An autumnal vignette featuring pumpkins, hydrangeas and firethorn berries.
The Garden Website for October
Colourful Fall Plants - Why Leaves Change Colour
Mushrooms & Toadstools - Overwintering Tender Bulbs - In the Veggie Garden
Fall Garden Chores - Caterpillar Control - Protecting Planters - Planters for Fall
Pruning - Fall Lawn Care - Winter Protection - Lawn Alternatives
October Introduction - October Plant Combo - October Garden Chores
October Flower Arrangement - October Plant of the Month: Ash Trees
Need Help? - Learn How to Prune - Ornamental Tropical Shrubs
Mushrooms & Toadstools - Overwintering Tender Bulbs - In the Veggie Garden
Fall Garden Chores - Caterpillar Control - Protecting Planters - Planters for Fall
Pruning - Fall Lawn Care - Winter Protection - Lawn Alternatives
October Introduction - October Plant Combo - October Garden Chores
October Flower Arrangement - October Plant of the Month: Ash Trees
Need Help? - Learn How to Prune - Ornamental Tropical Shrubs
A nicely placed hydrangea admires its image in the nearby mirror.
October Intro
A lesson in companion planting. On the left, is corn and peas. On the right is corn and runner beans.
Hello Fellow Gardeners,
It is with a heavy heart I pull our tomato plants out of the ground. No longer will we be able to pluck the red, sweet and juicy fruit warmed by the sun straight from the vine. No more delicious fresh salsa and tomato sandwiches…sigh. The growing season is over so I will have to suffer from store bought tomatoes until next summer. They just don’t quite cut it when it comes to flavour, as anyone who’s grown their own tomatoes can attest to. When it comes to the veggie gardening I try to do something new and different to stretch my knowledge and my garden. This year I tried my hand at companion planting corn, with peas and scarlet runner beans. It was an interesting experiment. I took a page from the Three Sisters companion planting method that originated in South America many centuries before Europeans arrived in the Americas. Instead of growing different crops separately, the Iroquois grew corn, beans and squash together. The corn provides a support for the pole beans while adding nitrogen to the corn and squash. The squash provides a ground cover to shade the soil to keep moisture in and weeds at bay. It is an intelligent design as the Three Sisters provide a nutritious diet while sustaining soil health. I was curious to see if there was a difference between growing peas up the corn or runner beans. The peas sprouted first and struggled to find the corn to support themselves, as so did the beans. The peas were well behaved and grew up the corn stalks at a similar pace of the corn as they grew in harmony. I helped them up the corn stalks, which they happily twirled around and soon we were harvesting peas. However, the scarlet runner beans just took over. They overpowered the corn, the path and the nearby leeks. They grew so quickly the corn was overwhelmed and so was I. I hacked them back numerous times and had to stake the corn upright as it became entangled with the twining bean stems and tendrils. We got loads of runner beans, which was great, however, the corn under-performed. No wonder - as they became smothered by the aggressive beans. So lesson learned there – I’m growing peas with the corn next year, but I might just try a different type of pole bean. Maybe scarlet runner beans are just too jolly. Perhaps a regular pole bean would be less aggressive. Hmmm… worthy of another experiment methinks! And that is one part of gardening I enjoy – experimenting. It’s amazing how much you learn especially when things don’t work out the way you think they are going to. Since it is the closing of the growing season, I hope you had many successes in your garden and that any failures you had proved to be a learning experience. If not, just blame it on the weather! Cheers, Amanda 
The scarlet runner beans ran all over the corn and neighbouring leeks.
October PLANT COMBO
A combination of all flowering plants for a sunny garden.
