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The Garden Website.com

Amanda's Garden Consulting Company
Butterfly bush, Buddleja (Buddleia) davidii, photo by Amanda Jarrett

The Garden Website for AugusT

New: Dunbar Garden Club Garden Tour, August 2020
New - Tomato Tips 
August Introduction -  August Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog -  August Garden Chores 
August Garden Stars - Plant Police - August Lawn Care - Watering Tips
Drought Gardening - Harvesting Fruit - Harvesting Veggies - Summer Pruning
Tomato Troubles - Winter Veggie Gardening
It's Powder Mildew Season - Planter TLC - Harvesting Spuds - Shrubs After the Flowers 
August Arrangement - Need Help? - For the Tropical Gardener - Plant of the Month: Rose of Sharon

Coronation grapes
'Coronation' grapes ripen this month.

August Intro

Lilium 'Casa Blanca',August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
One tomato plant too many.
​It’s August and the heat is on – finally. It’s been cool here in coastal British Columbia and many cool season plants enjoyed the mild temperatures and the rain. It was great not having to water, which I think most gardeners can relate to. It would be nice to have some heat though and some sunshine; after all it is supposed to be summer. 
August is known to be our hottest and driest month. Lettuce, spinach and other cool babies are at the end of their life, however the hot tamales of the garden such as tomatoes and peppers are relishing the heat and all the glorious sunshine.
I have to admit I don’t like it when it gets too hot and dry, because I end up spending oodles of time in the garden watering. Due to water restrictions, we can only put the sprinklers on for two days a week so supplemental hand watering is necessary, so plants don't suffer. 
I have been known to grab the garden hose just before we head out – all dressed up and wearing heels only to get soaked – argh. I should put blinders on so I don’t see the garden on the way to the car. I can’t find any for mad gardeners though, just for horses.​
Another time consuming task this month is harvesting; it’s difficult to keep up. Because of this, I have reduced the number of my tomato plants to three. Perish the thought of going on vacation without anyone to harvest in our absence - the tomatoes would be a disease ridden, mushy mess. Thank goodness for my friend and neighbour, especially since she also has her own garden to tend to.  
The joy of eating something you have grown with your own lily-white hands is worth all the TLC devoted to their well-being. It’s true you can buy inexpensive produce from the stores and at farmer’s markets without getting your fingers dirty, however, you can’t get any fresher or sweeter goodies than harvesting from your own back yard.  After all, there’s no delays from garden to kitchen, no transportation is necessary, no extra handling by others and you have reduced your carbon footprint.
For those that don’t have a veggie garden, good for you! If we all grew veggies, then who would we give all our bountiful harvests to? So thanks to all you non-veggie garden people for loving our home-grown treats!
Cheers and happy harvesting - oh, and eating!
Amanda

Dunbar Garden Tour PIcs!

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Garden #1 is a jewel of a garden hidden from the road.
Members of the Dunbar Garden Club have opened up their gardens to fellow members this summer. It was a pleasure to be able to visit some gardens this year, especially since previous garden tours had been cancelled. Due to the pandemic, only members could attend and appointments were necessary. Although I was unable to attend the previous tour a month ago, I managed to visit four gardens. As usual, I have taken lots of pics so you can also enjoy them. Click here to go my blog.

Garden Consults!

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Need help figuring what to do in your garden? Is your garden more work than it's worth? Amanda will help you make the most of your garden. Click here for an appointment.

Learn How to Prune

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​What to prune now? How to prune? What tools to use? How far can a plant be cut back? All are great questions. Register here  for Amanda to teach you all about pruning your plants in your garden at your convenience.

Ask Amanda

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Question
I've attached some pics of my weeping maple that's suddenly struggling....any ideas? Michelle, Delta, BC
Answer
Japanese maples are known to be easy care, but when they are unhappy they drop their foliage, and if the issue isn't rectified, their stems start to die starting at the tips. Culprits include incorrect conditions, incorrect maintenance or worst case scenario, it could be infected with a disease. Read more..

