Do you have a garden or plant question? If so, please fill out the form below.  Provide as much information as possible and include pictures, if applicable. Thank you. 

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See below for previous questions and their answers. 

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Japanese Maple dieback

Question
I've attached some pics of my weeping maple that's suddenly struggling....any ideas? Michelle, Delta, BC
Answer
Japanese maples are known to be easy care, but when they are unhappy they drop their foliage, and if the issue isn't rectified, their stems start to die starting at the tips. Culprits include incorrect conditions, incorrect maintenance or worst case scenario, it could be infected with a disease.
First, assess the growing conditions and its maintenance. They prefer conditions similar to their native Japan in areas where conditions are wet, rainy and foggy with high humidity. One of the main reasons of dieback here in BC is lack of water as our summers are hot and dry.
The following are common reasons for premature foliage drop from Japanese maples. 

1. Too much water: Check the drainage and feel the soil for wetness.
2. Girdled roots: Dig down and have a look. If roots are strangling the trunk, sever the culprit root. If the roots are not going into the surrounding soil, where the roots loosened before planting?
3. Is it planted too low or too high? Trunk flare (where trunk and roots join) should sit just above the soil surface.
4. Is it receiving too much sun? Was a neighbouring plant removed that shaded it from the afternoon sun?
5. Is it too wet? Japanese maples in soggy soil show the same symptoms as drought: wilting and leaf loss. Check the soil and if it is too wet and smells bad, root rot (phytophthora) may have already taken its toll.
6. Verticillium wilt:
   1. This is also fairly common as the spores are in the soil and emerge when conditions are suitable. Look for leaves that curl, yellow, wilt and branches droop down.
   2. A good indication of this disease is discolored sapwood. Cut off an affected branch large enough you can see the rings inside (might be tricky to see). If the more recent annual rings are discoloured, then it is verticillium wilt.

What to do:

1. Prune off all the dead stems.
2. Remove all the leaves from the ground.

1. Check the soil moisture looking and touching it.
2. The soil should be wet for at least 6 inches and all the surrounding soil past the canopy at least.
3. Water well is the soil isn’t adequately moist. Long deep soaks promote long roots, so allow soil to puddle a few times.
4. Water the soil, not the plant. Watering near the trunk does little, except promote rotting of the bark. Water underneath and past the tree’s canopy.
5. Mulch! 3 to 4 inches, not cedar or redwood as it deters insects and doesn’t decompose quickly.
6. Provide shade. If the plant is located in full afternoon sun, it might be too hot and sunny, especially if there is no mulch to protect the roots and if it isn’t being adequately watered. Plants growing in full sun need more water than ones in the shade. To provide shade either place a sheet, tablecloth or a floating row cover on the sunny side to block the light. In fall, either move the plant to a shadier location or plant a shrub or tree to block the afternoon sun.
7. If it is verticillium wilt, disinfect the pruners after each cut (1 part Lysol or pine sol and 2 part water in a spray bottle) and cut off infected stems that are dropping their foliage.
8. If the plant doesn’t respond and doesn’t bounce back, then wait until fall to replace it. It’s too hot and dry to plant this time of year. I suggest not replacing it with another Japanese maple.  

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Sappy Plum Tree

Dear Amanda, my plum trees are very ill. There is more and more amber liquid coming out from the trunks and branches. I have attached a photo. What can I do to save my plum trees? Thank you so much!
Sandy, Auckland, New Zealand
Answer: Hello Sandy, thank you for your submission and the picture of your plum tree. Plum trees tend to be rather sappy trees, but when they bleed sap (gummosis), it could be a symptom of a more serious nature. There are a few causes why trees ooze sap, especially plums:
Sunscald: Hot dry summers split the bark especially on the sunniest side of the tree.

