Glory-of-the-snow, Chionodoxa luciliae, a spring flowering bulb that blossoms in March and April.
March Garden Chores
Seedlings: Damping Off Disease
Lawns: Seeding, Sowing, Renovating - Lawn Grub Control
Protecting Outdoor Seeds - Tender Bulbs - Plant Some Flowers
Planting Trees & Shrubs -Ball & Burlap vs Container Grown Plants - March Pruning
Aphids - Spring Lawn Care - Sowing Some Seeds - Edibles to Plant in March
March Introduction - March Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog
March Garden Chores - March Garden Stars - Plant Police - Winter Kill
March Arrangement - Need Help? - For the Tropical Gardener - Plant of the Month: Star Magnolia
Lawns: Seeding, Sowing, Renovating - Lawn Grub Control
Protecting Outdoor Seeds - Tender Bulbs - Plant Some Flowers
Planting Trees & Shrubs -Ball & Burlap vs Container Grown Plants - March Pruning
Aphids - Spring Lawn Care - Sowing Some Seeds - Edibles to Plant in March
March Introduction - March Plant Combo - Amanda's Garden Blog
March Garden Chores - March Garden Stars - Plant Police - Winter Kill
March Arrangement - Need Help? - For the Tropical Gardener - Plant of the Month: Star Magnolia
An ornamental Japanese flowering cherry.
March Intro
This is the best shot I got of this robin, well I thought it was a robin, but alas I have been corrected as apparently it is a Spotted Towhee.
Hello Fellow Gardeners,
The arrival of spring is always accompanied with beautiful birdsong, especially those tweeted by robins. This year there seems to be an abundance of robins on the south coastal British Columbia. However, they seem rather shy or maybe it’s just me. If you are not a bird fancier and don’t want them in your garden, just let them know I’m coming over with my camera. They will scarper off before you know it. It is a rare talent that has been bestowed upon me; call it an innate gift if you will. All I have to do is think about taking a picture of a bird, and it will fly off as though it’s an escaped criminal on the run. It’s not as though there are only a few birds that grace our garden or our many birdfeeders, alas, the air is full of their birdsong as they flit from plant to plant from tree to tree. Our deck has numerous feeders that hang from our eaves, including suet as well as nectar for the hummingbirds. It’s a popular bird hangout despite the large picture window that overlooks this seedy diner. It offers us a bird’s eye view of all the action. But oh, how they mock me! They perch on the railing and mingle on the bird feeders and cheekily they preen and pose, until I think ‘camera’, then off they go. I’m beginning to think they can read my mind. Maybe all birds can, as no matter where I go, as soon as I think “ooooh, a bird, I must take its picture”, off it flies. Whatever the reason, it’s quite annoying. Thank goodness for digital images as it would cost a fortune if I was using film. If I want to get some decent pictures, I’m going to have to get sneaky. I was thinking camouflage - a few branches in my hair and some attached to my jacket. But what if they think I am a real tree? I could end up fighting them off like Tippi Hedren in Hitchcock’s movie ‘The Birds’! Oh my! The other solution is to sit outside and be very still, and try and blend in to the background. But all of this takes time, time I don’t have to waste as spring is here. There’s lots to get done from sowing seeds, tending seedlings, planting, organising, preparing and getting my fingernails and knees dirty. No complaints though as spring is my favourite time of year. It’s not just because there’s so many stunningly beautiful flowers, it’s the excitement of what’s to come and the magic of spring. So here’s a toast to spring – yay! Enjoy and have fun in your garden. Cheers, Amanda 
March cherry blossoms steal the show at Rotary Park in Ladner, B.C.
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Amanda's Garden Blog & Features
It's time to sow some seeds.
Check out my blog on my gardening experiments, trials. tribulations and excursions by clicking here. Here are some timely and relevant blogs you might be interested in at this time of year. Click on the items below to be directed to its page.
Prune Your Own Garden
Learn the correct way to prune your plants in your garden.
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If you don't know how to prune your trees and shrubs in your garden invite Amanda to your garden to show you how. Take the fear and uncertainty out of pruning your trees and shrubs. For more information and to make an appointment click here. Garden Woes?
"Where do I start?"
If you don't know where to start and what to do to grow veggies, clean up your garden beds, to fix your lawn and other spring garden chores, get Amanda to teach you the ropes in your own garden by making an appointment here.