Amanda's Garden Blog

Lilium x hybrid oriental 'Aubade' oriental lily
Aubade oriental lily (Lilium x hybrid oriental 'Aubade')
  • Dunbar Garden Club Garden Tour 2020
  • ​New: Rose Bloom Balling
  • ​Types of Roses
  • Easy Roses Do Exist.. Really!​
  • Blog: Easy Vegetable Garden Trellis 
  • Blog: Tomato Seedlings to Plants
  • Video: How to Divide Dahlias 
  • Video: How to Plant a Tree
  • Video: How to Prune a Grapevine in Winter
  • Damping Off - A Seedling Killer!
  • Lawns: ​Seeding, Sowing, Renovating
  • Lawn Grub Control
  • Tuberous Begonias 101
  • Dahlias 101
  • Pruning in Winter
  • Pruning & Training Grape Vines in Winter
  • Insects & Diseases Control with Dormant Spray
  • Dealing With Drought
  • Heritage Vancouver 7th Annual Garden Tour
  • Growing Potatoes
  • Pruning Shrubs into Trees
  • 10 Steps to Festive Planter
  • Christmas Tree Selection 
  • Collecting & Saving Seeds
  • Heritage Vancouver 6th Garden Tour
  • The Dunbar Garden Tour 2018
  • Dart's Hill, A Garden Park
  • VanDusen Botanical Gardens Visit
  • Tall Kale Tales
  • Northwest Flower & Garden Show, Seattle
  • Pruning in Winter
  • Pruning & Training Grape Vines in Winter
  • Insects & Diseases Control with Dormant Spray
  • Why Christmas cactus Don't Blossom
  • A Quickie Festive Swag
  • Putting the Garden to Bed
  • How to Drain Soggy Soil
  • A Visit to the Arizona - Sonora Desert
  • Banana, Palm Tree Winter Protection
  • Lasagna Gardening, Sheet Mulching
  • Saving Geraniums, Coleus, Bougainvilleas & Other Tender Plants 
  • Spiders Everywhere - Oh My!
  • Tomato Troubles & Soil Solarization
  • Trees That Drip That Sticky Stuff
  • Balcony Bliss
  • June Bugs - One Huge Beetle! 
  • A Summer's Day Harvest
  • The Dunbar Garden Club Private Tour
  • Leaky Birdbaths and Slug Free Strawberries
  • Oops... Wrong Plant, Wrong Place
  • I Had An Ugly Lawn...
To subscribe to my website click here. 

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Marguerite Daisy (Argyranthemum) is a showy annual.
August Garden Stars
Inula,fleabane,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Fleabane (Inula spp.) grows to 6 ft depending on variety. Full sun, Zones 3-7. Can be invasive depending on the species and location.
Actaea (Cimicifuga) simplex 'Hillside Black Beauty',August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Hillside Black Beauty bugbane, Actaea (Cimicifuga) simplex 'Hillside Black Beauty', likes shade and grows to 3ft, including the flower spikes.
Campsis radicans,trumpet vine,trumpet creeper,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Yellow and red trumpet vines (creeper), intertwine. They love full sun and are quite vigorous growers.

Hibiscus syriacus,rose of sharon,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Glossy abelia, Abelia x grandiflora, broadleaf semi-evergreen shrub, 4 - 6’ x 5’, fragrant flowers June - October, sun, part shade. Zones 6 to 9.
 Echinacea purpurea 'Doubledecker' coneflower,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Double Decker coneflower, Echinacea purpurea 'Doubledecker', prefers full sun, grows to 30 inches, a perennial for Zones 3-9.
Ligularia stenocephala ‘The Rocket’,
'The Rocket' leopard plant, Ligularia stenocephala, herbaceous perennial, 3-5' x 2'-4', part shade to shade, tolerates wet soil. Zones 4 to 8.

Albizia julibrissin,Persian Silk tree,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
A flower from the Persian Silk tree. Ultimate height is 52 feet, but in Vancouver it's half the size. Zones 6 to 9.
Phlox paniculata,garden phlox,
Garden phlox, Phlox paniculata, herbaceous perennial, fragrant blooms July - Sept, sun to part shade, 2’ to 4’, equal spread, attracts butterflies, hummingbirds. Zones 4 to 8.
Buddleja (Buddleia) davidii,butterfly bush,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Butterfly bush (Buddleja (Buddleia) davidii) attracts butterflies, but is considered an invasive species in many locations.

