A pink striped Japanese camellia named 'Carter's Sunburst'.
The Garden Website for March
New: Seedlings: Damping Off Disease
New: Lawns: Seeding, Sowing, Renovating - New: Lawn Grub Control
New: Tuberous Begonias 101 - New: Dahlias 101
Aphids - Spring Lawn Care - Sowing the Seeds
March Introduction - March Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog
March Garden Chores - March Garden Stars - Plant Police
March Arrangement - Need Help? - For the Tropical Gardener - Plant of the Month: Mediterranean Spurge
New: Lawns: Seeding, Sowing, Renovating - New: Lawn Grub Control
New: Tuberous Begonias 101 - New: Dahlias 101
Aphids - Spring Lawn Care - Sowing the Seeds
March Introduction - March Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog
March Garden Chores - March Garden Stars - Plant Police
March Arrangement - Need Help? - For the Tropical Gardener - Plant of the Month: Mediterranean Spurge
It's daffodil time! These lovelies have double trumpets.
March Intro
Saucer magnolias have huge impressive blossoms before they leaf out in spring.
During this time of crisis due to the Covid-19 virus, I hope you now have time to work in your garden, go for walks and enjoy the burgeoning spring flowers amid all the delirious birdsong
that fills the air. Happy gardening, take care and stay healthy. All the best to you, Amanda March is such a capricious month as spring still cowers to winters’ lingering sleight of hand. It isn’t unheard of for snow to smother tender flower buds and torrential rains to smash down daffodils’ nodding heads, however, the sun will eventually come out to gently embrace every flower, every plant. It’s all part and parcel of the erratic behaviour of this pivotal first month of spring.
No matter what this month throws at us, plants respond to the longer days and warmer temperatures including the hot breath of anxious gardeners. It’s such a joy to see plants wake from their chilly slumber and despite March being such a tease, it’s definitely spring. Alas the garden awaits for seeds to be sown, plants to be planted and beds to be tended. I sure hope my knees and back hold out for the duration for a floriferous, fun filled year! And if they don’t, I hope I can keep the moaning to a whisper so the neighbours can at least hear the lovely birdsong instead of me cursing – ahem. Happy spring! Cheers, Amanda 
English primrose hybrid, Primula acaulis.
Covid-19
See you on the other side of the garden fence when this is over.
Crocuses and primroses. Such a lovely coupling!
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Amanda's Garden Blog & Features
Nasturtiums are easy to grow from seed.
Check out my blog and articles on my gardening experiments, trials. tribulations and excursions. Click on the items below to be directed to its page.
To subscribe to my blog click here.
Weeping pussy willow, Salix caprea 'Pendula'.
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Ask Amanda: Rhododendron Leaf Spots
Lower leaves are first to show signs of this common rhododendron disease.
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Question: Hi Amanda, I am wondering what the brown spots on my rhododendron are, what causes them, and how to remedy them? Could it be Cercospora?
Answer: Hi Emily, yes, it certainly looks like Rhododendron Cercospora leaf spot (Cercospora handelii). It unsightly common rhodo fungal disease that takes its toll if conditions are not improved to reduce infection. Lower leaves are affected first with irregular brown spots that eventually the spots turn lighter tan in the center. Some have a yellow halo and some will have tiny dark pimples inside the larger spots. Those wee dimples are the vectors that spread the infection. Rake up infected leaves when they eventually fall off and discard so they don’t reinfect. To learn why and how this disease is spread and what to do about it click here. |
March Garden Stars
Rhododendron pemakoense, broadleaf evergreen shrub, 1'x2', part sun to shade. Zones 7 to 9.
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Oxlip, Primula elatior, herbaceous perennial, 10-12" height & width, sun to part shade, fragrant. Zones 4 to 9.
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Common violet, Viola sororia, herbaceous perennial, often evergreen, 4-6” x 4-6”, part sun to shade, self seeds. Zones 3 to 7.
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Hardy cyclamen, Cyclamen repandum, herbaceous perennial, 4 to 6”, partial shade. Zones 7 to 9.
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Boxleaf azara, Azara microphylla, broadleaf evergreen tree/shrub, vanilla scented pom-pom flowers late winter to early spring, 12-18’ x 8-12’, sun best. Zones 7 to 9.