'Bridal Crown' Narcissus
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March Garden Stars
Apricot Queen barberry, Berberis x lologensis, broadleaf evergreen shrub, 6’-10’ tall & wide, sun to light shade, thorns, berries, drought tolerant. Zones 7 to 9.
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Hardy cyclamen, Cyclamen repandum, herbaceous perennial, 4 to 6”, partial shade. Zones 7 to 9.
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Evergreen clematis, Clematis 'Armandii', evergreen vigorous vine grows to 25 ft, fragrant flowers, sun to part sun, Zones 7 to 9.
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Double Play Big Bang Japanese spirea, deciduous shrub, 3-4’ tall and wide, sun, light shade, pink flowers in summer to fall, butterflies. Zones 4 to 9.
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Mediterranean spurge, Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii, evergreen, succulent herbaceous perennial, 2 – 3’ x 1.5 – 2’, sun, drought tolerant, their milky sap irritates skin. Zones 6 to 9.
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Lily-of-the-valley shrub, Pieris japonica, broadleaf evergreen, sun to part shade, 9–12’ x 6–8’. Zones 5 to 8.
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Oxlip, Primula elatior, herbaceous perennial, 10-12" height & width, sun to part shade, fragrant. Zones 4 to 9.
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Boxleaf azara, Azara microphylla, broadleaf evergreen tree/shrub, vanilla scented pom-pom flowers late winter to early spring, 12-18’ x 8-12’, sun best. Zones 7 to 9.
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Pheasant's-eye Narcissus, N. poeticus var. recurvus, fragrant spring flowering bulb, sun, tolerates moist soils, naturalizes, 14” tall. Zones 3 to 9.
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Flowering currant, Ribes sanguineum, 5 to 8' x 3 to 5', full sun, part shade. Zones 5 to 8.
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Bridal wreath spirea, Spiraea x vanhouttei, deciduous shrub, 5 – 8’ x 7 – 10’, blooms from March to May, sun to light shade, butterflies. Zones 3 to 8.
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Daybreak Yoshino cherry, Prunus yedoensis 'Akebono', deciduous tree, 25’-35’ x 25’-40’, yellow fall colour, sun to light shade. Zones 5 to 8.
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Common violet, Viola sororia, herbaceous perennial, often evergreen, 4-6” x 4-6”, part sun to shade, self seeds. Zones 3 to 7.
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Pasque flower, Pulsatilla vulgaris (Anemone pulsatilla), herbaceous perennial, sun to part shade, 6-12” x 8 -12”, sun to part shade. Zones 2 to 9.
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Common lungwort, Pulmonaria officinalis, herbaceous perennial, shade to part shade, moist soil. Zones 3 to 8
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Lutescens rhododendron, Rhododendron lutescens, broadleaf evergreen, 3-7’ x 4-5’, part sun. Zones 6 to 9.
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Creeping wall cress, Arabis x sturii, evergreen herbaceous perennial, 2-4” x 10-12”, fragrant, drought tolerant, sun. Zones 3 to 9.
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Rhododendron pemakoense, broadleaf evergreen shrub, 1'x2', part sun to shade. Zones 7 to 9.
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March PLANT COMBO
A gorgeous pink flowering cherry steals the show in this multi-story border at VanDusen Botanical Garden.
A graceful ornamental cherry tree is on prominent display with its abundance of pink blossoms. It is surrounded by the more demure blossom of lily of the valley shrub to its left. Their clusters of white dangling flowers are just coming into their own. They are just coming into their own as their . The chartreuse flowers of a splayed Corsican hellebore is in the foreground and the white tree in the background is a flowering almond. The combination works because the flowering cherry's protects the shade loving plants during the summer with leafy canopy.
plant police
Freezing temperatures have disfigured the foliage of this Epimedium planting.
This sad looking Epimedium, which is also referred to as bishop's hat or barrenwort, appears to be infected with some terrible disease, but it's actually suffering from cold damage. This broadleaf evergreen groundcover, will recover, despite the blackened and brown foliage as the roots are still alive. Once the danger of frost has passed, remove all the damaged foliage so new leaves can take their place. It's best not to give it nitrogen plant food yet, not until there's no frost predicted, as any subsequent foliage won't be hardy and may also be damaged if below freezing temperatures occur.
March Pruning
Check for bird nests before pruning trees and shrubs.
