Healthy Roots = Healthy Lawns

Lovely grass covered with morning dew.

Healthy, vigorous and abundant grass roots are essential to a healthy and stress tolerant lawn; and this is the perfect time of year to make that happen. Lots of fibrous roots that delve deep into the soil produce a lush, green lawn that’s better prepared to combat environmental stresses, including lawn grubs.

To promote deep roots, use an aerator once a year either in spring or fall. This machine, which you can rent or hire someone to do the job, removes 2 inch or longer cores from the turf. Core aeration provides channels for water and air to penetrate. Keep the cores on the grass, as they will quickly decompose adding valuable nutrients back into the soil.
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Do not power rake as it destroys the lawn causing more harm than good, no matter what the companies that sell this service say. It rips up the little grass plants by their crowns (where the roots meet the stems) and removes all the thatch, which is not a good thing. Turf grass needs ¼ to ½ inch layer of thatch to insulate the soil against temperature extremes, it also retains soil moisture, lessens soil compaction from foot traffic and lawn mower wheels, reduce weeds and it provides food for beneficial soil inhabitants.

Leave the cores of sod and soil after core aeration as they will decompose.

After aerating, add organic goodies to the surface of the lawn. This practice is called ‘topdressing’. Use sifted compost, Sea Soil, rich loam or a garden mix high in organic matter, not sand. Why no sand you ask? Well, when sand is combined with clay it creates concrete. It also doesn’t add any nutrients to the soil or benefit the soil ecology. It does allow better water infiltration, but only if it is mixed in to the soil. It does the reverse when laid on top of the grass as it prevents the water infiltrating below. Compost and other organic matter improves soil structure, reduces compaction, improves water retention, reduces the need for fertilizer, eases thatch build up and feeds the soil microorganisms. 

You can purchase a special soil mix to apply to the surface of your existing lawn then add seed where grass is sparse.

It is not necessary to aerate the lawn, but aeration does allow for deeper penetration of any topdressing. Apply half inch to an inch of sifted compost, well-rotted aged manure, or a garden mix on top of the grass with a shovel. Lightly brush the topdressing material into the lawn with the back of a rake.  If the lawn is sparse, consider sowing grass seeds, but before you do, apply a high phosphorous fertilizer (middle number is the highest) to the lawn. Then sow the grass seed according to the instructions.  Water after applying and keep seeds moist until they germinate. 

Corn gluten kills germinating weed seeds, but is organic and adds nitrogen. Don't use when seeding though.

To prevent weed seeds from germinating, apply corn gluten meal to lawns. Avoid applying to areas where grass seed or other desirable seeds have been sown as it will kill them too. Since corn gluten also contains a bit of nitrogen, the grass will green up a bit too.

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Repairing the Lawn: Renovations, Seeding and Sodding

Renovate lawns in spring and fall.

Seed, re-seed or lay sod while the weather is still cool and rainy. If you do it now, well before summer, you'll have more success. Grass roots will easily grow into the moist, cool soil, which are ideal conditions for our cool season grasses. Spring rains keep the soil moist for germinating seeds and improves penetration of grass roots into the soil.

Spring and fall is the time to sow grass seed on any bare, sparse spots. Select a quality seed for either shade or sun depending on the conditions. Before sowing the seed, add some compost and high phosphorous fertilizer (middle number the highest) and mix it into the soil. Add the grass seed and keep moist until the seeds germinate or else they will keel over and die. ​

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Mossy Lawns

These conditions are great for moss, but not for grass!

Moss infiltrates lawns because the growing conditions are more suitable for the moss than the grass. That is the cold, hard truth. It is not the moss's fault, nor the lawn's. 

To get rid of the moss, the conditions need to change to benefit the turfgrass, not the moss. Applying moss killer is just a temporary fix. Sure, the moss will die after it is applied, but it will come back again if everything stays the same. So what makes moss happy? It thrives in acidic (5.0 to 5.5 pH), compacted, moist soil in the shade. What does grass like? Generally, turf grasses prefer a slightly acidic soil, 6.0 to 6.9 pH, 6 hours of direct sun per day and good drainage with a nice balanced diet. Moss likes to live lean, grass doesn’t; it needs to be fed. Read more....

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Liming the Lawn

Dolopril lime is a safer product than regular hydrated lime.

It is best to do pH test before liming the lawn. This is especially important if you always lime and the grass is still not doing well. If the grass is sparse and even weeds don't grow, then definitely get the soil tested. 