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Evergreen clematis, Clematis 'Armandii', evergreen vigorous vine grows to 25 ft, fragrant flowers, sun to part sun, Zones 7 to 9.
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Pasque flower, Pulsatilla vulgaris (Anemone pulsatilla), herbaceous perennial, sun to part shade, 6-12” x 8 -12”, sun to part shade. Zones 2 to 9.
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Fritillaria imperialis, Crown imperial, spring flowering bulb, 3-4’ x 1-1.5’, fragrant, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 8.
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Pieris japonica, lily-of-the-valley shrub, broadleaf evergreen, sun to part shade, 9–12’ x 6–8’. Zones 5 to 8.
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Common lungwort, Pulmonaria officinalis, herbaceous perennial, shade to part shade, moist soil. Zones 3 to 8
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Euphorbia myrsinites, Donkey-tail spurge, succulent, evergreen herbaceous perennial, sprawling, 6-8” x 18-23”, sun, drought tolerant. Wear gloves as sap is an irritant. Zones 5 to 9.
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Double Play Big Bang Japanese spirea, deciduous shrub, 3-4’ tall and wide, sun, light shade, pink flowers in summer to fall, butterflies. Zones 4 to 9.
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Flowering currant, Ribes sanguineum, 5 to 8' x 3 to 5', full sun, part shade. Zones 5 to 8.
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Lutescens rhododendron, Rhododendron lutescens, broadleaf evergreen, 3-7’ x 4-5’, part sun. Zones 6 to 9.
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Daybreak Yoshino cherry, Prunus yedoensis 'Akebono', deciduous tree, 25’-35’ x 25’-40’, yellow fall colour, sun to light shade. Zones 5 to 8.
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Crimson & Gold Japanese quince, Chaenomeles x superba, deciduous shrub, 2-3ft tall & wide, sun to part shade, drought tolerant, long thorns, fragrant edible fruit. Zones 5 to 9.
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Creeping wall cress, Arabis x sturii, evergreen herbaceous perennial, 2-4” x 10-12”, fragrant, drought tolerant, sun. Zones 3 to 9.
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Apricot Queen barberry, Berberis x lologensis, broadleaf evergreen shrub, 6’-10’ tall & wide, sun to light shade, thorns, berries, drought tolerant. Zones 7 to 9.
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March PLANT COMBO
A sure sign it's spring. Magnolias, daffodils and lily-of-the-valley shrub.
This elegant and easy plant grouping combines the starry white flowers of a star magnolia (Magnolia stellata), the pinkish white flowers of the broadleaf evergreen lily-of-the-valley shrub (Pieris japonica) and fresh yellow faced King Alfred daffodils in the foreground.
plant police
This poor plant can't wiggle its toes into the soil because it's still in its pot.
I'm not sure what the logic is here. A compact burning bush (Euonymus alatus 'Compacta') has been planted pot and all! This will certainly curtail its growth but will also impair its health. Eventually it will just run out of soil. Since the roots are surrounded by a container and not soil, it will also have to be watered daily. It's just way more work and the plant will suffer.
Planting Trees & Shrubs
Planting Trees and Shrubs
Get any planting done sooner rather than later. Plants establish themselves more readily with cool temperatures and spring rains. The closer we get to summer, the drier and hotter it becomes, which hinders success. By that time, plants that were planted early in the spring should have a good root system so they can manage the heat and drought of summer. Here’s some quickie reference tips. For more detailed info check out the section on How to Plant.
Remove string, wire and cut off burlap as far as possible when planting ball and burlapped plants.
Protecting Seeds OUtdoors
It’s a sad day when seedlings poke out of the soil one day and are gone the next. There are numerous reasons why seeds disappear: slugs, snails, cutworms, birds and wireworms. To protect seedlings from birds and to further protect remaining plants from further infestations (carrot rust fly, cabbage worm, leaf minors), place them under a barrier that allows air, light and water through. A floating row cover is made from permeable fabric, spun bonded polyester, that is placed overtop crops to keep insects out. They are also referred to as cloches and they have an added advantage of providing a bit of insulation when the temperatures are chilly. To learn more about cloches click here.
