New Lawns
& Renovating Existing Ones
Amanda's Garden Consulting Company
This page Includes: |
More on Lawns |
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Planting a New Lawn
Seeding a Lawn
Laying Sod Renovating Existing Lawns |
Planting a New Lawn
Healthy green grass.
Whether you just bought a new home or you have given up on your existing lawn, the promise of a lush green lawn is not only enticing, it's doable.
Timing: When planting a new lawn or renovating an existing one, do so in fall or spring. During the shoulder seasons, temperatures are cool and it’s wet. The ideal time is in the autumn when tree leaves change colour. The cool conditions partnered with the soil warmed by the summer sun, promotes root growth. Grass plants are also going into their winter dormancy, which means their above ground growth is slowing down, while their roots continue to establish themselves into the surrounding soil.
Spring planting is second best, but do it in early in spring. The longer you wait the closer to summer and extreme conditions, which makes it difficult for seed and sod to be successful. Plus it is more work as sufficient watering is key for the roots and plants to grow. Summer heat and drought are stressful for our northern grasses, plus they go dormant when temperatures rise.
Timing: When planting a new lawn or renovating an existing one, do so in fall or spring. During the shoulder seasons, temperatures are cool and it’s wet. The ideal time is in the autumn when tree leaves change colour. The cool conditions partnered with the soil warmed by the summer sun, promotes root growth. Grass plants are also going into their winter dormancy, which means their above ground growth is slowing down, while their roots continue to establish themselves into the surrounding soil.
Spring planting is second best, but do it in early in spring. The longer you wait the closer to summer and extreme conditions, which makes it difficult for seed and sod to be successful. Plus it is more work as sufficient watering is key for the roots and plants to grow. Summer heat and drought are stressful for our northern grasses, plus they go dormant when temperatures rise.
Early spring and fall are good times to install and renovate lawns.
Suitable conditions for Happy Lawns
This lawn is receiving adequate light in dappled sun.
As the old adage goes ‘right plant, right place’. If the conditions are not conducive to growing a lawn, reconsider. Don’ fight nature, as she always wins.
Good drainage is absolutely essential so if you have a swamp, consider putting in a pond, rain garden, bog garden, deck, planters, raised beds or install a French drain to take the water away. To learn more about French drains, click here.
When moss and mold dominate a garden, it indicates that there’s too much shade, usually combined with lack of air circulation and moist conditions. Grass needs at least four hours of direct sunshine, or six hours of filtered sunshine per day. Without adequate light, the lawn will struggle and moss will finally win the fight. A shade garden is a much better option, or plant groundcover. There’s many option available for sun and for shade. To learn more about ground covers, click here.
Good drainage is absolutely essential so if you have a swamp, consider putting in a pond, rain garden, bog garden, deck, planters, raised beds or install a French drain to take the water away. To learn more about French drains, click here.
When moss and mold dominate a garden, it indicates that there’s too much shade, usually combined with lack of air circulation and moist conditions. Grass needs at least four hours of direct sunshine, or six hours of filtered sunshine per day. Without adequate light, the lawn will struggle and moss will finally win the fight. A shade garden is a much better option, or plant groundcover. There’s many option available for sun and for shade. To learn more about ground covers, click here.
Avoid growing a lawn on slopes as they are difficult to mow and water.
Prepare the Soil
Rake soil level once compost has been mixed into the existing soil bed.
Lawns don’t have an easy life, so the more we can do to prepare them for what nature and people throw at them, the better they are. Soil preparation is an important first step to ensure lawns can handle torrential rain, droughts, frequent mowing, insects, diseases, and people traffic such as walking and playing.
Do a soil test first to determine your soil pH, especially if there are no weeds popping up. When weeds fail to thrive, it’s a good indication that there’s a problem, which is usually incorrect pH. Home tests kits are not too accurate, so send soil samples to a local soil test lab.
Do a soil test first to determine your soil pH, especially if there are no weeds popping up. When weeds fail to thrive, it’s a good indication that there’s a problem, which is usually incorrect pH. Home tests kits are not too accurate, so send soil samples to a local soil test lab.
Keep off a newly seeded lawn until it is well established.
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Sod is quick and easy to install.
