November at VanDusen Botanical Gardens, Vancouver, B.C.
The Garden Website for NOvember
Christmas Cacti & Friends - Rectifying Wet Soils - Mollusk Watch - Planter TLC - Hoses, Pipes & Faucets - Garden Beds Houseplants - TLC for Birds - Bee Love - Winterize Your Garden - Veggie Beds - Making More Plants
Tools, Sheds, Greenhouses - A Wee Bit o' Prunin' - Roses in November
November's Introduction - Lawn Care -Plant Police - November Garden Chores - Amanda's Garden Blog
November's Plant Combo - November Arrangement - Plant of the Month: mountain ash, the rowan tree
Tools, Sheds, Greenhouses - A Wee Bit o' Prunin' - Roses in November
November's Introduction - Lawn Care -Plant Police - November Garden Chores - Amanda's Garden Blog
November's Plant Combo - November Arrangement - Plant of the Month: mountain ash, the rowan tree
A weeping beech showing it's autumnal colours.
November Intro
These piggies love November as they are treated to dine on October's pumpkins.
Hello Fellow Gardeners,
It seems like every November I struggle to get everything done in the garden. There’s always the last bits to do like cleaning up the shed so it welcomes me in spring - instead of me cursing it when I open the door.Then there's planting those extra bulbs that begged me to buy them at the store, even though I had finished planting - or so I thought. Oftentimes, fall clean up is prolonged by uncooperative weather and life getting in the way. Other priorities push the garden down the list, until I can no longer stand hearing it call my name… in my sleep, when I am on my laptop, when I am doing laundry, when I am helping someone else doing their garden. I can hear the garden whispering to me now. It's very distracting, especially since my garden is my 'happy place' and I relish its company. It's certainly a more pleasurable being in the garden than plonking away on my laptop. The weather has turned unseasonably cold and as I write this. An October frost decimated the dahlias at the height of their loveliness. I think the narcissus and aconite bulbs I recently bought are becoming hysterical as they huddle together in the shed. It’s so very sad. When I can no longer stand the constant nagging from my plants, I will don my wellies and woolly socks so I can venture forth into my garden that awaits with baited breath - weather permitting. Icy cold rain not only chills me to the bone, it spreads diseases among the plants, wet tools easily slip from my grip and soil becomes a muddy mess that becomes compacted underfoot. At least when it rains I don’t feel so guilty not working in my piece of heaven. Luckily, the pounding rain drowns out the plants yelling for attention. It’s a really good excuse to stay inside and have another cuppa. Good luck to all that have yet to put the garden to bed, and good luck to me, since I am one of those people! Cheers, Amanda November PLANT COMBO
A group of Japanese maples provide an array of autumnal colours and shapes.
Three types of Japanese maples work together for a splendid colourful autumnal scene. There are a multitude of outstanding varieties and cultivars of these delicate lacy trees. From weeping dwarfs to vase shaped elegance, no matter what form they take, they never disappoint. And in autumn, they all put on a colourful and spectacular show featuring different shades of reds, yellows and golds. For more information on Japanese maples, click here.
Ask Amanda
Question: We usually do a thorough garden cleanup in the fall but this year we decided to sweep up only the leaves on the pathways and lawn, leaving them where they fall on vegetable beds and flower and shrub borders. But...do we pick them up in the spring? We usually put compost around flowers and shrubs, so do we clear the leaves out of the way, put the compost on top?? We have rye grass growing in the vegetable beds and will turn it under in the late winter, adding compost at planting time. I assume we don't want to turn the leaves under as well but rather put them to compost separately? I'm very interested in hearing your response. Thanks!
Marlene, Vancouver, B.C. 
Answer: Hi Marlene, I’m so pleased you saved your leaves and didn’t rake them up and place them curbside. Your question is a very good one as many people don’t know what to do with fall foliage come spring. Follow nature’s lead and keep them on top of the soil; there’s no need to dig them in.
