Crocus are a sure sign spring is on its way. Photo Amanda Jarrett
The Garden Website for February
February Introduction - February Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog - February Garden Chores
Pruning Seminar - Job Postings - Prune Your Own Garden Registration - February Garden Stars
Plant Police - Slugs & Snails - Start Seeds Indoors - Colder Climates
Lawns - Prune & Cut Back - Making New Beds
February Flower Arrangement - Plant of the Month: Skimmia - For the Tropical Gardener
Pruning Seminar - Job Postings - Prune Your Own Garden Registration - February Garden Stars
Plant Police - Slugs & Snails - Start Seeds Indoors - Colder Climates
Lawns - Prune & Cut Back - Making New Beds
February Flower Arrangement - Plant of the Month: Skimmia - For the Tropical Gardener
Pruning Seminar
Lee Valley Tools, Vancouver, B.C.: Join Amanda for this seminar on pruning shrubs and trees. Seating is limited. Please register early to avoid disappointment. To purchase tickets call: 640-719-5954. For more info click here.
Job Postings
- Landscaper Needed: Pereda Gardenscape Services - Mostly South Vancouver, no experience necessary but be willing to learn, minimum 4 days a week, wage rate between $15 to $20/hour, contact Andrew read more...
Prune your own garden
register now!
If pruning your own plants seems a bit daunting, and you don't know where to start, Amanda will show you how. Take the fear and uncertainty out of pruning and gain confidence. Your garden will thank you. For more information and to register click here.
February Intro
Winter aconite is a welcome sight this time of year.
As the rest of the country is still in the throes of winter, the signs of spring are slowly emerging in our envious climate of southern British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest. By the end of the month, many plants will have woken from their winter’s sleep. Typically, average highs are 8 degrees C, while lows hover around 2 degrees, with nearly 3 inches (68 mm) to 4.4 inches (111 mm) of rain. Of course there are no guarantees to such temperate temperatures and moderate rainfall. Hopefully it will stay above freezing and we'll be spared snow before the winter is done with us. We weren't lucky last year – a dump of 36.6 cm snow happened on February 1.
Despite the inconvenience of snow it generally isn't a plant killer; it's those freezing temperatures on new tender growth, especially flower buds that cause the damage. Snow happens to be a great insulator, so don’t worry that entire plants will freeze to death as their roots will be nice and toasty. The biggest issue is the weight of the snow, which crushes and disfigures plants and breaks branches. If that does occur, grab a broom and knock the snow off as soon as possible to mitigate any damage. Just remember that the last frost date in southwestern British Columbia is March 28, so even if the weather is mild, we are not out of the woods yet. For the rest of Canada and much of the continent, there are few more months left of winter, so there is no big rush to get ready for spring. Since no one knows what nature has in store for us all, may this February be kind to all of us and our plants. Cheers, Amanda 
|
Amanda's Garden BlogCheck out my blog on my gardening experiments, trials. tribulations and excursions.
To subscribe to my blog click here.
|
February Garden Stars
The delicate looking flowers of the hardy cyclamen are quite hardy.
|
Sweet box, a shade loving broadleaf evergreen, bears heavily scented flowers.
|
Charity Oregon grape holly is brilliant this time of year.
|
February PLANT COMBO
Chihuahuan spruce, Winter Treasure Darley heath, Rubella skimmia
plant police
I wonder who thought this was a good idea?
This used to be a rhododendron - honestly. There are two issues going on here. First off it has been cut back waaaaaay too far, even if the idea was to rejuvenate this mature plant. Besides, as you can tell by the heather flowering on the right, this rhodo was cut back in winter; the wrong time for a spring flowering plant. It should be done just after flowering. The perpetrator of this crime is still at large. If found, this pruning fiend will be prosecuted at the full extent of the law and all their pruning tools will be confiscated after a public shaming.
Slugs & Snails
|
To make your own slug bait trap, recycle an old dairy tub by making windows in the sides and adding slug bait.
|
Set the trap in the ground so the 'windows' are flush to the soil surface.
|
Strips of copper, copper mesh and cracked hazelnut shells placed around susceptible plants works well as a barrier. Crushed eggshells are effective for a limited time and as an added benefit, they provide calcium to the soil.
Copper mesh works as a barrier protecting plants from slugs and snails.
A store bought slug bait trap with slug bait.
If you wish to introduce professional slug and snail slayers to your garden, consider ducks, toads, frogs and birds including robins, owls, thrushes, jays and crows. Encourage ground beetles and centipedes by leaving a nice layer of leaf litter on the ground. They love fresh escargot.
Slugs and snails are food for many animals, including geese.
Despite the damage mollusks do in the garden, they are an integral part of the food chain and provide protein to many animals and insects.