Inconsistent watering: This may happen when the soil dries out too much and then is watered copiously. Consistent watering is important to maintain plant health.
Pruning at the Wrong Time & Incorrectly: Don’t prune in early spring after the leaves start to sprout as this is when the sap is flowing freely. Prune when the tree is dormant in late winter and in mid summer. Remove all broken, damaged and diseased limbs, but since the tree may be infected with canker, you must disinfect your pruners after EACH cut. Dilute one part Lysol to 2 parts water, pour into a spray bottle so it is easy to disinfect the tools just by spraying them. Don’t prune too much at one time, only ¼ of overall growth.
Disease: Cytospora canker is a fungal disease that attacks plants that are not being maintained properly due to a variety of reasons such as drought (not watering when it’s hot and dry), injury due to incorrect pruning or being bashed by a lawn mower or line trimmer.  There is no cure for this disease making sure the tree is healthy and happy.
Insects: There are numerous insects, especially peach tree borers. Look at the sap to see if it is clear of if has debris inside it. If it not clear it could be the fecal matter left from the borers. Borers are prone to attack trees that are weakened by drought, sunscald or injury.
What to Do? Assess your maintenance. Is it receiving adequate moisture during the dry season? Or is the soil not draining properly so the water sits, then it evaporates, then it rains, which leads to uneven watering.  Is it receiving too much sun, especially in summer when the sun is at it’s strongest?
I noticed from your picture that the limbs are squished together, which is not a good. The constant rubbing of the branches, lack of air circulation and the squeezing of the branch causes a lot of damage. It would be tricky to remove the offending sappy limb as it is just too big and the other branch is resting upon it.
Summary: Keep the tree healthy by providing the plum tree with adequate and consistent moisture. Remove any dead growth immediately but remember to disinfect the pruners after each cut and don’t compost the remains, discard them instead. ​

Rhododendron Leaf spots

Spots first appear on the lower part of the plant.

This rhodo is suffering from too much sun, lack of water and no mulch.

This rhodo is obviously extremely thirsty making it prone to the disease.

Question: Hi Amanda, I am wondering what the brown spots on my rhododendron are, what causes them, and how to remedy them? Could it be Cercospora?
Answer: Hi Emily, yes, it certainly looks like Rhododendron Cercospora leaf spot (Cercospora handelii). It unsightly common rhodo fungal disease that takes its toll if conditions are not improved to reduce infection.  Lower leaves are affected first with irregular brown spots that eventually the spots turn lighter tan in the center. Some have a yellow halo and some will have tiny dark pimples inside the larger spots. Those wee dimples are the vectors that spread the infection. Rake up infected leaves when they eventually fall off and discard so they don’t reinfect. 
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A contributing factor that initiates and worsens this disease is drought. Rhododendrons have shallow roots so they dry out quickly, especially when it’s hot and dry. Accumulated drought stress over the years promotes this disease and eventually the plant will slowly decline. Water in the summer and any other time when there’s a lack of rainfall. When you do water, avoid wetting the foliage as this spreads the disease. Instead, thoroughly soak the ground past the canopy. 
 
A thick 3 inch layer of mulch is essential for rhodo health as it protects the soil from evaporation and insulates the soil from temperature extremes.
 
Avoid crowding rhodos as stagnant air also contributes to this disease. Remove neighbouring shrubs if they are just too close or thin out their stems. When planting rhododendrons, know their mature width and provide them with proper spacing to encourage good air circulation.
 
Remove infected stems that have died back to just above a set of healthy green leaves where there is no sign of infection. Prune out entire stems if they are fully infected to their base.  Don’t leave stubs: cut just above a leaf, stem, or right at a stems base. After each cut disinfect your pruners with rubbing alcohol – there’s no need to dilute or combine one part Pinesol or Lysol to 3 parts water. Place the disinfectant in a spray bottle as it makes it easier to treat the tools as you cut.  
 
With proper care, the infection should lessen. Don’t expect the damaged leaves to repair themselves and turn green. Once they are infected leaf tissues will not revert back, however new leaves should be healthy. 

Bulb Eating Squirrels

​Question
Squirrels- drat them! It is only now in January, when my bulbs are just producing shoots, that the squirrels are digging them up. I obviously did not secure the mesh well enough as they dig under it. They are even digging down deep to my allium bulbs and leaving them exposed with no dirt on when they realize that "oh, I don't like alliums, I'll dig somewhere else and expose another set of bulbs and chew the tops off some crocus" Help please! Any suggestions? Thanks
Sally, West Vancouver

Squirrels will dig up bulbs looking for food, especially when food is scarce, so one solution is to feed them.

Answer: Hi Sally, sorry about your bulbs being dug up. Squirrels usually don’t like alliums, crocus and narcissus, which makes me think they are digging them up because they are really hungry. Here are a few options.