When foliage is left on top of the soil, it’s referred to as an organic mulch. Mulch acts like a blanket that protects the soil from erosion, nutrient leaching, weeds, and insulates it from temperature fluctuations. As fungi decomposes the foliage, it produces glomalin, which glues particles together to form aggregates. Soil aggregates are more stable, resist erosion and create pore spaces for air and water to enter and travel throughout the soil. Both clay and sand benefit from organic matter such as fall leaves. To answer your question, it doesn’t really matter if you move the leaves away before applying compost. Yes, you can add them to the compost bin, however, it would be better if they are incorporated into the soil or left as a mulch. If you incorporate the leaves into the soil, replace the leaf mulch with another organic mulch, such as wood chips. They take longer to break down compared to foliage and look attractive. On a side note, if you have placed fall foliage on your veggie beds, dig them into the soil in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. This should give them enough time to do their magic before it’s time to plant. |
Amanda's Garden Blog
Angel trumpet, a tropical beauty.
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House calls are available if you need to figure out what to do with your garden and when. Trouble-shooting sickly plants, pruning lessons, vegetable garden know how and landscape design are a few of the many services provided. To book an appointment click here. All Covid-19 protocols are followed.
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Purple beautyberry (Callicarpa) among the leaves from a red oak. Click on the picture to learn about beautyberries.
November's Garden Stars
Fothergilla gardenii, dwarf fothergilla, deciduous shrub, 1.5ft to 3ft x 2ft to 4ft, fragrant white flowers, sun to part shade, good fall colour. Zones 5 to 8.
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Firethorn, Pyracantha coccinea, deciduous shrubby vine, 6’ – 18’ tall & wide, May white flowers, sun to part shade, bears large thorns. Zones 6-9.
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Ornamental kale, biennial, 1’x 15”, sun. Zones 2-9. Click on the photo for more.
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Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple', Purple smokebush, deciduous shrub, purple summer foliage, fall colour, 10-15’ x 15’- 20’. Sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 8.
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Callicarpa, Beautyberry, Callicarpa formosana, deciduous shrub, sun to part shade, 3 to 9 ft. Zones 8 to 10. Click on the pic for more info.
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Dwarf winged burning bush, Euonymus alatus 'Compactus', deciduous shrub, 9 to 10' tall and wide, sun to part shade. Zones 4-8. Click on the pic for more info.
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American Sweetgum, Liquidambar styraciflua, 60’ – 80’ x 40 – 60’, deciduous tree, fragrant leaves, fall colour. Zones 5 to 9.
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Virginia witch hazel, Hamamelis virginiana, 15’-20’ height & width, fragrant blooms Oct. to Dec., sun to part shade. Zones 3 to 8.
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Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’, Maidenhair ornamental grass, 4-7ft x 3-6ft, copper blooms age to silver from fall thru winter, sun to part shade, attracts birds, drought tolerant. Zones 5-9
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Abelia Glossy abelia, Abelia x grandiflora, fall flowers, broadleaf evergreen shrub, 4 - 6’ x 5’, sun to part shade. Zones 6 to 9.
Persian ironwood, Parrotia persica, deciduous tree, 20’-40’x20’-30’, sun. Zones 4 to 8.
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Japanese Stewartia, Stewartia pseudocamellia, deciduous tree, 20 - 40' tall, 10 - 25' wide, sun part shade, attractive bark, white camellia-like flowers June to July. Zones 5-8. Click on the pic for more info.
Guernsey lily, Nerine bowdenii, perennial bulb, 14-18”x3-6”, sun, fall flowers, well-drained soil. Zones 8 to 10.
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Virginia creeper, Parthenocissus quincefolia, clinging, woody deciduous vine, 30ft, blue berries, fall colour, sun to part shade. Zones 3 to 9.
Dwarf strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo 'Compacta', broadleaf evergreen, part to full sun, 6 – 8’ x 5 -6’, white blooms & edible red fruit fall thru winter. Zones 7-9. Click on the pic for more info.
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plant police
This tightly bound stake has been left on and should be removed.
Plant growers stake plants tightly to keep them stable and secure while they are being handled in nurseries and for transportation. Remove the stake before planting in your garden. If left on, it will end up strangling the plant cutting of their water and food.
