A window box full of annuals looks great in Warwick, England. Photo Amanda Jarrett
Why Grow in Containers - Container and Plant Savvy - Seasonality & Functionality - Festive Occasions - Containers and Drainage - Balconies: Things to Know - Soils for Containers - Planting a Container - Watering - Lighting - Aesthetically Pleasing - Container Aesthetics - Plant Aesthetics - Trees - Keeping a Plant in the Same Pot for Years (with Root Pruning)
Why Grow in Containers?
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The convenience of stepping out on the balcony to snip some tender lettuce leaves, a scented sprig of rosemary, to pull out a crunchy radish, or to pick a flower to grace the table makes growing in containers worthwhile. Why grow in containers?
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Red Sails leaf lettuce & cilantro make a good partners.
A collection of spring bulbs and perennials make a nice seasonal display.
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Container and Plant Savvy
All these succulents like the same conditions: hot, sunny & dry.
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Right plant – right place is the credo of any successful gardener. Know what conditions you have and select plants accordingly by reading plant labels’ and asking nursery staff. For inspiration, check out their wonderfully designed planters on display.
When planting numerous plants in a container, select ones that like the same conditions to reduce maintenance and increase success. Combine succulents and cactus as they love a screaming hot sunny patio, so do peppers, tomatoes and other hot tamale plants. If you have a shady and cool spot where grass refuses to grow, combine ferns, Solomon's seal, astilbe, begonias, coleus, impatiens and coral bells in a nice pot and no one will notice your forlorn lawn. |
Seasonality & Functionality
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Change the look and the function of an existing planter by adding and subtracting plants. This is a quick and easy way to convert the look, mood, aesthetics and even a planter’s purpose. Add edibles to make it functional, productive and more attractive. Frilly lettuce, fern-like carrot leaves, lacy kale and many other veggies are quite beautiful. Then there are also herbs; they aren't too shabby either such as lavender, thyme, sage and rosemary.
It's easy to dress up a forlorn winter garden with a container filled with the twisted twigs Harry Lauder’s walking stick, white birch branches and bright red dogwood stems. In autumn, think ahead to spring by adding daffodils, snowdrops, crocus and other spring blooming bulbs. You’ll be glad you did come spring. If fall has passed you by, just purchase some potted bulbs in bloom and pop them in pot and all. Once they fade, lift out the entire pot and the bulbs within. Add petunias, marigolds and other bedding plants for a summer show. Come fall spruce up a tired planting with chrysanthemums, autumn crocus, ornamental kale and other autumnal stunners (don't forget to throw in some daffodils etc., while you are at it). |
Tete-a-tete Narcissus, primroses and the curly twigs
of the Harry Lauder's Walking stick are all you need for a seasonal planter.
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Festive Occasions
Any special occasion is easy to celebrate by adding a little pizzazz to an existing container. Add some Christmas ornaments for a yuletide theme. Pop in an Easter lily to celebrate spring as well as Easter. Single red roses placed in a vase and nestled among the foliage is an elegant way to acknowledge Valentine’s Day. For birthdays, add some balloons, a colourful flowering potted plant and some streamers.
Hide a vase of flowers in any planter to add colour.
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Remove the carnations and replace with other cut flowers once they fade.
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Containers and Drainage
The number one killer of container grown plants is too much water. Overwatering is the obvious culprit, but so is a lack of drainage holes. Don’t cover them with rocks as this hinders water flow and adds unnecessary weight. To make drainage holes on clay pots use a masonry bit use and use a carbide-tipped drill bit on metal. When drilling into clay, cover the spot first with an ‘x’ made from masking tape. Double potting is another option for pots that lack drainage by placing a small pot with drainage holes inside a larger pot.
Double potting mechanics.
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Double potting result.
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Balconies: Things to Know
It's best to place big, heavy containers in balcony corners and along the edges where there's reinforcement. Be mindful of numerous pots and their collective weight. Since balconies don't have earth’s thermal heat to keep them warm, select perennial plants one or two zones cooler than your climatic zone. Vancouver is hardiness zone is 8 so select plants for zone 6 and under. Add extra protection during the winter by wrapping pots with bubble wrap, Styrofoam, insulation or even blankets. Protect the plants with a layer of leaves, burlap, old sheets, tablecloths and anything else that breaths. Don't use plastic as it has no insulating value and promotes rotting due to the lack of air flow. For even more protection, bury unwrapped pots in the garden.