For existing soil insects covering them with a floating row cover isn’t going to help, however, there are numerous organic solutions that will not contaminate soil nor crops. Diatomaceous earth is a common product used to control soft bodied insects. It’s made from fossilized remains of tiny aquatic organisms called diatoms. Composed of silica, they are sharp and dehydrate insects. Reapply according to the manufacturer’s instructions after rain or irrigation and follow all precautions – wear gloves and don’t breathe it in.
The Seedling Killer!
This cucumber seedling has succumbed to a common seedling disease.
Once seeds germinate they are vulnerable to the fungus Damping Off. Seedling stems become thin and thread-like, then they fall over and die. It is a quick death.
For more on sowing seeds indoors click here. 
Happy cucumber seedlings.
Lawns:
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A chafer grub.
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A crow takes a rest from stripping the lawn of chafer grubs - yummy!
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Correct lawn maintenance is the key to controlling these grubs that destroy lawns. It's all about mowing correctly, providing adequate water, ensuring the soil pH is within range and making sure those little grass plants not just have food, but the right food so the grass grows and not moss nor weeds.To learn more on how to make your lawn happy click here.
The crane fly lays it's eggs in lawns during August. It's larvae are referred to as leatherjackets.
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Leatherjackets are another grub that feeds on lawn roots.
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Spring Lawn Care
Holes made from aeration permits air and moisture into the roots.
What you do now will help define how healthy your grass will be. When it comes to lawns, timing is everything. Roots are wiggling their way into the soil while their foliage regenerates. Taking care of the roots now ensures a deep fibrous root systems that aids grass plants to endure environmental stresses such as heat and drought. There’s many ways to encourage healthy roots and it all depends on correct maintenance including mowing and watering. Learn the essentials for Spring Lawn Care here. For moss control click here. But what if you want to install a new lawn or renovate an established lawn? Click here to learn how.
Healthy lawns are a joy to walk on. They also filter water through their roots, provide oxygen and are an effective carbon sink.
Renovate & Install New Lawns
Now's the time put in that new lawn!
It’s cool and rainy – perfect for renovating lawns and planting new ones. Get it done now, before it gets too hot and dry. You’ll have way more success and by summer, your lawn will be well on its way. Seed or sod? It’s up to your budget. Sod is more expensive but you get an instant lawn; perfect for the front yard. Seeds are more labour intensive due to prep and ensuring seeds are kept moist at all times. Patience is also needed as it takes a while for the lawn to be useable, but it is much less expensive than sod. Backyards are often seeded to mitigate the price of sod used in the front garden. For more on planting and renovating lawns click here.
Water lawn seeds so they don't dry out.
Aphids
Lady bugs are feasting on aphids that have infested this artichoke.
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Ladybug larva. It's weird and scary looking, but don't kill it.
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Aphids: Check new growth on plants for aphid infestations. Look for any ladybugs and their pupa before killing any aphids. Either allow ladybugs to feed on their favorite food, or squish the aphids with your fingers while hosing them off. Avoid using soap or insecticides as it will kill all insects it touches. If aphids are a constant problem in your garden, avoid using nitrogen fertilizers (first number), which also includes nitrogen rich soil plant food and soil amendments such as manures and fish fertilizers. Click here for more on controlling insects.
Ladybug eggs. Don't kill them!
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This weird looking insect is the pupa of a Ladybug. Don't kill it!
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March Garden Chores
Click on any green items below to be redirected.
Free emerging bulbs caught up in leafy mulch.
Fall Leaves & Bulbs: Release any emerging bulbs that are caught in fall foliage.
Winter Mulch: Remove any winter mulch you laid down last fall from tender plants, including roses. If it’s still below freezing temperatures where you live, remove the layers as they thaw.
Winter Mulch: Remove any winter mulch you laid down last fall from tender plants, including roses. If it’s still below freezing temperatures where you live, remove the layers as they thaw.
Soil heats up faster in raised beds.
Cold Soil: Too cold to plant? Lay down clear or black plastic or use cloches. If soil is not warming up because it’s clay, mix in compost, well-rotted manure and other organic matter. (Don’t add sand as clay and sand make concrete.) Another option is to make raised beds and fill with a nice garden loam. Because they are raised off the ground, soil warms up quickly.