Pruning: Before doing any pruning, make sure you are not going to disturb any nesting birds. Cut back buddleias (butterfly bushes), rose-of-Sharon, cinquefoils (Potentilla), Japanese spireas and other summer and fall flowering shrubs and trees. Cut back junipers, yews before new growth begins. Avoid pruning deciduous trees and shrubs once they have leafed out. Also refrain from pruning oaks, hydrangeas and spring flowering plants. For more on pruning click here.
This is NOT the way to prune a tree!
Trees & Shrubs: Don’t cut off all a tree’s branches, commonly referred to as ‘topping’. Doing this heinous acts turns trees into monsters with lots of ugly suckers instead of elegant branches. Do remove dead, diseased and broken branches as well as any suckers and watersprouts. To shorten overly long branches and ones that are in the way, cut back to just above a side branch.
Roses: Remove any winter mulch from the crown and any infected debris from the soil around and on the plant. Mix in a couple of inches of compost, SeaSoil or composted manures. Prune roses once the brilliant yellow forsythias flower, which is usually March in most areas of North America and the UK. For more on pruning roses click here. Pruning Clematis: Should you or shouldn’t you? It depends on the type of clematis you have. To learn all about pruning clematis click here.
Planting Trees & Shrubs
This Edgeworthia standard, has been planted incorrectly that's why it's stems are dying back.
The sooner you get plants in the ground, the better. This gives plants time to weave their roots through the soil by the time summer rolls around. The conditions are idea as the soil and air is cool and rain is never far away. The closer we get to summer, the drier and hotter it becomes, which makes it difficult for plants to take root in their new home.
Here’s some quickie tips. For more detailed info check out the section on Planting Know-How.
Ball & Burlap Vs Containers
Ball and burlap vs container grown plants: Ball and burlap plants (B&B) are grown in clay, unlike ones in pots that are in potting soil. Pure clay doesn’t drain well and doesn’t combine with garden soil, like potting soil does. This makes it difficult for plants to become established when roots are in clay in a garden loam. So, when purchasing plants, select ones grown in containers and bypass B&B’s. Not only are they lighter and easier to handle, they are less expensive. For more on Planting Know How click here.
Container grown plants, like these Camperdown elm standards, are grown in soil so their roots will have no problem integrating into the surrounding soil when planted.
sow Some Seeds
There are numerous ways to sow foxglove seeds. Either sown them outside once the danger of frost is past, or sow them inside 2 to 3 weeks before the last frost. Since they are biennials, they will flower the following year.
Sow Seeds Indoors: You can sow most seeds indoors including cold season crops, but do read the instructions on seed packets for where, when and how to sow. Notable exception include carrots, dill, radishes and coriander, which should be sown in the garden. Many flowers and veggies need to be started inside 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost. These include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants (aubergines), zinnias, petunia and snap dragons. To learn more about sowing seeds indoors click here.
Sow Veggie Seeds Outdoors: It’s too early to plant if the ground is soggy and cold. Wait until the conditions improve and weeds start to grow. Follow instructions on seed packets for when and how to sow crops. Suitable seeds to sow this month are peas, broad beans, spinach, parsnips, radish, and lettuce. Swiss chard, arugula, collards, kale and mesclun. For more on Sowing Seeds Outdoors click here. Sweet Peas: Soak seed for 2 to 8 hours then plant in pots or plant in the garden in a sunny frost free location. Sow Flower Seeds Outdoors: Before sowing any seeds, remove all debris and weeds from the soil, then rake to a fine tilth by breaking up any clods. Sow the seeds according to the recommendations on the seed packet and don’t forget to label. Water gently and keep the soil moist until seeds germinate: clarkia, cornflowers, poppies, borage, cleome, cosmos, Bishop’s flower (Ammi majus), calendula, wallflowers and wildflower mixes. If frost is predicted, cover with a layer of spun-bonded polyester (Reemay), a light garden frost blanket (available at plant nurseries). For more on sowing seeds outdoors click here. 
Sow broccoli seeds indoors in March, April or sow in the garden as soon as the ground is workable or 2 to 3 weeks before the last frost date.
Protecting Seeds OUtdoors
A floating row cover made of spun-bonded polyester protects crops from light frosts and flying insects.
It’s exciting when seeds germinate, but heartbreaking when the die overnight or they just disappear. Slimy trails are clues that snails or slugs have feasted on the tender seedlings. Severed seedlings are victims of cutworms while birds use your garden as their own personal feeder. Birds love to feed newly planted seeds. Here are some ways to help protect them from all those hungry predators.
