Fuzzy Wuzzy Dahlia
Dahlias 101
There are so many different types of dahlia flowers. Some are simple with just a single layer of petals surrounding a centre of golden stamens, whilst others are packed with petals. There's many flower shapes depending on the shape and size of the petals and how they are arranged, such as pompon, catcus and dinnerplate dahlias. Plant sizes vary from dwarfs that are only a foot tall to others that grow over 6 feet. Note that the size of the plant doesn't have anything to do with the size of the flower. The Jill Pompom series has flowers only a few inches wide on plants over five feet tall. Before purchasing dahlias it's a good idea to check the size of the plant as well as the flowers.
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Care, Sun & Staking
Dahlias are tough plants. They are tolerant of most soils but they prefer and do their best when the oil is well-drained and moist with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Full sun is best, at least 8 hours of direct sun per day. In hot climates, they appreciate afternoon shade. Lack of sun results in weaker plants. Stems elongate towards the light and flowers are smaller and fewer. Grow tall dahlias in protected areas away from wind.
Most dahlias benefit from some sort of support. They have hollow brittle stems that easily bend and break under top heavy flowers. Peony and tomato rings work for some medium sized dahlias, but for anything taller, there are a few other options.
Dahlias are tough plants. They are tolerant of most soils but they prefer and do their best when the oil is well-drained and moist with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Full sun is best, at least 8 hours of direct sun per day. In hot climates, they appreciate afternoon shade. Lack of sun results in weaker plants. Stems elongate towards the light and flowers are smaller and fewer. Grow tall dahlias in protected areas away from wind.
Most dahlias benefit from some sort of support. They have hollow brittle stems that easily bend and break under top heavy flowers. Peony and tomato rings work for some medium sized dahlias, but for anything taller, there are a few other options.
- Place a few inexpensive small wire trellises around a plant and secure them into the ground. Tie the dahlia stems to the trellises as they grow. Dollar stores have inexpensive wire ones in numerous sizes.
- Bamboo stakes and twine are inconspicuous supports. Secure 3 or 4 bamboo stakes into the ground around the plant. Wrap sturdy twine around the bamboo stakes, the dahlia plant and a few of the stems, to secure even further.
- Or tie each stem with their own individual stake. Keep tying the the stakes as stems grow.
- Keep stakes and twine handy as stems grow and are deal with wind and rain.
Blossoms: Dahlias blossoms are wonderful cut flowers. Select ones that are just opening up and avoid blossoms that are losing petals. Forget any tight buds as they tend not to open.
To grow huge flowers, remove all the side and top flower buds except for one on each stem. Or go for one large flower on one stem - if you dare! Don't forget to stake! Remove dead flowers regularly to encourage more flowers and to tidy up the plants. |
Planting Dahlias
- The earlier dahlias are potted up, the sooner they will flower. Start them in February and March and don’t delay if they have already sprouted.
- Wait to plant dahlias outside until soil temperatures reach 15°C(60°F) and the danger of frost has past.
- Divide large clumps by separating it into smaller clumps. Note that although the clumps of tubers look like a jumbled mass, attached to each stem are a circle of tubers. New plants actually form on top of each other. All you have to do is look closely for a stem that's attached to some tubers and separate it from the rest. Gently hold onto a stem and wiggle it free from the others. There's usually one spot that is joined to the mother plant. Just severe it from the mother tuberous mass with hand pruners. The result is number of tubers with at least one stem and/or a bud at the top of the tubers.
- Check out the video below to show you how I divide dahlias.
- Soak the stored tubers overnight before planting, especially if they are shriveled. They should plump up as they absorb the water.
- Discard any rotten ones or cut off any diseased parts from healthy tubers. Discard any that don't have a stem or bud at the top of the tuber as it will not grow.
- Plant in pots using potting soil and label, with the eyes facing up.
- Cover with a 2 to 3 inches of soil and water.
- Keep them outside in a sunny, frost free area or a heated greenhouse.
- If it’s still freezing outside, place them inside a frost free, but cool location such as a garage or basement.
- Once their leaves poke out of the soil they'll need more light. Move them outside on frost free days or supplement their lighting with grow lights.
- You can keep them outside if there is a light frost, but do cover them with a frost blanket, sheet, tablecloth etc.
- Don't forget about them as they will need to be watered and monitored.
- Plant in the garden when the danger of frost has past.
- Incorporate some bonemeal and compost into the soil before planting.
- Avoid giving plants too much nitrogen so avoid growing them in soil that has lots of animal manure, and avoid high nitrogen fertilizers (1st number highest), including fish fertilizers. Too much nitrogen encourages taller, more succulent stems with fewer flowers and rot.
- Easy on the water. Tubers are prone to rot where soils don't drain well.
- Slugs & snails love dahlias so grow them in pots so new foliage isn't eaten. Once foliage matures, then plant them in the garden. Other solutions include copper mesh surrounding the stems at ground level, slug bait hotels and for more slug controls click here.
Storing
Unless you live in a warm climate, USDA Zones 9 to 11, you should dig up dahlias and store them in a dry, dark, frost free but cool location. It’s touch and go for dahlias grown in Zone 8. Oftentimes they are fine if left in the ground overwinter, but if the winter gets too cool, too wet for too long, they will not survive. It is very disappointing when they don’t pop up in spring. There are a few other reasons why digging them up every fall and potting them up before planting them outside prevents them from being devoured by slugs and snails. It also makes it easier divide them and gives you the opportunity to redesign your garden with all your lovely dahlias.
Wait until frost kills the tops, or when they start to decline cut all stems back to 4 inches. Wait a week then dig them up with a garden fork and label. Knock off the soil or rinse them off with a soft spray from a garden hose. Remove any dead, diseased and damaged tubers. Place in a dry frost-free area to cure for a week. After the tubers have dried, cut back the stems to 1 inch and place into cardboard boxes that are ¼ filled with sterile dry media such as vermiculite, peat moss, sawdust or clean potting soil. Lay the labelled tubers right side up in the box without overcrowding. Dust each dahlia with a good coating of cinnamon to prevent fungi. Add the media ensuring that all the tubers are buried. Store in a cool 5 - 10°C (40-50°F), dry area such as a garage or basement. Check every monthly for any mushy or dry shriveled tubers and discard.
Unless you live in a warm climate, USDA Zones 9 to 11, you should dig up dahlias and store them in a dry, dark, frost free but cool location. It’s touch and go for dahlias grown in Zone 8. Oftentimes they are fine if left in the ground overwinter, but if the winter gets too cool, too wet for too long, they will not survive. It is very disappointing when they don’t pop up in spring. There are a few other reasons why digging them up every fall and potting them up before planting them outside prevents them from being devoured by slugs and snails. It also makes it easier divide them and gives you the opportunity to redesign your garden with all your lovely dahlias.
Wait until frost kills the tops, or when they start to decline cut all stems back to 4 inches. Wait a week then dig them up with a garden fork and label. Knock off the soil or rinse them off with a soft spray from a garden hose. Remove any dead, diseased and damaged tubers. Place in a dry frost-free area to cure for a week. After the tubers have dried, cut back the stems to 1 inch and place into cardboard boxes that are ¼ filled with sterile dry media such as vermiculite, peat moss, sawdust or clean potting soil. Lay the labelled tubers right side up in the box without overcrowding. Dust each dahlia with a good coating of cinnamon to prevent fungi. Add the media ensuring that all the tubers are buried. Store in a cool 5 - 10°C (40-50°F), dry area such as a garage or basement. Check every monthly for any mushy or dry shriveled tubers and discard.