Garden Beds: Remove debris, weeds and rocks. Add compost, as much as possible, or just a couple of inches of well-rotted steer, sheep or cow manure. Using a garden fork to mix everything together then rake level. Wait a week to plant. To learn about building soil click here.
Warm Soil & Kill Weed Seedlings: If you want to get a jump on spring, warm up veggie beds with clear plastic stretched over the soil and weighed down at the ends with rocks.
Soil Building: Happy plants begin with good soil. Learn the basics of how to make lovely soil here.
New Beds: Use garden hose to outline curved beds or use stakes and twine to outline angular beds. For new beds. There’s no need to dig up the grass if you use the lasagna sheet mulching method. To learn more click here.
Cover Crops & Green Manure: Dig in overwintering green manure such as annual ryegrass. To learn more about cover crops click here.
Garden Beds: Remove debris, weeds and rocks. Add compost, as much as possible, or just a couple of inches of well-rotted steer, sheep or cow manure. Using a garden fork to mix everything together then rake level. Wait a week to plant. To learn about building soil click here.
Warm Soil & Kill Weed Seedlings: If you want to get a jump on spring, warm up veggie beds with clear plastic stretched over the soil and weighed down at the ends with rocks.
Soil Building: Happy plants begin with good soil. Learn the basics of how to make lovely soil here.
New Beds: Use garden hose to outline curved beds or use stakes and twine to outline angular beds. For new beds. There’s no need to dig up the grass if you use the lasagna sheet mulching method. To learn more click here.
Cover Crops & Green Manure: Dig in overwintering green manure such as annual ryegrass. To learn more about cover crops click here.
Put up cages and stake plants before they need it.
Stake: Don’t wait to stake plants. At least put the stakes next to delphiniums and other tall plants and secure them as they grow. Cage peonies and floppy plants now so they will grow through the cage and tie where necessary.
Spring Bulbs: Once they have finished flowering, remove any spent flowers on narcissus and tulips so they don’t go to seed. Allow foliage to yellow before cutting them back.
Ornamental Grasses: Cut them back to an inch preferably before the grass starts to grow.
Trees: Check staked trees to ensure they are not being strangled. Remove stakes and ties if the trees are stable and no longer need staking.
Spring Bulbs: Once they have finished flowering, remove any spent flowers on narcissus and tulips so they don’t go to seed. Allow foliage to yellow before cutting them back.
Ornamental Grasses: Cut them back to an inch preferably before the grass starts to grow.
Trees: Check staked trees to ensure they are not being strangled. Remove stakes and ties if the trees are stable and no longer need staking.
Kale: Don’t discard last year’s kale if it isn’t dead. Keep harvesting foliage and when their flowers emerge, cut them off and cook them up or add to salads. Removing the flowers will extend the life of the kale so you can keep harvesting for another summer. Kale are cool that way.
Onions & Shallots: Select a sunny, dry location to plant the onion and shallot sets. Cover them with netting or floating row covers to prevent birds from digging them up. They not naughty, just hungry.
Asparagus: Plant asparagus crowns in their permanent location in well-drained soil in full sun.
Strawberries: Plant in a well-drained, sunny location.
Potatoes: It’s time to plant taters when dandelions flower. Prepare them for planting by chitting, which encourages sprouting. Chit seed potatoes by placing them upright in egg cartons in a bright, frost free location. To learn more click here.
Veggies in Planters: Sow these cold hardy plants in planters using potting soil, not garden soil: broad beans, peas, Swiss chard, spinach, lettuce, onion and shallot sets, kale and potatoes. To learn more about growing in containers click here.
Add Lime with Brassicas: Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli and other cole crops to prevent club root, a persistent disease common on soils that are too acidic.
Don’t Lime Potatoes: Don’t add lime when planting potatoes as it promotes potato scab. For more on growing spuds click here.
How to Grow Veggies: To learn the basics as well as companion planting, crop rotation, succession planting and more click here.
Asparagus: Plant asparagus crowns in their permanent location in well-drained soil in full sun.
Strawberries: Plant in a well-drained, sunny location.
Potatoes: It’s time to plant taters when dandelions flower. Prepare them for planting by chitting, which encourages sprouting. Chit seed potatoes by placing them upright in egg cartons in a bright, frost free location. To learn more click here.
