Young, delicate Japanese maple foliage emerge through a black gate.
Garden Chores for May
Apple blossoms.
In This Issue
Fellow Gardeners May Introduction - Preparing for Heat & Drought - What to Plant & How to Plant - Soil Improvement
Lawn Care in May - May Veggie Gardening - All About Bedding Plants - Transplanting Seedlings Outside
Hardening Off - Bad Bugs - Weeding - Roses - Staking Plants - What to Prune in May - Groundcovers
Composting - Houseplants & Tropicals - Chelsea Chop - Softwood Cuttings - May Planters
Plant of the Month: Columbines - May's Flower Arrangement
Lawn Care in May - May Veggie Gardening - All About Bedding Plants - Transplanting Seedlings Outside
Hardening Off - Bad Bugs - Weeding - Roses - Staking Plants - What to Prune in May - Groundcovers
Composting - Houseplants & Tropicals - Chelsea Chop - Softwood Cuttings - May Planters
Plant of the Month: Columbines - May's Flower Arrangement
Sophie is hidden under a floral umbrella of yellow tree peonies.
Fellow Gardeners..
They look guilty to me. Cute but guilty.
Hello Fellow Gardeners,
I was mistaken. I thought the cold weather last January killed my garlic; however, I now know that I was wrong. It wasn’t the weather at all, it was due to two cute furry little bottoms belonging to Chloe and Cocoa – our two kitties. It’s a good job they are so darned attractive. These little darlins, or should I say princesses, have been using that part of the garden as their litter box throughout the winter. It was when I went to replant new garlic in the same garden bed that I made the discovery. I hadn’t noticed before, but there were quite a few flies buzzing around. Then I saw why. There were lots of droppings, and their efforts to cover it up further compromised the garlic so most of it died. I realized there was no way I was going to plant anything there, and certainly no more garlic. Since our kitties have a perfectly good litter box, I wondered what was so appealing about a garden planted with garlic. Why would they go where the garlic is planted? Do they want to mask the scent of their droppings, or do they want to ward off other animals from going in their space? Or maybe they like the smell of garlic, or maybe the garlic sanitizes the area. Whatever the reason, I will cover it with mulch to deter them from using it. If that doesn’t work, I will secure mesh over the top of the bed. If push comes to shove - with me on the losing end, I will let them use that garden if I find they have found another part of the garden to do their business in. This is the first time any of our cats over the years have taken over part of a garden bed to use as their bathroom. I have also grown garlic before, so what gives? I think there’s a few things going on here. First off, I usually plant garlic in a single row lining the veggie beds; however, this year I planted all the garlic cloves in a 4 foot by 4 foot block. I didn’t mulch them either – another mistake. Usually I mulch everything, but I ran out. In the meantime, I have planted more garlic. This time I did what I always do. I planted them single file along inside the edge of a different bed then covered them with some old straw I garnered from another garden. So far so good. They haven’t been dug up, peed or pooped on. I did tell our kitties that the garden is not their lavatory, but they even care what I say. After all, they are the princesses of the house, and we are here just for their convenience. At least they let us pet them and cuddle them – but not too much, and only when they feel the need. It's such an honour. We are privileged to be their humbled servants, like all other cat owners around the world. Now it’s May and planting the garden is in full swing. There’s lots to do. I’m looking at May’s Garden Chores and wishing that this month had a few extra weeks added on. With that said, I’m really excited about buying more plants (yay!) and getting the gardens planted with lots of tasty veg and lovely flowers. Have a great gardening month. Cheers, Amanda 
Princess Chloe & Princess Cocoa
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Bc Fuchsia & Begonia Society
The BC Fuchsia and Begonia Society promotes fuchsias, begonias, ferns and other shade-loving plants. The society meets at 7pm, 3rd Wednesday each month at St. Timothy's Church Hall, 4550 Kitchener Street. They offer knowledgeable speakers, plant displays, plant sales, refreshments and friendship. Click on Fuchsias & Begonias to learn more.
Water Restrictions Begin
Watering restrictions begin May 1st in Metro Vancouver.
Watering trees, shrubs and flowers is allowed, but not the lawn. That's permitted only once a week. Vegetable gardens are exempt from regulations. For more details click on Metro Vancouver. |
May Garden Stars
Jack-in-the-pulpit, Arisaema triphyllym, herbaceous perennial, 1-2’ x 1-1.5’, April to May flowers, part to full shade, moist soils. Zones 4 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
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Snow Day Surprise pearlbush, Exochorda 'Snow Day Surprise', deciduous shrub, 4'x4', sun, part shade. Zones 4 to 8.
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Tree peony, Paeonia suffruticosa, deciduous woody shrub, 3-5’ x 3-4’, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
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'Candy Stripe', creeping or moss phlox, Phlox subulata, herbaceous perennial groundcover, to 6 inches tall x 2’ spread, sun, drought tolerant, butterflies. Zones 3 to 9.
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Himalayan blue poppy, Mecanopsis baileyi, short-lived herbaceous perennial, 3’ to 4’, dappled shade. Zones 5 to 7.
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'Snowmound' spirea, Spiraea nipponica 'Snowmound', deciduous shrub, 3-5’ tall & wide, flowers May to June, butterflies. Zones 4 to 8.
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Eastern redbud, Cercis canadensis, deciduous tree, 30’x30’, heart-shaped foliage, fall colour, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
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Golden Chain Tree, Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii', deciduous tree. Part to full sun, 20 ft x 15 ft. Zones 6 to 8. All parts are poisonous.
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Variegated weigela, W. ‘Florida Variegata’, deciduous shrub, 4-6 ft. tall & wide, sun, part shade, hummingbirds. Zones 4 to 8. Click on pic for more.
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Solomon's Seal, Polygonatum biflorum, herbaceous perennial, 1-3ft x 1-3ft, part shade, shade. Zones 3 to 8.