Speaking of which, plants in gardens beds that are left bare and have no leaf litter or other mulch, are especially vulnerable to mollusk attack. Slugs and snails devour leaves and other plant debris, whether it’s dead or alive. They are responsible for breaking down dead organic matter, thereby releasing nutrients to enrich the soil. There are an integral part of the soil food web. If there is no mulch for them to eat, their only food source are plants, so a 3 inch layer of an organic mulch is a good idea.
Speaking of which, plants in gardens beds that are left bare and have no leaf litter or other mulch, are especially vulnerable to mollusk attack. Slugs and snails devour leaves and other plant debris, whether it’s dead or alive. They are responsible for breaking down dead organic matter, thereby releasing nutrients to enrich the soil. There are an integral part of the soil food web. If there is no mulch for them to eat, their only food source are plants, so a 3 inch layer of an organic mulch is a good idea.
Start Seeds indoors
Start many types of veggie and flower seeds indoors now.
Start seeds inside: Starting seeds too early or too late is a common mistake when growing plants from seed. Been there, done that. To find out when to plant seeds, look at the back of the seed packet. It states how many weeks it takes for the seedlings germinate so they will be ready to plant outside. Some plants need 6 weeks or longer, while others are frost tender and must be planted outside after the danger of frost has passed (and after they have been hardened-off). To figure this out, find out when the last day of frost is in your area. Here, in Vancouver, B.C., our last frost date is the end of March. If I count backwards 6 weeks from the frost date, I should be sowing my tomato seeds around the last week of February. I like to write on my calendar when I should sow specific plants by using the seed packet information as a guide. It takes the guesswork out of the timing issue.
Here's a list of flowers, veggies and herbs to sow indoors from mid to late February and into March: asparagus, fennel, leek, onions, parsley, tomatoes, petunias, basil, cilantro, lavender, catmint, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, thyme, hollyhocks, asparagus, artichoke, peas, columbine, English daisy, cone flower (Echinacea sp.), black-eyed-Susan (Rudbeckia sp.), cosmos, foxglove, globe thistle, sweet peas, violets, pansies, zinnias, wax begonia, coleus, petunia, strawberries and most perennials.
Cool season plants: Not all seedlings are damaged with frost and can be planted before the last frost free date. They actually like the cool early spring temperatures. Start peas, lettuce, spinach, kale, cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli, chard and kale indoors now to give them a head start this spring.
For more information on how to set up your seed starting station check out Growing Seeds Indoors and Growing Seeds Outdoors for more information.
Here's a list of flowers, veggies and herbs to sow indoors from mid to late February and into March: asparagus, fennel, leek, onions, parsley, tomatoes, petunias, basil, cilantro, lavender, catmint, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, thyme, hollyhocks, asparagus, artichoke, peas, columbine, English daisy, cone flower (Echinacea sp.), black-eyed-Susan (Rudbeckia sp.), cosmos, foxglove, globe thistle, sweet peas, violets, pansies, zinnias, wax begonia, coleus, petunia, strawberries and most perennials.
Cool season plants: Not all seedlings are damaged with frost and can be planted before the last frost free date. They actually like the cool early spring temperatures. Start peas, lettuce, spinach, kale, cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli, chard and kale indoors now to give them a head start this spring.
For more information on how to set up your seed starting station check out Growing Seeds Indoors and Growing Seeds Outdoors for more information.
Lawns
Corn gluten is a non-toxic way to kill seeds as they germinate. Don't use when sowing desirable seeds, such as grass seed.
Apply corn gluten to lawns this month and/or during March. This organic product kills germinating weed seeds and adds just a bit of nitrogen. Don’t apply to areas where you have sown grass or other desirable seeds as it can’t tell the difference. Apply again in autumn to kill seeds that sprout in fall such as chickweed and shepherd’s purse.
Keep off frozen lawns as their growing point (crown) are easily broken off, which damages grass plants.
It’s too early to apply a fertilizer, especially high nitrogen number (the first number is highest). Applying it now encourages new lush growth prone to frostbite. It also new foliage at the expense of the roots.
Lawn care starts in earnest next month so now is a good time to service the lawn mower; sharpen and clean mower blades. It's a good time to clean all garden tools and sharpen where necessary if you didn't do it last fall.
Keep off frozen lawns as their growing point (crown) are easily broken off, which damages grass plants.
It’s too early to apply a fertilizer, especially high nitrogen number (the first number is highest). Applying it now encourages new lush growth prone to frostbite. It also new foliage at the expense of the roots.
Lawn care starts in earnest next month so now is a good time to service the lawn mower; sharpen and clean mower blades. It's a good time to clean all garden tools and sharpen where necessary if you didn't do it last fall.
Prune & Cut Back
This is the last month to cut back hydrangeas.
