European hornbeams, Carpinus betulus.
The Garden Website for NOvember
November's Introduction - November's Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog - November Garden Chores
Plant Police - November Lawn Care - Mollusk Watch
Wet Soggy Soils - Plants for Wet Soils - Planter TLC - Hoses, Pipes & Faucets
November Arrangement - Plant of the Month: Wintergreen
Plant Police - November Lawn Care - Mollusk Watch
Wet Soggy Soils - Plants for Wet Soils - Planter TLC - Hoses, Pipes & Faucets
November Arrangement - Plant of the Month: Wintergreen
Our 'panther', Chloe, on look-out atop a Virginia creeper.
November Intro
I’m not too sure how I feel about November. I admit that the end of the gardening season is a relief only because I’ll have more time especially since Christmas is right around the corner – argh! If it ain’t one thing, it’s t’other.
Let’s just hope winter is kind to us this year. If last month is anything to go by, it doesn’t look good. It was a rather chilly October that broke a few records – and the rain – oh the rain! Combined with frosty mornings, it was not the balmy golden October that we are used to on the temperate southern coast of British Columbia. November brings killing frost and sometimes snow, much to the horror of many metro Vancouverites. And when it snows here, it doesn’t mess around. The snowflakes are big, fat fluffy juicy things packed with water. The snow is so heavy it crushes plants and break branches. Regular garden chores take a backseat as the focus shifts to protecting plants from the throes of winter. A globe cedar was so flattened by a snowstorm, I couldn’t get its branches back to where they once belonged. So no matter what November brings, I hope I am ready for the onslaught of snow. And if by chance, our winter is as gentle as a lamb and not a fierce snow monster then there’s no harm done – better safe than sorry! Cheers, Amanda November PLANT COMBO
Chinese Silvergrass and a dwarf evergreen spurge.
Chinese silvergrass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’), and dwarf evergreen spurge (Euphorbia characias ssp. wulfenii) make a good pair for areas that receive full sun to partial shade. They are both tolerant to a wide range of soils and both don't mind dry conditions.
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Amanda's Garden Blog
Check out my blog on my gardening experiments, trials. tribulations and excursions. Click on the items below to be directed to its page.
To subscribe to my blog click here.
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The fluffy seed heads of a Traveler's Joy Clematis (C. vitalba).
November's Garden Stars
Virginia creeper, Parthenocissus quincefolia, clinging, woody deciduous vine, 30ft, blue berries, fall colour, sun to part shade. Zones 3 to 9.
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Abelia Glossy abelia, Abelia x grandiflora, fall flowers, broadleaf evergreen shrub, 4 - 6’ x 5’, sun to part shade. Zones 6 to 9.
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Stewartia pseudocamellia, Japanese Stewartia, deciduous tree, 20 - 40' tall, 10 - 25' wide, sun part shade, attractive bark, white camellia-like flowers June to July. Zones 5-8.
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Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple', Purple smokebush, deciduous shrub, purple summer foliage, fall colour, 10-15’ x 15’- 20’. Sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 8.
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Dwarf winged burning bush, Euonymus alatus 'Compactus', deciduous shrub, 9 to 10' tall and wide, sun to part shade. Zones 4-8.
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Chinese witch hazel, (Hamamelis mollis), deciduous shrub, 10’ to 15' tall and wide, fragrant flowers January to March. Sun to part shade. Zones 5 - 8.
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Japanese spirea, Spiraea japonica, deciduous shrub, 3-4’ tall and wide, sun, light shade, pink flowers in summer to fall, yellow fall foliage, butterflies. Zones 4 to 9.
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Dwarf strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo 'Compacta', broadleaf evergreen, part to full sun, 6 – 8’ x 5 -6’, white blooms & edible red fruit fall thru winter. Zones 7-9.
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American Sweetgum, Liquidambar styraciflua, 60’ – 80’ x 40 – 60’, deciduous tree, fragrant leaves, fall colour. Zones 5 to 9.
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Peruvian lily, Alstroemeria 'Inticancha Kanika', herbaceous perennial, Zones 8 to 9, full sun to part sun.
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Firethorn, Pyracantha coccinea, deciduous shrubby vine, 6’ – 18’ tall & wide, May white flowers, sun to part shade, bears large thorns. Zones 6-9.
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Ornamental kale, biennial, 1’x 15”, sun. Zones 2-9.
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plant police
I suspect someone doesn't like to weed!