Most plants don't need to be staked if they are planted properly. Roots must be gently loosened so they grow into the surrounding soil. Make the planting hole the same depth as the rootball and firm it into the hole. The final grade should be at the same level of the plant crown, where the roots meet the stem. No deeper or higher. For more on how to plant click here. Christmas Cacti & Friends
Christmas, Thanksgiving and Easter cactus need some TLC in order for them to blossom.
These beautiful plants are not cactus, but succulents. Christmas, Easter and Thanksgiving cacti are closely related. Their unusual and beautiful blossoms need certain requirements. To learn how to tell them apart and how to spur on blooming click here.
Rectifying wet Soils
The addition of sand did not remedy this poorly drained soil.
Perpetually wet soils can be remedied if you know what the problem is. Clay soils retain moisture and drain very slowly. Compacted soils are also unable to drain because that have been squished by heavy loads, parking, and frequent foot traffic. I hope the following information will help you navigate through the quagmire of waterlogged soils. And for more info on soils click here.
Avoid Sand: It is a misconception that a layer of sand improves drainage but the opposite is true. Sand layers must become totally saturated before they drain to the layer below. It’s much better to mix the sand into the soil rather than lay it on top. Do not add sand to clay soils as it results in concrete. Add Organic Matter: A much better alternative to sand is organic matter. When it’s mixed into clay soils it build soil and adds nutrients, which sand does not. Mix in fir or hemlock mulch, or use leaf mould to break up the clay and to act as a sponge to soak up the water. Mix it in well and then add a 3 inch layer of an organic mulch over top of the soil. The mulch protects the soil and reduces erosion. Add Lime: Wet soils don’t retain calcium so they benefit from the addition of lime. Avoid fast activing lime as it’s known to burn soil and plants. Use Dolopril, a coated lime product that is slow release and easier to apply. Before adding any type of lime, get a soil pH done. Low Areas: Sunken spots collect water, but should drain in a day at most. Filling in the depression with soil is a good way to prevent puddling. For serious low spots that don’t drain convert the area to a pond, bog garden or a rain garden. Plant! If you want to go with the flow, so to speak, add plants that don’t mind wet feet. They will also help dry things out: goat’s beard (Aruncus dioicus), Astilbe, water avens (Geum rivale), Gunnera, Japanese iris (Iris ensata), Siberian iris (Iris sibirica), Ligularia, Rodgersia, redtwig dogwood (Cornus sericea), river birch (Betula nigra), swamp maple (Acer rubrum), Persian ironwood (Carpinus persica) and willow (Salix). 
Rodgersia (R. pinnata) is a perennial that prefers moist soil, partial shade and grows up to 2ft tall by 3ft wide.
Drain the Soil: Another option, is to install a trench (French drain) to move the water away. It is simple but very effective, permanent solution. This low tech method removes water from an area by using a trench and gravity. For more info on French drains and How to Drain Soggy Soils click here.
French/trench drains are an effective way to drain soils.
November Lawn Care
Mow and bag fallen foliage when it's dry, then place on garden beds.
Mollusk Watch
Primroses are a favorite of slugs and snails, especially during the winter.
Tattered plants and slimy trails are revealing signs that slugs and snails are on the prowl. If you are not squeamish, hand pick them off during rainy days or go out at night with a flashlight. As you pluck them off, just drop them in a cup of salty water. For those that are squeamish, trap them with slug bait or use copper. For more on snail and slug control click here.
Planter TLC
Pansies do a quick job to spruce up a tired summer planter.
Hoses, Pipes, Faucets
In areas where winter freezes ponds and waterfalls, blow out the lines of pumps and store them inside.
Garden Beds
Make New Beds: Install new beds, weather permitting, and if the soil isn’t dripping wet. Either remove the sod or do the lasagna (sheet mulching) gardening method. Click here to learn more.