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Handkerchief or dove tree, Davidia involucrate, deciduous tree, 15’ x 10’, sun to part shade, May flowers. Zones 6 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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Perennial candytuft, Iberis sempervirens, evergreen ground cover, May flowers, 6” to 1’, sun to part shade. Zones 3-9
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Peaches & Cream honeysuckle, Lonicera, deciduous vine to 5 feet, fragrant flowers attract hummingbirds & bees from May to June, sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 9.
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Chocolate vine, Akebia quinata, semi-evergreen vine, 20–40’ x 6-9’, fragrant, finger shaped fruit, part shade. Aggressive, invasive in midwest. Zones 4 to 8
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Montana clematis, C. montana, deciduous vine, sun. Zones 4 to 8. Click on pic for more.
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Large camas, Camassia leichtlinii, summer bulb, North American native, 3-4 ft x 1 -2', sun to part shade, Zones 5 to 9.
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Oriental poppy, Papaver orientale, herbaceous perennial, 15” – 3’ x 1’ -2’, sun. Zones 3 to 8. Click on the photo for more.
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Candelabra primrose, Primula pulverulenta, herbaceous perennial, 3’x2’, part shade, moist soil, butterflies. Zones 4 to 8
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Pink flowering dogwood, Cornus florida f. rubra, deciduous tree, 15’–30’ tall & wide, sun, part shade, birds, butterflies. Zones 5 to 9.
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Wisteria, woody deciduous vine, fragrant flowers May to June, up to 25 feet, aggressive, toxic, sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 9.
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Columbine, Aquilegia vulgaris, herbaceous perennial, 18" - 3ft, sun to part shade. Zones 3 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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May Garden Chores
Click on the coloured links to be redirected.
Symptoms of drought and heat are brown curled leaf margins.
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Don't rely solely on drip irrigation.
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Set up timers, hoses and sprinklers to make watering easier.
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Prepare for Heat & Drought: They’re predicting a hotter and drier summer than the normal in British Columbia. It’s better to prepare for the worst and hope for the best. For watering tips and water saving techniques go to Drought Gardening.
Water Restrictions? Watering trees, shrubs & gardens is permitted any day, from 1 am - 9 am. Hand water any time, the same goes for drip irrigation and soaker hoses. Water vegetable gardens are also exempt from the regulations. Make life
If you haven’t set up your sprinklers on a timer, do so. If you need more hoses, sprinklers and handheld sprayers, purchase them now before they are all sold out. For more click on Watering Tips & Techniques. For more details on current water restrictions click on Metro Vancouver.
Water Restrictions? Watering trees, shrubs & gardens is permitted any day, from 1 am - 9 am. Hand water any time, the same goes for drip irrigation and soaker hoses. Water vegetable gardens are also exempt from the regulations. Make life
If you haven’t set up your sprinklers on a timer, do so. If you need more hoses, sprinklers and handheld sprayers, purchase them now before they are all sold out. For more click on Watering Tips & Techniques. For more details on current water restrictions click on Metro Vancouver.
Water lawns once a week for an hour.
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Vegetable gardens are exempt from watering restrictions.
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Even with the current water restrictions, watering gardens is allowed every day from 1 am - 9 am.
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It’s Time to Plant! Throughout Canada, during the Victoria Day long weekend (May 20 this year), gardeners don their garden gloves and get planting. When the danger of frost has passed, tender plants, such as tomatoes, peppers, begonias and petunias are safe to plant outdoors. In more temperate areas, such as southern coastal BC., planting can often begin in the beginning of May, weather permitting. Wait for nighttime temperatures to consistently be above 7 °C (45 °F) with a the soil temperature of 13°C (55 °F) warm season, tender plants outside.
In the meantime, summer is right around the corner so get trees, shrubs, vines, perennials veggies, herbs and bedding plants in the ground before it gets too hot and dry.
In the meantime, summer is right around the corner so get trees, shrubs, vines, perennials veggies, herbs and bedding plants in the ground before it gets too hot and dry.
Get trees planted as soon as possible.
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Plant bedding plants this month.
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Plant shrubs this month before it gets too hot and dry.
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Plant dahlias & other summer bulbs.
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Before Planting: Prepare seedlings, houseplants and other plants that have been grown inside before placing them outside by hardening them off. To learn how click on Hardening Off Plants
Unpotting the Potted: To remove plants from their pots, grasp the top of the pot with one hand then tip it upside down. Remove the pot with the other hand. If it doesn’t budge, keep the plant upside down and tap the pot rim on the edge of a hard surface. Carefully slide the plant from its pot then gently loosen the roots, but keep the rootball intact. If roots are too tightly bound, use a knife to cut the sides and bottom of the root ball. Plant and water immediately.
Plant Correctly: Bad planting is one of the main reasons why plants become sick and die. It's not rocket science, but there is a right way and and a wrong way. If you have a brown thumb, this maybe the reason why. For more click on Planting Know-How.
Unpotting the Potted: To remove plants from their pots, grasp the top of the pot with one hand then tip it upside down. Remove the pot with the other hand. If it doesn’t budge, keep the plant upside down and tap the pot rim on the edge of a hard surface. Carefully slide the plant from its pot then gently loosen the roots, but keep the rootball intact. If roots are too tightly bound, use a knife to cut the sides and bottom of the root ball. Plant and water immediately.
Plant Correctly: Bad planting is one of the main reasons why plants become sick and die. It's not rocket science, but there is a right way and and a wrong way. If you have a brown thumb, this maybe the reason why. For more click on Planting Know-How.
Harden off plants by introducing them gradually to the outdoors.
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Tip plants upside down and tap the pot to release the plant.
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Cut tightly bound roots before planting.
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Hand water plants after planting.
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Plants wilt because of overwatering AND underwatering.
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Shade plants that wilt in the heat of the afternoon to block the sun.
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Post Planting: Don’t go on vacation! Hand water after planting and don’t rely on drip systems or soaker hoses. After initial hand watering after planting, water well by hand every other day. Once new growth starts, reduce watering to once or twice a week depending on the weather.