What a daunting task it would be to weed this garden. To make it more manageable just work on one foot at a time. It's just like eating an elephant - how do you do it? - one bite at a time. After the bed is weeded, lay a 3 inch layer of an organic mulch to help keep weeds at bay. For horsetail control click here.
Wet Soggy Soils
Too much water combined with bad drainage, clay soil and no mulch leads to a soggy muddy mess. The tree roots are exposed due to the subsequent erosion from the un-mulched soil.
Squishy lawns, pond size puddles and muddy garden beds are par for the course this time of year. To increase the water holding capacity of any soil, including clay and compacted ones, add organic matter (plant residue: compost, leaves, well-rotted manure etc.). They act like a sponge as they absorb moisture. Mix it in well and then add a 3 inch layer of an organic mulch over top of the soil. The mulch acts to protect the soil from the rain and reduces erosion.
Fill in low spots in the garden and lawn with garden soil. Tamp down firmly to level with the surrounding soil. You may have to top it up as the soil settles over time. For serious low spots that fail to drain convert the area to a pond, bog garden or rain garden. Avoid Sand: Although sandy soils drain easily, adding a layer of sand on top of the soil acts as a barrier, preventing water from draining. The only way it helps with drainage is to mix it in thoroughly to the existing soil. Avoid adding sand to clay soils as the combination creates concrete. 
French/trench drains are an effective way to drain soils.
French Drains: For areas that fail to drain divert the water elsewhere by installing a trench. Its simple but very effective and permanent solution. This low tech method removes water from an area by using a trench and gravity. For more info on French drains and How to Drain Soggy Soils click here.
Plants for Wet Soils
Red maples (Acer rubrum) are also named Swamp Maples due to their ability to flourish in wet soils.
Add a few attractive plants that don’t mind wet feet and some will help dry things out: goat’s beard (Aruncus dioicus), Astilbe, water avens (Geum rivale), Gunnera spp., Japanese iris (Iris ensata), Siberian iris (Iris sibirica), Ligularia spp., Rodgersia sp., redtwig dogwood (Cornus sericea), river birch (Betula nigra), swamp maple (Acer rubrum), Persian ironwood (Carpinus persica) and willow (Salix spp.).
Rodgersia (R. pinnata) is a perennial that prefers moist soil, partial shade and grows up to 2ft tall by 3ft wide.
November Lawn Care
If fall leaves aren't too thick, mow them down and leave the nutritious clippings on the lawn.
Keep the lawn free from fallen foliage before winter sets in. If leaves aren't too thick, mow the leaves and allow the shredded foliage to lay on the lawn. They'll provide the lawn with vital nutrients. It's also a beneficial to apply a winterizer fertilizer that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potash (K). The last number must be higher than the other two such as 4-2-8. When mowing, set the mower at 2 to 2.5 inches. Keep off the grass if it is covered with frost as it breaks the frozen crowns of the grass plants off.
Mollusk Watch
Copper mesh is an effective and non toxic way to deal with slugs and snails.
Pick a rainy day or go out at night with a flashlight and a cup of salty water. They are easy to pick off as they come out of hiding to eat. If you are squeamish, trap them with slug bait, but use slug traps. The traps keep the bait dry and prevent animals from eating it. I make my own bait traps with a recycled plastic margarine container. Cut a few windows at the same height around the container, add the slug bait and put the lid on. Bury it in the ground so the bottom of the windows lines up with the soil surface. The slugs and snails will enter the container, eat the bait then die. This method keeps the bait dry and keeps animals including pets from ingesting the bait. For more on snail and slug control click here.
Get out the slug bait as it is slug and snail season.
Planter TLC
Protect the roots of plants growing in planters by wrapping the container with bubble wrap, insulation, cardboard or blankets.
Clean up Planters: Remove any diseased and infected plants and plant parts from the planter including the soil surface.
Planters: Place planters under eaves to protect plants from heavy rainfall. Decorate Planters: Add branches with berries and others from evergreens; broadleaf and conifers and stick into the soil. For more click here. 
Pansies do a quick job to spruce up a tired summer planter.
Hoses, Pipes, Faucets
Close the shut off valves inside your house to the outdoor faucets.
Wrap string around conifers like this globe cedar, to keep their form and prevent their branches from breaking under heavy snow.
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November Garden Chores
Keep hummingbird feeders filled as many stay in town in the Pacific Northwest. Don’t forget to wash before refilling.