Edge Garden Beds: It's a good time to edge new and old garden beds to reduce maintenance. Edging prevents grass from growing into the beds and makes line trimming easier. It looks neater too. Clean Garden Beds: Remove diseased, infested and infected plants and plant parts from the ground. It’s best not to remove everything on top of the soil and it is unnecessary and harmful to cut back everything. Don’t’ cut perennials to the ground; leave just a few inches. Add a 3 inch layer of mulch on top of the soil and around plants. For more on Putting the Garden to Bed click here. Cover Soil: Use autumn leaves to cover soil to prevent erosion, lessen nutrient leaching, to reduce weeds and to insulate the soil. Ornamental grasses: Cut back floppy untidy grasses to 6 inches, but keep those that are still looking good. Their seeds provide food for birds and they dress up winter gardens. Weed: Get down and dirty and dig them up so you have less to do in spring. Houseplants
Supplemental lighting aids houseplants during the winter due to the lack of sunshine.
TLC for our Fine Feathered Friends
An Anna's hummingbird sips nectar on a snowy January day.
Hummingbirds: Keep hummingbird feeders filled as Anna’s hummingbirds remain throughout the winter in the Pacific Northwest. Have more than one feeder as hummingbirds are very territorial and don't like sharing.
It’s recommended to change the nectar every 5 days at most to prevent mould; a hummingbird killer. Wash all parts of the feeders with hot water and a drop or two of dish liquid, with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Soak mouldy feeders for an hour. Before refilling, rinse extremely well. There should be no bleach or soap residue left behind. Air dry before refilling. To make the nectar, boil a cup of water and mix in ¼ cup of white sugar. Allow to cool before refilling clean feeders. When frost is predicted, bring in feeders and place on trays as the warmed nectar will ooze out of the feeders. Return them in the morning. If they are quick to ice over, don't put all your feeders out. Replace with one kept inside and keep changing them out. This is another good reason to have more than one feeder.
A downy woodpecker feeds on caged suet. Do not use suet wrapped in netting.
Bee Love
Keep mason bee hotels in a cool, dry place overwinter to prevent fungi.
Mason Bee Hotels: Store them in a shed to prevent fungi forming through winter’s damp conditions. Don’t put them in the house as its too warm and the bees may emerge prematurely. Put the bee hotel back outside in March.
Early Bees Bees emerge in early spring and must have pollen and nectar in order to survive. Plant early flowering plants such as hellebores (lenten rose), primroses, winter jasmine, witch hazels, as well as spring flowering bulbs such as snowdrops, crocus, and aconite. 
Plant crocus and other early flowering plants to feed hungry bees.
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November Garden Chores
'Magic Marlot' Japanese skimmia is a bright and colourful addition to shady winter gardens and grows 3' by 3'.
Bare Spots: If you have bare areas in your garden beds that are begging to be filled with flora, visit your local plant nursery for some winter beauties such as winter heather, lenten rose, pansies, conifers (ex: junipers) and broadleaf evergreens (ex: azaleas).
Spring Flowering Bulbs: Planting can continue as long as the ground isn’t frozen, however the sooner you get them in the ground, the better. Don't let snow deter you as long as the ground isn't frozen, go ahead and plant. For more on bulb planting click here. Dahlias, Glads, Cannas & Other Summer Bulbs: Dig up and store non-hardy bulbs but cure them first in a cool, frost free dry place. Store in cardboard boxes filled with vermiculite, peat moss,sterile potting soil, in a cool frost free area away from light. Don’t store if they are wet as they will rot. For more on Dahlias click here. Transplant & Plant: If the ground isn’t too wet nor frozen there’s still time to transplant and plant trees, shrubs and perennials. Select a fair weather day as rain spreads disease and wet soil compacts easily. It’s also the perfect time to plant bare-root hedges, roses, trees and fruit trees. For more on How to Plant click here. 
Divide bearded iris by separating rhizomes. Keep healthy productive ones and discard the rest.
Divide Perennials: Dig up and divide overcrowded perennials. For daylilies, hostas and others with dense rootballs divide with sharp shovel or use back to back garden forks to pry the roots apart. Plant at the same depth, and discard any dead or sparse centres.
Cut Back Perennials: Cut back dying and dead perennials to a couple of inches above the ground. Discard any infected and infested debris and plant parts. 
Sticky tanglefoot or vaseline stops insects in their tracks.
Block Caterpillars from Trees: Purchase a tree banding kit or wrap plastic wrap around tree trunks, smear the plastic with Tanglefoot to prevent caterpillars from climbing and infesting ornamental flowering cherries, fruit trees and other susceptible trees. For more on tree banding and controlling insects click here.