This autumnal plant combination is for sunny locations and consists of perennials and conifers. The 'Blue Suprise' false cypress (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Blue Surprise' provides an all season grey-blue permanent vertical accent as well as background to the foreground plants. The yellow daisies 'Goldsturm' black-eyed susans (Rudbeckia fulgida 'Goldsturm') are a reliable perennial favorite that flower from summer well into autumn. The purple daisies are 'Wood's Purple' michaelmas daisies also know as fall asters. These are a dwarf variety that only grow to 18 inches and flower slightly later than the black-eyed susans and well into autumn. The plant at the very front is 'Munstead' is an English lavender. If flowers during the summer with purple, fragrant blossoms, and they have evergreen fragrant foliage.
plant police
Don't be afraid when toadstools pop up in the garden. They have a job to do.
It’s common for wild mushrooms to magically appear this time of year. As part of nature’s recycling crew, they break down any organic matter that’s either on top the soil or within it. They’ll often appear where a tree once grew, shadowing their buried roots as they break them down.
When toadstools pop up in the lawn, don't mow them down, as it spreads their spores and scatters the broken pieces. A better idea is to pluck them from the lawn and discard them. This ensures that they are not eaten by children and animals, especially dogs, as they seem to like them. Both mushrooms and toadstools come in a vast array of sizes, colours and shapes. It’s often quite difficult to differentiate between edible wild mushrooms from toxic toadstools. This is why it is not advisable to eat any of them unless you are educated in telling the difference between the two. 
The fly agaric toadstool, Amanita muscaria, is pretty but it's also poisonous.
WHy do Leaves Change COlour
The Japanese zelkova tree displays the other colours hidden under their green pigment.
Autumnal colours of red, orange and yellow show us mere mortals, that plants know that winter is fast approaching. Short days, long nights coupled with lower temperatures stimulate all plants that summer is over. In response, plants prepare for dormancy by collecting the food from their leaves and storing it in their stems and roots. Their green pigment (chlorophyll) is responsible for making food for the plant. Once autumnal conditions occur, the degrading chlorophyll is not replaced and other pigments become prominent. These pigments, anthocyanin (red) and carotene (yellow) become visible. Some autumns are not as brilliant as others due to frosts and wet, dull weather. With any luck the colours will be fantastic this year so let’s hope for a nice long, sunny and mild fall.
Briliant colours of an American ash called 'Autumn Applause'.
Colourful FALL Plants
A full moon maple (Acer japonicum).
If you envy gardens full of gorgeous fall colour it's worth your while to check out your local garden centre for their autumnal selection. They will be showing their best colours From shrubs to trees there's something for everyone and every garden. Just read the labels to find out if they like sun or shade and how tall and wide they will become. For a list of colourful fall plants including ornamental grasses click on Colourful Fall Plants
Three different Japanese maples are all aglow with their fall colours.
The Veggie Garden Step by Step
Harvest carrots as you need them.
Make a Map: Before deconstructing the veggie garden, do a quick sketch or at least take a photo of where everything is so you don’t plant the same crop in the same space next year. Rotating crops reduces diseases and insects on next year’s veggies, plus it reduces nutrient deficiencies. To learn more about vegetable gardening click on Crop Rotation, Succession & Companion Planting
Harvest: Gather any remaining crops and discard any unhealthy ones including those lying on the ground. If you are unsure on when to harvest specific crops click on Harvesting. Clean & Tidy: Remove all dead, dying, diseased remnants of any crops from the soil as you don’t want any diseases or insects overwintering and re-infesting next year’s veggies. Composting Crop Debris: Avoid putting anything buggy or diseased in the compost. This includes seedy weeds and ones with runners such as bindweed (wild morning glory), buttercups, ground ivy and horsetails. Crops to Keep: Brussel sprouts, chard, cabbage, turnips, kale & carrots become tastier with a slight frost so keep on harvesting as long as the plants are producing and tasting good. For more on veggie gardening click here. Tomatoes: To prevent overwintering insects, diseases and any volunteer seedlings that may pop up next year clean up ALL tomato debris including any left on the ground. If you want to save the seeds of tasty tomatoes for next year click here to learn how. Plant garlic! Select a well-drained, sunny site and add some compost, as they are heavy feeders. Break apart the cloves from the bulb and plant them 2 to 3 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart. Don’t forget to label! Harvest next summer. Cure winter squash: After harvesting acorn, spaghetti squash and pumpkins, place in a warm, frost free location to cure for 4 to 5 days. To prevent mould, wipe them down first with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Store at 10 to 15°C (50 to 60°F). Protect the Soil: Once veggie beds have been cleaned up, cover the soil with 3 inches of straw, fall leaves or shredded newspaper. This prevents heavy rains from leaching away nutrients, eroding soil and weeds from taking hold. It’s a bit too late to plant many cover crops such as crimson clover, but if you live in the Pacific Northwest and the weather holds out, try fava beans, fall rye, winter wheat and white mustard. A good source for cover crops is West Coast Seeds. Sow Seeds or Starter Plants: Sow seeds or starter plants of hardy plants for a winter garden: kale, beets, broad (fava) beans, radishes and spinach. For more on winter gardening click here.