Soils for Containers
Use potting soil, not soil from the garden when planting containers. This one contains mycorrhizal fungi.
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Use sterile potting soil not soil from the garden due to weed seeds, bugs, fungi and diseases. There are many excellent commercial potting soils that provide and retain nutrients as they include compost, composted wood chips and/or sawdust or well-rotted manure. If it’s too woody or peaty, add and mix vermiculite, sand or perlite to increase drainage. Some commercial mixes also contain slow release fertilizers and polymers that absorb moisture. They look like crystals when dry but turn into big water filled blobs of jelly. They do reduce the need for watering, but not a huge amount. They are made from polymer polyacrylamide, which contains the neurotoxin acrylamide, so don’t use with edibles.
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Relatively new on the market are soils that contain mycorrhizal fungi. It’s good stuff. Refrain from using synthetic fertilizers when using this fungi, as it degrades it.
If you wish to make your own mix here are some few recipe suggestions, but feel free to experiment. Always moisten the soil before planting. It should feel like a wrung out sponge and add bonemeal or mycorrhizal fungi according to the instructions. Add a slow release fertilizer, according to the instructions, to provide plants with a steady amount of food.
If you wish to make your own mix here are some few recipe suggestions, but feel free to experiment. Always moisten the soil before planting. It should feel like a wrung out sponge and add bonemeal or mycorrhizal fungi according to the instructions. Add a slow release fertilizer, according to the instructions, to provide plants with a steady amount of food.
- General Plant Mix: 3 parts potting soil, 1 part compost or SeaSoil , 1 part vermiculite
- Trees, Shrubs Mix: equal parts potting soil, garden mix, well-rotted steer or sheep manure, SeaSoil or compost
- Cacti, Succulents Mix: 2 parts sand, 1 part peat moss or potting soil, 1 part vermiculite
- Acid Loving Plant Mix: 2 parts peat moss, 1 part potting soil, 2 parts compost, 1 composted wood chips, 1 part SeaSoil
Planting a Container
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Water plants the day before planting. Fill the container 2/3rds full with moistened prepared moistened soil. Place the plants, while they are still in their pots, on top in a pleasing arrangement then remove their pots and slightly loosen their roots with your hands. Place the plants then add soil to cover the roots, firming it gently as you go. Don’t add soil to the rim, keep 1 to 2 inches free to add water. Water with a starter (transplanting) fertilizer mixed in to stimulate rooting and reduce transplant shock. Apply according to the manufacturer's instructions. After planting, water the entire soil surface thoroughly so water drains into the drainage tray. Place out of direct sunshine until it perk ups, then place them in their permanent location.
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Fill the container 2/3rds full then arrange plants.
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Fertilizing
Container grown plants rely on you to provide them with food.
Plants grown in containers rely on you to provide them with food. Slow release plant foods provide a steady flow of nutrients, usually up to three months. Water soluble types (Miracle Grow, Peter's) are mixed with water then applied. They work quickly and are rapidly used so they must be reapplied every few weeks. They are non-organic so care must be taken to not over-apply as they burn roots.
Since the plants are grown in a closed system, without the benefit of a working soil ecosystem, they will need micronutrients and trace elements: iron, magnesium, manganese, calcium etc. Kelp fertilizers contain numerous micronutrients and growth hormones, however nitrogen, phosphorous and potash amounts are negligible.
During the growing season tomatoes and other heavy feeders, usually run out of nutrients, even if slow released fertilizers where mixed in while planting. Leaves yellow, growth slows and their vigour declines. Other symptoms may appear such as blossom end rot on tomatoes; a common malady due to a calcium deficiency. When plants are obviously hungry use a water soluble balanced fertilizer on a regular basis such as once a month (ex: 6-8-6), or according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Since the plants are grown in a closed system, without the benefit of a working soil ecosystem, they will need micronutrients and trace elements: iron, magnesium, manganese, calcium etc. Kelp fertilizers contain numerous micronutrients and growth hormones, however nitrogen, phosphorous and potash amounts are negligible.