Soil improvement: Add well-rotted manure, compost, SeaSoil around perennials, shrubs and trees to improve the soil ecosystem and to feed plants in the coming year. To learn more about improving soil click here. Compost: Give your compost one last turn before winter sets in and add water if necessary. If it is too wet, add dried fallen leaves or torn up newspapers. Tempting as it may be, refrain from adding seedy weeds and buggy plants. For more on composting click here. winterize your Garden
Spun bonded polyester works well to protect tender plants.
Hardiness Factors: Wherever you live, whether it's in Canada or further afield, know your hardiness zone so you can select hardy plants, and protect those that aren’t so tough. Conditions also play a factor in plant hardiness. Dry soil, soggy soil, exposed areas, windy areas, high elevations, low spots - all influence how a plant survives winter. If you haven’t protected your vulnerable garden plants by now, don’t delay.
Protect tender plants: Wrap shrubs and small trees with spun bonded polyester, old tablecloths and bed sheets. Cover their crowns, as well as perennials, with soil or fallen leaves. Avoid using plastic as it suffocates plants, promotes rotting and doesn't insulate. 
My extra stock of perennials, shrubs & trees are in a 1 ft deep trench, nestled together and covered with straw for extra protection.
Winter Mulch: To protect plants over the winter cover the crowns (where stems and roots join) of roses, shrubs, tender perennials and newly planted plants with a couple of inches of fall leaves.
No Nitrogen Fertilizers: Don’t apply high nitrogen (the first number on fertilizer labels) fertilizer at this time of year. Nitrogen stimulates new, lush growth, which is vulnerable to frost damage. If plants and turf are looking yellow, feed with a high potassium winterizer fertilizer (the last number is the highest). 
Tie up globe cedars and other ornamental shaped conifers so they don’t get flattened with heavy snow.
Veggie Beds
A veggie bed is protected from the elements with a thick layer of straw.
Protect winter veggies with a cloche.
Plant garlic, shallots & onions in well-drained soil in full sun.
Making More Plants
Take hardwood cuttings throughout winter.
Hardwood Cuttings: Take hardwood cuttings from deciduous shrubs, including roses and evergreens now through winter to early spring. Use dormant, mature stems with firm wood that doesn’t easily bend. To learn more click here.
Root Cuttings: Take root and basal cuttings now until mid-February from most perennials ex: Oriental poppy, mullein, phlox, and flowering quince. To learn more click here. Collect Seeds: Finish collecting dry, mature seeds from the garden and store all your seeds in a frost free, dry location in paper envelopes, not plastic as it promotes rotting. Ensure they are dry before storing and don’t to label them with their name and year of collection. Click here for more. Tools, Sheds, Furniture & GreenHouses
Bring inside tender plants and seed packets from the greenhouse.
A Wee Bit 'o Prunin'
There's not much pruning done this time of year. Just remove dead, diseased, overly long stems and broken ones.
Garden Journal: Take notes and pictures of your successes and failures if you haven't already done so. Include a map of the veggie garden so you can rotate crops next year.
Roses in November
Remove suckers like the one on the left. Suckers are vigorous non-branching stems with big leaves. A normal stem is on the right.
Now is the perfect time to plant roses, especially bare root ones. Cut back overly long canes. Secure the canes of climbing roses and ramblers so they don’t whip around in the wind. Remove suckers that grow from under the bud union on hybrid teas and other grafted roses.
Remove all foliage from the soil and any infected ones remaining on the rose plant. Cut off spent flowers unless you want to keep their colourful rose hips. Mound soil, compost and/or fall foliage around the crown on non-grafted roses (where stem and roots meet) and on the bud union on grafted varieties such as hybrid teas. To learn how to plant and take care of roses click here. 
Mound soil on rose crowns and bud unions to protect them over winter.
November's Arrangement
Pink chrysanthemum daisies are surrounded by autumnal foliage.
Pink chrysanthemum daisies are the last of autumn's flowers. They are surrounded by colourful fall foliage from weigela, bridalwreath spirea, Young's weeping birch and Japanese tassel fern. For details and to see other monthly floral arrangements click here.