Helenium 'Rubinzwerg,sneezeweed,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
This sun loving perennial grows to 30 inches, attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. Zones 3-8.
Mondarda,bee balm,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Monarda didyma, scarlet bee balm, herbaceous perennial, 2'-4' x 3', sun to light shade, attracts hummingbirds, butterflies. Zones 4 to 9.
Fuchsia magellanica,hardy fuchsia,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Hardy fuchsia, Fuchsia magellanica, a tender perennial suited to afternoon shade, Zones 6 to 9, grows up to 5 feet.

August PLANT COMBO

Hydrangea paniculata 'Grandiflora',pompom dahlias,phlox paniculata,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Purple phlox, a white PeeGee hydrangea and pastel apricot 'Jill' dahlias.
When other plants have passed their prime, this threesome makes a bold statement. The colourful purple flowers in the foreground are garden phlox (Phlox paniculata). The cone shaped white flowers in the rear belongs to a standard (one main trunk) PeeGee hydrangea (H. paniculata 'Grandiflora'). The pale salmon coloured flowers shaped like pompoms are dahlias called 'Jill'. This combination is suitable for sun and partial sun locations. This trio attracts bees and butterflies in sun to partial shade locations. 

Watering Restrictions

For Metro Vancouver, B.C.
Water restrictions start May 1 and end October 15. If you don’t live in Metro Vancouver, contact your local municipality for their watering restrictions.
Residential Lawns:
  • Even-numbered addresses: Wed and Sat, 4 to 9 a.m.
  • Odd-numbered addresses: Thurs and Sun, 4 to 9 a.m.
Residential Garden, Trees, Shrubs & Flowers: 
  • Any day from 4 to 9 am for sprinklers, hand watering and drip irrigation.
  • All hoses must have an automatic shut-off device. 
Non-residential (businesses) lawns:
  • Even-numbered addresses: Mon 1-6 a.m., Fri 4 - 9 am
  • Odd-numbered addresses: Tues, 1 to 6 a.m., Fri 4 to 9 am
Business gardens, trees, shrubs & flowers:
  • Any day from 1 to 9 am for sprinklers, hand watering, drip, irrigation. All hoses must have an automatic shut-off device. 
For more information, click here. 

plant police

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The container grown jasmine has run out of food, hence the pale foliage.
Pale foliage and green veins are symptoms of a lack of iron and/or nitrogen. Potted plants, like this jasmine, are prone to nutrient deficiencies and must be given food before they weaken and succumb to insects, diseases and death. A liquid feed of kelp or fish provides food quickly and efficiently. Follow up with a slow release fertilizer that contains iron and other micro-nutrients. Trace nutrients are also sold separately. Mix in a couple of inches of compost to provide more nutrients long term. For more on fertilizing plants click here. Click here for nutrient deficiencies. 

Watering Tips 

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This 3 zone irrigation timer includes an outlet for manual watering.
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Please note that watering restrictions for lawns are not the same for gardens.
  • Water! It's summer and plants quickly perish because it's so hot and dry. Daily inspections are a good idea, especially for planters, and a necessity for hanging baskets. 
  • Use timers: To make watering easier and less time consuming, set up hoses on a timer with numerous zones. They are easy to set up and available where sprinklers are sold. Remember to follow any local watering restrictions.
  • Watering trees:  Place a hose on trickle for 30 minutes twice a week, or an hour once a week. Don't place it against the tree trunk as the roots are at the dripline (at the edge of the canopy), not the base of the trunk.
  • Reduce watering: A 3 inch layer of mulch to prevent evaporation and to hold in soil moisture. It really does work!

Drip Systems & Soaker Hoses

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Drip systems are excellent for planters, it's not a good idea to rely on them to keep gardens happy. Drip irrigation only wets a very small area. Because of this, they must be placed strategically, just above the roots. To ensure that plants are receiving adequate water, note the pattern of wetness on the soil and adjust the time accordingly. The plants will let you know quite quickly if they are still thirsty. To make drip irrigation more effective, add a good 3 inches of mulch over top of the soil and between plants. 
Soaker hoses seep moisture into the soil, but as with drip systems the moisture doesn’t spread far and wide. Place the hoses close together for more effective wetting and cover the soaker hoses with a layer of mulch. 

