. They also make a tumble much less painful. Picnics are more fun, dogs can romp and play and it is just more user friendly than hard surfaces.
Lawns also act as a green accent to rest your eyes, to complement the garden beds, to lead the eye from one bed to the next and tie the different parts of the garden together.
This is all true if the lawn looks like a lawn and not a battlefield. With just a few changes in maintenance, your lawn should become something to be proud of.
Hard surfaces such as paving and concrete emphasize sounds, however, lawns reduce and buffer noise. They also make a tumble much less painful. Picnics are more fun, dogs can romp and play and it is just more user friendly than hard surfaces.
Lawns also act as a green accent to rest your eyes, to complement the garden beds, to lead the eye from one bed to the next and tie the different parts of the garden together.
This is all true if the lawn looks like a lawn and not a battlefield. With just a few changes in maintenance, your lawn should become something to be proud of.
Common lawn maintenance mistakes
Lawns suffer when they don't receive enough water.
- Removing too much of the grass blades at one time. Only remove 1/3rd of the leaf blades at each mowing, therefore mow approximately once a week or more during the growing season.
- Bagging grass clippings when mowing. This reduces the need to fertilize as the clippings decompose to provide nitrogen, phosphorus, potash as well other nutrients.
- Cutting the grass too short. Set your mower at 2 ½ to 3 inches, no lower. In summer, set it higher at 3 to 4 inches.
- Not watering in the summer. This jeopardizes lawn health and seriously encourages chafer grubs, chinch bugs and leatherjackets. Weeds and moss also move in wherever the grass dies.
- No power raking. It tears out thatch but it also rips out grass by its roots. Instead core aerate in spring or fall. It removes plugs of soils creating channels for air and water.
- Repeated use of quick acting synthetic fertilizers are high in salts, which destroys the soil ecology.
- Fertilize with high nitrogen fertilizer (1st number is highest) before May. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus (2nd number is highest), commonly called a starter fertilizer: 18-24-6 before May, then follow up with a high nitrogen plant food in May or June.
- Using a fertilizer that contains only one nutritional element such as 30-0-0. Feed all parts of the plant with a complete fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorous and potash. Ones that contain secondary and trace elements are also beneficial.
Fertilizing Lawns
Organic Materials Review Institute ensures organic standards.
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Turfgrass love nitrogen and yes, they are heavy feeders, however you can reduce the need for fertilizers if you leave the clippings on the lawn. Hence the need for regular weekly mowing, so clippings aren’t so long they smother the lawn.
Opt for organic lawn fertilizers with the OMRI logo, as they don’t injure the soil or the life forms within. Healthy soil contains all kinds of organisms. These organisms make and retain soil nutrients for the plants to feed on. |
Lawn fertilizers containing mycorrhizal fungi gives plants the ability to absorb more nutrients and water.
Relatively new on the market is lawn food that contain beneficial mycorrhizal fungi. This fungi attaches to grass roots providing them with additional nutrients and water. It is a good thing. Avoid using synthetic fertilizers after applying mycorrhizal as it harms the fungi. Another excellent addition to lawn care is compost tea. It is like a tonic for the lawn making it hardier and healthier. Apply it during the growing season via a hose end sprayer. Filter it out well using panti-hose to prevent the sprayer from clogging. There are landscapers/lawn maintenance companies that will do this service for you.
Organic lawn fertilizers not only feed the grass, they benefit the soil.
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Avoid quick release synthetic fertilizers as they easily burn grass roots. They also stimulate a quick green-up at the expense of the roots. The new, lush grass is vulnerable to insects, diseases and environmental stress such as drought. If you insist on using synthetic fertilizers, select the slow release ones as they are much easier on the soil and the frequency of applications is reduced.
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Avoid fertilizers with just one number on the label: 30-0-0 as they don’t provide a complete diet. Plants don’t live on nitrogen alone as all parts of the grass plants need food, not just the foliage. Opt for ones that also include the two other prime nutrients: phosphorus and potash: 6-8-6. For a well-rounded diet, look for ones with iron, magnesium, manganese and other secondary and trace elements.