Birds: To prevent birds from feasting on seeds, cover them with a cloche or a spun-bonded polyester floating row cover. You could use clear plastic but it doesn’t allow air and water to filter through, unlike the fabric. It also has an added advantage of providing a bit of insulation against chilly weather and provides a barrier against flying insect pests. To learn more about cloches click here.
Other options include laying chicken wire or bird netting laid over top of the bed. Shiny things like Mylar balloons and shiny tape also deter birds. Inverted plastic milk crates over vulnerable seedlings also provide an effective barrier. Soil Insects: For bugs that live in or on the soil, there are numerous organic solutions that will not contaminate soil and crops. Diatomaceous earth is a common product used to control soft bodied insects. It’s made from fossilized remains of tiny aquatic organisms called diatoms. Composed of silica, they are sharp and dehydrate insects. Reapply according to the manufacturer’s instructions after rain or irrigation and follow all precautions – wear gloves and don’t breathe it in. Slugs and snails: Sprinkle diatomaceous earth or crushed eggshells on top of the soil where seeds were sown and around the stems of transplants. Reapply after rain. Click here for more on controlling slugs and snails.
Wireworms eat roots and seeds.
Wireworms: They are easy to spot as they are bright orange and shiny. They love to feed on roots, especially grass roots, therefore when removing sod to make a new bed, wait a week. By that time they will have gone to find food elsewhere.
Cutworms sever seedlings at their base.
Cutworms: After sowing seeds, apply diatomaceous earth on top of the soil and reapply when it rains. When planting transplants (starter plants), place a toothpick on each side of the stem or wrap a small strip of newspaper around its stem. It’s finicky, but it does work.
The Seedling Killer!
Once seeds germinate, they are vulnerable to a prevalent fungus called Damping Off. Once infected, seedling stems become thin and thread-like, then they fall over and die. It is a quick death.
Peat pellets absorb too much moisture, alternately, once dry, they repel water.
Lawns:
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Critters of all sorts have been ripping this grass apart to feed on the chafer grubs.
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A chafer grub is a tasty treat for many animals.
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Correct lawn maintenance is the key to controlling grubs that eat grass roots. The real damage occurs when crows and other critters dig up the lawn to feed on the grubs. With correct maintenance, you can reduce grub infestations and have a green and healthy lawn, without starting from scratch. To learn more about what you can do differently regarding watering, mowing and fertilizing click here.
When it comes to lawns – timing is everything. What you do now will help define how healthy your grass will be. Spring growth starts with the roots, so they should be tended to first. Deep fibrous roots aid grass plants to endure environmental stresses such as heat and drought. There’s many ways to encourage healthy roots; it all depends on correct maintenance including mowing and watering. Once the roots are established they will regenerate hardy foliage. Learn the essentials for Spring Lawn Care here. For moss control click here.
When it comes to lawns – timing is everything. What you do now will help define how healthy your grass will be. Spring growth starts with the roots, so they should be tended to first. Deep fibrous roots aid grass plants to endure environmental stresses such as heat and drought. There’s many ways to encourage healthy roots; it all depends on correct maintenance including mowing and watering. Once the roots are established they will regenerate hardy foliage. Learn the essentials for Spring Lawn Care here. For moss control click here.
The crane fly lays it's eggs in lawns during August. It's larvae are referred to as leatherjackets.
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Leatherjackets are another grub that feeds on lawn roots.
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Spring Lawn Care
Holes made from aeration permits air and moisture into the roots.
Lawns: Mow the lawn when it’s dry. I know it is a tall order this time of year, but do keep that in mind if you have a choice. When the soil is soggy, keep of the lawn and mowing with heavy mowers, especially riding mowers. The first cut of the season begins when the grass grows to 3 inches - just take off an inch at most. For more on Spring Lawn maintenance click here.
Lawn & Garden Weeds: Kill weed seeds as they germinate with corn gluten. It is an organic product that also contains a gentle dose of nitrogen. To rid the lawn of existing weeds, such as dandelions, use a long handled weeder to pull them out easily without breaking your back.
Lawn & Garden Weeds: Kill weed seeds as they germinate with corn gluten. It is an organic product that also contains a gentle dose of nitrogen. To rid the lawn of existing weeds, such as dandelions, use a long handled weeder to pull them out easily without breaking your back.
Renovate & Install New Lawns
Water lawn seeds so they don't dry out.
