A November frost decorates a Bathsheba David Austin climbing rose.

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November Garden Chores

A Dawyck Gold beech, Fagus sylvatica 'Dawyck Gold'.

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In This Issue

Nature's confetti.

Videos: Planting Fall Bulbs & Planting a Fall Planter
Finishing Up - Preparing for Winter Storms & Snow - After the Storm & Snow 
Planting Spring Flowering Bulbs - Critter Alert - Transplanting & Planting - Fallen Leaves
Lawns - Pruning - Roses - Cuttings & Saving Seeds - Veggies & Other Edibles 
Soggy Soil - Composting - Slugs & Snails - Garden Beds - Tree Banding - Seasonal Planters
Winterize Your Garden - Bananas, Palm Trees & Tree Ferns - Overwintering Tropicals 
Dahlias, Tuberous Begonias & Summer Bulbs - Garden Tools & Equipment - Ponds in Winter
Birdies & Hummingbirds in Winter - Plant of the Month: Persian Ironwood

An American sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua) on a foggy November morning.

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Fellow Gardeners..

A November snowfall surprises the still green and leafy plants.

Hello Fellow Gardeners,
When I lived up north in Labrador City and Fort McMurray, there was no gardening going on in November. I remember first frosts were oftentimes in August, just in time to kill off all the tomato plants. October was when winter arrived and by November the growing season was done and dusted.
Here in south coastal British Columbia, I wanted to get started preparing the garden for winter in October, but I was premature. The dahlias, even as I write this, are flowering away and most trees are still donning their colourful fall foliage.
I can’t put the garden to bed if it’s still wide awake!
But it is November after all, and I know from experience that this month can be quite nasty in the Pacific Northwest. Not only does it catch people off guard, it also surprises the humus out of plants that didn’t get the memo from Mother Nature.
While still in leaf, plants are stunned with the heavy wet coastal snow and the accompanying plummeting temperatures.
Meanwhile, gardeners, including myself, are not prepared.  Usually, the snow doesn’t linger, so once it’s gone, the garden takes priority. Everything else be dammed.
We’ve got a big garden so I have to work fast to get everything done. I admit it’s a challenge, but once the garden is tucked away for the winter, I am so relieved - and so are my knees and back. So while my wellies take a rest, my heating pad becomes my beloved companion. 
Have fun in the garden this month, I hope the Mother Nature cooperates.
Cheers,
Amanda

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New Garden Videos

With the help of Foxx Cant of Prismatic Fox Media, I have some gardening videos. I hope you like our latest creations. Click on the pics to be directed to short video on how to plant fall bulbs and a second video on planting up a seasonal planter. For more garden videos, please visit Amanda's YouTube Channel. 

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November's ​Floral Arrangement

November 2024

This November arrangement includes purple smokebush, hydrangeas, yew and Japanese spirea. For specifics and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements.

Gift Cards Available!

Get the perfect gift for gardeners and non-gardeners alike with a gift certificate for a personal garden consultation. In the two-hour consultation their gardening questions are answered such as how to lower maintenance, landscape design, trouble shooting, plant ID, lawn care, veggie gardening and other garden related issues.  A $200.00 value. Serving Metro Vancouver. Click here to fill out the form. 

Subscribe!

Click on the pic sign up for your free subscription.

With a subscription to The Garden Website.com. you will learn what to do in your garden, how to do it and when it should be done. Take the guesswork out of gardening with a free subscription to this comprehensive, educational and beautiful website. Just click here to subscribe.

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Need A Garden Consultation?

Learn about your garden and get your garden questions answered.

Book a home visit and have your garden questions answered including trouble shooting sickly plants, pest control, plant ID, garden design, veggie gardening advice, pruning and how to lower your garden maintenance. Learn how to become a better gardener and enjoy your garden. Serving Metro Vancouver. ​
To book an appointment click on Need Help? Gift certificates are also available here.