Wilting? Note that plants wilt when they are too dry and when they are too wet. Use a trowel or shovel to dig down and have a look and feel.
Wilting? Note that plants wilt when they are too dry and when they are too wet. Use a trowel or shovel to dig down and have a look and feel.
Rake in soil amendments.
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Well-rotted and composted manure adds nutrients and organic matter.
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Find bagged soil amendments at hardware stores and garden centres.
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Fertilize Plants & Build Soil: Avoid applying synthetic fertilizers as they interfere with the natural processes of the soil food web. Synthetics kills earthworms, microorganisms and other soil organisms, whilst deteriorating organic matter, which is essential for healthy soil. A much better method is to mix in compost, composted manure, SeaSoil into the soil. For more on soil building click here. To learn more about feeding plants organically click here.
Mulch protects the soil from the elements.
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For convenience, buy mulch by the bag.
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Don't put fabric or plastic under mulch.
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Lower Your Maintenance: A 3 inch layer of an organic mulch laid on top of soil between plants is a game changer. This layer reduces weeding, watering, fertilizing, erosion and insulates the soil. Click here for more on how to apply mulch, its benefits and the different kinds.
Planting in Existing Mulched Gardens: When planting or adding compost where there is an existing layer of mulch, just move the mulch away to one side. Avoid mixing the mulch with the soil. Once you are finished, just move it back into place. If it’s less than 3 inches deep, top it up. To prevent plants from rotting, keep the mulch a few inches from tree trunks and avoid covering plants.
Planting in Existing Mulched Gardens: When planting or adding compost where there is an existing layer of mulch, just move the mulch away to one side. Avoid mixing the mulch with the soil. Once you are finished, just move it back into place. If it’s less than 3 inches deep, top it up. To prevent plants from rotting, keep the mulch a few inches from tree trunks and avoid covering plants.
Japanese spurge is an evergreen for shade.
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Snow-on-the-mountain (goutweed) is an invasive but pretty groundcover.
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Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) is a native plant suitable for hot, dry sites.
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Groundcovers instead of mulch: Use dense, low growing evergreen plants to cover the ground to take the place of organic mulch. Be selective though as some can be quite aggressive. For more on ground covers, click here.
Weeds: Pull weeds out by their roots; don’t let them go to seed - or at least remove their flowers so they don't set seed. After weeding, lay a 3-inch layer of mulch on top of the soil to prevent future weed growth.
Weeds: Pull weeds out by their roots; don’t let them go to seed - or at least remove their flowers so they don't set seed. After weeding, lay a 3-inch layer of mulch on top of the soil to prevent future weed growth.
Climbing roses need to be supported.
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Secure climbing roses as they can't do it themselves.
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When making cuttings, cut just below a node.
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Secure Vines: Control and secure wayward stems from clematis, wisteria, honeysuckle, climbing roses, pole beans, peas and other vines onto their supports so they don’t madly ensnare neighbouring plants.
Take Cuttings: Get free plants by duplicating your favorite plants with softwood cuttings. It's easy and fun. To learn more on the types of cuttings and when to do them, click here.
Take Cuttings: Get free plants by duplicating your favorite plants with softwood cuttings. It's easy and fun. To learn more on the types of cuttings and when to do them, click here.
Set the lawn mower to no less than 2.5 inches to prevent lawn grubs!
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Don't mow or apply fertilizer when the grass is wet.
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Select a high nitrogen fertilizer, preferably organic or slow release.
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Lawn Care for May: Feed the lawn with an organic or slow release fertilizer high in nitrogen, the first number is higher than the other two numbers ex: 8-3-2. Follow the instructions and don’t over apply. Schedule to apply it after the lawn has been mowed and preferably just before it rains. Avoid applying it on wet grass to prevent burning.
To avoid lawn grubs, don’t cut the grass too short. The longer grass prevents the adults from laying their eggs, longer roots and healthier grass. Water once a week for an hour. This keeps the grass alive so there is less chance of grubs eating it alive and weeds from invading. For more on grub control click on Lawn Grub Control. For more on lawn care click on Lawn Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Moss in Lawns
To avoid lawn grubs, don’t cut the grass too short. The longer grass prevents the adults from laying their eggs, longer roots and healthier grass. Water once a week for an hour. This keeps the grass alive so there is less chance of grubs eating it alive and weeds from invading. For more on grub control click on Lawn Grub Control. For more on lawn care click on Lawn Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Moss in Lawns
Look for grass seeds that contain a starter fertilizer.
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Keep grass seed moist for successful seed germination.
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Get sod laid asap!
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Lawn grubs love a mossy lawn.
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Lawn Repair and New Lawns: This is the last month to repair lawns before it gets too hot. Fix spare spots as soon as possible, before summer’s heat and drought make it difficult to do so. To fix bare spots, scratch in some compost, topsoil or even potting soil onto the area, then sow grass seed. Look for coated seeds with added fertilizer or add a starter food high phosphorous (middle number the highest). Keep the seeds moist until they germinate, which may mean watering numerous times per day.
If planting a new lawn, don’t delay. Sod is more expensive, but instant. It’s a good idea to sod the front lawn and seed the back. Sod is also perfect for small areas. And don’t go on vacation after repairing or laying a new lawn as they need to be watered. Note that new lawns are exempt from water restrictions, but you do have to get a permit https://vancouver.ca/home-property-development/water-exemption-permits.aspx
If planting a new lawn, don’t delay. Sod is more expensive, but instant. It’s a good idea to sod the front lawn and seed the back. Sod is also perfect for small areas. And don’t go on vacation after repairing or laying a new lawn as they need to be watered. Note that new lawns are exempt from water restrictions, but you do have to get a permit https://vancouver.ca/home-property-development/water-exemption-permits.aspx
A patio surrounded by plants is low maintenance.
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A lawn is replaced with a garden meadow.
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Lush gardens, not lawns, line this path.
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An inviting bench takes the place of a grub eaten lawn.