During the growing season tomatoes and other heavy feeders, usually run out of nutrients, even if slow released fertilizers where mixed in while planting. Leaves yellow, growth slows and their vigour declines. Other symptoms may appear such as blossom end rot on tomatoes; a common malady due to a calcium deficiency. When plants are obviously hungry use a water soluble balanced fertilizer on a regular basis such as once a month (ex: 6-8-6), or according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Watering
Watering containers in the heat of the summer is often a daily chore.
Situate planters close to an outside faucet or have a hose nearby. Patio irrigation kits are a great idea for numerous pots and are available from most home hardware stores and garden centres. Include a backflow device to prevent contaminated water from flowing back into your household plumbing. Water in the morning to reduce disease. Add adequate water so it pools in the drainage tray below. Discard excess after 10 mins. Water the entire soil surface gently; avoid wetting the foliage. If it is potted to high, water will run off no matter how gentle you are, so repot so there is ½ inch of space at least, at the rim. Allow the top ¼ inch of the soil to dry before watering again. It should be slightly less than damp, but if it’s cracking and separating you need to water more often. Too few plants and/or small plants in large containers promotes incorrect watering so make sure the roots fit the pot size. Ensure consistent soil moisture as infrequent watering results in problems such as blossom end rot on tomatoes. Water containers hidden under eaves as they will dry out due to the lack of rain.
Sun & Shade
Select plants that like the same conditions when planting a container.
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One handy feature of growing plants in containers is their ability to be moved, especially if they are on wheels. Follow the sun, especially if your garden has partial sun.
Sun-loving plants need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight per day and are often fruit bearing: tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers. Partial light loving plants tend to be carrots, beets, radish and require 6 hours of sun. Leafy veg, lettuce, spinach and chard, require 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. |
Aesthetically Pleasing
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To make an attractive arrangement use this tried and true method, the 'thrill, fill and spill' technique.
Thrill (anchor plant): use a taller, bold plant with lots of character or a vine on a trellis or obelisk. Place it in the middle or at the back of the container. The thrill plant should be at least as tall as the container or taller. Fill: plant bushy plants at base of the tall plant or trellis. They should be 1/3 to 2/3rds shorter than the thrill plant. Spill: use cascading plants around the rim to spill down to soften the pots edge. |
Japanese maple is the thrill, tuberous begonia is the fill, creeping jenny is the spill at Art's Nursery
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Keep it Simple!
It's fine to have a jumble of plants filling all kinds of colourful pots if that is your style, but keeping things simple is often more aesthetically appealing. Select pots with similar colors for harmony. The size of pots should be in scale with their surroundings as tiny pots look rather silly next to something much bigger. Relate the pots and their colours to the style of the house and the garden. Modern, angular stark planters could look out of place in front of a traditional styled home. For a sleek, clean look select black containers as they show off the plants and match any style, any decor. If you want different coloured pots, just pick one or two colours rather than a plethora. Keep it simple.
It's fine to have a jumble of plants filling all kinds of colourful pots if that is your style, but keeping things simple is often more aesthetically appealing. Select pots with similar colors for harmony. The size of pots should be in scale with their surroundings as tiny pots look rather silly next to something much bigger. Relate the pots and their colours to the style of the house and the garden. Modern, angular stark planters could look out of place in front of a traditional styled home. For a sleek, clean look select black containers as they show off the plants and match any style, any decor. If you want different coloured pots, just pick one or two colours rather than a plethora. Keep it simple.
Aesthetics: Colours
Weeping spruce (Picea abies 'Pendula'), Sweet Caroline Purple potato vine (Ipomoea batatas), petunia, Holland Park
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The use of colours can make or break a design. Green, grey, blue and white plants are cool and serene while red, orange and yellow plants are hot, warm and exciting. Green is tranquil, lush, vibrant, organic, fresh and lovely. It also provides a background for other colours.