Tackling Tomato Woes

Verticillium wilt,blossom end rot,late blight,early blight,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,harvest,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Split tomatoes are a common problem on thin skinned varieties and is due to infrequent watering.
There are many things that can go wrong when growing tomatoes. Weather certainly plays its part and often is the determining factor of their fate. Different climates results in different problems, hence the following list, which applies to the Pacific Northwest. 
Click here for:
Quickie Tomato Troubles Table
Happy Tomatoes - Late Blight - Cracked Tomatoes
Blossom End Rot -Verticillium Wilt
Early Blight - Preventing Disease
s
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Late blight is caused by wet foliage due to fog, dew and watering overhead.

August Tomato Tips

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Cut back tomato stems above a flower or fruit cluster to encourage the remaining fruit to ripen and to tame stems.
  1. To tame and to encourage faster ripening cut overly long stems back to a leaf, flowers or a tomato.
  2. Pinch out suckers before they get too big.
  3. Water well after pruning.
  4. Don't prune plants if they are wilting due to lack of water.
  5. Maintain consistent soil moisture to prevent split fruit and blossom end rot.
  6. Keep water off the plant; just apply it to the ground.
  7. Thoroughly water the soil around the plant, especially when it's dry.
  8. Don't touch plants when they are wet.
  9. ​Avoid giving tomatoes too much nitrogen. It results in huge plants with low yields. It also encourages tender growth prone to insects and diseases.
  10. Plants with yellowing foliage need food. Feed them with a liquid fertilizer such as kelp or fish. To supplement the fertilizer mix in some compost for longer lasting and beneficial nutrition. For more on fertilizers click here. 
  11. Keep plants properly staked as they continue to grow.
  12. For overly long stems that have escaped their support, cut back to a leaf, flower cluster or a tomato. 
  13. Remove any foliage that touches the ground.
  14. Remove any nasty fruit and foliage asap and discard.
  15. Harvest often, as overripe fruit encourages diseases and insects.
  16. Snip off stem ends just above tomatoes clusters approximately a month before the first frost date in your area. This encourages the remaining fruit to ripen.
  17. For determinate (shrub) tomatoes, snip of stem ends just above its cage or other support.
  18. Water in the morning. Plants should not be wet at dusk.
  19. For more Tomato Tips click here. 
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Yellow foliage indicates this tomato plant is lacking food.

AugusT Lawn Care

August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
The lawn on the left is healthier than the one on the right as it has been cut higher, mowed more often and receives 1 inch of water/week.
  1. Water! Apply 1 inch or more of water a week. 
  2. Cut grass long at 4 inches. Check the cut height of your lawn after mowing to ensure it is being cut at 4 inches.
  3. Mow often so only 1/3rd of the grass blade is cut off at each mowing.
  4. Don't leave clumps of mowed lawn on the grass.
  5. Leave clippings on the lawn so mow often so mowed grass doesn't clump. 
  6. Wait until September to seed, sod and renovate lawns. 
  7. To learn more about lawns click here.
  8. For more on lawn maintenance click here. 
  9. Got lawn grubs? Click here to learn more.
Thirsty lawn symptoms 
  • Footprints remain on the lawn and so do lawn mower tire tracks.
  • Grass takes on a blue-green hue.
  • Brown and yellow patches in the lawn.
  • The lawn is sparse and weeds are filling in.
water restrictions Vancouver,August lawns,summer lawn care, August garden chores,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
Water your lawn during the summer to prevent lawn grubs such as chafer beetles.

Drought Gardening

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Curled foliage on this astilbe is a symptom of arid soil.
Drought is a serious problem for many gardens throughout the world. Even in the 'wet coast' of British Columbia, the summer months are quite arid. There are numerous techniques and garden practices that are helpful to keep the soil moist and plants happy. Many of these techniques are practical, efficient and most importantly - they work. 

How can you tell when a plant is thirsty? Wilting is a common symptom, but it's not the only one. Did you know that trees also suffer from a lack of water? Although they don't wilt, they do show their displeasure.  To learn more about drought gardening, how to tell when plants are thirsty, click here. 