Veggies in Planters: Sow these cold hardy plants in planters using potting soil, not garden soil: broad beans, peas, Swiss chard, spinach, lettuce, onion and shallot sets, kale and potatoes. To learn more about growing in containers click here.
Add Lime with Brassicas: Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli and other cole crops to prevent club root, a persistent disease common on soils that are too acidic.
Don’t Lime Potatoes: Don’t add lime when planting potatoes as it promotes potato scab. For more on growing spuds click here.
How to Grow Veggies: To learn the basics as well as companion planting, crop rotation, succession planting and more click here.
Companion planting just means growing different veggies in the same bed together.
Compost: Turn the pile putting the less decomposed material from the outside of the heap to the middle. Add water if dry, add torn newspaper if wet. For more on how to compost click here.
Slugs & Snails: They are out in full force and they are hungry. Learn how to control them here.
Protect Crops: Protect carrots from carrot rust fly, cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower with a cloche or a floating row cover. To learn how click here.
Slugs & Snails: They are out in full force and they are hungry. Learn how to control them here.
Protect Crops: Protect carrots from carrot rust fly, cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower with a cloche or a floating row cover. To learn how click here.
Wait to prune trees and shrubs if they have already sprouted new foliage like this katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum).
Plant Flowers: Plant pansies, primrose, potted flowering spring bulbs and other early flowering plants in garden beds and planters. Check your local nurseries for their floral selection.
Pruning: Cut back buddleias (butterfly bushes), rose-of-Sharon, potentillas, Japanese spireas and other summer and fall flowering shrubs and trees. Cut back junipers, yews before new growth begins. Avoid pruning deciduous trees and shrubs once they have leafed out. Also refrain from pruning oaks, hydrangeas and spring flowering plants. For more on pruning click here.
Trees & Shrubs: Remove any broken, dead and diseased growth.
Roses: Prune roses once the forsythia flower, which is usually March in most areas of North America and the UK. For more click here. Remove any winter mulch from the crown and any infected debris from the soil around the plant. Mix in a couple of inches of compost, SeaSoil or composted animal manure. To check out the Rose Section click here.
Pruning Clematis: Should you? To learn all about pruning clematis click here.
Trees & Shrubs: Remove any broken, dead and diseased growth.
Roses: Prune roses once the forsythia flower, which is usually March in most areas of North America and the UK. For more click here. Remove any winter mulch from the crown and any infected debris from the soil around the plant. Mix in a couple of inches of compost, SeaSoil or composted animal manure. To check out the Rose Section click here.
Pruning Clematis: Should you? To learn all about pruning clematis click here.
Lawns: Mow the lawn when it’s dry and just give it a light trim when it reaches 3 inches in length. Just take off a third of growth. For Spring Lawn maintenance click here.
Lawn & Garden Weeds: Kill weed seeds as they germinate with corn gluten. It is an organic product that also contains a gentle dose of nitrogen.
Weed: Get them now by their roots before they take over. Hoe garden soil where weed seedlings are congregating.
Horsetail weed: Keep pulling them as they poke out of the ground. For more click here.
Lawn & Garden Weeds: Kill weed seeds as they germinate with corn gluten. It is an organic product that also contains a gentle dose of nitrogen.
Weed: Get them now by their roots before they take over. Hoe garden soil where weed seedlings are congregating.
Horsetail weed: Keep pulling them as they poke out of the ground. For more click here.
Divide Perennials: Dig up plants, remove remaining dead and unproductive growth and discard. Divide the remaining plant into sections and replant or pot up to sell or give away.
Root & Basal Cuttings: Make more asters, chrysanthemums and other herbaceous perennials with basal cuttings and root division. For more click here.
Root & Basal Cuttings: Make more asters, chrysanthemums and other herbaceous perennials with basal cuttings and root division. For more click here.
Before pruning trees and shrubs, check for any bird nests and refrain from pruning.
Birdies: Continue to feed birds with seeds and suet to help them get ready to produce and care for their young. Clean any vacant nests, clean dirty bird feeders and put out shallow water dishes if there is a need.
Greenhouses: Clean and disinfect all surfaces inside and out. It’s got to be done.