High nitrogen fertilizers (first number is highest), promote new, green tender growth, which is good once the roots are developed and growing, however, it overtaxes the plant if nitrogen is applied too early in the spring – before May. Lawn roots don’t start doing their thing usually until March in British Columbia. The way to encourage root growth is by keeping the grass long (not mowing it too short) and by supplying the roots with food by way of phosphorus fertilizer (second number is highest: 6-8-6) before May. When root growth slows in June, foliage growth speeds up. That is the time to add a high nitrogen fertilizer: 12-6-8.
Apply a nitrogen fertilizer in August or September that has a high first number but also contains the two other elements: phosphorus and potash (10-3-5). Follow up with a winterizer fertilizer a couple of weeks before your first frost date as the lawn goes into dormancy. Winterizer fertilizers increase plant hardiness and are low in nitrogen but high in potash: 3-5-10. At this time of year it's not a good idea to stimulate lots of fresh, new, tender growth as it will be damaged by harsh freezing temperatures. To learn more about fertilizers click here. To learn more about fertilizer ratios click here.
High nitrogen fertilizers (first number is highest), promote new, green tender growth, which is good once the roots are developed and growing, however, it overtaxes the plant if nitrogen is applied too early in the spring – before May. Lawn roots don’t start doing their thing usually until March in British Columbia. The way to encourage root growth is by keeping the grass long (not mowing it too short) and by supplying the roots with food by way of phosphorus fertilizer (second number is highest: 6-8-6) before May. When root growth slows in June, foliage growth speeds up. That is the time to add a high nitrogen fertilizer: 12-6-8.
Apply a nitrogen fertilizer in August or September that has a high first number but also contains the two other elements: phosphorus and potash (10-3-5). Follow up with a winterizer fertilizer a couple of weeks before your first frost date as the lawn goes into dormancy. Winterizer fertilizers increase plant hardiness and are low in nitrogen but high in potash: 3-5-10. At this time of year it's not a good idea to stimulate lots of fresh, new, tender growth as it will be damaged by harsh freezing temperatures. To learn more about fertilizers click here. To learn more about fertilizer ratios click here.
Starter fertilizers are high in phosphorus to encourage root growth.
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Select fertilizers that contain trace elements and micro nutrients, not just NPK.
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watering Lawns (Irrigation)
Correct watering not only increases root growth, it also benefits the soil. Water early in the morning to prevent diseases and minimize evaporation. Apply 1 inch a week but do follow your local water restrictions during the summer. That does not mean that you mustn’t water, just follow the rules. To figure out how long to keep the sprinklers on, place containers on the lawn to see how long it takes for an inch of water to collect.
Lawns show drought stress when footprints don’t bounce back. Grass can handle drought conditions for a few weeks, but after 4 -5 weeks plants die, so give them at least ½ inch a week during the summer. Keep grass long as it also helps shade the soil and those longer leaves results in longer roots.
Lawns show drought stress when footprints don’t bounce back. Grass can handle drought conditions for a few weeks, but after 4 -5 weeks plants die, so give them at least ½ inch a week during the summer. Keep grass long as it also helps shade the soil and those longer leaves results in longer roots.
Mowing
Mowing isn’t rocket science, but there are a few things can help to make you and your grass happy campers. Don’t cut the grass too short and keep a regular mowing schedule. That means once a week minimum throughout the growing season. Cutting too much off at one time promotes new lush, green growth. Although that sounds like a good thing, it isn’t. The new flush of foliage is the grass pushing itself to reproduce its lost foliage.
Mowing too low also affects the roots as they die back proportionally to the mowed leaves. This fast green-up makes people believe that the grass is happy, alas, it is not. In fact it is overcompensating for its loss at the expense of its roots. When drought and heat occurs, the smaller root system can’t handle it and the grass quickly declines.