Pick a dry day to cut back shrubs that flowered last summer, if they need a trim. Don’t prune forsythia and other spring flowering plants until after they have flowered. Do cut butterfly bush plants (Buddleia sp.) back to 6 to 18 inches in height. Vary the height of the branches so the blossoms will emerge at various heights. Other summer flowering plants that benefit from a haircut are the Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus by 1/3 to promote bushy growth. This also encourages blossoms lower down on the plant instead of the end of their stems. If you didn’t trim your hydrangeas last fall, do it now. Cut stems back to the first two healthy fat buds from the tip of the stem. Also remove any dead and old wood.
February Garden Chores
Flower Power: Plant pansies and primroses when they first appear in stores, put them in garden beds and planters. Protect them from slugs and snails as they love to feast on the tender leaves and flowers.
Frost transforms these primrose flowers into iced beauties.
Greenhouse: Clean and disinfect all surfaces in the greenhouse. Do the same for any used pots, drainage trays and labels so everything is ready for those seedlings and plants. I usually do it in fall, but I didn't last fall so I have that yet to do.
Divide old overgrown perennials, such as this astilbe, hence the hollow centre.
Divide Perennials: Divide plants that bloom from mid-summer to fall. Mature perennials that tend to stop growing in the middle of the plant - the old original part. That leads to plants with hollow centres with new stems growing around the perimetre. Without support, stems fall over and the plant looks rather troubled. Dig up the whole thing and discard the unproductive center. This is a good time in spring and preferably before new growth starts: Astilbe, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.), bee balm (Monarda sp.), cone flower (Echinacea sp.), coral bells (Heuchera sp.), tickseed (Coreopsis sp.), pinks, carnations (Dianthus sp.), Sedum 'Autumn Joy' and ornamental grasses.
Can't wait for spring blooms? Cut a few stems from ornamental cherries, bridal wreath spirea, forsythia and other early flowering plants.
Forcing Branches: Cut branches from spring flowering shrubs (forsythia, camellia, ornamental cherries etc.) as they begin to bud. Bring them indoors and place in a vase with water. This is referred to as ‘forcing’. Before placing in a vase, hit the cut ends of their stems with a hammer. This violent but necessary act allows the water to be absorbed into the branch. Another option is to make vertical slits and the cut end up the stem with pruning shears.
Now is a good time to pull weeds as they are less prone to fight back as they are not actively growing.
Weeds: Dig them up now while they are not actively growing and can’t fight back. If weeds are a constant problem, consider laying down a 3 inch layer of organic mulch (chipped fir, hemlock, recycled wood pallets or leaves) on top of the soil surface. It works like a charm. Before laying the mulch, remove the weeds by hand and then place it on top of the soil and around plants. Don’t place it right against tree trunks; just a few inches away will do. Mulch not only reduces weed growth, it insulates the soil, retains soil moisture, reduces erosion and provides nutrients.
Tree bands: Remove any tree bands (to prevent caterpillar infestations) placed around tree trunks last fall and discard.
Tidy up perennials and bests by removing the spent foliage and composting it or leave it as is or place mulch overtop.
Garden Clean Up: Clean up garden beds by removing the spent foliage from iris, daisies, peonies and other herbaceous perennials and place in the compost. Same thing goes for any veggie beds. Rotting produce and plants promote future diseases and insects, so clean everything up. The only veggies I keep overwinter and into spring are kale and Swiss chard. They just keep on truckin'. They look good and taste good even after winter.
Unfortunately, this bird house is not on the market. It just sold for above asking price to two happy chickadees.
Birdies: Clean all birdhouses and bird baths. All that rain and inclement weather quickly rots seeds. Birdies will need new homes soon and they will be checking out any real estate you have available. Keep bird feeders stocked and suet available for our overwintering feathered friends. They need a helping hand this time of year, and as an added bonus, they eat bugs and slugs and are very entertaining to watch.
Compost: Activate the compost in the compost bins by turning with a garden fork. Add water if it is too dry and if it is too wet, add shredded newspaper or dried leaves left over from autumn.
This Lithodora looked like it was a goner, but it's roots were still alive and it bounced back.
Winterkill: It’s too early to discard plants suffering from winterkill, as they may have life left in them yet. Although the above ground portion may appear dead as the roots may still be alive. Wait until the end of March and if no growth has appeared, it’s probably a goner.
Colder Climates
For those in more northern climates, there's time to do winter pruning and applying dormant oil.
For those that live where winter is still in full swing, you can always move (hence the steady flow of people moving to the Pacific Northwest). If that is not doable anytime soon, then you have way more time to prep for spring.
Winter prune dormant plants and apply a dormant oil, lime sulfur combination spray to reduce overwintering insects and diseases.