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Garden Classes 

​Restoring Soil Health: This four-day workshop is designed for the ecologically minded, farmers & landscape stewards to improve plant & animal health. Taught by Jo Tobias, the founder of RootShoot Soils, is a Regenerative Soils & Living Compost Specialist.
Dates: Nov. 16, 23, 30 & Dec.7th 2024 (Saturdays) 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM
Location: Riverway School, 4340 Carson St, Burnaby. B.C. 
To learn more and to register click here. ​

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​GARDEN CLUB EVENTS

Get the word out to other like-minded plant lovers by posting your garden club events here. Click here to list your garden club events. ​

The BC Fuchsia and Begonia Society promotes  fuchsias, begonias, ferns and other shade-loving plants. The society meets at 7pm, 3rd Wednesday each month at St. Timothy's Church Hall, 4550 Kitchener Street. They offer knowledgeable speakers, plant displays, plant sales, refreshments and friendship. Click on Fuchsias & Begonias to learn more. ​

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November Garden Stars

Pampass grass, Cortaderia selloana, herbaceous perennial, ornamental grass, 8-10' x 4-6', leaves have sharp edges, sun, drought tolerant. Zones 8 to 10. Aug

Maidenhair tree, Ginkgo biloba, deciduous tree, sun to part shade, female trees produce smelly fruit, 50 -80’x 30’-40’, yellow fall colour. Zones 3 to 8. Click on pic for more.

Firethorn, Pyracantha coccinea, deciduous shrubby vine, 6’ – 18’ tall & wide, May white flowers, sun to part shade, bears large thorns. Zones 6 to 9.

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Boston ivy, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, clinging, woody deciduous vine, 30- 50ft x 5-10ft, blue berries, fall colour, sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 8

Heavenly bamboo, Nandina domestica, broadleaf evergreen, June flowers, orange berries, sun to shade, 3-8’ x 2-4’. Zones 8 to 10. Click on pic for more.

Dwarf fothergilla, Fothergilla gardenii, deciduous shrub, 1.5ft to 3ft x 2ft to 4ft, fragrant white flowers, sun to part shade, good fall colour. Zones 5 to 8.

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Japanese Stewartia, S. pseudocamellia, deciduous tree, 20 - 40' x 10 - 25' , sun part shade, attractive bark, white June, July flowers. Zones 5-8. Click on pic for more.

Guernsey lily, Nerine bowdenii, perennial bulb, 14-18”x 3-6”, sun, fall flowers, well-drained soil. Zones 8 to 10.

Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, broadleaf evergreen, 10’-20’ tall & wide, fragrant, fruit & flowers at the same time Oct to Dec. Zones 7 to 9. Click on pic for more.

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Acer saccharum, sugar maple, deciduous tree, 40-80’ x 30-60’, sun, part shade. Zones 3 to 8.

Winterberry, Gaultheria procumbens, broadleaf evergreen groundcover, 6” x 1’, white blooms June, July, edible red berries, part shade, shade. Zones 3 to 8. Click on pic for more.

Beautyberry, Callicarpa bodinieri, North American deciduous shrub, 6-10', sun to part shade. Zones 6-8. Click on the pic for more.

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Glossy abelia, Abelia x grandiflora, fall flowers, broadleaf evergreen shrub, 4 - 6’ x 5’, sun to part shade. Zones 6 to 9. Click on the pic for more.

Royal Purple smokebush, Cotinus coggygria, deciduous shrub, purple summer foliage, fall colour, 10-15’ x 15’- 20’. Sun, part shade. Zones 4 to 8

Maidenhair ornamental grass, Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’, 4-7ft x 3-6ft, copper blooms age to silver from fall thru winter, sun to part shade. Zones 5-9

Tulip tree, Liriodendron tulipifera, deciduous tree, 60 – 90’. x 30 – 50’, summer flowers, sun. Zones 4 to 9.

Ornamental kale, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, biennial, 1’x 15”, grown for foliage, sun to part shade. Zones 2-9. Click on the pic for more.

Dwarf winged burning bush, Euonymus alatus 'Compactus', deciduous shrub, 9 to 10' tall and wide, sun to part shade. Zones 4-8. Click on pic for more.

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November Garden Chores

Click on the coloured links to be redirected.

November's weather is notoriously unpredictable.

It's time to get the garden in order.

Avoid working with wet plants.

Wait for fair weather days to garden.

​Finishing up: This is the last month for planting, popping bulbs in the ground, transplanting plants in need of a better home, tending to the lawn and putting things away. Working in the garden is tricky this month as fair weather days are few and far between.  Working in the rain is a big taboo. Wet garden tools, plants and soil are slick and slippery. Plant roots are easily squished as wet soil compacts easily underfoot. To top it off, touching wet plants spreads any disease and fungal spores. Let’s hope there’s some lovely days ahead so we can get things done.