Regular mowing permits the clippings to remain on the grass without having to bag them. Only remove 1/3rd of the height of the grass. Referred to as ‘grasscycling’, this practice provides organic matter, which is food for beneficial soil dwelling microbes. It also provides nitrogen, phosphorus and potash as well as other micronutrients. Set the mower to 2.5 to 3.0 inches as the longer the leaf blade, the deeper the roots. Those deep roots store food and seek out water and nutrients. In summer, raise the mower even more from 3 to 4 inches. The longer leaves shade and cool the soil in summer and insulates the grass plants’ crown throughout the year.
Keep mower blades sharp as dull ones tears the leaves. Free the underside of the mower and the chute of grass after each mowing. Mow when the grass is dry as wet grass is difficult to cut and clumps and it spreads diseases. Timing is everything so be attentive to the weather forecast and plan accordingly.
Mowing too low also affects the roots as they die back proportionally to the mowed leaves. This fast green-up makes people believe that the grass is happy, alas, it is not. In fact it is overcompensating for its loss at the expense of its roots. When drought and heat occurs, the smaller root system can’t handle it and the grass quickly declines.
Regular mowing permits the clippings to remain on the grass without having to bag them. Only remove 1/3rd of the height of the grass. Referred to as ‘grasscycling’, this practice provides organic matter, which is food for beneficial soil dwelling microbes. It also provides nitrogen, phosphorus and potash as well as other micronutrients. Set the mower to 2.5 to 3.0 inches as the longer the leaf blade, the deeper the roots. Those deep roots store food and seek out water and nutrients. In summer, raise the mower even more from 3 to 4 inches. The longer leaves shade and cool the soil in summer and insulates the grass plants’ crown throughout the year.
Keep mower blades sharp as dull ones tears the leaves. Free the underside of the mower and the chute of grass after each mowing. Mow when the grass is dry as wet grass is difficult to cut and clumps and it spreads diseases. Timing is everything so be attentive to the weather forecast and plan accordingly.
Thatch
Thatch is a layer of dead crowns, stems, stolons, rhizomes that forms at the base of the grass plants and on top of the soil surface. It is good to have 1/2” or less layer of thatch as it protects crowns: increases wear, insulates the soil and roots against temperature extremes, prevents water evaporation and increases impact absorption while minimizing wheel ruts from repeated mowing and heavy mowers.
Too much thatch is a problem. It acts as a barrier preventing penetration of water, air and fertilizer as well as harboring diseases. Grass crowns root into the thatch and not the soil increasing scalping (mowing too short), which makes them prone to injury and drought stress.
Too much thatch is a problem. It acts as a barrier preventing penetration of water, air and fertilizer as well as harboring diseases. Grass crowns root into the thatch and not the soil increasing scalping (mowing too short), which makes them prone to injury and drought stress.
Use slow release dolopril lime as it is gentler on the soil that rapid lime.
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It is a misconception that leaving clippings on the lawn causes thatch; it’s actually a lack of beneficial soil organisms that fail to break it down. To increase soil health, refrain from using synthetic nitrogen fertilizers especially fast acting ones, including water soluble plant food (Miracle Grow etc.). Applying too much lime especially rapid lime, is detrimental to soil health, especially when over applied. Use a coated lime, such as Dolopril, and follow the instructions. Underwatering, especially during the summer, reduces microbial activity so thatch is not broken down. Mowing too short (scalping) and power raking also encourages thatch.
Preventing and Reducing Thatch: Apply an inch of compost (topdress) with compost annually in either early spring or late fall. Water during drought, but do follow local municipal watering restrictions. Refrain from using synthetic nitrogen. Mow high, mow often. |
Renovating Lawns
Crows are actually doing you a favour by removing the grubs from the lawn, without chemicals.
Improving soil conditions and changing incorrect maintenance practices go a long way to keep a lawn healthy. If you have changed your maintenance practices by mowing high, mowing weekly during the growing season, leaving clippings on the lawn, not allowing it to die during the summer drought, giving it an inch of water a week, and not applying fast acting synthetic nitrogen fertilizer and after a year it is still in terrible shape, it is time to do a lawn reno.
Lawn renovation is best done in fall when the rains return. Tree leaves should be turning colour and the ground still warm from the summer. The next best time is early spring, around March. A handful of soil shouldn’t drip when squeezed.