Sod is quick to install, easy to maintain, but it does cost more money than lawn seed.
It’s cool and rainy – perfect for renovating lawns and planting new ones. Get it done now, before it gets too hot and dry. The earlier it is done, the more successful it will be, and by summer, your lawn will be well on its way. Seed or sod? It’s up to your budget. Sod is more expensive but you get an instant lawn; perfect for the front yard. Seeds are more labour intensive due to prep and ensuring seeds are kept moist at all times. Patience is also needed as it takes a while for the lawn to be usable, but it is much less expensive than sod. Backyards are often seeded to mitigate the price of sod used in the front garden. For more on planting and renovating lawns click here.
March Garden Chores
Click on any green items below to be redirected.
Free emerging bulbs caught up in leaf mulch.
Bulbs in leafy mulch: Release any emerging bulbs that get caught up in fall foliage so they can grow unhindered.
Spring Bulbs: Once they have finished flowering, remove any spent flowers on narcissus and tulips so they don’t go to seed. Allow foliage to yellow before cutting them back.
Compost: Turn the pile putting the less decomposed material from the outside of the heap to the middle. Add water if dry, add torn newspaper if it’s too wet. For more on how to compost click here.
Slugs & Snails: They are out in full force this time of year. Learn the different methods on how to control them here.
Spring Bulbs: Once they have finished flowering, remove any spent flowers on narcissus and tulips so they don’t go to seed. Allow foliage to yellow before cutting them back.
Compost: Turn the pile putting the less decomposed material from the outside of the heap to the middle. Add water if dry, add torn newspaper if it’s too wet. For more on how to compost click here.
Slugs & Snails: They are out in full force this time of year. Learn the different methods on how to control them here.
Slug bait traps are easily made from recycled plastic containers.
Birdies: Continue to feed birds with seeds and suet to help them get ready to produce and care for their young. Clean any vacant nests, clean dirty bird feeders and put out shallow water dishes especially if conditions are dry and rain fails to fall.
Greenhouses: Clean and disinfect all surfaces inside and out. It’s got to be done before you start using it.
Tools, Plant Pots etc: Clean, sharpen and disinfect pruners and plant pots with 1 part disinfectant (Pinesol, Lysol) to 2 parts water. Lubricate cleaned tools by spraying with vegetable oil such as Pam.
Greenhouses: Clean and disinfect all surfaces inside and out. It’s got to be done before you start using it.
Tools, Plant Pots etc: Clean, sharpen and disinfect pruners and plant pots with 1 part disinfectant (Pinesol, Lysol) to 2 parts water. Lubricate cleaned tools by spraying with vegetable oil such as Pam.
Pull, don't dig up horsetail weeds as it will spread them even more.
Horsetail weeds: Keep pulling them as soon as they poke out of the ground. For more on how to control this persistent weed click here.
Weed: Get them now by their roots before they take over. Hoe garden soil where weed seedlings are congregating, then apply corn gluten as it will kill any lingering seeds. Don’t apply where you are going to sow desirable seeds.
Weed: Get them now by their roots before they take over. Hoe garden soil where weed seedlings are congregating, then apply corn gluten as it will kill any lingering seeds. Don’t apply where you are going to sow desirable seeds.
A peony is staked and ready to grow.
Stake: Don’t wait to stake plants as they will be flopping over before you know it. Place stakes next to delphiniums and other tall plants so you can secure them as they grow. Cage peonies and other top heavy plants now so they will grow through their cages.
Ornamental Grasses: Cut them back to an inch preferably before they start to grow new foliage.
Trees: Check staked trees to ensure they are not being strangled. Remove stakes and ties if the trees are stable and no longer need staking. Don’t keep trees staked for longer than two years as that weakens them, and twine and other staking material becomes so tight, it chokes the life out of them.
Ornamental Grasses: Cut them back to an inch preferably before they start to grow new foliage.
Trees: Check staked trees to ensure they are not being strangled. Remove stakes and ties if the trees are stable and no longer need staking. Don’t keep trees staked for longer than two years as that weakens them, and twine and other staking material becomes so tight, it chokes the life out of them.
Ouch! This well-intentioned rope is cutting into the tree trunk and must be removed asap.
Garden Beds
Use a cultivator to dislodge weeds, including germinating weed seeds.
Winter Mulch: Remove winter mulches from garden beds gradually, as the season progresses. If it’s below freezing temperatures persist, remove the layers as they thaw.
