Coneflowers!
Garden Chores for August
Lucky Number dinnerplate dahlia lookin' fine.
In This Issue
Little Goldstar Black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia fulgida 'Little Goldstar'
New Video: Amanda's July Garden - Cedar Decline - August Garden Stars - August Garden Chores
Do Trees Wilt? - Before Going on Holiday - Ants & Roses - Lawn Care - Saving Seeds
In the Veggie Garden - Pruning - Roses - Tomatoes
Plant of the Month: Hardy Fuchsias
Do Trees Wilt? - Before Going on Holiday - Ants & Roses - Lawn Care - Saving Seeds
In the Veggie Garden - Pruning - Roses - Tomatoes
Plant of the Month: Hardy Fuchsias
'Sweet' Kordatura groundcover rose & Marvel of Peru, Mirabilis jalapa.
Fellow Gardeners..
Lady Darlene is all grown up!
Hello Fellow Gardeners,
The garden is maturing with every tomato that ripens and with every dahlia flower that raises its pretty face to the brilliant August sunshine. It doesn’t seem that long ago when I sowed those teeny tomato seeds and potted up my dahlia tubers. It was just February when I was filled with the promise and hope of what my garden will become. Now it’s August and the seedlings that were sown in spring are not babies any more, they are all grown up. Some have passed their prime, like the lettuce and radish, but other plants like the tomatoes and dahlias are just hitting their stride - and it is glorious. Food and flowers abound! Isn’t August grand! It’s such a special time of year but it seems to go by way too fast. Before you know it, September will be here. The shorter days, cooler temperatures and chilly evenings put plants in a tailspin of decline. But let’s leave that for next month after all we still have August to revel in and to enjoy. 
And to think, these tomatoes are from one wee seed that was planted in February. Now its all grown up.
A visit to my July GardenAugust's Arrangement
August 2024
Fuchsias, roses and hydrangeas are featured in this month's arrangement. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements
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Water Restrictions
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August Garden Stars
Yarrow, Achillea millefolium, herbaceous perennial, 1’ to 2’ tall & wide, June to September, sun, tolerates dry soil, butterflies, bees. USDA Zones 3 to 8.
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Salmon Stargazer lily, Lilium orientale 'Salmon Stargazer', hybrid oriental lily, summer bulb, sun, fragrant, 3 ft., 6” to 8” flowers. USDA Zones 3 to 9.
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Goldfinger shrubby cinquefoil, Potentilla fruticosa ‘Goldfinger’, deciduous shrub, 3’-4’ x 4’-5’, sun to part shade, bees, butterflies. USDA Zones 3 to 8.
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Bear's breeches, Acanthus mollis, herbaceous perennial, 3’-5’ x 2-3’, blooms June to July, sun to part shade, thorns, attractive foliage. Zones 7 to 10. Click on pic for more.
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Pampass grass, Cortaderia selloana, herbaceous perennial, ornamental grass, 8-10' x 4-6', leaves have sharp edges, sun, drought tolerant. Zones 8 to 10.
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Gladiolus, summer bulb, 2’-6’, fragrant blooms August, Sept., sun. Zones 7 to 10, use as annual or store over winter.
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Pink Japanese anemone, Anemone tomentosa ‘Robustissima’, herbaceous perennial, 4ft, sun, part shade. Zones 5 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Mountain ash, Sorbus aucuparia, deciduous tree, 20-40' x 10- 20', white flower clusters, orange berries, birds, bees, sun. Zones 5 to 6. Click on pic for more.
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Peachie Keen agastache, A. 'Peachie Keen', herbaceous perennial, 2’x2’, sun, light shade, hummingbirds, bees, butterflies. Zones 5 to 9.
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Garden phlox, Phlox paniculata, herbaceous perennial, fragrant blooms July - Sept, sun to part shade, 2’ to 4’, equal spread, attracts butterflies, hummingbirds. Zones 4 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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Bee balm, Monarda didyma x fistulosa, herbaceous perennial, 2'-4' x 3', sun, light shade, hummingbirds, butterflies. Zones 4 to 9.
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Purple coneflower, Echinacea purpurea, herbaceous perennial, 15” to 18” x 12” to 16”, sun, part shade, butterflies. Zones 4 to 8.
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Pretty Petticoat hybrid bearded tongue, Penstemon ‘Pink Petticoat’, herbaceous perennial, 18-24” tall & wide. Sun, part shade. Zones 4 to 9.