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Bad, Bad Lawns
If you’ve given up on your lawn there’s no need to cry as there are alternatives. Use sheet mulching to convert it into a garden without ripping out the lawn. Plant ground covers, turn it into a meadow, or build raised beds and grow veggies. Consider patios, seating areas and other hardscaping ideas. For more click on Lawn Alternatives.
If you’ve given up on your lawn there’s no need to cry as there are alternatives. Use sheet mulching to convert it into a garden without ripping out the lawn. Plant ground covers, turn it into a meadow, or build raised beds and grow veggies. Consider patios, seating areas and other hardscaping ideas. For more click on Lawn Alternatives.
Locate veggie gardens in full sun, near the kitchen and a faucet.
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Water plants and the garden bed the day before planting.
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No room for a garden? Grow food in planters.
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It's All About the Veggies! It’s time to get those veggies in the ground. Here's a few tips to help you out.
Sunlight: Position your garden so it receives at least 6 hours of direct sun per day. If light is inadequate cabbage may not form tight heads, radishes and beets will be small. Fruiting plants like tomatoes will have plentiful foliage, but few if any fruit. Ripening will be delayed and plants are prone to diseases. Partial light: Although there are no veggies that grow in total darkness, there are some that tolerate 3 to 6 hours/day: chard, kale, arugula, lettuce.
Location: For your convenience, locate your vegetable patch close to an outdoor faucet and near the kitchen.
Soil: Mix in at least a couple of inches of compost, composted manure, SeaSoil and other soil amendments to add nutrition and organic matter.
Add Lime: Mix in Dolopril lime to the soil where cabbage, broccoli and other cruciferous will be planted, but don’t lime where potatoes will be grown. Water and wait a few days before planting to allow the soil to settle. Select a cloudy day to plant if your schedule allows. Water the plants the day prior to planting and the garden, especially if the soil is dry. When planting add bonemeal according to the directions.
Sunlight: Position your garden so it receives at least 6 hours of direct sun per day. If light is inadequate cabbage may not form tight heads, radishes and beets will be small. Fruiting plants like tomatoes will have plentiful foliage, but few if any fruit. Ripening will be delayed and plants are prone to diseases. Partial light: Although there are no veggies that grow in total darkness, there are some that tolerate 3 to 6 hours/day: chard, kale, arugula, lettuce.
Location: For your convenience, locate your vegetable patch close to an outdoor faucet and near the kitchen.
Soil: Mix in at least a couple of inches of compost, composted manure, SeaSoil and other soil amendments to add nutrition and organic matter.
Add Lime: Mix in Dolopril lime to the soil where cabbage, broccoli and other cruciferous will be planted, but don’t lime where potatoes will be grown. Water and wait a few days before planting to allow the soil to settle. Select a cloudy day to plant if your schedule allows. Water the plants the day prior to planting and the garden, especially if the soil is dry. When planting add bonemeal according to the directions.
Place tall plants, like these scarlet runner beans, on the north side of the bed.
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Raised beds makes veggie gardening easier.
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Four foot wide beds and paths lower maintenance.
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Opt for Raised beds: It’s easier to grow veggies in raised beds They are more efficient to maintain, easier on the back, the soil warms faster in the spring and are simpler to organize.
Size of Beds & Paths: Four foot wide beds make it possible to reach into the garden from all sides. Add a 2 foot wide mulched paths on larger beds. Line the paths with landscape fabric then add at least a couple of inches of cedar wood chips or bark nuggets. Don’t put fabric on garden beds, just on paths.
Locating Plants: Place tall plants and vining veggies, such as trellised grown cucumbers, on the north side. This prevents the taller plants from shading their smaller neighbours.
Size of Beds & Paths: Four foot wide beds make it possible to reach into the garden from all sides. Add a 2 foot wide mulched paths on larger beds. Line the paths with landscape fabric then add at least a couple of inches of cedar wood chips or bark nuggets. Don’t put fabric on garden beds, just on paths.
Locating Plants: Place tall plants and vining veggies, such as trellised grown cucumbers, on the north side. This prevents the taller plants from shading their smaller neighbours.
Companion planting is an efficient use of space.
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Lettuce and carrots make a good team.
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Keep a record of where crops are planted for crop rotation.
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Rotate Crops: To avoid diseases, insects and malnutrition, don’t plant the same crop in the same place as last year or the year before.
Companion planting: Mixing different crops together improves their taste, reduces diseases, insects, attracts beneficial insects, suppresses weeds and takes advantage of all available space above ground and below ground. Root crops partner well with leafy crops (lettuce + onions) and tomatoes grow well with basil. To repel insects, consider a band of marigolds. There’s lots to learn about companion planting. Click here for more info.
Succession Planting: Once a short term crop has been harvested such as radish, lettuce and spinach, plant broccoli, cabbage, kale, bush beans and bush cucumbers. For continuous harvests, don't sow all the seeds in the seed packet at the same time, instead sow 2 weeks apart. For more on companion planting, crop rotation and succession planting click here.
Companion planting: Mixing different crops together improves their taste, reduces diseases, insects, attracts beneficial insects, suppresses weeds and takes advantage of all available space above ground and below ground. Root crops partner well with leafy crops (lettuce + onions) and tomatoes grow well with basil. To repel insects, consider a band of marigolds. There’s lots to learn about companion planting. Click here for more info.
Succession Planting: Once a short term crop has been harvested such as radish, lettuce and spinach, plant broccoli, cabbage, kale, bush beans and bush cucumbers. For continuous harvests, don't sow all the seeds in the seed packet at the same time, instead sow 2 weeks apart. For more on companion planting, crop rotation and succession planting click here.
Improve soil with compost.
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Use manure sparingly.
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Plant tomatoes after the danger of frost has past.
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Planting Veggies: Wait for the danger of frost has passed to plant tomatoes, peppers, aubergines (eggplants), basil and other tender veg. Avoid planting in the rain as it compacts the soil and spreads diseases. Remove all weeds and debris then rake in a couple of inches of compost, SeaSoil or another organic soil amendment. If using manure, it must be aged, not smelly nor steamy. Mix in no more than a couple of inches. There’s no need to till the garden, just rake or dig it in a few inches.
