Bush bean seedlings. Photo Amanda Jarrett
Many crops do well when their seeds are sown directly outside where they will grow.
Sowing Seeds Outdoors - Direct Seeding or Starting Indoors - Plants Suitable for Direct Seeding -
When and How to Direct Seed - Cool Season Crops - Warm Season Crops - Sowing Seeds Outside
When and How to Direct Seed - Cool Season Crops - Warm Season Crops - Sowing Seeds Outside
Sowing Seeds Outdoors
Peas are easy peasy to start from seed.
Bean seeds can be sown inside or directly sown outside, after the danger of frost has past.
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One of the easiest ways to figure out which seeds should be sown inside and which ones are best planted outside, is to read the seed packet. It’s one of your best resources for information and your guide for planting that specific seed. Most seed packets identifies the plant, whether it's an annual or a perennial, it's size, growth habit (vine, bush etc.), it's preferred growing conditions, maintenance, when it should be planted, whether it should be sown outside or inside, the depth and spacing of the seed at planting, and days to maturity. Westcoast Seeds and Renee Seeds, Heritage Harvest Seeds provide great planting information and a vast array of seeds. For a list of seed catalogues, click here.
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Corn seeds can be started either indoors or directly planted outside.
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Direct Seeding or Starting Indoors
The term ‘direct seeding’ means to sow the seeds outside in the soil where they are to grow. Some seeds can be started both inside and outside such as cucumbers, sunflowers, beans, sweet peas and corn. Starting seeds indoors also gives you more control over their environment: temperature, soil moisture, lighting and there's no slugs, cutworms or bugs! However some plants don’t transplant well as they have tap roots that are easily damaged such as carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips and other root crops. Plants Suitable for Direct Seeding Below is a list of plants suited to direct seed. Ones with an asterisk* can be sown earlier indoors, then hardened off and planted outside as transplants. As always, refer to the seed packet to when and how they should be planted. *corn,*cucumbers, *beans, *squashes (zucchini, acorn, cucumbers, watermelon, cantaloupe), *peas, *broccoli, *cauliflower, *Brussels sprouts, *chard, *lettuce, *onions, shallots, chives, *celery, radishes, carrots, parsnips, dill, beets, rutabaga |
When and How to Direct Seed
Read seed packages to know when and how to sow specific seeds.
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Check the soil temperature and moisture content before sowing seeds outside in spring. To make sure the ground is not too soggy, grab a handful and squeeze. If it drips water, delay planting until your soil no longer weeps. Another way to tell conditions are suitable, check to see if the weeds are growing. If they are, then it's a good sign that conditions are improving. Sowing seeds when the ground is too wet and soggy results in them rotting, and much disappointment. Germination rates are highest when the soil temperature is at the optimum range for that crop. Because this is so important for successful germination, crops are categorized according to their temperature preference: cool season crops and warm season crops.
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Cool and warm season crops
Dwarf Grey Sugar Heirloom can be planted as early as February.
Cool Season Crops
Cool season crops prefer cool temperatures and are best sown early in the season. They germinate and grow best with temperatures of 15 to about 18 degrees C (60 to 65 F). They tolerate light frosts, but fade quickly when the mercury rises. Heat promotes bolting and bitter foliage of lettuce and other cool greens, while peas fail to flower or they ripen so fast, they aren’t sweet. Sow peas, lettuce and their chilly counterparts out as early as February in temperate climates like the Pacific Northwest. Cool Season Crops: arugula, broad (fava) beans, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, collards, carrots, cauliflower, celery (mild winters), chard, fennel, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, pak and bok choy, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, coriander, cilantro, garlic cloves, endive |
Plant red runner pole beans after frost has passed.
Warm Season Crops:
Once the danger of frost has passed, plant tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, corns, beans and other warm season crops that are easily killed by frost. Quick growing hot crops such as cucumbers, melons, corns and beans can be sown outside after the danger of frost has past, however, tomatoes and peppers are best sown indoors to ensure a bountiful harvest before the weather cools and rain returns in autumn. Seeds need temps above 10° C, (50° F), and will rot in cold soil of 12 °C (53° F) or less. If it is too cold they won't grow, flowering is delayed or they will drop off without being pollinated, which delays fruit formation. In the Pacific Northwest, sow the seeds of warm season crops in the late April to the beginning of May. The rest of the Canada plants on the traditional planting day of Victoria Day long weekend, generally around May 24. Warm Season Crops: bush and pole beans, celery, cucumbers, soybeans, eggplant, peanuts, corn, melons, okra, peppers, pumpkins, squash, tomato, zucchini, basil |
Seed tape is easy way to sow seeds especially carrots and other tiny seeds. No thinning required.