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Seed or Sod?
It’s expensive to sod an entire lawn, and newly seeded lawn isn't user friendly. A good compromise is to sod the front garden sow grass seeds the back yard. A newly sodded lawn is similar to laying a carpet as you can walk on it straight away. It’s also less work as you don’t have to ensure seeds don’t dry out. Seeded lawns are more maintenance and more stressful to get them established, but they are much less expensive than sod. This is why its common practice for front lawns to be sodded, but back lawns are seeded.
Sod is an 'instant' lawn, but it is more expensive than seed.
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Seeding a lawn takes more care and time before it can be used.
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Sowing Lawn Seed
This premium grass seed also contains a starter fertilizer.
- Measure: Measure the area you want to seed. To find the square footage by measuring the length of the yard and times it by the width.
- Seed selection: The type of grass seed depends on how much sun and shade it receives. Select a mix.
- Clean: Remove debris, weeds and rocks.
- Combine: Rototill preferably 6 inches of garden loam or compost. Don’t add sand, especially to clay soils as it creates concrete. No matter what kind of soil you have, add compost as it improves all soil types.
- Rake: Level and grade the soil so it slopes gently (1 to 2%) from the house and other buildings. Remove any dips or raised areas.
- Slopes: Avoid steep slopes as they are difficult to mow and water. If the area is sloped, consider installing tiered beds and/or plant groundcovers and forgo a lawn.
- Apply lime: If you are going to add lime, do so before you sow the grass seed. Use a slow release gentle lime such as Dolopril compared to quick acting hydrated lime (the cheap stuff). Follow the manufactures instructions when applying.
- Wait or roll: Wait for a week for the soil to settle or roll with a light roller. Don’t put water in the roller as it compacts the soil.
- Water: the day before sowing the seeds, use a sprinkler to water the area so it penetrates to at least 2 inches.
- Starter fertilizer: Spread a starter fertilizer with a high middle number (phosphorus) according to directions. Don’t apply if the grass seeds includes a starter fertilizer. Click here to learn what the three numbers mean on fertilizer labels.
- Sow seeds: Use a spreader to sow half of the seeds in one direction and the other half in the other direction to ensure even coverage.
- Rake: use a spring tine rake, not a leaf or garden rake to lightly cover the seeds.
- Roll. Use a light roller to firm the seed into the soil. Don’t fill it with water as it compacts the soil.
- Water: use a sprinkler to apply a gentle flow of water two to three times a day for about 15 minutes depending on the conditions.
- Keep off: Avoid any foot traffic on the newly seeded area.
- Water Schedule: When seeds germinate, taper off the water to once a day then every two days etc., until you reach normal frequency of once to twice a week. When the lawn is established, it should receive 1 inch twice a week and at least one inch of water a week when watering restrictions are in affect. Don’t allow the lawn to dry out!
- Mowing: Once the lawn reaches a height of 3 inches, cut just an inch off.
- Fertilize: In six weeks, apply a high nitrogen fertilizer either slow release or organic. Avoid fast acting chemical types. To learn more about the different types of fertilizers click here. For more on organic plant food, click here.
Some grass seed contains starter fertilizer.
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Use a spreader to spread lawn seed and fertilizers.
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Laying Sod
Inspect sod deliveries before they unload, just in case there is a problem with the quality.
Purchasing Sod: Inspect before buying. All the sod pieces should be at least 1 inch thick, with interlocking, established roots. Many sod farms grow their sod on a mesh, which helps hold the grass plants together even though the roots are not woven together. The mesh doesn’t degrade over time, making it difficult to aerate and to remove if you want to convert the lawn to a garden. It’s not a recommended practice, however it seems to becoming more common.
Inspect the sod by touching and feeling the roots; they should be moist and not dry. Dried out sod is less likely to take root. Examine the roots for eating insects including lawn grubs. Next, assess the grass blades. They should be blemish free, green with no yellowing. Tug on some of the grass blades. They should stay firm and not come away. There shouldn’t be any weeds, either.
Ordering sod: Order the sod a day before you intend to install it.
Sod arrival: Inspect the sod before it is unloaded as once it is unloaded it is yours and they won’t take it back. Make sure it is what you ordered and not dried out.