Garden Beds & Improve Soil: Remove debris, weeds and rocks. Improve the soil by adding at least a couple of inches of compost, composted manure and or well-rotted aged manure. Use a garden fork or rototill so it’s incorporated into the existing soil. Wait a week for the soil to settle then plant trees, shrubs, perennials and cool season crops. To learn more about building soil click here.
New Beds: Use garden hose to outline curved beds or use stakes and twine to outline angular beds. There’s no need to dig up the lawn if you use the lasagna sheet mulching method. To learn how click here.
Garden Beds & Improve Soil: Remove debris, weeds and rocks. Improve the soil by adding at least a couple of inches of compost, composted manure and or well-rotted aged manure. Use a garden fork or rototill so it’s incorporated into the existing soil. Wait a week for the soil to settle then plant trees, shrubs, perennials and cool season crops. To learn more about building soil click here.
New Beds: Use garden hose to outline curved beds or use stakes and twine to outline angular beds. There’s no need to dig up the lawn if you use the lasagna sheet mulching method. To learn how click here.
When building a new bed, you don't have to cut out the lawn with sheet mulching, aka, the lasagna method.
In The Veggie Garden
Soil heats up faster in raised beds.
Warm Soil for Early Planting: There are numerous ways to heat up cold soil. A simple solution is to secure a sheet of clear or black plastic on top of soil approximately six weeks before you want to plant. Or preheat beds with floating row covers or cloches by placing them in the garden a few weeks before planting underneath them.
Improve clay soils, which stay colder longer than loamy soils, by mixing in a few inches of compost, well-rotted manure or other organic matter. Don’t add sand to clay soils as you’ll create concrete. Remove any straw that was placed on veggie beds during the winter as it will keep the cold in the soil at this time of year. For a more permanent solution, consider installing raised beds and fill with a nice garden loam.
Cover Crops & Green Manure: If you planted crimson clover, winter peas or other cover crops last fall, cut them down and dig them in two weeks before you plant veggie plants. This ‘green manure’ should break down during that time and will enrich and build the soil. To learn more about cover crops click here.
Protect Crops: Protect crops from flying insects that lay their eggs and eat crops with a floating row cover and/or a cloche. This simple and effective method prevents persistent insects such as carrot rust fly, leaf minor on spinach, chard and other leafy vegetables. Prevent caterpillars and cabbage moth on broccoli, cabbages and cauliflower. To learn more about cloches and floating row covers click here.
This bed of crimson clover has just been cut down and dug in.
Edibles to Plant in March
Onions & Shallots: Select a sunny, dry location, then cover them with netting or floating row covers to prevent hungry birds from digging them up.
Rhubarb: Plant rhubarb crowns when they are still dormant in early spring. Make large holes 18" deep and 18-24" and fill with 50/50 soil and well-rotted, or composted manure. Place the crowns in the hole so the buds are ½ to 1 inch below the soil surface, no deeper. Make sure the crown is not sitting in a depression or it will rot. Wait for the second year to harvest stalks, and only remove a few at that time.
Asparagus: Plant asparagus crowns in well-drained location in full sun. Protect emerging asparagus spears from hungry insects by laying a thick layer of crushed eggshells around them. Wait three years to harvest for the plants to become established.
Strawberries: Plant in a well-drained, sunny location. Mulch with a layer of straw to keep them clean, reduce disease and to lessen slugs and snails. Remove flowers this year for the plants to become established. Plants will be healthier and more productive in subsequent years.
Potatoes: It’s time to plant taters when dandelions flower. Prepare them for planting by chitting, which encourages sprouting. Chit seed potatoes by placing them upright in egg cartons in a bright, frost free location. Don’t add lime to the soil as the sweeter soil promotes potato scab. To learn more about growing potatoes click here.
Add Lime with Brassicas: To prevent club root, a common disease of cauliflower, brussel sprouts, cabbage, broccoli and other cole crops, mix in dolomite lime according to the instructions..
How to Grow Veggies: To learn the basics as well as companion planting, crop rotation, succession planting and more click here.
Rhubarb: Plant rhubarb crowns when they are still dormant in early spring. Make large holes 18" deep and 18-24" and fill with 50/50 soil and well-rotted, or composted manure. Place the crowns in the hole so the buds are ½ to 1 inch below the soil surface, no deeper. Make sure the crown is not sitting in a depression or it will rot. Wait for the second year to harvest stalks, and only remove a few at that time.