• Provide them with food such as peanuts, sunflower seeds, and feed corn as it certainly takes the heat off garden plants. Squirrel feeders are available at pet stores and often where garden products are sold. If you decide to feed the squirrels, place the feeder away from vulnerable plants.
• Since covering the bed with mesh didn’t work, line the hole with hardware cloth or chicken wire on all sides as well as on top.
• Plant ground covers: shade: Japanese spurge (Pachysandra), ferns, sun: stonecrop (Sedum), creeping thyme.
• Plant bulbs in bulb cages available at garden centres in autumn where bulbs are sold.
• Usually alliums, narcissus, snowdrops, muscari and fritillarias deter animals and are used around tastier bulbs such as tulips to protect them.
• When planting bulbs, keep the area clean of bulb debris such as tulip skins. There’s no need to advertise where they are.
• Try sprinkling cayenne pepper or blood meal on top of the soil. Since both are water soluble, you’ll have to reapply after rain.
• Plant bulbs in pots, instead of in the ground. It’s easier to protect them as you just cover the top of the pots with netting.  
• Place aluminum foil over the soil and pots where bulbs are planted. Apparently, squirrels dislike shiny things.
• It’s not a good idea to trap and relocate squirrels since it is the mother that usually gets caught leaving the babies to fend for themselves.
• Scatter human hair on top of the soil to deter all sorts of critters, not just squirrels. Your local hair salon will have lots of clean, freshly cut hair.
• Get a cat or a dog! 

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Curry Leaf Tree Fails to Branch

Question
Hi Amanda, I would be so grateful if you could advise. I've looked all over the internet and can't find an answer to my problem. I bought a healthy 17cm curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii). It has petiolated compound leaves. As instructed by the seller, I pinched the growing tip, to force it to branch. However, instead of putting out two branches to replace the removed tip, it has only put out another single vertical growing tip with the same leaf structures as before. Back to square one! Can you advise on how to force it to actually branch? Thanking you in advance for any help you can give. Mac, Liverpool, England

Answer: Thank you for your question regarding your curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii).
It is such an interesting and usual plant, which led me to do some research. This tropical plant, USDA Zones 9 to 11, originates from India and is grown for its aromatic foliage. It needs full sun and dislikes wet soil, which causes root rot. It is a relatively slow grower especially when immature. In cool areas the curry leaf tree should be grown in a container and brought inside for the winter. It will drop its leaves and goes dormant if it gets too cold, but don't worry, dormancy will break in spring when new foliage develops. 

Branching usually occurs after flowering, which occurs when they are quite young. Although pinching out the top bud is supposed to initiate branching, it obviously didn’t work too well with your plant. It could be a result of a few things. First, when was it pinched back? I would do it in spring when it starts to put on new growth. Secondly, instead of pinching just the tip, consider doing an experiment - if you are willing. Cut the branch back to a really strong and healthy leaf. There’s no need to take inches off, but do go to a second or even third leaf. To encourage new growth, give it some fish fertilizer or another high nitrogen fertilizer. Good luck, I hope it works!
Regards,
Amanda

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Why Are my Yews Dying?

Defoliation is a sure sign that something is not right.

This yew is losing its foliage because its roots are not infiltrating the surrounding soil.

Burlap is choking the base of this yew and should be pulled back and cut off as far as possible.

It's clear to see that the burlap, wire and strings have been left on restricting root growth and strangling the tree.

Question:
I have newly planted yew trees (8 ft) in distress! In late March, my landscaper planted a row of 10 yews along the east facing side of my house. He dug a deep trench and brought in fresh soil, etc. So seems like he did everything right! But over the last months they have been struggling more and more, and progressively developing bald spots along the middle of the branches, with needles turning yellow and falling off. Now MOST of them are showing these serious signs of distress. I have been watering them approx every 2-3 days, at first with soaker hoses and then by installing a drip irrigation system. But things are not going well!! Any advice??
Thank you, Nancy
Answer:
​Hello Nancy, the pictures of your balled and burlap yews indicated to me that there were planted incorrectly. I could tell from the withered growth and bare stems that the roots had not grown into the surrounding soil. After you investigated further and by your follow up pictures, it was evident they had not been planted correctly according to the BC Landscape Standards. The burlap had been left on and was still wrapped around the tree trunks. The burlap should have been peeled back and cut off as far as possible without destroying the integrity of the root ball. They were also buried too deeply as the trunk flare, where the roots and stem meet, was a few inches too deep.
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It’s also imperative that newly planted plants must be hand watered. This ensures there are no air spaces between the roots and soil and that it receives adequate water.