​Be cautious when using lime, read the instructions, don't apply 'extra'. Use prilled dolomite lime (Dolopril) rather than the regular hydrated lime or even the dolomite lime. Prilled lime has a coating that slowly dissolves releasing the lime slowly into the soil. Because it is coated it is less caustic therefore gentler to the soil and it's easier to apply than the powdery, non-prilled types.

Avoid applying fertilizer (especially synthetic) and lime together as the nitrogen in the fertilizer converts to a gas. Wait three weeks between applications.

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Mowing

Mulching mowers reduce the need for fertilizers as the clippings break down providing food for the plants.

​Try to remove only 1/3rd of growth at a time. This means you will have to mow at least weekly when the grass is happy and actively growing in spring and fall. Sorry about that! It really does make a difference to the lawn appearance and health.
Avoid mowing the lawn when it is wet. I can hear the laughter now since we live where rain usually in the forecast, but if you have the option of mowing on a wet day or dry one, pick the latter. Mowing wet grass spreads diseases, compacts the soil and the mower blades don’t cut the grass blades cleanly. Set your mower at 2 ½ to 3 inches, no shorter. The grass needs all the food it can get and those grass blades are there to provide it.

Use a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the lawn as it provides natural and organic nitrogen. It certainly easier than bagging the clippings and dumping them elsewhere and reduces the need for fertilizers.

Lawnmower Care

​It’s a good idea to service the lawn mower before you start mowing. Clean the machine removing cobwebs, any leftover grass from last year and any other debris if you didn’t do so last fall. For gas mowers, ensure cables, screws and other fasteners are secure. Disconnect the wire leading to spark plugs then remove them. Clean any filters or replace with a new one if necessary. Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil. Replace the plug and refill with the oil recommended in the owner’s manual. Remove the blades and sharpen or take to a professional sharpener. Clean the underside of the mower while the blade is off. Replace the sparkplugs and attach wire. Brush off debris off the wheels for easier maneuvering and better traction. For electric mowers, clean off debris, sharpen blades and clean the wheels. For all mowers refer to the manufacturer’s manual for specific maintenance and care. ​

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Fertilizing the Lawn

This organic fertilizer feeds all parts of the grass plant and is good for summer so spread on the lawn and the garden beds.

It's perfectly fine to use a garden fertilizer for your lawn as long as it has the right fertilizer ratio. This fertilizer is high in phosphorus for root growth, but will also stimulate leaves and hardiness.

High nitrogen fertilizers are often used on lawns in early spring for a fast green-up. Grass leaves grow with gay abandon turning the lawn in a lush green blanket. However, that beauty is only leaf deep, as it comes at the expense of the roots. The developing, spring roots strain to keep up with the demands of the excessive leaf growth. This makes the lawn vulnerable to drought, heat and other environmental stresses, which promotes chafer beetles and other lawn pests and diseases.

Spring is the best time feed the roots - not the foliage. Apply a low nitrogen, organic or a slow release fertilizer high in phosphorus, the middle number on fertilizer labels. Most starter fertilizers are high in phosphorus, but don't let the name dissuade you - as it's just a name. It is the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash that is relevant.

Wait to use a high nitrogen fertilizer until May (first number on fertilizer labels is the highest). By that time the roots will be able to supply all that leafy growth with adequate food and water. 

Before purchasing plant food read labels and compare. Plants need more than the 3 basic elements. Look for ones with micronutrients and mycorrhizal inoculants to promote a healthy green lawn, as well as a healthy soil. 

Be wary of synthetic fertilizers as they harm soil microorganisms, thereby depleting the soil of life making it inert. These soil organisms provide nitrogen and other nutrients to plants and are essential to plant and soil health.

If you want healthy soil (and strong grass) stay away from synthetic, fast acting fertilizers. They break down organic matter (compost, leaves etc.) much faster than organic and slow release fertilizers. It's the organic matter that provides food to the microorganisms, which in turn, produces food for the grass plants. 

Fertilizers that stimulates roots are high in the middle number, phosphorus. Use in early spring and when seeding and sodding.

This lawn food is a winterizer type as it is high in potash, the last number. It will make the grass hardier. Use in on other plants too, especially newly planted ones.

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Watering Lawns

Probably not needed to add additional water this time of year in British Columbia, but just in case water in the mornings, once or twice per week when needed. Generally, lawns should receive one inch of water per week.