For an elegant monochromatic theme, use shades of the same colour family such as yellows: apricot, peach, primrose. To add drama and texture, select plant with different shapes and leaf textures. To make it a complementary colour scheme, throw in some violet or blue coloured plants. Stick to three colours at most as too many becomes too fussy. Don’t forget plants have foliage, not just flowers, and many plants leaves are very striking due to their colour, shape and texture. Ferns, hostas, wild ginger, solomon’s seal and ladies mantle have different types of foliage that look good planted together. |
Silver, white and grey plants make any design come alive. They add contrast and highlight neighbouring plants. Lamb's ears, alyssum and dusty miller soften harsh colours, break up the monotony and add fantastic textures for both touch and sight. Evergreens provide year round greenery in all different shapes, sizes, textures and shades of green. There's the deep green leathery leaves of a skimmia, the long double-needled foliage of a mugo pine and the yellow and green oval leaves of the Emerald 'n Gold Wintercreeper, to name just a few.
Include food crops in other containers that contain not edible plants. Lettuce, peppers, eggplants, carrots, parsley, lavender, basil, sage, kale, chard, peas do well and look great in containers. Don't forget fruit such as blueberries, strawberries, grapes...
Include food crops in other containers that contain not edible plants. Lettuce, peppers, eggplants, carrots, parsley, lavender, basil, sage, kale, chard, peas do well and look great in containers. Don't forget fruit such as blueberries, strawberries, grapes...
Trees in Containers
Weeping Blue Atlas cedar, Cedrus libani 'Glauca Pendula'
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Avoid large tree especially oaks, weeping willows, poplars, princess tree and other tap rooted trees and ones with huge root systems, as they are not suited to container growing. Trees need sturdy containers, with adequate depth and drainage at least 2 feet wide, tall and deep. Select trees that boast at least one attribute: shape, form, colour, bark, flowers etc. To prevent weeds, to retain moisture and add to the soil fertility, add a 3 inch layer of an organic mulch. Or add an edible ground cover such as strawberries, a succulent one like stonecrop or for some seasonal colour add petunias or another bedding plants. In a couple of years or so, they will outgrow their pots and planted into a pot a couple size bigger.
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Root Pruning
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How to keep a plant in the same pot.
When a plant outgrows its container, it isn't necessary to repot it into a larger pot - if you cut back its roots. This is not detrimental to a plant's health, as new roots quickly form. Refrain from root pruning when a plant is flowering or bearing fruit. The procedure for root pruning is as follow: Gently remove the plant from its pot keeping the rootball intact. With a sharp, clean sharp knife or pruning saw, slice off an inch or so from all sides of the rootball. Then slice off an inch to 3 inches from the bottom of the rootball. |
To keep a plant in the same container, remove parts of the roots then replant.
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Don't take too much off, no more than 1/3 of the total rootball mass. Keep those discarded roots as they are full of nutrients. Place some of them back into the bottom of the pot and the rest in the compost. Once the roots are pruned down to size, replant in the same pot with fresh soil, bone meal and a slow release high phosphorous fertilizer (second number on fertilizer labels) to promote root growth. Place in an area away from full sun and bright light. Water generously so water enters the drainage tray below. Include a liquid transplant fertilizer with the water as it contains micronutrients and hormones to stimulate root growth.
If the plant is top heavy and refuses to stand upright, trim its top growth back by 1/3; stake if necessary. Watering daily is often not needed but usually every other day to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Place out of full sun until new growth starts and the plant obviously perks up. If wilting occurs make sure it is not in full sun, the soil is not too wet and the roots are engaged with the soil. To make sure, firm the roots with your hand on top of the soil surface. As soon as new growth emerges, move to it permanent spot and allow soil to dry slightly before watering.
If the plant is top heavy and refuses to stand upright, trim its top growth back by 1/3; stake if necessary. Watering daily is often not needed but usually every other day to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Place out of full sun until new growth starts and the plant obviously perks up. If wilting occurs make sure it is not in full sun, the soil is not too wet and the roots are engaged with the soil. To make sure, firm the roots with your hand on top of the soil surface. As soon as new growth emerges, move to it permanent spot and allow soil to dry slightly before watering.
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