Secure trampolines so they don't blow away.

Store all cushions and soft furnishings inside.

Make sure shed doors & windows are firmly secured.

Clean all drains to prevent flooding.

Turn off outside water supply to prevent burst pipes.

​Prepare for Storms & Winter:
It’s that time of the year when weather watching is prudent. In the event of a storm, wind, hail, sleet, snow or heavy rain, store the BBQ and other outdoor furniture in the garage, indoors or in the car port.  If that is not an option, secure their covers with bungee cords and place them under the eaves and against the house. Bring cushions and all other soft furnishings inside. Put loose items in a shed or garage. Tether trampolines securely so they don’t blow away. Bring in bird feeders or place them under the eaves.
Secure doors on the shed and greenhouse and close any vents. Clear out the eaves and drains, including the city’s drain to prevent flooding. Keep brooms, shovels and snow removal equipment handy.
Empty the water out of garden hoses and any spray heads then store them in a dry location out of severe weather.  For underground irrigation systems, contact an irrigation company to blow out the lines.   

Leave the big and dangerous jobs to certified ISA arborists!

Use a broom to take the heavy snow from shrubs and tree limbs.

Use salt-free de-icers on paths to protect plants & soil.

Remove broken branches before they fall.

After Storms & Snow:

• Cut off broken branches when and if it’s safe to do so. If not, hire a fully insured certified ISA arborist with insurance.
• Don’t prune branches to within 10 feet of utility lines and don’t go near downed lines. Contact the utility company immediately.
• Use a broom, pole or hockey stick to knock off snow that’s crushing shrubs and weighing down tree branches.
• Use salt-free de-icers on paths and anywhere that’s close to plants and lawns to prevent salt damage. 

Plant daffodils 6 to 8 inches deep.

Snowdrops are one of the earliest spring blooms.

Critters love tulip bulbs so protect them when planting.

Click on the pic for the video.

​Plant Spring Flowering Bulbs: As long as the ground isn’t frozen it’s okay to plant daffodils, tulips, crocus and other bulbs. To ensure they are tucked in for the winter, lay 3 inches of fall leaves, straw or another organic mulch overtop. Here’s more on Planting Spring Bulbs.
Critter Alert! As the season progresses into winter, skunks, racoons, squirrels, rats, mice and other varmints are hungry and will be looking for food. To learn how to protect your plants and garden click on Critter Control. 

Get new plants in the ground asap, don't wait for spring.

Avoid ball & burlap plants as they are difficult to establish.

Ball & burlap plants are grown in pure clay, not soil.

Don't delay transplanting as sooner the better.

​Transplant & Plant: If the ground isn’t frozen or a mud pit, dig up plants that need to be relocated to another part of the garden. Check out garden centres for plant sales and seasonal beauties and get them in the ground asap. To learn the right way to plant trees, shrubs click on Planting Know How.

Fall leaves help protect the soil & plants from the cold.

Lay fall leaves on top of plants to protect their crowns.

The front garden is all tucked away for the winter,

Brush leaves off evergreen shrubs so the don't rot.

Protect planters with fallen leaves.

Fallen Leaves: Keep them. They are packed with nutrients and as they break down, they enrich and protect the soil. Winter Mulch: Pile leaves on top of tender plants, perennials, roses and shrubs. Protect Soil: Cover bare soil with 3 inches of fallen leaves. Planters: Place on top of exposed soil and around plants. Evergreen Shrubs: Remove the leaves from overhead trees that have smothered the shrubs below. Leaf Mould: Shove them in garbage bags with some holes poked through or place them in a pile and let them decompose.  Be patient as it takes about a year for them to break down into a rich, black humus. 

The lawn should be leaf free before winter sets in.

Don't cut the lawn too short.

Apply a winterizer fertilizer low in nitrogen & high in potassium.

Don't mess with frosty frozen lawns.

Prune trees & shrubs in winter, not now.

Lawns: If not under snow or frozen, give your lawn some TLC. Keep leaves off the lawn, especially before snowfall. Rake them off the grass and onto garden beds or mow them if - and when they are dry. Mow only when the grass is dry and not frozen. Set the mower height to 2 inches for the last cut of the year. Fertilize with a winterizer fertilizer that’s high in potash, and low in nitrogen ex: 4-2-8. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers (first number is highest) as they promote new lush growth that’s too tender for winter conditions. Here's more on lawns: Lawn Basics - Lawn Reno, Seed & Sod - Lawn Maintenance Schedule
Pruning: It’s too late for major pruning, wait for winter when plants are dormant. Just remove branches that are too low down and in the way.  Cut back or remove overly long branches that will whip around in the wind. Remove suckers, watersprouts and branches that are dead, broken and diseased. Here’s more on Pruning 101 - Winter Pruning

There's still time to plant roses this month.