Tools, Plant Pots etc: Clean, sharpen and disinfect pruners and plant pots with 1 part disinfectant (Pinesol, Lysol) to 2 parts water. Lubricate cleaned tools by spraying with vegetable oil such as Pam.
Greenhouses: Clean and disinfect all surfaces inside and out. It’s got to be done.
Tools, Plant Pots etc: Clean, sharpen and disinfect pruners and plant pots with 1 part disinfectant (Pinesol, Lysol) to 2 parts water. Lubricate cleaned tools by spraying with vegetable oil such as Pam.
Sowing the Seeds
I always plant too many tomato seedlings - oh my!
Sow Seeds Indoors: tomatoes, peppers, eggplants (aubergines), cabbage, lettuce, celery, beets, chard, zinnias, marigolds, calendula, nasturtiums, sweet peas, snap dragons. To learn more click here.
Sow Veggie Seeds Outdoors: If the soil is dripping wet and cold, wait to plant until conditions improve then sow peas, broad beans, spinach, parsnips, radish, lettuce. Swiss chard, arugula, corn salad, kale, collards, For more on Sowing Seeds Outdoors click here.
Sweet Peas: Soak seed for 2 to 8 hours then plant in pots and place in a sunny frost free location to give them a head start.
Sow Flower Seeds Outdoors: Sow where they are to grow by removing all debris and rake to a fine tilth then sow the seeds according to the seed packet instructions. Keep moist until seeds germinate and do NOT fertilize: clarkia, cornflowers, poppies, borage, cleome, cosmos, Bishop’s flower (Ammi majus), calendula, wallflowers and wildflower mixes. If frost is predicted, cover with a layer of spunbonded polyester (Reemay), a light garden frost blanket (available at plant nurseries). For more on sowing outdoors click here.
Sow Veggie Seeds Outdoors: If the soil is dripping wet and cold, wait to plant until conditions improve then sow peas, broad beans, spinach, parsnips, radish, lettuce. Swiss chard, arugula, corn salad, kale, collards, For more on Sowing Seeds Outdoors click here.
Sweet Peas: Soak seed for 2 to 8 hours then plant in pots and place in a sunny frost free location to give them a head start.
Sow Flower Seeds Outdoors: Sow where they are to grow by removing all debris and rake to a fine tilth then sow the seeds according to the seed packet instructions. Keep moist until seeds germinate and do NOT fertilize: clarkia, cornflowers, poppies, borage, cleome, cosmos, Bishop’s flower (Ammi majus), calendula, wallflowers and wildflower mixes. If frost is predicted, cover with a layer of spunbonded polyester (Reemay), a light garden frost blanket (available at plant nurseries). For more on sowing outdoors click here.
Protect plants, seeds and seedlings with spun-bonded polyester. It allows air, light and water through but not birds and flying insects.
Flower Power!
Pot up cannas into fresh soil, water, place in a frost free location to give them a head start.
Tuberous Begonias: Pot them up now. For more on how to grow tuberous begonias click here.
Gladiolus: Plant two weeks before last expected frost.
Overwintered Geraniums (Pelargoniums): Remove spindly stems, sickly foliage and cut back remaining stems by half. Repot in the same pot with fresh potting soil. Trim roots to fit pot if necessary or repot into a pot one to 2 inch larger. Add a slow release granule plant food. Water and place a sunny window or under lights. Harden off before placing outside after the danger of frost has past.
Dahlias: Start early by planting in pots. This gives them a good head start and protects new growth form slugs. For more on Dahlias click here.
Gladiolus: Plant two weeks before last expected frost.
Overwintered Geraniums (Pelargoniums): Remove spindly stems, sickly foliage and cut back remaining stems by half. Repot in the same pot with fresh potting soil. Trim roots to fit pot if necessary or repot into a pot one to 2 inch larger. Add a slow release granule plant food. Water and place a sunny window or under lights. Harden off before placing outside after the danger of frost has past.
Dahlias: Start early by planting in pots. This gives them a good head start and protects new growth form slugs. For more on Dahlias click here.
Plant up dahlias in pots now so they will flower sooner.
March Arrangement
A Delft Blue hyacinth is surrounded by the pink and blue flowers of the lungwort. Not a pretty name for such a pretty plant.