Plant potatoes in trenches.
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Grow vining veggies & fruit up trellises.
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Make an easy and inexpensive trellis with dollar store items. Click on pic for more.
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Climbing & Vining veggies: To avoid slugs eating your crops, to prevent rotting and to encourage ripening, grow cucumbers, melons, peas, pole beans and other vining veggies on a trellis. Use pantihose to support heavy fruit. To learn how to make an inexpensive trellis click here.
Potatoes: Plant seed potatoes in trenches and cover them with more soil as they grow to increase yields and prevents green spuds. For more click here.
Potatoes: Plant seed potatoes in trenches and cover them with more soil as they grow to increase yields and prevents green spuds. For more click here.
Remove runners from strawberries for more berries.
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Remove rhubarb flowers.
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Harvest asparagus 3 years after planting.
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Strawberries: Cut off runners so plants will dedicate their energy to produce strawberries. Mulch with straw or wood chips. Remove the flowers of newly planted strawberries so they will establish themselves faster.
Rhubarb: Wait for three years to harvest stems after planting. Remove flowers as soon as they appear in spring. When harvesting pull the stalks off the plant, don’t cut them. The leaves contain toxins so don’t eat or compost them. Feed with a generous layer of compost mixed into the soil yearly.
Asparagus: Wait for three years after planting to harvest young spears. Mix in compost annually at the base of each plant every spring.
Rhubarb: Wait for three years to harvest stems after planting. Remove flowers as soon as they appear in spring. When harvesting pull the stalks off the plant, don’t cut them. The leaves contain toxins so don’t eat or compost them. Feed with a generous layer of compost mixed into the soil yearly.
Asparagus: Wait for three years after planting to harvest young spears. Mix in compost annually at the base of each plant every spring.
Homegrown tomatoes are delicious.
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Bury tomato stems.
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Yummy!
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Tomato Love
Planting Tomatoes: Plant them in a different garden bed than the last three years to reduce diseases, insects and nutrient deficiencies. Allow 20 to 24 inches between plants. To plant a tomato plant, strip the lower leaves and bury the bare stem. For more information on tomatoes here are few links that you might be interesting in. Tomato Tips - The Life of Tomato Seedlings to Plants - Taming Tomatoes - Speeding up Tomato Harvest - Tomato Troubles - Saving Tomato Seeds
Planting Tomatoes: Plant them in a different garden bed than the last three years to reduce diseases, insects and nutrient deficiencies. Allow 20 to 24 inches between plants. To plant a tomato plant, strip the lower leaves and bury the bare stem. For more information on tomatoes here are few links that you might be interesting in. Tomato Tips - The Life of Tomato Seedlings to Plants - Taming Tomatoes - Speeding up Tomato Harvest - Tomato Troubles - Saving Tomato Seeds
Harden off seedlings before planting outside.
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Sow bush and pole beans.
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Sow nasturtiums outside.
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Prep Indoor Seedlings for Outside
To prepare your tender babies that were grown indoors to live outdoors, wait until they have at least three sets of leaves and are of manageable size. Acclimatize them to the outdoors by gradually introducing them to the variable conditions. To learn about this process, click on Hardening Off Plants.
Sow Seeds Outside: Prepare the soil and plant peas, corn, squashes, cucumbers, pumpkins, gourds, melons, beets, carrots, radishes, beans, nasturtiums, sunflowers, sweet peas, nigella, calendula and poppies. Keep soil moist for optimum seed germination. Read the back of seed packets for when to sow, how deep and suitable conditions. Protect plants from slugs and snails, click here for more info.
Sow Flower Seeds Outside: Check seed packages for seeds suitable to sow outdoors such as
For a regional planting charts click on West Coast Seeds. For more on sowing seeds select Growing Seeds Indoors and Growing Seeds Outdoors
To prepare your tender babies that were grown indoors to live outdoors, wait until they have at least three sets of leaves and are of manageable size. Acclimatize them to the outdoors by gradually introducing them to the variable conditions. To learn about this process, click on Hardening Off Plants.
Sow Seeds Outside: Prepare the soil and plant peas, corn, squashes, cucumbers, pumpkins, gourds, melons, beets, carrots, radishes, beans, nasturtiums, sunflowers, sweet peas, nigella, calendula and poppies. Keep soil moist for optimum seed germination. Read the back of seed packets for when to sow, how deep and suitable conditions. Protect plants from slugs and snails, click here for more info.
Sow Flower Seeds Outside: Check seed packages for seeds suitable to sow outdoors such as
For a regional planting charts click on West Coast Seeds. For more on sowing seeds select Growing Seeds Indoors and Growing Seeds Outdoors
Avoid pruning when plants are wet.
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Don't prune mock oranges now as they are just about to flower.
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It's too late to cut back hydrangeas.
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What to Prune in May
The biggest mistake people make when pruning is cutting too much off, but you probably know that already. Take a step back occasionally to ensure you stay in control of the situation. Don’t prune wet plants or when it is raining as it spreads diseases and it’s unsafe as tools and plants become slippery.
Not all plants need pruning. It does not initiate flowering, in fact, many plants don’t flower because they are pruned at the wrong time. Know that plants flower all by themselves without our help.
Prune plants immediately after flowering, but before you do so, check the branches for bird nests. Help plants bounce back by watering and fertilizing them with kelp, fish fertilizer or another organic high nitrogen plant food. How to Prune - Pruning Tools - Prune Your Own Garden Registration
The biggest mistake people make when pruning is cutting too much off, but you probably know that already. Take a step back occasionally to ensure you stay in control of the situation. Don’t prune wet plants or when it is raining as it spreads diseases and it’s unsafe as tools and plants become slippery.
Not all plants need pruning. It does not initiate flowering, in fact, many plants don’t flower because they are pruned at the wrong time. Know that plants flower all by themselves without our help.