Secure long rose canes or shorten them.

Protect roses by covering their crowns.

Rose hips provide colour & feed the birds.

Remove all infected foliage.

Roses: It used to be common practice to cut rose plants back hard before winter – but not anymore. Taking too much off makes them susceptible to winterkill. This doesn't mean they don’t need some trimming and TLC. Cut back overly long canes to prevent the wind from ripping them around, which might uproot them (windrock). Remove dead flowers but leave any colourful rose hips to feed overwintering birds and to add much needed colour to the gardens. Cut off ALL dead canes, and any other growth that has snuffed it. Pick up all foliage from the soil and any infected ones remaining on the rose plant. Winter Rose Protection: Mound soil, compost and/or fall foliage where where stem and roots meet (the crown). For free roses, take cuttings from your favorites. To learn how to plant and take care of roses click on: Roses - Pruning Roses

Take cuttings from shrubs. Pictured Mexican mock orange, Choisya ternata. Click on pick for more.

Take cuttings from trees. Saucer magnolia pictured. Click on pic for more.

Take cuttings from fruiting plants. Blueberry pictured.

Collecting lettuce seeds. Click on pic for quickie video.

​Cuttings & Saving Seeds: Take hardwood cuttings from trees, shrubs and evergreens now through winter and early spring. Use dormant, mature stems with firm wood that doesn’t easily bend. Take root and basal cuttings from perennials now until mid-February. Collect dry, mature seeds from the garden. Store them in a frost free, dry location in paper envelopes, not plastic. Don’t store wet seeds and mouldy ones. Here’s more on Seed Saving. 

Protect winter veggies with a cloche. Click on pic for more.

Plant garlic cloves asap.

Kale are very hardy!

A straw mulch insulates the soil around a broccoli plant.

Veggies & Other Edibles
It’s important to remove all the icky stuff from the ground so it doesn’t reinfect next year’s crops. Follow up by covering the ground with 3 inches of straw, fall leaves or newspaper. Don’t go too thin on the mulch as it will blow away. Add more not less.
Leave your kale plants, chard, cabbage and other cold hardy plants as they are tough cookies. Some, especially kale, will survive the winter and will continue to grow next year. Remove all infected, yellow & dead growth. Protect remaining plants and the ground with a 3 inch layer of straw, fall leaves or newspaper. To further protect them from the ravishes of winter cover them with a cloche. 

Stake Brussel sprouts so they don't fall collapse over the winter.

Cover rhubarb with their foliage.

Cut off raspberry canes that bore fruit.

Discard any rotten stored produce.

Stake top-heavy Brussel sprout stems and pile up soil around their base to keep them stable. Cut down Jerusalem artichokes stems, dig up tubers and store in a bucket of vermiculite or clean potting soil and store in a cool location. Cut off all the canes that produced fruit from raspberry and blackberry plants. Train remaining canes along wire or wooden frames. Garlic: If the ground isn’t frozen, plant garlic to harvest in late spring, early summer. Select a sunny area where there’s good drainage or they will rot.
Stored Veg: Check potatoes and other stored root crops regularly and discard any rotten ones.

There are ways to fix bad drainage.

Rain gardens are becoming more popular.

French drains are an effective way to move excess water.

Soggy Soil: Unintentional garden ponds and squishy lawns are a common sight this month due to the November rains. Inspect all drains in and around the property and remove any debris. For persistently soggy soils, consider installing a pond or a French drain. It’s a low-tech method to remove water using a trench and gravity.  For more solutions click on Draining Soggy Soils.
Another option is to make a rain garden where excess water is directed and absorbed. To learn more click on Langley Township Rain Gardens, and the US EPA Rain Gardens. 

Always cover veggie scraps with fall leaves or torn newspapers.

Don't compost seedy weeds.

This slug bait trap will stop further damage to these primroses.