Fruit Harvests

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Okanagan peaches.
Ripe fruit at their peak are packed with vitamins and other goodies. They also taste better too. Here is a quickie guide to picking the cream of the crop. 
  • Apples: should easily fall into your hand when twisted.
  • Blackberries: plump, shiny and black, not dull or reddish.
  • Blueberries: plump, firm uniform dark blue with powdery white coating that fall off into your hand
  • Cantaloupes: should be yellow or cream colour, make a hollow sound when tapped, fragrant, the blossom end (not the stem end) should be spongy.
  • Pumpkins, Squashes: they are ripe when the skin hardens and it is difficult to pierce with your fingernail.
  • Cherries: plump, firm, glossy, rich colour for the variety, fragrant.
  • Figs: the tree’s sap is an irritant so wear long sleeves and gloves when picking. Figs hang down when ripe and should be slightly squishy.
  • Peaches: no green on the fruit, fragrant, easily fall tree, slightly squishy and not rock hard.
  • Pears: stay green and hard even when ripe but will be fragrant, and stem end should yield when pressed.
  • Plums: retain flavour if left on the tree to ripen. Should yield to pressure when squeezed and will drop easily from the tree.
  • Raspberries: fragrant, firm – not mushy, uniform in colour, easily removed.
  • Watermelon: makes a dull, hollow sound when tapped. Pick when plants turn brown and the stem curls. 
  • For more on harvesting click here. 

Summer Pruning

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Remove dead dahlia flowers and their stems to tidy plants, reduce diseases and to encourage more blooms.
  • ​Annuals: Deadhead annuals and cut back spindly stems by half. 
  • Perennials: Cut back flowering stems of perennial plants to tidy them up and to prevent them from going to seed (unless you want to collect their seeds to propagate).
  • Roses: Remove blossoms including whole flower clusters once they have finished flowering. Cut back stems to an outward facing leaf with 5 to seven leaflets, a node or a side branch. Feed and water afterwards.​​ Click here for more on pruning roses. 
  • Fruit Trees: Remove: suckers, dead, diseased, overly long branches and ones that are in the way etc. Prune back the side branches of apple trees to encourage fruiting spurs. Cut them back to only a few buds. In a couple of years they should revert to buds (fruiting spurs) that produce flowers, and subsequently apples. For more click here.
  • Wisteria: Cut back each side branch to a 2 to 4 buds (nodes). This will also increase the number of flowers as the remaining buds should revert to fruiting spurs in a couple of years.
  • Grapes: Prune back all leafy side shoots back to fruit clusters. For more on pruning grapes click here.
  • Raspberry and blackberry: Cut down canes that have already borne fruit this year.
  • Hedges: Clip hedges, including cedars (arborvitae, Thuja) so their new growth with be hardened-off before frost arrives. 
  • After Pruning: To help plants bounce back give them a nice drink and feed them with fish, kelp or another organic plant food. For more on pruning click here. 