Refrain from using salt on paths as it injures lawns and plants, while contaminating soil. Use sand or a ‘green’ alternative that is non-toxic to plants, soil and animals.
Winter prune dormant plants and apply a dormant oil, lime sulfur combination spray to reduce overwintering insects and diseases.
Refrain from using salt on paths as it injures lawns and plants, while contaminating soil. Use sand or a ‘green’ alternative that is non-toxic to plants, soil and animals.
Check Stored Summer Bulbs: Throw out any moldy ones so they don’t contaminate their fellow bulbs. Soak any that have dried out until they plump up then restore. Discard any that are too far gone. Pot up any sprouted dahlias if you wish, but do place them in a frost free, well-lit location until the danger of frost has passed.
Making New Beds
Make new beds now so they will be ready to plant asap.
Oftentimes, by the end of February, spring begins in earnest. If you need to enlarge existing beds or install new ones, and there is no snow on the ground, now is a good time to get a jump start. There are a few caveats though. If the soil is soggy it's too early. Wait until you can squeeze a handful of soil without it dripping water.
Sheet mulching, aka Lasagna Gardening, is an easy way to make new beds or enlarge existing without digging up the lawn. Use garden hose to outline new beds or to increase the size of existing ones. Once done, don’t forget to add edging so grass does not encroach onto the garden beds and paths. Edging reduces maintenance and looks neat, clean and professional.
Sheet mulching, aka Lasagna Gardening, is an easy way to make new beds or enlarge existing without digging up the lawn. Use garden hose to outline new beds or to increase the size of existing ones. Once done, don’t forget to add edging so grass does not encroach onto the garden beds and paths. Edging reduces maintenance and looks neat, clean and professional.
Cut back ornamental grasses before new leaves emerge.
Ornamental Grasses: Cut back ornamental grasses to the ground before they sport new growth.
Clematis: Prune Group C, Late Flowering Clematis in February and March. Remove all dead and damaged stems to healthy buds 6 to 8 inches above ground level.
Clematis: Prune Group C, Late Flowering Clematis in February and March. Remove all dead and damaged stems to healthy buds 6 to 8 inches above ground level.
February Arrangement
Skimmia, sweet box, Harry Lauder's walking stick, witch hazel, winter heather, hellebores, Oregon grape holly, lily of the valley shrub
Plant of the month
Japanese Skimmia
The male flowers of a Japanese skimmia.
Female skimmias boast flowers and fruit at the same time.
Female skimmia flowers bear no pollen, but need a male plant nearby to bear fruit.
Skimmias look great anytime of year, especially during the winter when they don berries and flowers at the same time.
Too much sun have bleached these skimmia leaves.
|
Common Name: Skimmia
Botanical Name: Skimmia japonica Form: round and spreading Family: Rutaceae Genus: Skimmia Species: japonica Plant Type: broadleaf evergreen shrub Mature Size: 2 to 4 ft tall and 3 to 5 foot wide Growth: moderate Origin: SE Asia, Japan, China Hardiness Zone: 7 Foliage: Dark green above and paler yellowish green on reverse, leathery, 6 to 13 cm long, simple, alternate, elliptic, aromatic when bruised. Male and female plants (dioecious), red berries produced on female plants. Males larger and more fragrant. Stems: smooth, brown Flowers: clusters of small, fragrant, white coloured flowers held in panicles in February to April Fruit: red, sometimes white berries (drupe) in late fall and winter, borne on female plants, need 1 male for every 6 females to produce berries, (which are poisonous) Exposure: part shade to shade, too much light bleaches foliages Soil: moist, acid, soils with plenty of organic matter, organic mulch Uses: foundation plantings, massing, mixed border, winter garden, fragrant garden, hedge row, small garden, woodland margin Propagation: softwood cuttings mid spring, layering Pruning: To keep plant compact, prune after flowering by 1/3rd. Problems: The entire plant is poisonous, especially the berries. Suffers from spider mite if conditions are too dry. Cultivars: Reeves skimmia, Skimmia reevesiana, is shorter with dull red fruit on self-fertile plants, as male and female flowers are on the same plant. Comments: Resistant to diseases and insects, resistant to deer and rabbits (unless they are really hungry). Skimmia a well-behaved plants that are perfect for around the foundation of the house and where there is shade. No matter what time of year it is, skimmias always look good. 
Skimmias are just the right size for foundation plantings.
|
Rubella Japanese Skimmia
|
Japanese skimmia are very floriferous and have a spicy scent.
|
THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
|
Container Growing 101Monthly Flower Arrangements
Growing Roses Introduction Mulching & Types Introduction |
for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
|
|
Copyright 2017 The Garden Website.com, Amanda's Garden Consulting Company - All Rights Reserved