Overwintering Tender Bulbs
Wait for gladiolus foliage to yellow before digging them up and storing for winter.
Tuberous begonias need to be stored in a dry, dark, frost free location.
Dig up gladiolus, dahlias, tuberous begonias and other tender bulbs after a frost or when plants are obviously dying down for winter. Cure before storing in a cool, frost free and dry location. Click on the following links for more info on: Dahlias, Tuberous Begonias
Store tender summer bulbs in cardboard boxes, cover with vermiculite, peat or potting soil and place in a cool, frost free location.
Preparing the Garden For WInter
It's best to remove and compost hosta's 'melting' foliage.
Chop & drop healthy daylily foliage.
Sustainability: It is a misconception that gardens must be cleaned in autumn to such a degree that there is no debris left on top of the soil and that all plants are cut back. That used to be the way, but now we know that if we want to reduce our workload and the need for fertilizers, we need to make our gardens more sustainable.
No Raking: When preparing the garden, do remove all diseased plants and their infected debris, but don’t rake the beds clean. Research has found that fallen leaves and other organic debris is essential for plant and soil health. It provides homes for lady bugs, lacewings and other beneficial insects so they can overwinter. That debris also adds nutrition as it decomposes. Cutting Back: Cut down perennials (non-woody) to 6 inches. Any hollow stems provide a place for beneficial insects to overwinter. Pull out weeds including their roots and runners as best you can. Avoid cutting back ornamental grasses as their seed heads provide overwintering birds with food. Chop & Drop: When cutting back cone flowers, chrysanthemums, and other herbaceous perennials, don't discard those healthy and blemish free leaves and stems; just pile it around the plant. This chop and drop method provides added winter protection. Don’t do this if the plant is sickly. Always remove and discard peony leaves every fall to prevent Peony Blotch/Measles. Water if Necessary: Water plants protected from rain (under eaves and trees) and those in containers, before freezing temperatures arrive. Dry soil reduces plant hardiness and resilience to freezing temperatures. For more details click on Fall Garden Chores. 
Hydrangea flowers make a pretty and effective chop and drop mulch.
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Amanda's Garden Blog & New articles
An October apple is ripe for pickin'.
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Colourful gourds.
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Confused?
If you need some guidance to get your garden ready for winter book an appointment for a consultation here. All Covid-19 protocols are followed.
October Garden Chores
Plant spring flowering bulbs now. 'Antoinette' multiple flowering single late tulip pictured.
Plant spring flowering bulbs. Wrap tulip bulbs with chicken wire when planting. Dust all bulbs with cinnamon as it is a natural fungicide and sprinkle with bone meal to promote root growth. For more click on Spring Flowering Bulbs
Winter Bedding Plants: Plant cold hardy bedding plants: winter pansies, primroses, ornamental kale and cyclamen. Annuals/Bedding Plants: Remove spent petunias and other bedding plants from garden beds and planters. 
Inspect geraniums and other plants you brought inside to overwinter for insects and any slugs and snails.