Prune plants immediately after flowering, but before you do so, check the branches for bird nests. Help plants bounce back by watering and fertilizing them with kelp, fish fertilizer or another organic high nitrogen plant food. How to Prune - Pruning Tools - Prune Your Own Garden Registration
Prevent perennials, like this phlox, from flopping over.
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Cut back stems by half in late May.
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Plants will become bushier and more compact.
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The end result is a sturdy, stocky and floriferous phlox.
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Chelsea Chop
In late May, numerous perennials benefit from a wee haircut to make growth more compact and to create more flowers. Candidates include those tall plants that fall over with their tall stems that are weighed down with their blossoms. Just pinch or cut off an inch from the top of each stem right above a leaf and soon new two stems will replace the one. With Method 1, all stems are cut back by ½ to 1/3rd. This creates more stems on shorter plants that creates more flowers. To extend flowering use Method 2. Cut back only half of the stems; the other half remains uncut. Pinch or cut back asters, veronicas, autumn joy sedums, campanulas, yarrow, phlox, bellflower, coneflowers, penstemon, sneezeweed, goldenrod and shasta daisies. Don’t do the 'chop' plants when they are wilting.
In late May, numerous perennials benefit from a wee haircut to make growth more compact and to create more flowers. Candidates include those tall plants that fall over with their tall stems that are weighed down with their blossoms. Just pinch or cut off an inch from the top of each stem right above a leaf and soon new two stems will replace the one. With Method 1, all stems are cut back by ½ to 1/3rd. This creates more stems on shorter plants that creates more flowers. To extend flowering use Method 2. Cut back only half of the stems; the other half remains uncut. Pinch or cut back asters, veronicas, autumn joy sedums, campanulas, yarrow, phlox, bellflower, coneflowers, penstemon, sneezeweed, goldenrod and shasta daisies. Don’t do the 'chop' plants when they are wilting.
If there are aphids, ladybugs aren't too far behind.
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Cloches keep adults from laying their eggs on crops.
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Floating row covers just lay atop the crops and secured to the ground.
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Knee-hi panty-hose protects an artichoke from aphids.
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Getting Buggy With it! There’s no need to get your knickers in a twist when you see bugs in the garden, even when they are nibbling away. It’s part of nature and surely you must know that killing plant eating bugs also kills the insects that kills the bad bugs. That's all well and good until crops are ruined by some insidious little insect. Hand pick if not squeamish. Go out at night for those that hide in the day and feed at night. Protect broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and leafy crops from cabbage butterfly, leaf miner, carrot rust fly and other insect pests with cloches and floating row covers.
Toothpicks and diatomaceous earth protect a broccoli seedling.
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Protect seedlings with newspaper collars.
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Catch wireworms with potatoes.
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Use copper mesh to deter slugs & snails. Click on the pic for more.
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Cutworms: Greyish-brown caterpillars sever the stems of seedlings at their base. Place toothpicks around seedling stems or sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the plant. When planting, wrap stems with strips of newspaper. Click here for a video. Pluck them off plants at night when they emerge and drop them into soapy water..
Bug Traps: Place pheromone traps in apple trees to decrease codling moth populations.
Caterpillars, cutworms: Use the product Bacillus thuringiensis. It's a bacteria that only kills caterpillars. Avoid using near butterfly gardens.
Wireworms: Collect these orange shiny worms that eat plant roots with pieces of raw potato cut into quarters. Pierce each piece with a stick through the middle and bury an inch deep so the stick stands upright. Use the stick to pull the pieces of potato out of the ground after a day or two. Discard the wireworms in soapy water.
Bug Traps: Place pheromone traps in apple trees to decrease codling moth populations.
Caterpillars, cutworms: Use the product Bacillus thuringiensis. It's a bacteria that only kills caterpillars. Avoid using near butterfly gardens.
Wireworms: Collect these orange shiny worms that eat plant roots with pieces of raw potato cut into quarters. Pierce each piece with a stick through the middle and bury an inch deep so the stick stands upright. Use the stick to pull the pieces of potato out of the ground after a day or two. Discard the wireworms in soapy water.
Select bedding plants that are still in bud.
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This petunias are past their prime.
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Remove dead flowers from annuals.
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'Tis the Season for Bedding Plants/Annuals
Impatiens, petunias, coleus and begonias are a few of common annuals, which are also called bedding plants. They grow from seed, produce leaves, stems, flowers and seeds all in one growing season. Due to their short life span, they grow quickly and flower profusely as they only have one shot at procreating. When purchasing bedding plants, select ones that are just coming into bud and avoid any in full flower or have finished flowering.
Extend their life:
Since annuals die once they have produced seeds, remove their spent flowers as soon as possible. This also keeps plant compact and bushy.
Impatiens, petunias, coleus and begonias are a few of common annuals, which are also called bedding plants. They grow from seed, produce leaves, stems, flowers and seeds all in one growing season. Due to their short life span, they grow quickly and flower profusely as they only have one shot at procreating. When purchasing bedding plants, select ones that are just coming into bud and avoid any in full flower or have finished flowering.
Extend their life:
Since annuals die once they have produced seeds, remove their spent flowers as soon as possible. This also keeps plant compact and bushy.
Save your money and buy cell packs rather than individual pots.
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Four inch potted marigolds are not a bargain.
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Read plant labels for plant care and other details.
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Two-inch starter plants are a nice compromise for size and price.
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Save your money: Since you need more than a few bedding plants for a good display, purchase them in cell packs, not individual pots. You can buy 6 in a cell pack for less than one in a 4 inch pot; such a bargain! Read and keep plant labels for future reference.
Select the right ones for the conditions: For areas where it will receive morning sun only, select plants for partial shade. Gardens that receive sun a few hours in the afternoon qualify for partial shade. Areas that receive 6 hours of direct sun any time of day are full sun gardens. Where there is dappled light under trees, select plants for partial shade.