​Compost: Don’t compost plants with seeds, weeds, buggy and diseased plants. Don’t compost meat, cooked foods or fat as they screw up the composting process. They also make the compost stink and attract rats and other critters. Instead add fall foliage, grass clippings (not too much), healthy plants from the garden and uncooked kitchen scraps. If the pile is too wet mix in dried fallen leaves or torn up newspapers and add water if it’s too dry. Mix everything well with a garden fork then top with about 6 inches of dried fall leaves or torn up newspaper. Here’s more on Composting.
​Snails & Slugs: Tattered plants and slime trails are the tell-tale signs of slugs and snails. Hunt for them on rainy days or at night with a flashlight and a cup of salty water to drop them into. If that doesn’t appeal to you, put out slug bait traps or use strips of copper to protect susceptible plants.  To learn more about the different methods click on Slugs & Snails.

A chopped & dropped Siberian iris.

Leave a few inches when cutting back perennials.

A garden bed that needs some winter prep.

The same garden with a thick layer of fall leaves is ready for winter.

Garden Beds: Don’t rake beds clean as it robs the soil and plants of vital nutrients. Keep fallen leaves, sticks, stems, spent flowers and other debris on the ground. Cut back the stems of daisies, coneflowers and other perennials to 2 to 4 inches above the ground. This gives them a bit of protection from the cold and provides habitat for beneficial insects. Remove all infected and infested stems and discard, however, if they are healthy cut them up and place around the mother plant on top of the soil. This is referred to as 'chop & drop'. It protects the soil and plants from the elements and enriches the soil. Here’s more on Preparing the Garden for Winter and Fall Garden Chores. And don’t forget to pull up those darn weeds. 

Tree banding stops insects in their tracts.

A well protected tree.

Ornamental grasses look good in winter & feed birdies.

Wait until early spring to cut back ornamental grasses.

Protect Trees from Bad Guys: Stop insects in their tracks by wrapping trees with a sticky tree band. Purchase a tree banding kit or wrap plastic wrap around tree trunks, smear the plastic with Vaseline or Tanglefoot to prevent caterpillars from climbing and infesting susceptible trees. For more details lick on Plant Pests Part 2 - Controlling Insects.
Ornamental grasses: Cut back droopy, untidy grasses to 6 inches, but leave those that are still looking good. Their seeds provide food for birds, and they dress up winter gardens. 

A yellow variegated false holly, Osmanthus heterophyllus 'Goshiki' is surrounded by ornamental kale, mums & heather.

An existing planter is easily dolled-up.

Corkscrew hazel stems & gourds provide funk to this winter planter.

Seasonal Planters: Enhance your porch and patios with planters full of handsome hardy plants that look good throughout the winter. Garden centres are the perfect place to pick one up and to get ideas as well as suitable plants: coral bells (Heuchera), lenten roses (Helleborus), winter pansies, winter heather (Erica carnea), skimmia, sweet box (Sarcococca), and Blue Star juniper.  Add some fall bulbs, funky sticks and a colourful gourd and you’re good to go. Here's more on Container Growing & Choosing a Container. Check out my video Amanda’s Fall Planter. 

Build a trench to bury pots.

Cover the pots with straw or fallen foliage.

Bury planters in the compost bin.

Move planters into protected areas.

This planter is protected from roots to tips.

Potted Outdoor Plants: If potted plants are going to stay outside for the winter it’s best to protect them by burying them in the garden up to the rim of the pots – if possible. It’s the thermal heat of the earth that keeps their roots warmer. Another option is to wrap insulation, bubble wrap, blankets or whatever around the pot, then top with straw, fall leaves or another organic mulch. The plants in the planter need protection too. Cover small ones with fall leaves and wrap taller ones with breathable fabric such as old sheets, burlap and frost blankets. Don’t use plastic as it promotes rotting and doesn’t keep plants warm. Move planted containers not used for winter displays, out of the rain and into protected areas. Avoid leaving empty clay and ceramic pots outside to prevent breakage. ​

A camellia is wrapped with a frost blanket.

Pineapple lilies, Eucomis zambesiaca, also need winter protection.

New Zealand flax, Phormium tenax, need winter protection.

Frost blankets are available at dollar, garden and hardware stores.

Tie evergreens so they keep their shape under snow.