Perennials: Divide overgrown summer and fall flowering perennials. Replant them in new spots in the garden or plant them in pots to sell or give away in spring.
New Beds: Need more gardens? Now is a good time to prep a new bed so it is ready for spring. Try your hand at sheet mulching also referred to as lasagna gardening, as it is an easy time saver. 
Snapdragons only last one season, but their seeds are hardy and will overwinter. Anthurium 'Chantilly' pictured.
Hardy Seeds: For annuals with hardy seeds such as snapdragons, nasturtiums, lobelia, alyssum, calendula and cleome, gather and save their seedheads or leave them in situ to sprout in spring. The same things goes for biennials: pansies, hollyhocks, sweet williams, wall flowers and foxgloves. To learn about collecting seeds click on Collecting Seeds
Cuttings: Take hardwood cuttings from deciduous shrubs and evergreens now through winter and early spring. Take cuttings from dormant, mature stems with firm wood that doesn’t easily bend. 
Pull bind weeds from the ground, don't dig them up as they'll spread even more. And don't compost them either.
Weed: Hand weeding is quick and efficient. Try your best to get all the runners, roots, seeds heads and flowers. After weeding, put down 3 inches of mulch to prevent more weeds from growing.
Compost: Don’t compost buggy and diseased plants, seedy weeds and invasive plants unless your compost bin is hot and reaches 60°C (140°F) for 2 weeks. Turn the compost add water if needed and finish it off with 4 to 6 inch layer of fall leaves or torn newspaper. 
Help out hummingbirds during the winter if they don't migrate elsewhere.
Hummingbirds: Keep feeders stocked with nectar (add 1 cup of boiling water to 1/4 cup of sugar, allow to cool). Take the time to wash and rinse feeders thoroughly before adding more.
Birds: Seeds and suet help out city birds especially during the winter. Suet provides the extra fat needed for them to make it through the winter. Make sure you keep the feeders filled as they will depend on your for survival. Keep feeders clean as mold, mildew and bacteria will kill our fine feathered friends. 
Move fertilizers, seeds and other products from your shed to a frost free and dry area over the winter.
Garden Shed: Move fertilizers, seeds and other products to a frost free area over the winter. While you are at it, you might as well give a good clean and tidy.
Outdoor Furniture: Remove patio furniture or cover them but do relocate them to a sheltered location. Place any pillows and soft furnishings indoors to prevent mould. 
Clear out storm drains to prevent flooding.
Storm Drains & Eaves: Prevent flooding by removing fallen leaves and other debris. Check periodically especially after a storm, strong winds and heavy rains. Don't forget to clean out the gutters, before it gets too nasty to do so.
Garden Hose: Once your gardening chores have ended, drain the garden hose, remove the nozzle, and store. Tools: Clean and store all your garden tools in a dry place away from the weather. Sharpen pruning equipment and spray all tools with vegetable oil, such as Pam. Lawn Mowers: To store mowers and to prepare them for next year, remove the mower blade, clean and sharpen. Scrape off any caked-on grass on the mower deck. Remove the batteries on cordless mowers. For gas mowers, drain the gas tank, disconnect and clean 
Bougainvilleas are tender and will die if left outside during the winter months unless you live in USDA Zones 10 and up.
Overwintering Tender Plants: Move frost tender plants such as geraniums, bougainvilleas, allamandas, mandevillas, gingers, coleus, angel trumpets (Brugmansia spp., Datura spp.) and fuchsias inside as soon as possible, if you want to save them for next year. For more info, click on banana-palm-tree-winter-protection.html
and saving-geraniums-coleus-bougainvillea-other-tender-plants.html Pruning
Remove suckers that arise from the roots and trunk at their origin, even if you have to dig down to get them.
It’s really too late in the year to do any pruning. The only thing to remove are dead, diseased, broken branches, suckers and watersprouts. Wait until winter to prune plants when they are dormant.