Birdie num-nums: Before adding more bird seed to feeders, remove any remaining mouldy seeds. Clean feeders with a dishwashing liquid combined with1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Rinse thoroughly and dry thoroughly before refilling with fresh seeds. Birds appreciate suet during the winter. Either buy a seedy suet cake or place peanut butter mixed with birdseed in pine cones and hang them in the garden.
Plant Bulbs: If the ground isn’t frozen, plant tulips and other spring flowering bulbs. Don't let snow deter you if the ground isn't frozen. For more click here. Summer Bulbs: Dig up and store any tender summer bulbs such as dahlias, tuberous begonias, gladiolus and cannas. Let them dry to cure in a cool, frost free dry place. Store in cardboard boxes filled with vermiculite, peat moss etc., in a cool frost free area away from light. Don’t store them if they are wet as they will rot. Bare Root Planting: Fall is the best time to plant bare root plants such as roses and hedges. Transplant & Plant: If it’s not too wet and the ground isn’t frozen, plant trees, shrubs and perennials. Select a fair weather day as rain spreads disease and compacts soil, especially this time of year. Prune: Cut back overly long rose canes and other branches that are in the way of people walking by. Ideally wait until after they have lost their foliage. Prune: Remove dead, diseased branches from trees before winter prunes them for you with winter storms and heavy snow. Perennials: Cut back dying and dead perennials to a couple of inches above the ground. Discard any infected and infested debris and plant parts. 
All the veggie beds at UBC Botanical Garden are covered with straw over the winter to prevent weeds, erosion and nutrient leaching. Cover beds with 2 to 3 inches of straw, fall leaves or shredded newspapers.
Collect seeds from sweet peas, peas, beans, nasturtiums, sunflowers etc. once seeds are dried and brown.
Protect borderline hardy plants with a thick layer of straw, fallen leaves, soil or mulch: agapanthus, New Zealand flax, pineapple lily, bananas, camellias. You can also use non-LED Christmas lights wrapped around plants, especially around palm’s central growing buds and other tender plants. To learn more about protecting bananas & palms click here. Raspberries, blackberries: Cut off canes that have produced fruit this year. Brussels Sprouts: Stake top-heavy Brussels sprout stems and pile up soil around their base to keep them stable. Jerusalem artichokes: Cut down stems, dig up tubers and store in a bucket of vermiculite or clean potting soil. Stored Veg: Check any stored potatoes and other veggies. Discard any rotten ones. 
Plant garlic, shallots & onions in well-drained soil in full sun.
Take hardwood cuttings throughout winter.
Hardwood Cuttings: Take hardwood cuttings from deciduous shrubs and evergreens now through winter and early spring. Use dormant, mature stems with firm wood that doesn’t easily bend. To learn more click here.
Root/Basal Cuttings: Take root and basal cuttings now until mid-February from most perennials ex: Oriental poppy, phlox, quince. For more info click here. Collect Seeds: Finish collecting dry, mature seeds from the garden and store all your seeds in a frost free, dry location in paper envelopes. Don’t store damp or wet seeds as they will rot. Label with the name of plant and date of harvest. Click here for more. 
Leave seedheads from fennel, teasel, verbena, ornamental grasses, coneflowers and others for birds and for winter interest. Pictured teasel (Dipsacus fullonum).
Eaves, drains, catchments: Clear all foliage and debris from drains, grates, eaves and any other places where water needs to drain.
Tools & Mowers: Clean and sharpen all tools, including your lawnmower. Store under cover in a dry location. Fertilizers, chemicals etc: Read product labels and bring any inside that need to be stored in a frost-free and dry location. Underground irrigation: All irrigation lines must be blown out before winter. Furniture: Wipe them down before covering them and place under cover. 
Winter veggies: Weed and protect soil with a layer of straw or shredded newspaper. Cover crops to keep them slightly warmer and to prevent insects with a cloche made from hoops and covered with frost blanket made of spun-bonded polyester.
Weed: Removing them now means prevents means less work in spring.
Mulch: Gather fall leaves for a free nutritious mulch. Add 3 inches to your garden beds by laying on top of the soil around plants. Winter Mulch: To protect plants over the winter cover the crowns (where stems and roots join) of roses, shrubs and perennials with a couple of inches of fall leaves. Bar Caterpillars from Trees: Purchase a tree banding kit or wrap plastic wrap around tree trunks, smear the plastic with Vaseline or Tanglefoot to prevent caterpillars from climbing and infesting susceptible trees. Click here for more. 