August Garden Chores

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Floppy plants? These balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus) are held up by inexpensive wire fencing from the dollar store. Little wire trellises also work well.
  • Stake: Continue to stake dahlias, tomatoes, gladiolus and other tall or top-heavy plants as they grow. Remove stakes of those plants that no longer need them.
  • Deadhead: Cut off dead flowers (not just the petals) from shrubs, perennials, annuals and summer bulbs such as dahlias. Removing spent flowers helps keep the garden tidy, stops stems from being top heavy and prevents reseeding. Deadheading also encourages compact growth, whilst some plants, like garden phlox, may re-flower. ​
  • Onions, garlic, shallots: To encourage big fat bulbs, snip off flowers as they appear (make them into pesto or add to stir fries). Stop watering when their leaves start to yellow. Harvest when their leaves brown. Cure and then store in a dry location.
  • Divide Perennials: When daisies and other perennials stop growing from the plant's centre, it's time to dig them up. Discard the unproductive centre, and replant what's left or divide them to make more babies. Divide coral bells, hostas and other perennials once they have finished flowering. 
  • Compost: Turn the compost pile and add water if it's dry. Top the pile with a couple of inches of brown (carbon) layer of shredded newspaper or dried foliage to reduce flies, fungus gnats and rodents. If the pile is too wet, mix in shredded newspaper and finish up with a couple of inches of torn newspaper or dried leaves. To learn more click here. 
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Cuttings: Take cuttings (herbaceous type) from annuals now so you can over-winter them as houseplants: impatiens, coleus, petunias and geraniums. Click on the picture to learn how.
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Take cuttings from your favourite rhododendrons and other shrubs now.
​Cuttings from Shrubs, Trees & Vines: Take semi-hardwood cuttings from stems with a woody base and soft green tops ex: hydrangea, camellia, Mexican mock orange (Choisya), California lilac (Ceonothus), heather, hebe, mahonia, lavender, viburnum, magnolia, rhododendron, conifers, jasmine, passion flower. If in doubt, experiment and take as many cuttings from as many plants as you like. Learn more click here.
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Once lettuce plants have bolted, their leaves become bitter and inedible, however their flowers benefit bees and other pollinating insects.
  • Veggies going to seed (bolting): When lettuce, spinach, beets, radish and other crops grown for their foliage or roots produce flowers leave them be - unless you need the space. If space is not an issue, leave the flowers for honey bees, butterflies and other pollinators.
  • Weed: Water the ground first to make it easier to pull them out. Add 3 inches of wood chips or another organic mulch to prevent weeds. Do not put fabric under the mulch. 
  • Birds: Our fine feathered friends are often in need of supplemental water as the ponds, swales and other sources of water dry out. Poor birdies. Add a birdbath to your garden or even a flat shallow dish will do. Hummingbirds go through lots of nectar during the summer so inspect nectar levels more often than normal. Clean hummingbird feeders before adding more nectar to prevent mould, that kills these wee birdies. ​
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Collect hollyhock and other mature seeds once their seed heads have turned brown. Pick when they're dry to the touch. Store in paper bags or envelopes in a frost free, dry place. Label with harvest date & name. Click on the picture above for more info.

Plant Fall/winter veggies 

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Kale is a winter hardy plant that will survive for 2 years.
​Direct seed or use starter plants to harvest in fall and winter: arugula, beets, lettuce, endive, pac and boc choi, radicchio, radish, scallions and spinach.​ For more on Winter Veggie Gardening click here. 

Plant Cover Crops

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Crimson clover adds nitrogen and organic matter to the soil. Their colourful flowers also attract pollinators.
Once crops are harvested, plant a cover crop in their stead. Cover crops help build soil as they add organic material and nutrients. Fall rains and winter weather takes its toll on bare soil as nutrients and soil is lost through leaching and erosion. However, when planted with crimson clover or another cover crop, the opposite occurs. Pollinators and other beneficial insects enjoy the flowers of cowpeas, fava beans, clover, rapeseed, buckwheat and rapeseed.

Fill garden spaces: Plant cover crops were veggies were harvested or plant between existing veggie crops.

Timing: Plant from August to late September. The sooner you plant cover crops the better so they are well established before winter. For more on Cover Crops click
here.

It's Powdery Mildew Season

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Powdery mildew has attacked this Tropicana rose.
Powdery Mildew: It is the time of the year where crops as well as garden plants develop powdery mildew. This white powdery disease is common on cucumbers, tuberous begonias, melons, phlox, roses, tomatoes and many other plants. To learn how to control this disease read more...

Planter TLC 

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Remove tired and sickly plants from planters and replace with evergreen perennials.
Heuchera 'Lime Marmalade',Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’, Ajuga,Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola',
'Lime Marmalade' coral bells, golden creeping jenny, bugle weed, Japanese forest grass.
Many plants growing in containers are pretty worn out this time of year, especially if they haven't been fed or regularly watered. To give planters a new lease on life, remove any old and tired annuals, or cut them back. If there's room, add some compost on top of the soil and/or slow release fertilizer. Cut back any spindly and unhealthy growth from the remaining plants. Remove any dead flowers and seed heads. Give the remaining plants a liquid feed of kelp or fish fertilizer or another liquid fertilizer for a quick pick-me-up.
​
For fall colour add dwarf asters, chrysanthemums, coral bells (Heuchera), blue fescue (Festuca glauca) and other featured plants available at garden centres. If you want them to last throughout the winter, select hardy plants that are a growing zone lower than your zone. For example, if you live in USDA Zone 8, select plants from Zone 7 and less. Leave room to plant some spring flowering bulbs when they arrive in stores next month. For more on container growing click here.
Aster novi-belgii 'Audrey',Audrey New York aster
'Audrey' a dwarf New York aster flowers through fall and is perfect for containers.