Planters for Fall
If you don't want to make up your own seasonal planters, your local nursery will have many to choose from.
A welcoming planter by the front door is good to lift the soul on those dark, dreary winter days. Either plant up a new planter or dress up an existing one that’s clinging onto fading petunias and other annuals. Just remove any spent plants and replace with some fall and winter flora.
For all types of planters, existing ones or new ones, visit your local nursery for winter pansies, ornamental kale, primroses, heather and other fall lovelies that will be on display. For perennial plants, select ones one or two hardiness zone lower. So if you live in zone 6, select plants hardy to zone 5 and lower. Don’t forget to include snowdrops, narcissus, crocus and other spring flowering bulbs. To make it more interesting, add some ornamental gourds, attractive twigs such as curly willow or red twig dogwood. Get funky! 
For seasonal interest add a few gourds or other funky fall decor.
Protecting planted Planters
If you don't want to bury a planter in the garden, wrap the pot to keep the roots warmer.
Protecting Plants in Planters: Place planters in a protective area against the house, under the eaves. Keep an eye on them so Check on them throughout the winter to ensure they don’t dry out. Remove all drainage trays underneath planters left outside so plants don’t drown.
Where winters are severe, insulate roots by wrapping the containers with bubble wrap, Styrofoam, blankets, mats or whatever. If there is room, add at least 3 inches of an organic mulch on the soil surface. Another option is to bury the pots in the garden. The thermal heat from the earth is an excellent insulator. Just dig a hole wide enough and deep enough to accommodate the plant pot, then nestle it into the ground. Add a label or stake to remind you where they are when spring rolls around. Caterpillar Control
Stop insects in their tracks by wrapping trees with a sticky tree band.
To prevent forest tent caterpillars and other insects from feasting on your trees, fruit trees and ornamental Japanese cherry trees, apply tree bands now. These sticky traps stop insects in their tracks before the can cause any damage. Wrap a 15 centimetre (6 inch) wide band of plastic wrap or foil backed pink insulation around tree trunks at a convenient height. Spread Tanglefoot ® on the band. Wear rubber gloves and use an old or foam paintbrush, or sturdy stick to spread this sticky, thick goopy stuff. As insects emerge from the soil in spring they will attempt to crawl up the trunk only to encounter the sticky trap. The Tanglefoot will stop them from going any farther. Remove the banding in spring.
For more click here. |
October Garden Stars
Autumn crocus, Colchicum autumnale, corm, 6 to 10”, leaves appear in spring then disappear, only flowers appear in fall, sun to shade. Zones 4 to 8.
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Ornamental kale, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, biennial, 1’x 15”, grown for foliage, sun to part shade. Zones 2-9. Click on the pic for more.
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Beautyberry, Callicarpa bodinieri, North American deciduous shrub, 6-10', sun to part shade. Zones 6-8.
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Honey locust, Gleditsia triacanthos, deciduous tree, 60’-80’ x 60’-80’, inconspicuous flowers May, June followed by purple/brown twisted seed pods. Sun, thorns present, yellow fall foliage. Zones 3 to 8.
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Autumn Joy sedum, herbaceous perennial, attracts pollinators, sun, 1 to 3 ft tall & wide. Zones 3 to 9.
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Sweet autumn clematis/virgins bower (Clematis ternifolia), deciduous vine, 15-30ft, fragrant, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9
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Hardy fuchsia, Fuchsia magellanica, tender perennial, sun to part shade, 3' - 5'. Zones 8 to 10.
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Karl Foerster feather reed grass, Calamagrostis × acutiflora 'Karl Foerster', herbaceous perennial, 3’-5’ x 2’-2.5’, flowers May to Feb, sun. Zones 5 to 9.
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Dwarf winged burning bush, Euonymus alatus 'Compactus', deciduous shrub, 9 to 10' tall and wide, sun to part shade. Zones 4-8. Click on pic for more.