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Persian silk tree/mimosa, Albizia julibrissin, deciduous tree, 16-52', fragrant, sun. Zones 6 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Goldsturm black-eyed susan, Rudbeckia fulgida 'Goldsturm', herbaceous perennial, 2', sun, part shade, Zones 4 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
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‘Bobo’ hydrangea, deciduous shrub, 2-3’ x 3-4’, white flowers age to pink, part to full sun. Zones 3 to 8. Click on pic for more.
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Sneezeweed, Helenium autumnale, up to 30", sun, attracts bees, butterflies, hummingbirds. Zones 4-9. Click on the pic for more.
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Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus, deciduous tree-like shrub growing to 12 ft, Zones 5-8. Best in full sun. Click on the pic for more.
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Leopard plant, Ligularia dentata, herbaceous perennial, 3-4’ x 2’3, part to full shade, moist soils, summer flowers. Zones 3 to 8.
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Purple shamrock, Oxalis triangularis papilionacea, perennial bulb, part shade to shade, 6"-12" x 12"-24", attracts butterflies. Zones 6 to 11.
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Oakleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia, deciduous shrub, 6' to 8' tall and wide, flowers mature to pink and persist into winter, plum fall foliage colour, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 9.
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August Garden Chores
Please note that coloured, underlined text are linked to another page on this website or another website. Most of the pictures are also linked and will redirect you if you click on them.
August gardens are full of flowers, and in this case - a cat trying not to be seen.
A Walk the Garden: Enjoy the dahlias, roses, daisies, hydrangeas and other summer flowering plants with regular visits to the garden. Give wilted plants a drink. Inspect plants for common summer issues: powdery mildew, blights, stink bugs, Japanese beetles and other plant eating nasties. Speaking of which, squirrels, birds and other critters love to feast on our veggies and fruit - who can blame them. Click on Critter Control for more. For more on what to look for when walking the garden click on Garden Inspections.
Powdery mildew on a rose. Click on pic for more.
Japanese beetle damage on a potato leaf. Click on pic for more.
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Stink bug on a black-eyed susan. Click on pic for more.
Rabbits are a threat to plants (unless it's the Killer Rabbit from Monty Python fame). Click on pic for more.
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When It's Too Hot For Plants: Brown crispy leaf margins (leaf edges) and bleached-out patches are a symptom of too much sun. When plants wilt in the heat of the day, then revive at night prop up a tarp, sheet or umbrella to shade them from the hot sun. Consider moving them to a shadier location in the autumn.
Hot sun from the west has fried the leaves on this hosta.
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Calla lilies succumb to the heat despite being well watered.
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A handy brolly offers a quick solution to scorching sun.
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Reduce Time Hand Watering: Set up sprinklers to water the garden. It’s easy to do. Just attach a timer attached to an outside faucet. Timers are available through Amazon, home hardware and where garden products are sold. For more on watering click on Watering Tips & Techniques.
Water Shrubs & Hedges: Water each plant deeply to ensure that every plant gets a good long drink. In addition consider laying out soaker hoses along the hedge and cover with mulch.
Water Shrubs & Hedges: Water each plant deeply to ensure that every plant gets a good long drink. In addition consider laying out soaker hoses along the hedge and cover with mulch.
Drip systems don't replace handwatering.
Cover soaker hoses with mulch.
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Attach timers to faucets and hoses to make watering easier.
All this set up needs is a timer.
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Sprayer heads on a drip lines are efficient.
Don't forget to water your hedges during the summer.
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Do Trees Wilt? Kind of. They don’t collapse or sag, however they do show drought distress in other ways. Trees take on a silvery, grey cast. Their leaves fold inwards revealing the back of the foliage. Leaf edges turn brown and crispy and eventually fall off. Eventually, branches die back from the tips down.
Tree roots stretch far and wide, past the tree’s canopy so give the entire area a good long soak. Place a dribbling garden hose around the tree’s dripline for 30 – 60 minutes, then move it a few feet eventually encircling the tree. When using a sprinkler, place it under the tree’s canopy. Place a couple of soaker hoses around a tree’s dripline and keep it on for a few hours. Dig down to see how deep the water has penetrated. Don’t forget to water street trees planted by the city around your property.