My suggestion to you is to kindly ask whomever planted your yews to dig them up and replant them, or replace them and plant them properly. As a landscaper, he should be away of the proper planting practices as outlined in the BC Landscape Standards.  

I also suggest to avoid ball and burlap plants as they are planted in clay. Roots imbedded in clay has a tough time growing into any other type of soil. Plus clay doesn’t drain well and creates host of problems for plant roots. Purchase container grown plants as they are planted in soil, are easier to plant and lift, plus they are less expensive. And don't forget to mulch the soil around the trees. 

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Flopping hydrangeas

Hydrangea blooms are so massive their small stems bend under their weight.

Question: My PeeGee is growing like a tree and is beautiful but once the blooms fill out the branches are too weak to hold them and droop. Anything I can do to help strengthen them? Bonnie
 
Answer: Bonnie, this is a very common problem with many kinds of hydrangeas, especially PeeGees, Hydrangea paniculata 'Grandiflora', as their blooms are massive and their stems are weak.
There’s a few things you can do to prevent the flowers from drooping under their own weight and some pruning techniques. When grown as a tree (referred to as ‘standards’), like yours, the flowers are borne on quite frail stems which droop and easily break.  

• Avoid overhead watering -  water at ground level. The flowers become even heavier when they become water-soaked.
• Keep plants well-watered so they don’t wilt. Once wilting occurs, it’s difficult for the stems to lift those big flowers all the way back up again.
• Too much shade promotes leggier and weaker stems. Provide more light if possible.
• Plant them with other plants, including other hydrangeas, so they aren’t exposed to the elements. This also helps them support each other.  
• For regular shrub hydrangeas (multiple stems), insert a tomato or peony cage over-top the plant after the plant is pruned back. The cage will support the stems that grow within its confines. For ones already growing, use bamboo stakes around inside the perimeter of the canopy. Insert them on an angle facing away from the plant. Then encircle the plant with twine, wrapping it around the bamboo stakes a few times. If the plant is large, which hydrangeas usually are, you can do another tier of twine or even a third. Do this early in the season so you can add more layers of twine as they grow.

Pruning Techniques

• The safest time to prune hydrangeas is in the fall, after flowering.
• Weak stems cannot support the large blossoms so it makes sense to have more stems with smaller flowers. If only a few stems remain after pruning, all the plant’s energy will go into producing fewer but bigger blossoms.
• Instead of cutting back the branches to the ground (shrubs), or back to the trunk (standards), leave 18 to 24 inches of the stems. These stems will thicken and become sturdier as they mature.  
• If you don’t want to cut back the stems that far, compromise by pinching off the growing tip of every branch.  Do this just before new growth starts from winter to very early spring. This encourages more branches. Instead of one long branch with a large flower at the end, there’ll more branches with more but smaller flowers.
• Avoid cutting back hydrangeas to their base every year as this promotes smaller, weaker stems.
• Hydrangea breeders are aware of the problems associated with weak stemmed hydrangeas with huge blossoms and they are doing something about it. Look for ‘anti-flop’ cutlivars such as ‘Incrediball’, 'Invincibelle’ and ‘Bloomstruck’

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What's Eating My Apple leaves?

Damage caused by the green caterpillar larvae of an apple moth.

Question: My newly planted apple trees are not doing well. Their leaves are rolled and have holes in them. What can I do? 
Answer: This is a really good question as your apple trees are the favorite food of many insects. Leaves that are curled inwards are often the result of the aptly named caterpillar called 'leaf rollers'. 

​Look for wee green caterpillars that hang down from the tree on invisible silken threads. These caterpillars are the larvae of the light brown apple moth. They feed on tender new foliage making the leaves look ragged.

A caterpillar is responsible for rolling the leaf inwards and for all the holes.

This wee green caterpillar is the larvae of an apple moth. It has been caught in the stickiness of a tree band.

The first thing to do is spray the tree thoroughly with the microbial insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt, Thuricide). This organic product kills caterpillars but does not harm beneficial insects, birds, humans, or other organisms.

Bt is most effective on leafroller larvae when they are small (less than 1/2 inch long) and usually requires more than one application. Caterpillars must ingest the pesticide to be killed so spray under the foliage, the ground, trunk etc.

To prevent any caterpillars or other insects from crawling up and infesting apple trees and other susceptible trees, apply tree banding in fall. It's an easy and organic barrier that stops insects in their tracks. For more information go to: Preventing Insects & Diseases.