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Anemone tomentosa ‘Robustissima’, pink Japanese anemone, herbaceous perennial, 4ft, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
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Chinese lantern, Physalis alkekengi var. franchetii, herbaceous perennial, 24”-34” x 24”-36”, underground runners are invasive, sun to part shade. Zones 3 to 9.
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Viburnum davidii, David viburnum, broadleaf evergreen, 2-3’ x 3-4’, white blooms April to May, sun to part shade, blue/black berries, butterflies. Zones 7 to 9
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Rockspray cotoneaster, Cotoneaster horizontalis, deciduous shrub, 2’-3’ x 6’-8’, small white flowers May to June followed by red berries. Zones 5 to 7.
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Chrysanthemum, herbaceous perennial, 1-3’ x 2’, many colours & colour combinations, full sun. Zones 5 to 9.
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Samarai toad lily, Tricyrtis formosana 'Samarai', herbaceous perennial, zone 4-9, 2 to 4' tall x 3', shade to part shade.
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Glossy abelia, Abelia x grandiflora, broad leaf evergreen shrub, 4 - 6’ x 5’, sun to part shade. Zones 6 to 9.
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Firethorn, Pyracantha coccinea, deciduous shrubby vine, 6’ – 18’ tall & wide, May white flowers, sun to part shade, bears large thorns. Zones 6 to 9.
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Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, broadleaf evergreen, 10’-20’ tall & wide, fragrant flowers Oct to Dec, fruit resembles strawberries. Zones 7 to 9.
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Virginia creeper, Parthenocissus quincefolia, clinging, woody deciduous vine, 30', blue berries, fall colour, sun to part shade. Zones 3 to 9.
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Sneezeweed, Helenium autumnale, herbaceous perennial, sun, 2' x 18", butterflies. Zones 4 to 9.
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Variegated winter daphne, Daphne odora 'Aureo-marginata', broadleaf evergreen, 3 - 4' x 2 - 4', part shade, fragrant. Zones 7 to 9.
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Winter protection
Protect Spanish lavender as it is only hardy from USDA zones 9 to 11.
English lavender is reliably hardy throughout Canada from zones 5 to 9.
Gone are the days when we knew what winter would bring. Here, in the Pacific Northwest, torrential rain is the norm, but after experiencing the hottest summer on record, I’m scratching my head of what is to come.
With this in mind, preparing for the worst is good idea. The worst, in my mind is mountains of wet heavy snow, prolonged below freezing temperatures and continuous freezing and thawing. Some plants will make it through such conditions, but others that are borderline hardy will not. Here’s some tips to make sure plants are cozy during the months ahead.
Tie up cedars and other conifers with string to keep their shape when under the weight of heavy snow.
Wrapping Shrubs, Small Trees:
Use old sheets, table cloths, frost blankets and/or a few layers burlap. Make sure the fabric touches the ground and all the way to the very tip of the plant.
Hate your lawn?
A Dutch clover lawn is easy care and bees love it!
If you are done with trying to grow a lush lawn, there are alternatives. Options include numerous types of clover, as well as ground covers. Learn about your many possibilities from clover to ground covers to hardscaping. For more click on Lawn Alternatives
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Fall Lawn Care
Rake leaves from the lawn onto beds. No bagging required.
Mowing: If your lawn is still green, growing and not buried under a layer of snow, some TLC will go a long way for a happier lawn. Mow when dry and frost free, which might be a bit tricky this time of year. Set the mower at 2.0 to 2.5 inches high. Keep the clippings on the lawn, but only if they are short so they don’t clump up on top of the lawn.