First set the mower at its lowest setting, then aerate, topdress (cover the grass) with1 to 3 inches of garden soil or compost with an organic starter fertilizer high in phosphorous (middle number on fertilizer labels) or just use bonemeal or mycorrizal fungi for turf. Allow the soil to settle for a week. Water the day before seeding and sodding and afterwards. Keep soil moist for good seed germination and from sod from drying out. Seeds often have to be watered a few times a day, especially on sunny days. For more on lawn renovation, seeding and sodding click here. For dealing with lawn grubs click here.
Lawn renovation is best done in fall when the rains return. Tree leaves should be turning colour and the ground still warm from the summer. The next best time is early spring, around March. A handful of soil shouldn’t drip when squeezed.
First set the mower at its lowest setting, then aerate, topdress (cover the grass) with1 to 3 inches of garden soil or compost with an organic starter fertilizer high in phosphorous (middle number on fertilizer labels) or just use bonemeal or mycorrizal fungi for turf. Allow the soil to settle for a week. Water the day before seeding and sodding and afterwards. Keep soil moist for good seed germination and from sod from drying out. Seeds often have to be watered a few times a day, especially on sunny days. For more on lawn renovation, seeding and sodding click here. For dealing with lawn grubs click here.
Weeds
Keeping the lawn healthy so it can compete with lawn weeds and win is imperative. Too many weeds is often caused by incorrect maintenance especially from not watering in the summer. There are many hand weeding tools that help with such an ardous task. Long handled tools that pry roots out of the ground save backs and knees.
Tackle pulling weeds when the soil is damp as they are easier to remove. Weeding is also easier during the late fall through to early spring as they are not actively growing and are weaker. Try to get out as much of the roots as possible so they don’t regrow.
To prevent weed seeds (and any kinds of seeds) from germinating apply corn gluten in early spring in March or when forsythias blossom. Apply again in fall around October. Mow the weeds in your lawn before they go to seed to prevent their spread.
Tackle pulling weeds when the soil is damp as they are easier to remove. Weeding is also easier during the late fall through to early spring as they are not actively growing and are weaker. Try to get out as much of the roots as possible so they don’t regrow.
To prevent weed seeds (and any kinds of seeds) from germinating apply corn gluten in early spring in March or when forsythias blossom. Apply again in fall around October. Mow the weeds in your lawn before they go to seed to prevent their spread.
Turf Management Schedule
For a timeline on what to do and when, visit the the Lawn Maintenance Schedule page.
If All Else Fails - Forgo the Lawn!
You are fighting a losing battle if there is too much shade, the soil is compacted, it’s heavy clay and the drainage is poor. If conditions are not suitable to grow grass then don’t waste your time, money and patience. Groundcovers are alternatives to an ugly lawn. Plant Japanese spurge, Pachysandra terminalis, sweet violets (Viola odorata) or other groundcovers. Build raised garden beds and fill them with plants suitable for the conditions. Ferns, hostas, rhododendrons, camellias and many other plants love moist, acidic soil and shady locations.
Another option is to install a patio or deck where the grass fails to grow. Steep slopes are very unsafe to mow and should be converted into terraced beds, Don’t forget to include paths and steps for safety and easy access.
You are fighting a losing battle if there is too much shade, the soil is compacted, it’s heavy clay and the drainage is poor. If conditions are not suitable to grow grass then don’t waste your time, money and patience. Groundcovers are alternatives to an ugly lawn. Plant Japanese spurge, Pachysandra terminalis, sweet violets (Viola odorata) or other groundcovers. Build raised garden beds and fill them with plants suitable for the conditions. Ferns, hostas, rhododendrons, camellias and many other plants love moist, acidic soil and shady locations.
Another option is to install a patio or deck where the grass fails to grow. Steep slopes are very unsafe to mow and should be converted into terraced beds, Don’t forget to include paths and steps for safety and easy access.
Check out:
Groundcovers
Soil Building
Compost Tea
Fertilizing and Feeding Plants
Fertilizer and Ratios
Groundcovers
Soil Building
Compost Tea
Fertilizing and Feeding Plants
Fertilizer and Ratios
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