Another preventative method is applying dormant oil/lime sulfur during the winter when the tree is dormant. Apply it just before bud break in late winter, usually January in our temperate climate of Zone 8. I suggest you purchase the combo now (they are sold together) as they are often not available in January. 

Bacillus thuringiensis is a biological, organic insecticide that only kills caterpillars.

Tree banding prevents insects from crawling up a tree. Place them around tree trunks in the autumn.

Apply a dormant oil solution (horticultural oil and lime sulfur) just before budbreak in spring to kill overwintering pests AND diseases.

Just a quick note on why the insects are attacking the tree in the first place. Although apple trees are known to be buggy, think about how you are taking care of the tree and its location. When planting, loosen the roots with your hands so they will grow into the surrounding soil. Remove any burlap as far as you can without destroying the rootball.

​Trees are often planted too deeply with the trunk flare below the soil line; a tree trunk shouldn't look like it's a pencil stuck in the ground. Grass should not be growing against the trunk; trees should have their own bed or be in a garden bed. And water it. Drought conditions cause all sorts of ill health to plants. Alternately, soggy feet cause rotting. Learn more about Planting Trees.

For more information on garden insects please go to Plant Pests.

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What's the Fluff?

Question: Hi Amanda, I have a weird question for you. I want to know what those fluffy things are flying around as I think I am allergic to them. Every year it's the same thing around this time. Someone told me they are from the cottonwood trees and that is what I am allergic too. Is that true? I guess I am just curious. AK, Surrey
Answer: Hi AK. You are correct, cottonwood trees (poplars) are responsible for those fluffy things. I doubt that they are causing your allergies, as they are actually seeds from the cottonwood trees, and not pollen. It's a common misconception white fluffs flying things flying around are pollen and are causing allergies. Since they are seeds and not pollen, they are not the culprits, so what is flowering now? Grass is. Lots of people are allergic to grass pollen, so methinks that's the cause for all the sneezing... achoo! ​

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Pruning Sages

Question:Hi, I have had a sage plant in my back yard for a few years. I wanted to know the most recommended way of taking care of it. Over the winter it sits there with dried leaves, and then new leaves come from other places in the spring. Do I snap off the dry dead leaves and stems? When to do it? Before the winter, during winter, or spring time. Please, any detailed advice on taking care of this would be appreciated. I dont know the variety, but its a larger oval type leaf. THANKS I also have a Gogi berry bush, which has been wonderful and comes back every year for 3 yrs. I was told that its not really goji berry but its probably wolfberry. Is there a way I can tell which one it is? thx
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Answer: Concerning your sage plant, it is normal for sage plants to suffer from some winter damage as they are more adapted to a Mediterranean climate. All you have to do is cut off the damaged growth in April. Usually I would say March, but we've had some frosty March weather in the past few years. Use scissors or pruning shears for a nice clean cut to remove all the dead stems and foliage. The plant should regrow from the existing stems and roots.

Goji berries and wolfberries are the same thing, that's the trouble with common names. Many plants have more than one and this is why we use botanical names to eliminate confusion. It's correct botanical name is Lycium barbarum. Glad to hear it is doing so well. You must have a green thumb!
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Christmas Cactus Not Flowering

A Christmas cactus.

The three Holiday Cactus.

Christmas cactus.

Thanksgiving cactus

Question: Hi Amanda,
How come my Christmas cactus didn't flower at Christmas?  
Kathy
Answer:
Hi Kathy, I’ve also had a few Christmas cacti that didn’t flower at the right time or not at all. The reason why was because I was not providing adequate darkness at night and not restricting their water at the right time of year. It’s not difficult to give them what they need to set bud, but you do have to mindful.

In October, allow the top inch of soil to dry before watering and keep them in total darkness for 12 to 14 hours. Cool evening temperatures also spur on blossoms, although I've found it's not essential. After 6 to 8 weeks pink buds should be on the ends of their leafy stems. Once in the plant has lots of buds, increase its water and don’t worry about keeping the lights off at night - but don’t move it to another location as this is a sure-fire way to make them all fall off  – oh my! Bud drop and a lack of flowers may also be caused by full sun. Surprisingly, these succulents from the jungles of Brazil don't like to be in full sun; they'd rather have bright filtered sun.