Raking: It’s tough to keep the lawn free of fallen leaves, but it’s necessary to prevent mold and diseases. A low-maintenance solution is to just rake them into garden beds. Or mow them in situ, bagging them at the same time. Place on garden beds for a nutritious and protective mulch. Feeding: Fertilize lawns with a winterizer fertilizer. Select one low in nitrogen and high in potash, the last number on fertilizer labels ex: 2-4-8. Liming: If the lawn is covered in moss and you didn’t apply lime in spring, do so now. Use Dolopril lime as it is gentler to the soil and is easier to apply than hydrated lime. Topdress (optional): Apply 1/4 to 1/2 inch of screened compost, worm castings, or a garden blend. Use shovels to throw or fling it across the lawn. Follow up by gently raking so it is evenly dispersed. Sow Seed: Sow seeds on sparse areas after mowing. There are many types of lawn seeds available. Select one for sun or shade, depending on the conditions. Renovating: There’s still time to renovate an existing lawn, unless the ground is frozen, covered with snow or flooded. Select lawn seeding kits that come with fertilizers, mulch and other goodies to make reseeding sparse areas easy. For more click on Lawn Reno, Seed & Sod Install New Lawns: For an instant lawn, sod is the most efficient and easiest option. To keep costs down, use sod for the front lawn and seed the back garden. Click on Lawn Reno, Seed & Sod What to Do with Fallen Leaves
Fall leaves are a nutritious and free mulch.
Mulch them! Rake them from the lawn onto the beds.
Mow them! Set your mower on the highest setting and mow them when the grass and leaves are dry. Bag them as you go then dump the shredded leaves on garden beds, add them to the compost bin or use as a winter mulch. Place them on top and around tender plants and spring flowering bulbs. Improve the Soil! Three inches of fallen leaves on top of the soil provides exceptional nutrition to all plants via the soil, while inhibiting weeds, reducing erosion and even protects the soil from the ravages of winter. Keep mulch a few inches away from the tree trunks. Compost them! If they are free of diseases and insects, place them in the compost as the carbon layer. Keep a few bags in a dry location to add on top of the green layer throughout the year. Make Leaf Mould! Use fallen leaves to make nutritious leaf mould to add to garden beds to improve soil health and fertility. Just place moist leaves in plastic bags and nature will do the rest. Store any extra leaves in paper recycle bags to top up existing mulched bed throughout the year and to add as a brown layer to compost bin. In other words - save those leaves! 
Powdery mildew is a common disease on bigleaf maples
Buggy and Diseased Leaves: If you wish to use them, you can, but don’t place them around the mother plant or any other members of the same family. For example, big leaf maple foliage covered with powdery mildew will further contaminate the mother plant, however, it’s fine to place them around other plants as long as they are not maples.
October Arrangement
October's flowers include hydrangeas, fuchsias, delphiniums and roses
The last of summer's blossom include the white flowers of Bobo hydrangeas, which have turned pink as the season ends. The red dangling flowers are hardy fuchsias. Blue delphiniums and Japanese maple leaves finish this October's arrangement. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements
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October's Plant of the month
Ash Trees
Fraxinus Species
The green foliage of this ash tree has turned yellow under October's setting sun.
'Autumn Applause' is an American (white) ash cultivar that turns brilliant colours in fall.
A city lined street of 'Autumn Applause' white ash in Vancouver.
The pinnately compound foliage of an Autumn Applause American ash.
It's difficult to miss this stunning white ash at the Hoyt Arboretum in Portland, Oregon.
'Cimmaron' is a green ash cultivar that grows to 60 feet and a 35 foot wide canopy. It is a seedless variety.
The leaves of a Leprechaun green ash. It is a dwarf cultivar reaching 20' x 20'.
A parking lot planting of white ash in Bear Creek Park in Surrey, B.C. is displaying autumn colours.
Narrow-leaf ash looks more delicate with its thinner foliage compared to other ash trees.
Autumn Applause white ash shows off its fall colours.
The immature pyramidal 'bones' of an Autumn Purple white ash.