Garden Journal: Take notes and pictures of your successes and failures if you haven't already done so. Include a map of the veggie garden so you can rotate crops next year.
Houseplants
Kolanchoes do best in a sunny window with supplemental lighting for a 8 to 12 hours.
Houseplants: Move houseplants to your sunniest window or supplement their lighting with fluorescent or grow lights. Keep them on a timer for 8 to 12 hours. Inspect for insects and mist daily as central heating dries the air. Group plants on trays with pebbles and add water to increase humidity. If plants are potbound, it is best to wait until early spring to repot them. There's no need to feed plants as they are not actively growing growing. Allow soil to dry slightly between watering and use room temperature water, not cold - brrrr!
Buggy tender Plants Indoors
Mottled leaves are symptomatic of spider mites, due to dry conditions.
Check the plants geraniums, bougainvilleas and other tropical plants that were brought in from their summer vacation outside. Remove all spent, diseased plant parts and debris from the top of the soil. Check all plant parts, especially under the foliage and where the stems and leaves join. Inspect for any insects and anomalies. If any are spotted treat with a solution of 6 cups (11/2 quart) of mild dishwashing liquid soap with 1 quart of water and 1 tsp of vegetable oil. Shake well, apply thoroughly and avoid spraying the plant when it’s in full sun. Reapply thoroughly every 7 days to kill subsequent generation. To prevent spider mites don’t allow soil to dry too much between watering and moisten soil thoroughly.
November's Arrangement
English thyme small upright sprigs at the top, feverview small white nodding flowers, Coral Flower Carpet rose and miniature red roses on left, pink Rosa Oso Happy Smoothie on right, Swiss chard lower left maroon & yellow chrysanthemum daisy in the centre, burning bush corky twigs in the centre and green heavenly bamboo leaves lower left.
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Plant of the month
WinterGreen
Gaultheria procumbens
Wintergreens flower in the summer.
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Berries and leaves contain the medicinal and minty oil of wintergreen.
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White to pink flowers look like upside down urns with scalloped edges.
The deep red glossy berries are edible.
Flowers appear on red stems at leaf axils.
Wintergreens prefer a moist humus, organic soil.
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Common Name: wintergreen, teaberry
Botanical Name: Gaultheria procumbens Form: low and spreading Family: Ericaceae Genus: Gaultheria Species: procumbens Plant Type: broadleaf evergreen groundcover Origin: North America Hardiness Zone: 3 to 8 Growth: slow Size: 4” to 6” x 10” to 12” Foliage: evergreen, leathery, simple, elliptic, glossy deep green, turns purple to red in fall and bronze in winter, crushed foliage has wintergreen fragrance Flowers: June, July, 8–10 mm (0.31–0.39 in), whitish pink, pendulous funnel-shaped at leaf axils, 1 to 3 per stem Fruit: aromatic red berries, 6–9 mm (0.24–0.35 in) wide fleshy calyx that contains a dry capsule bearing seeds, edible with wintergreen flavour Stems: leaves alternate Exposure: shade to part sun Soil: semi-moist, acidic, humus rich Uses: groundcover, massing, native garden, woodland margin, wildlife, containers Propagation: spreads by shallow, underground rhizomes, seeds, divide in early spring Problems: rust, but it’s just cosmetic, dislikes drought and full sun in summer Cultivars: numerous ones available including Peppermint Pearl that bears white berries that mature to pink. Comments: An attractive and popular native North American indigenous evergreen groundcover. The red fragrant berries contain methyl salicylate, which is known as ‘oil of wintergreen’ as well as acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin). There’s over 100 types of wintergreens and their medicinal qualities have been used by indigenous peoples wherever they are found. Only minute amounts are needed as it is poisonous if used in large quantities. It’s used to treat rheumatism, headaches and is used to prevent tooth decay. It’s found in many dental products including toothpaste for its medicinal qualities and fresh minty flavour. Animals also appreciate its flavour. Both berries and foliage are eaten by chipmunks, grouse, pheasants, wild turkeys, bears and deer. Bees love the pollen and it makes excellent honey. Wintergreen has few pests and diseases, probably due to its fungicidal and bacterial properties. 
The berries last through the winter and are food for wildlife.
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for the tropical Gardener
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While working in Florida as landscape consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many to choose from, but relating that information to my clients was difficult, so I wrote a book. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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