There also could be another reason your Christmas cactus doesn’t flower at Christmas besides their care. Read more... maybe it isn’t a Christmas cactus at all! It could be one of its cousins the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaetneri) or the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata). Thanksgiving cactus flower in fall, about a month before the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii). Easter cactus bud in February and flower around Easter. There are also hybrids, which are a combination of any two of them, especially the Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus.
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Although all these holiday cacti and flower look the same, they are not identical. All bear similar leaves, which are actually stems that look like links on a chain. The Christmas cactus leaves are the smallest and have the smoothest edges. The Thanksgiving cactus leaf edges are hooked, resembling claws hence their other common names, the lobster or crab cactus. The leaves tend to be erect and spread out taking up lots of room. The Easter cactus distinguishing feature on their stems is the bristle-like hairs between the leaf segments.

Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus flowers are very similar, but the Christmas cactus anthers are a brownish purple. The anthers of the Thanksgiving cactus are yellow. The Easter cactus has a totally different flower resembling a star. They all require similar care to promote flowering. Give them 12 to 14 of darkness and limit their water for two months before they are supposed to flower. 

All holiday cactus are easy to propagate. Just snap off a a leaf and stick in a pot with sterile soil or vermiculite. 
So to avoid confusion, next time you decide to purchase one of these beautiful holiday cacti, keep its label. 

I hope this helps. Good luck.
Amanda

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Christmas tree Care

Question: Hi Amanda, do you have any tips on keeping a cut Christmas tree so it keeps its needles? L.D.
Answer: Great question. A dried out Christmas tree is not only a disappointing mess and ugly, it's also a fire hazard. When selecting a tree, make sure it is not already dried out. Needles should still be pliable, and stay on the branch when handled. A good test is to pick up the tree and while holding it, drop it. If you are left with a denuded Charlie Brown tree, then it is already dried out so look for another.   

As soon as you get the tree home, cut off a couple of inches off the trunk. Stem tissues quickly close, preventing the intake of water. Once the trunk is cut, place it in a bucket of warm water. Let it sit there overnight so it can drink as much as it can before putting it in its tree stand. And don’t forget to refill that tree stand daily. I like to keep a watering can nearby for the convenience and so I don't forget. 

And it just makes total sense to keep the tree away from vents, fireplaces and candles of course. Here's to a safe Christmas and no Charlie Brown trees going up in flames. 
Cheers,
Amanda

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What's the Matter with My Laurel?

Question: Hi Amanda,
Do you know what happened to this laurel? Any light you can shed would be most welcome. Che
Answer: The browning of the leaves around the edges is either fertilizer burn or drought. After such a dry summer, it’s probably drought. Even tough laurels suffer with weeks upon weeks without water, especially in the heat. Be attentive to your trees and shrubs and water them before they start to wilt and show signs of distress. 
​
At this point, no control is necessary or warranted as the soil is moist with fall rains. New leaves will replace the old. 
Cheers,
Amanda

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What Bug is this?

A silverfish feeds on many things, but is no threat to plants.

Question: What is this thing ? See em on our school floors all the time and around sinks guessing some kinda water larvae.
​T. Sully
Answer: Silverfish flat, wingless insects bear 2 long antennas on a slender oval bodies covered with metallic-like silver scales. Adults are about 1cm and have small white oval eggs. These scavengers are similar to mini-vacuums as they eat crumbs, dead insects, paper, wallpaper, wallpaper glue and starch. They love basements, bathrooms, inbetween walls, subfloors, crevices, books and starched clothing. Silverfish like it damp too and cool so you will find them in bathrooms and under kitchen sinks.

To get rid of silverfish cleaning up is important, especially vacuuming to remove debris that attracts them. Clean where they lurk and hide. Fix any leaky faucets, pipes and ventilate bathrooms.

These insects are nocturnal, so place traps out at night where you have seen them. Trap silverfish with a glass jar wrapped with masking tape on the outside all the way from top to bottom. Place some bread at the bottom of the jar. The silverfish will climb up the outside of the jar to get to the bread. When they fall inside, they are unable to get out the smooth glass sides of the jar.  
Another method is to roll up newspapers and secure the ends with elastic bands. Wet the entire roll of newspaper and set it where you’ve seen the silverfish. In the morning, throw the newspapers away with the insects inside. 

There are other methods as well, like diatomaceous earth and borax, but these two traps mean no chemicals and are easy peasy.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Amanda

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