Protect the sod: Water the sod, while it’s still on pallet, then cover with a tarp. Avoid placing it in full sun as you don’t want the sod pieces to dry out and wet it down daily.
Inspect the sod by touching and feeling the roots; they should be moist and not dry. Dried out sod is less likely to take root. Examine the roots for eating insects including lawn grubs. Next, assess the grass blades. They should be blemish free, green with no yellowing. Tug on some of the grass blades. They should stay firm and not come away. There shouldn’t be any weeds, either.
Ordering sod: Order the sod a day before you intend to install it.
Sod arrival: Inspect the sod before it is unloaded as once it is unloaded it is yours and they won’t take it back. Make sure it is what you ordered and not dried out.
Protect the sod: Water the sod, while it’s still on pallet, then cover with a tarp. Avoid placing it in full sun as you don’t want the sod pieces to dry out and wet it down daily.
Lay sod as soon as possible and don't let it dry out.
- Measure: Measure the area you want to sod. To find the square footage by measuring the length of the yard and times it by the width then add 5% extra.
- Clean: Remove debris, weeds and rocks.
- Combine: Rototill preferably 6 inches of garden loam or compost. Don’t add sand, especially to clay soils as it creates concrete. No matter what kind of soil you have, add compost as it improves all soil types.
- Rake: Level and grade the soil so it slopes gently (1 to 2%) from the house and other buildings. Remove any dips or raised areas.
- Slopes: Avoid steep slopes as they are difficult to mow and water. If the area is sloped, consider installing tiered beds and/or plant groundcovers and forgo a lawn.
- Apply lime: If you are going to add lime, do so before you sow the grass seed. Use a slow release gentle lime such as Dolopril compared to quick acting hydrated lime (the cheap stuff). Follow the manufactures instructions when applying.
- Wait or roll: Wait for a week for the soil to settle or roll with a light roller. Don’t put water in the roller as it compacts the soil.
- Water: the day before sowing the seeds, use a sprinkler to water the area so it penetrates to at least 2 inches.
- Starter fertilizer: Spread a starter fertilizer with a high middle number (phosphorus) according to directions. Don’t apply if the grass seeds includes a starter fertilizer.
- Lay the sod 1st row: place the first row of sod against the edge of a path, driveway, patio etc.
- Subsequent rows: Start the second row with sod piece cut in half and lay it against the first row, so the pieces are staggered. This helps stabilize the sod and eliminates trenches forming at the seams. As you lay the sod, don’t sit or step on the soil, instead kneel and step on the sod as you want to keep the soil level without any dips.
- Edges: Use a utility or carpet knife to fit the sod around the perimeter of the lawn, where it meets the driveway, paths etc. Avoid small pieces especially against paths, beds and hardscaping as they will dry out too quickly.
- Tight fit: Abut the edges together tightly. If there are any gaps the pieces of sod will curl upwards and won’t knit to the adjoining sod.
- Roll: Use a lawn roller to roll the lawn flat so the roots connect with the soil. Avoid using a really heavy roller as it compacts the soil.
- Water: Use a sprinkler to apply an adequate amount of water so it penetrates past the roots and into the soil about an inch. After 30 minutes to an hour, lift up a corner of the sod to see how far the water has penetrated. Move the sprinklers to ensure all parts of the newly laid sod has been thoroughly irrigated.
- Watering schedule: Keep sod moist by applying an inch of water in the mornings, daily for a week. Avoid watering late in the evening as it promotes diseases. Reduce the amount of water if it starts to puddle. On the second week, water every other day. By the third week, water twice a week, then further reduce watering so it receives one inch a week – no less!
- Mowing: Wait for at least 10 days to mow the grass, when it’s roughly 3 inches tall. Avoid using a heavy riding mower, and bag the clippings.
- Fertilize: After a month to 6 weeks use a high nitrogen slow release or organic fertilizer. To learn more about the different types of fertilizers click here. For more on organic plant food, click here. For more on fertilizer ratios, click here.
- Foot traffic: Take it easy on newly laid sod until it is firmly knitted into the soil.
Keep foot traffic to a minimum on newly laid sod.