Winterize: Would you like to spend the entire winter outside without a nice woolly coat? How about if you were wrapped in plastic? I certainly wouldn’t and not many plants would either. There are numerous ways to protect plants depending on the type of plant. All plants benefit from a thick layer of organic mulch placed on top of the soil to help insulate the soil from the weather. Perennials benefit from a thick 3 inch layer of fall leaves placed over top of their crowns (where the stems & roots meet). Take special care to protect pineapple lily (Eucomis autumnalis), freesias, fuchsias, elephant ear (Colocasia spp.), New Zealand flax (Phormium spp.) and other tender, borderline hardy plants in your area. 
Tie string or rope around evergreen shrubs to protect them from being squashed and weighed down by heavy snow.  Attach the twine to the bottom of the plant and work your way up in a spiral pattern. To further protect them, wrap with layers of burlap, bedsheets, or shrub covers available at garden centres and home hardware stores. To prevent frost cracks on thin barked and newly planted trees, wrap the trunk with a fabric tree wrap. 

Protect the growing bud of palms and their roots.

Australian tree ferns at VanDusen Botanical Garden are ready for winter.

Protect banana plant roots.

​Bananas: Cut back stems to 2 feet, don’t worry new stems will replace them in spring. Chop the cut stems into pieces then place on top of the remaining plant. Add more protection by adding a couple of inches of fall foliage.
Palm trees & tree ferns:  Mulch the ground around Chinese windmill palms (Trachycarpus fortunei) and Australian tree ferns (Dicksonia antarctica) 6 inch thick layer of mulch. Wrap the stems with burlap or another fabric,  but most importantly, protect the bud at the very top of the plant. That’s where new leaves are formed and if that dies then the palm tree will not recover. Protect the bud by wrapping the top of the plant with many layers burlap or a frost blanket. Don’t use plastic as it promotes rotting and does not insulate against the cold and fluctuating temperatures. 

Use angel trumpets (Brugmansia) as houseplants over the winter.

It's best to overwinter dahlias indoors. Marble Ball pictured.

Save your geraniums by overwintering indoors.

Christmas cactus need care to initiate blossoms. Click on pic for more.

Overwintering Tropicals
If you haven’t brought in your geraniums, angle trumpets, bougainvilleas and other tender tropicals – hurry up and do so. I’ll be back in a sec… Don’t get too upset when they turn yellow and drop all their flowers and foliage after being brought inside. That’s to be expected. New leaves will replace the old. Just check their pots for slugs and such; remove all rotten and dead stuff then place in front of a sunny window, or preferably under lights. For more click on Overwintering Tropical Plants Indoors and Saving Geraniums, Coleus & Tender Plants.  
Dahlias, Tuberous Begonias & Other Summer Bulbs: Dig them up and store them in a dark, dry frost-free but cool place. Once they have been stored and cured, remember to check on them every few weeks. Discard any rotten ones asap. For more click on Dahlias or Tuberous Begonias.  
Christmas cacti & friends: Christmas, Thanksgiving and Easter cactus are not cactus, but succulents and they are closely related. To learn how to tell them apart and how to spur on blooming click here.

Remove all liquids out of the shed.

Don't forget to service your lawn mower.

Store fertilizer over the winter in a dry, frost free location.

Secure trellises and all other loose structures.

Garden Tools & Equipment: Clean, sharpen and put away all garden tools, including the lawn mower and other equipment. Remove the gas from gas mowers and sharpen blades (or get them done by a professional). Move chemicals, fertilizers and seeds to a frost free and dry location.
In the garden make sure trellises, arbours, cloches, fleece and other forms of winter plant protection are pinned, tied or weighed down with bricks or rocks. Place containers against the house or other structures away from the wind & rain. Water any pots that have dry soil to make them heavier, so they are less likely to topple. Remove all hanging baskets, alive and dead, and any empty pots lying around. Cut off any broken and dead tree branches. Shorten overly long branches as they catch in the wind uprooting plants. Do not take the tops off trees to make them shorter! This diminishes their roots, encourages weak growth (suckers) and makes them more prone to topple. 

There's no need to remove waterlilies from ponds.

Disconnect the pump from waterfalls & drain the tubing, then store.

​Ponds: Cover with chicken wire or netting to prevent debris from collecting. Once all the leaves have fallen, prepare your pond for winter. Don’t drain the water from ponds as it will only fill up with debris, rain and snow. Use a net to scoop up leaves and other debris. Remove potted pond plants and cut them back to their base. Tropical plants need to be removed and discarded or overwintered indoors. Don’t worry about water lilies as they are quite hardy. To learn how to maintain a healthy pond throughout winter click on Ponds in Winter.