March Plant of the month
Mediterranean Spurge
EUPHORBIA CHARACIAS WULFENII
Mediterranean spurge puts on quite the show in early spring.
The flowers lack petals, instead they have chartreuse coloured bracts.
Mediterranean spurge used as a focal point with blue lithodora in the foreground.
Water beads on the succulent, waxy foliage.
Spurge does well in pots as well as the ground at VanDusen Botanical Gardens.
Flowers spiral around the stems.
The Tasmanian Tiger spurge looks good year round.
The Tasmanian Tiger Mediterranean spurge is a knock-out with grey-green leaves with creamy coloured margins. Chartreuse flowers with green blotches on creamy bracts.
Remove the stems once they have flowered to make way for more stems.
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Common Name: Mediterranean spurge
Botanical Name: Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii Form: upright with rounded canopy Family: Euphorbiaceae Genus: Euphorbia Species: characias Subspecies: wulfenii Plant Type: herbaceous perennial, evergreen where winter’s aren’t harsh Mature Size: 2 - 3ft x 1.5 – 2’ Growth: fast Origin: Southern Europe Hardiness Zone: 6 to 9 (winter protection in Zone 6) Foliage: narrow, linear grass shaped with a blue-green hue up to 5” long that spiral around the stems like a bottlebrush Flowers: chartreuse (greenish-yellow), lack petals but have yellow bracts Fruit: Stems: succulent stems that bleed a white milky sap that is a toxic irritant Exposure: full sun best Soil: prefers a drier well-drained soil, dislike heavy clay and wet soils Uses: rock gardens, water wise gardens, mixed borders, seaside gardens, deer and rabbit resistant, Mediterranean, deer & rabbit resistant, attracts butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. Propagation: herbaceous cuttings Pruning: Remove flowers at their base after flowering to allow space for new stems, Problems: Wear gloves when handling as their milky sap irritates skin and is also toxic. Pest resistant. Comments: The Mediterranean spurge looks good year round but steals the show when its stems are topped with domed with huge flowers clusters in early spring. Their blossoms are rather unusual as they are composed of waxy yellow bracts instead of delicate colourful petals. It is a bold and bodacious plant with plume-like blue-green foliage that spirals around the stems so they resemble bottle brushes. This plant originates from the Mediterranean where it’s hot and dry with gritty soil that drains freely. It’s also salt tolerant so it is perfect for seaside gardens, however, it does not like clay soils, soggy soils and shade, which promotes roots rot and its ultimate demise. It’s surprisingly quite hardy to minus 15°C (5°F) and is suitable from Zones 6 to 9, however, it’s recommended to protect them in Zone 6 over the winter. If winters are not severe, it will stay green and not die back. If it does, it will regrow from the roots in spring. If it’s too cold to grow outside, this plant is so versatile it can be grown as a houseplant as well as overwintered indoors. Just bring it outside in the summer so it can soak up summer’s sunshine. Because it is drought tolerant use in water-wise gardens and rockeries. Plant among other sun-loving perennials, use as a specimen in early spring gardens and place in mix borders to fill in between shrubs. A valuable early flowering plant for bees, which love its nectar and pollen. Also attracts hummingbirds and butterflies but deters deer and rabbits. Wear gloves and be careful when handling any Euphorbia, including poinsettias, as their stems exude a toxic milky sap that often irritates skin and eyes. It is also toxic when eaten. Don’t forget to clean any pruning equipment and wash your gloves. Propagate With Cuttings Euphorbias, including the Mediterranean spurge, are easy to propagate from cuttings. The best time is in early spring before flowers emerge. Wearing gloves, make cuttings that includes 4 to 8 sets of leaves. Cut the cutting off the stem just under a leaf or node. Remove the lower leaves and the growing tip of the plant. Rinse the sap from the cut ends with cool water and allow to dry. This allows the cut tissues to form a callous in preparation for the formation of roots. Place the cuttings in a clean pot full of fresh, clean potting soil that is 20 to 50% sand. Good drainage is essential to prevent rotting. Water gently and place in a bright location out of direct sun. Place it on a heating mat if you have one as bottom heat will stimulate root growth. Place in full sun when new growth emerges. Don’t repot or plant outside until roots fill the pot. 
Hummingbirds, bees and butterflies love the flowers.
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