Lawn Renovations
This lawn can be saved despite the deep tire ruts made by a heavy truck.
There’s many reasons why a lawn needs a makeover: diseases, insects, drought, overuse, too many chemicals, unsuitable growing conditions and poor and/or incorrect maintenance.
Improving soil conditions and changing incorrect maintenance practices go a long way to keep a lawn healthy. If you want to avoid renovating your lawn, try changing your maintenance practices first. Give it a full year to see if this works. Correct maintenance practices include mowing high, mowing weekly during the growing season, not cutting too much off at one time, leaving grass clippings on the lawn, providing adequate water and avoiding fast acting synthetic nitrogen fertilizer, you may not need to renovate after all. For more on garden maintenance click here.
If you do decide to renovate your lawn, do so in the fall when the rains return, tree leaves turn colour and the nights are cool. The next best time is early spring, around March in southern British Columbia. Avoid renovations too early in the spring or too late in the autumn when the lawn is over saturated and squishy with an abundance of rain.
Improving soil conditions and changing incorrect maintenance practices go a long way to keep a lawn healthy. If you want to avoid renovating your lawn, try changing your maintenance practices first. Give it a full year to see if this works. Correct maintenance practices include mowing high, mowing weekly during the growing season, not cutting too much off at one time, leaving grass clippings on the lawn, providing adequate water and avoiding fast acting synthetic nitrogen fertilizer, you may not need to renovate after all. For more on garden maintenance click here.
If you do decide to renovate your lawn, do so in the fall when the rains return, tree leaves turn colour and the nights are cool. The next best time is early spring, around March in southern British Columbia. Avoid renovations too early in the spring or too late in the autumn when the lawn is over saturated and squishy with an abundance of rain.
lawn Renovation steps
Set the mower to its lowest setting.
Mow: Set the mower on its lowest setting and bag the clippings as you go.
Apply lime. Avoid fast acting lime, instead select slow release such as Dolopril according to the directions.
Aerate: Use a core aerator to pierce the grass through to the soil below. This allows water and air to penetrate to the grass roots, while increasing drainage. Aerators are heavy cumbersome machines, so I suggest that you hire someone that has their own machine to do the job for you.
Soil cores: Leave the cores on the soil as they will decompose to further benefit the soil and grass plants. Rake: Use a metal tine lawn rake to rake the lawn against the grain so it is more erect.
Starter fertilizer: Apply a fertilizer with the second number (phosphorus) is highest (ex: 6-8-6). Note that some seed mixes include starter fertilizer. If that is the case, do not add more fertilizer.
Seed: Use a spreader to sow half the lawn seeds in one direction, and the other half in the other direction.
Water: Use a sprinkler to irrigate gently but thoroughly for about 15 to 30 minutes.
Topdress: Spread a fine compost or good loam over the lawn, no more than one inch in depth.
Water again: Ensure the newly sown seeds do not dry out or else they won’t germinate. This is why lawn renovations are best done in spring and fall when conditions are cool and wet.
Apply lime. Avoid fast acting lime, instead select slow release such as Dolopril according to the directions.
Aerate: Use a core aerator to pierce the grass through to the soil below. This allows water and air to penetrate to the grass roots, while increasing drainage. Aerators are heavy cumbersome machines, so I suggest that you hire someone that has their own machine to do the job for you.
Soil cores: Leave the cores on the soil as they will decompose to further benefit the soil and grass plants. Rake: Use a metal tine lawn rake to rake the lawn against the grain so it is more erect.
Starter fertilizer: Apply a fertilizer with the second number (phosphorus) is highest (ex: 6-8-6). Note that some seed mixes include starter fertilizer. If that is the case, do not add more fertilizer.
Seed: Use a spreader to sow half the lawn seeds in one direction, and the other half in the other direction.
Water: Use a sprinkler to irrigate gently but thoroughly for about 15 to 30 minutes.
Topdress: Spread a fine compost or good loam over the lawn, no more than one inch in depth.
Water again: Ensure the newly sown seeds do not dry out or else they won’t germinate. This is why lawn renovations are best done in spring and fall when conditions are cool and wet.
A lawn after core aeration.
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Leave the cores on the lawn.
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Good luck with your new lawn!