Asparagus: Plant asparagus crowns in well-drained location in full sun. Protect emerging asparagus spears from hungry insects by laying a thick layer of crushed eggshells around them. Wait three years to harvest for the plants to become established.
Strawberries: Plant in a well-drained, sunny location. Mulch with a layer of straw to keep them clean, reduce disease and to lessen slugs and snails. Remove flowers this year for the plants to become established. Plants will be healthier and more productive in subsequent years.
Potatoes: It’s time to plant taters when dandelions flower. Prepare them for planting by chitting, which encourages sprouting. Chit seed potatoes by placing them upright in egg cartons in a bright, frost free location. Don’t add lime to the soil as the sweeter soil promotes potato scab. To learn more about growing potatoes click here.
Add Lime with Brassicas: To prevent club root, a common disease of cauliflower, brussel sprouts, cabbage, broccoli and other cole crops, mix in dolomite lime according to the instructions..
How to Grow Veggies: To learn the basics as well as companion planting, crop rotation, succession planting and more click here.
Pinch off any strawberry flowers for the first year to encourage strong roots and vigorous plants.
Companion planting just means growing different but compatible veggies in the same bed. To learn more, click on the picture.
Kale: Don’t discard last year’s kale if it isn’t dead. Keep harvesting foliage and when their flowers emerge, cut them off and cook them up or add to salads. Removing the flowers will extend the life of the kale so you can keep harvesting for another summer. Kale are cool that way.
Veggies in Planters: Plant cold hardy plants in containers using 3 parts potting soil to one part compost. Don’t use garden soil as it contains all kinds of pathogens and weeds. Some cool season crops to plant now are broad beans, peas, Swiss chard, spinach, lettuce, onion and shallot sets, kale and potatoes. To learn more about growing in containers click here.
Kale and marigolds make a pretty planter combo.
Making more plants
This helenium fell apart last fall revealing an old and bare centre. Now is a good time to dig it up and divide into to smaller plants.
Divide Perennials: Dig up black eyed susans, bee balm, iris, chrysanthemums and other summer and fall flowering perennials. Discard dead and unproductive growth. Divide the remaining plant into sections and replant or pot up to sell or give away.
Root & Basal Cuttings: Make more asters, chrysanthemums and other herbaceous perennials with basal cuttings and root division. For more on root cuttings click here.
Root & Basal Cuttings: Make more asters, chrysanthemums and other herbaceous perennials with basal cuttings and root division. For more on root cuttings click here.
Dividing roots of an Autumn Joy sedum.
aphids
Aphids love to feed on new tender spring growth.
It’s spring and aphids love to feast on all the new tender foliage and flower buds. It’s a good idea to check the new growth for aphid infestations. While you’re doing your inspections, look for any ladybugs and their pupa before killing any aphids. Either allow ladybugs to feed on their favorite food, or squish the aphids with your fingers while hosing them off. Avoid using soap or insecticides as it will kill all insects it touches. If aphids are a constant problem in your garden, avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers (first number), which also includes nitrogen rich soil plant food and soil amendments such as manures and fish fertilizers. For more on controlling insects click here.
Ladybug larva don't resemble the adult black and red beetles.
Ladybug eggs are bright yellow and are commonly found on leaf undersides.
This weird looking insect is the pupa of a Ladybug so leave it be.
Tender Bulbs
Tuberous begonias are frost tender to wait to place them outside until after the danger of frost.
Plant begonia tubers in potting soil when they start to produce buds.
It’s time to pot up overwintering tender plants so they will be ready for summer.
Tuberous Begonias: Pot them up now. For more on how to grow tuberous begonias click here. Once the danger of frost has past, plant outside, once they have been gradually introduced to the outdoors. This process is referred to as ‘hardening off’.
Gladiolus: Plant them in the garden two weeks before last expected frost.
Overwintered Geraniums (Pelargoniums): Remove spindly stems, sickly foliage and cut back remaining stems by half. Repot in the same pot with fresh potting soil. Trim roots to fit pot if necessary or repot into a pot one to 2 inch larger. Add a slow release granule plant food. Water and place a sunny window or under lights. Harden off before placing outside once the danger of frost has past.
Dahlias: Start early by planting in pots. This gives them a good head start and protects new growth from slugs and snails. For more on Dahlias click here.