Select the right ones for the conditions: For areas where it will receive morning sun only, select plants for partial shade. Gardens that receive sun a few hours in the afternoon qualify for partial shade. Areas that receive 6 hours of direct sun any time of day are full sun gardens. Where there is dappled light under trees, select plants for partial shade.
Nigella, Love-in-a-Mist look better when planted en masse.
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A fiery combination of red and orange celosia.
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Dusty miller adds contrast and texture to impatiens.
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Lay out plants in their pots on the ground before planting.
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Designing with Bedding Plants
If you want drama, go simple with a mass planting of the same plant in the same colour. Three rows of purple petunias looks better than a single row. Plant in groups of odd numbers to make the most of a few plants. Combine no more than 3 colours for simple elegance. Add plants with white flowers between colours that clash, to brighten shady areas, and as an accent to bring attention to other plants and areas. Use white, silver & grey repeatedly to add rhythm and movement within the garden. Before planting, place the potted plants on the ground where you want to place them. Plant when you are happy with your design.
If you want drama, go simple with a mass planting of the same plant in the same colour. Three rows of purple petunias looks better than a single row. Plant in groups of odd numbers to make the most of a few plants. Combine no more than 3 colours for simple elegance. Add plants with white flowers between colours that clash, to brighten shady areas, and as an accent to bring attention to other plants and areas. Use white, silver & grey repeatedly to add rhythm and movement within the garden. Before planting, place the potted plants on the ground where you want to place them. Plant when you are happy with your design.
Promote healthy roses with giving them food, water & sun. Pictured Goldener Olymp climbing rose.
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Easy Does It is a floribunda rose that is easy to grow!
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It sets roses back if they are cut back after they have donned all their foliage.
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Roses: They are gearing up and getting ready to flower in June, so give them what they need to put on a good show. Only prune off dead canes, dying stems and spindly growth. Don’t cut them back once they have grown foliage, as this sets them back big time. Feed roses with a few inches of compost or organic fertilizer mixed into the soil. Don’t allow soil to dry out as this will impede their flowering potential. For more click on Rose Pruning.
If you’ve sworn off roses because they are high maintenance, think again. Rose breeders have developed many gorgeous easy care roses. Click here for a list of Easy Roses. Here's more on roses: Roses 101 - Types of Roses - Climbing Roses - Portland's Rose Test Garden - Pruning Roses - Rose Insects & Diseases
If you’ve sworn off roses because they are high maintenance, think again. Rose breeders have developed many gorgeous easy care roses. Click here for a list of Easy Roses. Here's more on roses: Roses 101 - Types of Roses - Climbing Roses - Portland's Rose Test Garden - Pruning Roses - Rose Insects & Diseases
My peonies fell prey to my inadequate staking. Argh!
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Just as a safety precaution, place a ping pong ball on top of stakes.
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Gladiolus often need staking.
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Stake & Cage: Place cages, stakes and string, bamboo, trellises and other supports on delphiniums, phlox, cone flowers, Michaelmas daisies, peonies and other tall and top-heavy plants.
Deadhead Snow-in-Summer, Cerastium tomentosum once flowers fade to prevent re-seeding & promote more flowers.
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Deadhead basket of gold alyssum (Aurinia saxatilis) & perennials candytuft (Iberis sempervirens).
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Got compost ready from last year? Now it's time to spread it around.
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Groundcovers: Cut off the dead flowers from aubretia, yellow alyssum (Alyssum saxatile), perennial candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum) and winter heathers (Erica carnea) etc. This keeps plants compact and many will reflower. To deadhead them, just grab the plant by the ends where the dead flowers are cut them off. Click on Groundcovers for more.
Compost: Activate your compost if you haven’t already done so. First turn existing compost, add water if dry, add a green layer (veggie scraps etc.) then a brown layer (torn newspapers or dry leaves), then add more water unless the pile is already soggy. Not composting yet? Compost issues? Learn how here.
Compost: Activate your compost if you haven’t already done so. First turn existing compost, add water if dry, add a green layer (veggie scraps etc.) then a brown layer (torn newspapers or dry leaves), then add more water unless the pile is already soggy. Not composting yet? Compost issues? Learn how here.
Repot pot-bound houseplants.
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Harden off anthuriums before placing outside.
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Bougainvilleas enjoy spending the summer outside.
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Houseplants & Tropicals
Potted plants that need to be watered daily, one that are top-heavy and keep falling over, yellow foliage, weak growth and ones with roots coming out of the pots need to be repotted into bigger pots. Select a pot one or two inches larger than the existing one. Gently loosen roots before planting then firm soil around the roots and water gently. Place in a bright location out of direct sunlight until it revives. For plants that don’t need to be repotted, just mix in some compost or slow release fertilizer on top of the soil. A fork is just the right size to scratch it in. Once plants have recovered, harden them off then give them a vacation outside (except for African violets and other hairy leaved plants).
Potted plants that need to be watered daily, one that are top-heavy and keep falling over, yellow foliage, weak growth and ones with roots coming out of the pots need to be repotted into bigger pots. Select a pot one or two inches larger than the existing one. Gently loosen roots before planting then firm soil around the roots and water gently. Place in a bright location out of direct sunlight until it revives. For plants that don’t need to be repotted, just mix in some compost or slow release fertilizer on top of the soil. A fork is just the right size to scratch it in. Once plants have recovered, harden them off then give them a vacation outside (except for African violets and other hairy leaved plants).
Snap off potential seed heads from tulips.
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Plant bulbs in trays in fall for easy spring removal.
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For convenience, plant bulbs in pots instead of the ground.
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Spring Bulbs
Remove spent flowers from tulips and daffodils so they don't go to seed.
Remove spent flowers from tulips and daffodils so they don't go to seed.
- Deadhead: Remove spent flowers from tulips and daffodils to prevent seed production and to encourage larger blooms next spring. Fertilize: Feed the bulbs with a high nitrogen fertilizer (first number highest) after they have finished flowering. This provides food to encourage next year's blossoms. Keep green leaves on until they turn yellow, then cut them back. Don't remove the leaves when they are green as they provide the bulb with food for next year.