Suet sustains a hungry downy woodpecker.

Two birdies on the hunt for food.

Anna's hummingbirds do not migrate from the Pacific Northwest.

Birdies: Keep feeders clean and filled with seeds. Soak mouldy feeders in  hot water with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Rinse and dry thoroughly before refilling. Feed insect eating birds with suet. Place suet cakes in suet cages and hang from trees and eaves.
Hummingbirds in Winter: The Anna’s hummingbirds that live along  southern coastal British Columbia to Baja California, don’t migrate over the winter.  Needless to say, they need a steady supply of unfrozen nectar to survive. For the nectar recipe and tips on how to keep the nectar from freezing click on Hummingbirds in Winter. 

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Plant of the month
Persian Ironwood

A beautiful Persian ironwood at VanDusen Botanical Garden.

December colour at the Washington Arboretum.

Summer foliage.

Impressive fall colour.

Their yellow fall foliage also turns red, purple & orange.

Persian ironwoods are a popular municipality tree.

A city grove of Persian ironwoods in North Delta in October.

Nature's gold.

Beautiful branching structure.

Deep red fall colour from a city tree.

Leaves start to change colour in October.

Small flowers occur on leafless stems in early spring.

​Common Name:  Persian ironwood
Botanical Name:  Parrotia persica
Form:    upright with spreading canopy
Family:  Hamamelidaceae
Genus:  Parrotia
Species:  persica
Plant Type: deciduous tree with a single or multi-stemmed shrub
Mature Size: trees: 20’ to 40’ x 20’ to 30’, shrubs: 15’
Growth: slow
Origin:  Northern Iran
Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9
Foliage:  2-4”, asymmetric, ovoid, wavy margins, red new growth, green in summer, impressive fall colours
Flowers: no petals but many red stamens surrounded by brown sepals Feb, March prior to leafing out
Fruit: 2 seeds in a capsule, not ornamental
Bark:  peeling bark reveals tan, white or green patches underneath
Exposure:  full sun for spectacular autumn colors
Soil:  tolerant of most, prefers slightly acidic, well-drained
Uses:  street tree, accent, winter interest, fall colour, specimen, cottage, urban gardens
Attracts: bees
Invasive Tendencies: none
Tolerates: clay, alkaline, air pollution, tolerant to drought & heat once established
Propagation:  semi-hardwood & softwood cuttings
Pruning:  generally, not needed
​Awards: Award of Garden Merit of the Royal Horticultural Society
Problems:  no serious pests or diseases

Comments: 
 
The Persian ironwood tree, Parrotia persica, is gaining popularity because it’s got something going on no matter what the season. It’s toughness and versatility has also made it a favorite of many municipalities. It handles pollution, heat, drought and doesn’t seem to mind clay and alkaline soils.
 
This medium sized, ornamental, low-maintenance tree has good bones and with its attractive spreading branches that create a pleasing canopy. Combined with its pinkish shiny bark that flakes off to reveal a patchwork of pale pink, soft yellow, with shades of cinnamon and green, it is a perfect winter garden addition.
 
Persian ironwoods are grown as single trunk trees and as multi-stemmed shrubs. When grown as a tree, they can grow from 20’ to 40’ tall with a canopy of 20’ to 30’, but shrubs only grow to 15’.
 
Although Persian ironwoods grow best in slightly acidic, well-drained soil with medium moisture, they adapt to warm, and dry soils once they are established.
 
The Persian ironwood is not a conservative, neat looking tree, not because of its branching habit, but because of its foliage. Their leaves are lopsided with wavy and undulating edges (margins) like those of their witch-hazel cousins.  
 
The foliage of the Persian ironwood goes through remarkable colour transformations during the growing season. New foliage is bright red, which matures to a deep shiny green during the summer. In autumn the magic begins as their leaves turn into different shades of yellow coloured with pinks, purples and oranges. Full sun is critical for a good fall display.
 
Although the flowers bear no petals, they do feature four small, rounded sepals that surround a cluster of, densely packed deep red stamens.  The flowers are quite conspicuous as they appear on naked stems in early spring before their leaves emerge. 

Flowers occur before the leaves appear.

The mottled trunk adds interest to winter gardens.

No two Persian ironwood bark colours are the same.

For spectacular fall colour, plant in full sun.

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for the tropical Gardener

While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here. 

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