Tuberous Begonias: Pot them up now. For more on how to grow tuberous begonias click here. Once the danger of frost has past, plant outside, once they have been gradually introduced to the outdoors. This process is referred to as ‘hardening off’.
Gladiolus: Plant them in the garden two weeks before last expected frost.
Overwintered Geraniums (Pelargoniums): Remove spindly stems, sickly foliage and cut back remaining stems by half. Repot in the same pot with fresh potting soil. Trim roots to fit pot if necessary or repot into a pot one to 2 inch larger. Add a slow release granule plant food. Water and place a sunny window or under lights. Harden off before placing outside once the danger of frost has past.
Dahlias: Start early by planting in pots. This gives them a good head start and protects new growth from slugs and snails. For more on Dahlias click here.
Plant up dahlias in pots now so they will flower sooner, and it prevents slugs and snails from eating their sprouting foliage.
Plant some Flowers
Couldn't resist this pink candelabra primula.
Plant pansies, primrose, potted flowering spring bulbs and other early flowering plants in garden beds and planters. Check your local nurseries for their floral selection.
March Arrangement
A mixed bouquet of March flowers.
March flowers from my garden include daffodils (Narcissus), heather (Erica carnea), skimmia (S. japonica), grape hyacinths (Muscari armeniacum), flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum), lungwort (Pulmonaria), bridal spirea (Spiraea vanhouttei), primroses (Primula) and glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa luciliae). For more details and for more floral arrangements click here.
March Plant of the month
Star Magnolia
The star magnolia is a small tree with a rounded broad canopy.
Their fragrant flowers appear in March.
A star magnolia is the star of this perennial border at VanDusen Botanical Garden.
Flowers are profuse and are borne on leafless stems.
This mature star magnolia has good 'bones'.
Pure white petals look and feel like satin ribbon.
Stems are hidden by the masses of flowers.
Foliage turns a bright yellow in autumn.
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Common Name: star magnolia
Botanical Name: Magnolia stellata Form: small tree with a broad, rounded canopy Family: Magnoliaceae Genus: Magnolia Species: stellata Plant Type: deciduous tree Mature Size: 15 to 20 feet x 10 to 15 feet Growth: fast Origin: Japan Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9 Foliage: soft and pale green elliptical, ovate and simple with good yellow fall colour Flowers: fragrant, showy star-shaped with many floppy, broadly linear white petals in March. Appears before foliage on leafless stems. Attracts birds and butterflies. Exposure: sun to part shade, but flowers best in full sun Soil: soil tolerant but prefers moist, humus rich, well-drained loam, intolerant of arid and wet soils, therefore water during drought. Benefits from being mulched to retain soil moisture. Uses: specimen, accent, borders, foundations, multi-story plantings, courtyards and small gardens Propagation: layering, softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer Pruning: immediately after flowering, if needed Problems: frost damage to flower buds in spring Comments: The star magnolia blossoms in March, before most flowering trees on bare leafless stems. It is a magnificent sight with bright white star-shaped fragrant flowers bursting from its pale brown branches, that tend to darken as they age. It's not just the masses of ribbon petalled flowers that are making of this broad topped tree, star magnolia also have great bones. Even in the middle of winter this tree stands out with its spreading branches and pussy willow flower buds. Due to it's many lateral branches it is also a convenient perch for birds throughout the year. Although this little tree is hardy, the flower buds and blossoms can be damaged by frosts, especially when they are located in a southern facing location. Unopened flower buds resemble pussy willows and become a prominent feature of the plant during the winter. Since the star magnolia likes moist rich soil, apply 3 inches of mulch on top of the soil, but keep it a few inches away from the trunk. Avoid rock mulches, dry and sandy soils that lack organic matter. There are numerous cultivars available such as ‘Gold Star’ with pale yellow flowers. ‘Jane Platt’ is an award-winner due to its pink flowers that are doubly packed with petals. 
Their fuzzy, pussy willow type flower buds.
All those twigs and intricate branches catch freshly fallen snow.
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Golden October foliage accentuates this star magnolia's broad canopy.
Star magnolias are magnets for birds due to their twiggy branches that tend to grow laterally. Note the plethora of the flower buds that resemble pussy willows.
Need Help?
Need help figuring what to do in your garden? Make an appointment for Amanda to come to your garden to show you how to grow food, sow seeds, prune, design beds etc. Need help trying to figure out how to get the garden ready for spring? Get Amanda to teach you the ropes by making an appointment here.
THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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