Basil is a warm season crop and should be sown inside.
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Some seeds can be sown directly outside, like these French fillet bush beans.
Cool temperatures result in flower drop tomatoes and other warm season crops.
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Sowing Seeds Outside
Peas soaking overnight will speed up their germination.
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Remove debris, weeds and large rocks. Add a couple of inches of compost, SeaSoil and/or well-rotted manure. Mix it in to the first 6 inches of the soil. Rake the soil smooth and break up any clumps then water well. Wait a week for everything to settle then get ready to sow some seeds. It's a good idea to pre-write the plant labels and place them in the seed packages. Water thoroughly the day before planting especially if the soil is dry. Make a furrow to the depth required with a hoe, trowel, your hand or the end of a rake handle. To speed up germination, pre-soak large seeds such as peas, beans, sweet peas, cucumbers and corn by placing them in a dish of water for a couple of hours before planting.
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To sow fine seeds, put them your palm and 'pinch' up a few seeds with your forefinger and thumb. For really small seeds add some sand or another larger seed such as a combination of carrots and radish seeds. Cover with soil according to the seed packet instructions. Firm the soil with the back of the rake, a board or your hand.
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To reduce the need for thinning crowded seedlings, combine radish and carrot seeds when sowing.
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Once seeds are sown, keep the soil moist. Once they have germinated, thin seedlings so the remaining ones have room to grow.
Water ever so gently, but thoroughly. You may have to water twice a day if it is hot, sunny and/or windy. Thin seedlings, once they emerge, if they are too crowded. Remove the weaker ones so the strong will survive. Check the seed packet to find the recommended distance between the plants. It's a good idea to moisten the soil first before you do the dirty deed. Either pull them out using a chopstick or pencil, or use small nail scissors to cut off them off. This method is more precise, and doesn't disturb the roots of the remaining seedlings. Firm the soil and give them a drink.
Protecting Seeds Outdoors
It’s exciting when seeds germinate, but heartbreaking when the die overnight or they just disappear. Slimy trails are clues that snails or slugs have feasted on the tender seedlings. Severed seedlings are victims of cutworms while birds use your garden as their own personal feeder. Birds love to feed newly planted seeds. Here are some ways to help protect them from all those hungry predators.
Birds: To prevent birds from feasting on seeds, cover them with a cloche or a spun-bonded polyester floating row cover. You could use clear plastic but it doesn’t allow air and water to filter through, unlike the fabric. It also has an added advantage of providing a bit of insulation against chilly weather and provides a barrier against flying insect pests. To learn more about cloches click here.
Other options include laying chicken wire or bird netting laid over top of the bed. Shiny things like Mylar balloons and shiny tape also deter birds. Inverted plastic milk crates over vulnerable seedlings also provide an effective barrier.
Other options include laying chicken wire or bird netting laid over top of the bed. Shiny things like Mylar balloons and shiny tape also deter birds. Inverted plastic milk crates over vulnerable seedlings also provide an effective barrier.
Soil Insects: For bugs that live in or on the soil, there are numerous organic solutions that will not contaminate soil and crops. Diatomaceous earth is a common product used to control soft bodied insects. It’s made from fossilized remains of tiny aquatic organisms called diatoms. Composed of silica, they are sharp and dehydrate insects. Reapply according to the manufacturer’s instructions after rain or irrigation and follow all precautions – wear gloves and don’t breathe it in.
Slugs and snails: Sprinkle diatomaceous earth or crushed eggshells on top of the soil where seeds were sown and around the stems of transplants. Reapply after rain. Click here for more on controlling slugs and snails.
Wireworms: They are easy to spot as they are bright orange and shiny. They love to feed on roots, especially grass roots, therefore when removing sod to make a new bed, wait a week. By that time they will have gone to find food elsewhere.
Cutworms: After sowing seeds, apply diatomaceous earth on top of the soil and reapply when it rains. When planting transplants (starter plants), place a toothpick on each side of the stem or wrap a small strip of newspaper around its stem. It’s finicky, but it does work.
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