Harvesting Spuds

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  • New Potatoes: Harvest when plants flower. Prolong the harvest by plucking some out  of the soil. Cover the remaining potatoes with soil so they don't turn green. 
  • Main Harvest: To harvest mature taters, wait for the entire plant to wither and fade away. Don't water for a week, then dig them up with a garden fork. 
  • Cure: Brush off excess soil from the potatoes. Place in a dark and dry location to cure for 10 days before storing. Don't subject them to light as they will turn green. Provide good ventilation and a cool temperatures 10 to 16°C (50 to 60°F). 
  • Storing Taters: Rub off any soil and store in cardboard boxes, dark cloth sacs, or paper bags in a cool location, 4 to 7°C (40 to 45°F), away from frost, and humidity.  (fridge or unheated basement, garage). Any potatoes that were damaged while being harvested should be eaten as soon as possible and not stored as they will quickly rot. And don't store damp spuds.
  • For more on taters, click here. 

Harvesting Veggies

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A bountiful harvest.
Produce fresh from the garden are best picked in the morning as they are full of moisture and at their peak of freshness. To prevent the spread of diseases, wait for the morning dew to evaporate. 

To learn more about picking at the peak of perfection and how to harvest beans, cucumbers, zucchinis, onions, garlic, shallots, herbs, basil, asparagus, beans, broccoli, brussel sprouts, carrots, cauliflowers, corn, beets, eggplants, kale, parsnips, peas, peppers, tomatoes, root crops, click
here. ​   

Wilted Raspberries

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A healthy raspberry.
Lack of water may not be the cause of wilted raspberries, especially at their tips, it could be crown borers. Look for two rings at the stem below the wilted shoot, as that is where the adult crown borer deposited her eggs. Control is easy, just remove the part of the stem between the two rings and throw it out. If not removed, the larvae migrates down to the plant’s base. Infested canes break easily and die following year. Since the pupa overwinters in the soil, it is important to remove affected canes asap. 

Shrubs: After the Flowers

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Removing the dead flowers from this spirea will promote new stems, not seeds.
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The same Japanese spirea after deadheading and some light pruning.
Shrubs will survive without pruning after flowering, but it is the perfect time to tame and restore them. Removing faded blooms not only tidies up a plant, it redirects energy that would be used for seed production into leaves and stems.  It also prevents unwanted seedlings from popping up.  
Remove dead flowers by cutting back stems to a healthy, robust leaf, a cluster of leaves, a node (bud) or side branch. Angle the cuts to 45 degrees to allow water to run off.
After deadheading, remove any spindly, old, broken diseased and dead stems. Shorten stems by ¼ and cut just above a node (bud) on a 45 degree angle, or just above side branch. Just lopping off a shrub’s head with shears produces lots of little branches that become a tangled mess. When they are not cut above a node or side branch, stems die back to the closest bud and oftentimes, even beyond that.
Spring flowering shrubs: It’s too late in the year to cut them back as you will be removing next year’s flowers. 
For more on pruning click here.
Picture
Cut back branches to just above a leaf or side stem.

August Arrangement

August flowers,flower arrangement,August gardens,August flowers,summer gardening,pruning,harvesting,harvest,summer lawn care,turf,rose sawfly,Heritage Vancouver,drought,deadheading,pruning,tomato diseases,the garden website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett
August floral arrangement includes hydrangeas, gladiolus and lilies.
The red flowers are 'Traderhorn' gladiolus, the small white held in clusters are 'Bobo' hydrangea and the lilies on the table are 'Casa Blanca' oriental lilies.
Click here for more Monthly Arrangements. 