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Plant of the month
Mountain Ash/Rowan TRee
European mountain ash tree are known for their brilliant orange berries that hang like ornaments.
Berry clusters persist from summer into winter.
European mountain ash are perfect shade trees for urban gardens, and are tolerant of pollution.
Clusters of white flowers with their prominent stamens attract many types of pollinators in May.
The orange berries provide food for birds and other wildlife. Note the curling of the foliage indicates this tree is suffering from drought stress.
The pretty yellow berries of a 'Joseph Rock' rowan tree.
The pink berries of the 'Pink Pagoda' mountain ash. It's a Chinese relative of the Sorbus.(S. hupehensis 'Pink Pagoda').
Rowan tree's foliage bears numerous oval leaflets along a main midrib.
This 'Joseph Rock' mountain ash shows its fine form.
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Common Name: mountain ash, rowan tree
Botanical Name: Sorbus Form: upright and narrow when young, then canopy broadens and rounds with age Family: Rosaceae Genus: Sorbus Species: aucuparia Plant Type: deciduous tree Mature Size: 20 to 40 feet x 10 to 20 feet Growth: medium rate Origin: Great Britain, Europe, Western Asia, Siberia, naturalized in northern USA & Canada Hardiness Zone: 3 to 6 Foliage: alternate, compound matte green leaves are serrated, leaves comprised of 9-15 pinnate oblong leaflets, good fall colour from yellow, orange and, reddish-purple Flowers: May, small white with 5 petals in flat clusters (corymbs) Fruit: showy clusters of orangey-red berries (drupes) in late summer through winter Exposure: sun to semi-shade Soil: moist, acidic, well-drained Uses: specimen, accent, wildlife gardens, shade tree Attracts: birds, wildlife, pollinating insects Propagation: seed, softwood cuttings Pruning: winter, when dormant Problems: bacterial fire blight, scab, crown gall, aphids, drought stressed trees vulnerable to borers and cankers Comments: This delightful small tree has many attributes with its flowers, berries, fall foliage and small stature. It’s just the right size to provide shade in small urban gardens, clusters of little white flowers in May are profuse and relished by pollinators, large clusters of hanging colourful berries follow and are very ornamental. Last but not least, their foliage colours up nicely in autumn. Birds flock to devour the orange berries, however cultivars with pink and white fruit are not so popular, therefore they may stay on the tree into spring. The berries carry viable seeds, which means they tend to self-propagate. Although mountain ash are pretty tough, they don’t tolerate drought. Their distress is noted by foliage that turns inwards so only the back of the leaves are visible. This gives the tree a greyish cast. Trees eventually decline if they are suffer from drought year after year. Fire blight is a serious issue with mountain ash. Look for stems and leaves that appear burnt and scorched as though they had been in a fire. Fire blight’s tell-tale symptom blackened stems that become hooked like a shepherd’s hook. Warm, wet and humid conditions favor this disease. There’s no simple and easy cure for fire blight so it’s commonly recommended to not to even try, however you can try the following – no guarantees though. Cut off infected portions, well beyond the infected stems, and disinfect pruners after each cut. Spray the entire tree thoroughly with a Bordeaux Mix in early spring according to the instructions. Clean up all foliage before winter, and remove infected parts asap. The Wizard’s Tree Folklore revolves around mountain ash as it was considered a mystical plant of the wizards. Part of its attraction and magical powers was the ability of the bright fruit remaining on the tree once the leaves had fallen. Its wood was used as dowsing rods for numerous substances especially water hidden underground. The berries were also collected and used as medicine. No wonder it was named The Wizard’s Tree. 
Rowan trees autumn foliage don't disappoint.
Because birds are not too keen on the yellow berries of this 'Joseph Rock' mountain ash, they will last well into the winter.
Rowan trees are just the right size for most urban gardens.
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Young mountain ash trees have a narrow canopy.
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Mature rowan trees have a wide open rounded canopy at maturity.
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Stunning autumn foliage combined with bright orange berries makes a great combination.
for the tropical Gardener
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While working in Florida as landscape consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many to choose from, but relating that information to my clients was difficult, so I wrote a book. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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