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Common Name: ash trees
Botanical Name: Fraxinus spp. Form: upright tree with mostly round canopies Family: Oleaceae Genus: Fraxinus Species: numerous including cultivars Plant Type: deciduous tree, subtropical species are evergreen Mature Size: depends on the species Growth: 2 feet per year, but grow slower as they mature and if crowded Origin: depends on species Hardiness Zone: depends on species Foliage: opposite green leaves are pinnately compound Flowers: some are dioecious (male and female flowers are on separate plants) Fruit: samaras, keys, (seeds have wings) Stems: flattened at tip Exposure: full sun Soil: well-drained organic rich soil, but is soil tolerant Uses: shade tree, street tree, birds Propagation: seeds, cuttings Pruning: late winter, but often it is not necessary Problems: emerald ash borer is a serious pest that will kill the tree in 3 to 5 years, ash borers, scale, anthracnose Ash trees (not to be confused with mountain ash (Sorbus), are coveted for their majestic beauty, brilliant autumn colours and for being effective shade trees. Their popularity is waning however, due to their arch nemeses, the emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis). It is a killer - if left untreated. Because of this destructive pest, many communities warn against planting ash trees. However, there are solutions to this pest. Tree service experts use an approved insecticide, imidacloprid as a soil drench or inject it into healthy trees. In British Columbia, this insect is not a serious threat, unlike the U.K. and Europe. The green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) and the narrow-leaf ash (F. angustifolia) have shown some borer resistance. White Ash: Fraxinus americana, native to Eastern North America, USDA Zones 3 to 9, 60’ – 80’ tall and wide. It is one of the largest ashes. Prefers moist, rich well-drained loams but tolerant to slightly alkaline soils. Moderate tolerance to drought. Locate away from strong winds as their branches are brittle. Immature trees are pyramidal and mature to a rounded crown. Purplish non-showy flowers in April to May. Clusters of drooping seeds up to 2 inches long have wings (samaras, keys) on female trees. Leaves are pinnate compound with 7 oval or oblong leaflets 3-5” long. Foliage is dark green above and whitish green on the undersides. In autumn, leaves turn yellow and purple. Diamond shaped ridges appear on the grey mature trunks. White ash is used for lumber, furniture and sports equipment including the Louisville Slugger baseball bats. European Ash: Fraxinus excelsior, native to Europe and western Asia, USDA Zones 5 to 7, 50 to 60’ x 40 to 50’. Prefers well-drained rich loam in full sun. Prefers cool summers and dislikes hot and dry climates. An oval crown with 8 to 14 inch long pinnately compound leaves with 7 to 13 leaflets. Leaflet margins are elliptical and coarsely serrated. Yellow autumnal colour. No significant flowers. Bark is smooth and grey on immature trees then becomes deeply ridged as trees mature. Black buds are a distinguishing feature. Green Ash: Fraxinus pennsylvanica, native to North America, USDA 3 to 9, 50-70’ x 35-50’. Prefers well-drained, organic rich moist soils in full sun. Immature trees are pyramidal and mature to roundish crown. Similar to white ash but the leaves are serrated at the ends, and are green underneath and petioles (leaf stems) are winged. Leaves turn bright yellow in autumn. Flowers appear after the foliage in spring. Purple flowers in spring followed by profuse clusters of weeping samaras up to 2 inches long. Seeds are viable resulting in seedlings. Bark is greyish brown that matures to diamond-shaped ridges. Wood is used for lumber, furniture and sports equipment. Green ash have shown some resistance to emerald ash borer. Narrow-leafed Ash: Fraxinus angustifolia, native to central & southern Europe, northwest Africa, southwest Asia, USDA Zones 5 to 8. Grows quickly, 80’x 30 – 50’. Prefers acidic soils. Smooth grey bark becomes deeply ridged with age. Foliage comprised of green, narrow, lance-shaped, 7 to 13 leaflets that turn yellow in autumn, pale brown buds rather than black ones. It has a slightly greater resistance to the emerald ash borer. 
Narrow-leaf ash grow to a majestic height of 80 feet.
A weeping European ash at a estate in England. It only reaches 20 feet but it's crown spreads up to 50 feet.
The immature bark of an European Ash.
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