- Can't Wait? If you need the space taken up by springs bulbs and can't wait for them to yellow, dig them up with a shovel. Do this very carefully so the stems don't break from the bulbs. It's tricky, but it can be done. Once the bulbs are dug up with their stems intact, plant them in a plant pot, firming soil around them, water and place in a protected and bright location away from full sun.
Design containers with a thriller, fillers & spillers.
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Add annuals to perennial plantings, like this lovely rose.
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Group plants that like the same conditions together.
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Planters: It’s easy and fun to design your own planter. make your own seasonal planters with plants you’ve grown yourself or buy starter plants. Use containers that have drainage holes and add potting soil. Add drainage trays under plant pots to act as a water reservoir to reduce watering, and to protect decks and patios. Group plants that like the same conditions together. Read plant labels for growing condition preferences: sun, shade, moist soil, dry soil etc.
Combine shrubs, perennials, annuals, fruit and veggies together. Strawberries look adorable when dangling from the edge of a planter with a tall ornamental grass in the centre. Experiment and have fun with different plant combos and feel free to add ornaments .
For an effective design use the 'thriller, filler and spiller' method. Plant a tall plant, 'the thriller', in the middle or the back. Surround the filler with smaller, bushier plants. Around the rim of the pot, plant 'spillers' so they will trail over the pot rim.
Water well and place newly planted planters in a shady protected location for a few days for them to recover, then place them in their permanent location.
Containers with existing plants: Remove an inch or two of soil from the top of the pot and replace with some compost or SeaSoil. Repot ones that are potbound into a larger planter. Add petunias and other annuals to add some flowers and colour.
For more on containers click here.
Combine shrubs, perennials, annuals, fruit and veggies together. Strawberries look adorable when dangling from the edge of a planter with a tall ornamental grass in the centre. Experiment and have fun with different plant combos and feel free to add ornaments .
For an effective design use the 'thriller, filler and spiller' method. Plant a tall plant, 'the thriller', in the middle or the back. Surround the filler with smaller, bushier plants. Around the rim of the pot, plant 'spillers' so they will trail over the pot rim.
Water well and place newly planted planters in a shady protected location for a few days for them to recover, then place them in their permanent location.
Containers with existing plants: Remove an inch or two of soil from the top of the pot and replace with some compost or SeaSoil. Repot ones that are potbound into a larger planter. Add petunias and other annuals to add some flowers and colour.
For more on containers click here.
Alison's bearded iris.
May Arrangement
May 2024
Rhododendrons, azaleas, Star of Bethlehem, clematis and Arabis make this pink and white arrangement. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements
Plant of the month
Columbine, Granny's Bonnet
Their nodding flower heads are aptly referred to as 'granny's bonnet'.
A Nora Barlow columbine cultivar.
A Nora Barlow columbine cultivar.
A bee visits a columbine flower.
A columbine emerges in spring.
A Nora Barlow columbine cultivar.
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Common Name: columbine, granny’s bonnet
Botanical Name: Aquilegia vulgaris Form: mounded upright Family: Ranunculaceae Genus: Aquilegia Species: vulgaris Plant Type: herbaceous perennial Mature Size: 1.5’ - 3’ x 1’ – 2’ Growth: fast Origin: Europe Hardiness Zone: 3 to 8 Foliage: green with 3 lobed margins arise from a basal crown, die back in summer Flowers: showy, April to May, blues, white, pinks, reds, violet and combinations Fruit: follicles with many shiny black seed within Exposure: sun to partial shade Soil: tolerant of all soils, but prefers well-drained, organically rich Uses: wildflower, cottage, mixed borders, rock gardens Attracts: hummingbirds Invasive Tendencies: they self-seed Tolerates: deer & rabbits Propagation: seeds Pruning: remove spent flowers to encourage more flowers and to prevent reseeding Problems: leaf minor Comments: Common Name: columbine, granny’s bonnet Botanical Name: Aquilegia vulgaris Form: mounded upright Family: Ranunculaceae Genus: Aquilegia Species: vulgaris Plant Type: herbaceous perennial Mature Size: 1.5’ - 3’ x 1’ – 2’ Growth: fast Origin: Europe Hardiness Zone: 3 to 8 Foliage: green with 3 lobed margins arise from a basal crown, die back in summer Flowers: showy, April to May, blues, white, pinks, reds, violet and combinations Fruit: follicles with many shiny black seed within Exposure: sun to partial shade Soil: tolerant of all soils, but prefers well-drained, organically rich Uses: wildflower, cottage, mixed borders, rock gardens Attracts: hummingbirds Invasive Tendencies: they self-seed Tolerates: deer & rabbits Propagation: seeds Pruning: remove spent flowers to encourage more flowers and to prevent reseeding Problems: leaf minor Comments: Columbines are known for their unusual and stunning flowers that appear in April and May. These easy to grow perennials self-sow but they are not considered weedy, besides their stunning nodding blossoms are coveted and favoured by many gardeners. Columbine’s flared tubular flowers have a distinctive short, hooked spurs at the back of the flowers. Although this is a common trait, there are some varieties that lack the spurs. Flowers stalks arise from a basal mound surrounded by attractive scalloped foliage. Once the blooms have faded, remove the flower stems to encourage more blossoms. Deadheading also prevents reseeding unless you want to save the seeds and you don’t mind if they pop up elsewhere in the garden. Note that subsequent plants produced from those seeds will not be identical to the parent plant. Variations of the parents result in a vast array of all types of colour combinations and flowers, that never disappoint. Their pretty somewhat lacey foliage declines after flowering ceases. It usually dies back during the heat of the summer. Cut back plants once their foliage turns yellow. Although columbines will even tolerate clay soils, the grow best in moist, rich soil covered in a 3-inch layer of mulch. 
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Collect seeds when seed heads are brown and dry.
Seeds are plentiful and viable.
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BC native, red columbine, Aquilegia formosa.
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THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
Click on the links below to be redirected.
for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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