Plant of the month
Rose of Sharon
Hibiscus syriacus

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Rose of Sharon resembles its cousin, the tropical hibiscus.
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Many rose of Sharon blossoms have a splashy contrasting eye surrounding the base of the pistil stalk.
rose of Sharon,Hibiscus syriacus,fall flowering shrub,autumn flowering shrub,The Garden Website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett,garden website
Mature plants grow to 12 feet high and spread to 10 feet wide.
rose of Sharon,Hibiscus syriacus,fall flowering shrub,autumn flowering shrub,The Garden Website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett,garden website
A stunning red and white cultivar accentuates the pistil column in the flower's centre.
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A double variety.
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Flowers only last a day, but they are profuse with plants blossoming from July until frost.
rose of Sharon,Hibiscus syriacus,fall flowering shrub,autumn flowering shrub,The Garden Website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett,garden website
Rose of Sharon are tolerant of cold weather and are hardy USDA Zones 5 to 8.
rose of Sharon,Hibiscus syriacus,fall flowering shrub,autumn flowering shrub,The Garden Website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett,garden website
Seedlings under the parent plant are common when conditions are favourable.
​Common Name:  rose of Sharon
Botanical Name:  Hibiscus syriacus
Form:    upright vase, multi-stemmed
Family:  Malvaceae
Genus:  Hibiscus
Species:  syriacus
Plant Type: deciduous shrub
Mature Size:  8 to 12 feet x 6 to 10 feet
Growth: fast
Origin:  China to India
Hardiness Zone: 5 to 8
Foliage: palmate veined with 3 lobes and coarsely serrated margins up to 4 inches long
Flowers: June to October, circular flared 5 petalled blossoms up to 3 inches wide, single prominent pistil column with many stamens. Pinks, reds, purples and white, often with a colourful eye in the centre.
Fruit: seed pods with small black viable seeds in October
Exposure:  full sun to light shade
Soil:  Soil tolerant but prefers moist well-drained soil. Benefits from a layer of mulch. Aborts flower buds if soil is too dry.
Uses:  mix borders, hedgerow, naturalize, birds, butterflies, foundation, containers.
Propagation:   semi-hardwood cuttings just prior to flowering, seeds (seedlings may not resemble parent plant)
Pruning:  late winter before new growth emerges
​Problems:  self-seeds, no serious problems, slight susceptibility of Japanese beetles, whiteflies, aphids, rusts, blights.
Comments: 
Rose of Sharon are the hibiscus of the north. This showy shrub is a hardy relative of the more exotic and tropical hibiscus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (USDA Zones 9 to 11). Their hollyhock-like flowers last for just a day, however, they blossom for a few months in late summer to frost. Many cultivars are available with colours ranging from reds, blues, purples and whites. A protruding stamen laden pistil is surrounded by 5 petals for single varieties and many more for double varieties. A colourful contrasting ‘eye’ often surrounds the base of the pistil.
 
Rose of Sharon perform best in full sun in humus rich moist soil surrounded by 3 inches of an organic mulch. Although they like the heat of summer they do not like dry soil and will abort their flower buds if the soil is too dry. On the other hand, yellow foliage often indicates overwatering.
 
If conditions are satisfactory their seeds will form colonies around the mother plant. However, since the babies will not be identical to the parent plant, you might get some beauties – if you want to grow them on.
Winterkill:
Avoid fertilizing after July as new growth is susceptible to frost damage.
Winter Protection:
In Zones 5 and less, pile 6 inches of a winter mulch over the crown (where stem and roots meet).
Pruning
To prevent leggy-ness and encourage compact growth, cut back stems back to 2 to 3 buds in late winter to early spring.
Deadhead
​
Remove spent blossoms after flowering to prevent them from re-seeding in areas where it is a problem.
Birds & Wildlife: Blossoms are frequented by bees, butterflies and other pollinators. Their seeds provide food for many birds. 
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To encourage bushy growth, cut back stems to just above a bud (node) or leaf.
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Flowers preparing to open for the day.
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Serrated foliage bears 3 lobes and grow up to 4 inches long.
rose of Sharon,Hibiscus syriacus,fall flowering shrub,autumn flowering shrub,The Garden Website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett,garden website
Small black seeds are released from these capsules in October.
rose of Sharon,Hibiscus syriacus,fall flowering shrub,autumn flowering shrub,The Garden Website.com,Amanda’s Garden Consulting,Amanda Jarrett,garden website
The rose of Sharon is a cold hardy hibiscus species.

Need Help?

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Need help figuring what to do in your garden? Make an appointment for Amanda to come to your garden to show you how to grow food, sow seeds, prune, design beds etc.  Need help trying to figure out how to get the garden ready for spring? Get Amanda to teach you the ropes by making an appointment here. 

for the tropical Gardener

Ornamental Tropical Shrubs,Pineapple Press,Amanda Jarrett,thegardenwebsite.com
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here. 


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