Tree roots stretch far and wide, past the tree’s canopy so give the entire area a good long soak. Place a dribbling garden hose around the tree’s dripline for 30 – 60 minutes, then move it a few feet eventually encircling the tree. When using a sprinkler, place it under the tree’s canopy. Place a couple of soaker hoses around a tree’s dripline and keep it on for a few hours. Dig down to see how deep the water has penetrated. Don’t forget to water street trees planted by the city around your property.
A very thirsty katsura (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) during the heat dome of 2021.
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Leaves folded inwards is a symptom of drought stress.
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Yellow leaves and premature leaf drop are symptoms of severe drought.
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Apply water along the dripline of the tree.
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Cedars, arborvitaes (Thuja spp.): In BC, our native Douglas fir (Pseudostuga menzeii), and native red cedars (arborvitaes, Thuja plicata.) have suffered through years of unprecedented heat and drought. The weather extremes have taken their toll, and once lush green cedars are showing brown and rusty red foliage on greying branches. As the plants decline they produce an excessive amount of pollen, which results in abundance of cones. This ‘distress crop’ ensures the continuation of the species during times of environmental stress.
Prevention: Water your cedars, arborvitaes (Thuja spp.) and other conifers well during the summer. Before placing soaker hoses or drip systems, water the soil thoroughly by hand. Keep the hoses and soakers on long enough to thoroughly wet the soil. Add at least 3 inches of mulch on top of the ground to help keep the water from evaporating off. Keep it a few inches away from plant stems. Don't rake off the foliage from the ground that has fallen from the trees, leave it be just as nature intended.
Prevention: Water your cedars, arborvitaes (Thuja spp.) and other conifers well during the summer. Before placing soaker hoses or drip systems, water the soil thoroughly by hand. Keep the hoses and soakers on long enough to thoroughly wet the soil. Add at least 3 inches of mulch on top of the ground to help keep the water from evaporating off. Keep it a few inches away from plant stems. Don't rake off the foliage from the ground that has fallen from the trees, leave it be just as nature intended.
Temperature extremes have caused many cedars to lose their foliage.
Leaves turn a rusty brown.
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A declining western red cedar, Thuja plicata.
One Emerald cedar in this is dying back. The others might follow.....
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Summer Pruning & Trimming: There are numerous types of plants that benefit from being cut back. Summer pruning helps keep growth in check on wisterias, grapes and other vines. Fruit trees branches and fruit need to be thinned. Errant growth removed along with dead, diseased, distorted, and spindly branches. Prune all hedges so new growth will have hardened up before frost.
It’s hot and it’s dry so go easy on the pruning. Don't take more than a quarter of growth off at a time. Avoid cutting back plants when they are wilted and suffering from the heat. Be mindful that trees and shrubs need their leaves to produce food and to cool themselves so taking too much at one time, especially under the extreme conditions of summer is oftentimes detrimental to a plant’s health. The loss of foliage reduces their food intake, causes them injury and stresses them out. It also exposes the tender foliage that was previously shaded, to the sun, which in turn damages them.
It’s hot and it’s dry so go easy on the pruning. Don't take more than a quarter of growth off at a time. Avoid cutting back plants when they are wilted and suffering from the heat. Be mindful that trees and shrubs need their leaves to produce food and to cool themselves so taking too much at one time, especially under the extreme conditions of summer is oftentimes detrimental to a plant’s health. The loss of foliage reduces their food intake, causes them injury and stresses them out. It also exposes the tender foliage that was previously shaded, to the sun, which in turn damages them.
When to prune clematis depends on the type of clematis. Click on pic for more.
Apples: Thin fruit clusters & cut fruitless branches to 2 buds.
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Deadhead feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium) so they'll reflower.
Prune hedges this month.
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Prune and harvest grapes when ripe. Click on pic for more.
Prune wisterias now to control their growth and promote flowering,
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Too much has been taken off this deutzia resulting is sun scorched foliage.
Cut back spent flowers from petunias & other bedding plants.
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Saving water: Recycle the unsalted water from boiling veggies, pasta, rice and eggs. The water also contains beneficial plant nutrients. Direct rainwater from the gutters to downspouts into rain barrels. Note that most municipalities offer rain barrels to the public. Use grey water to water your garden. Collect it in a bucket when you shower, bail the water after a bath, recycle dirty dishwater by placing a wash basin in the sink.
Add mulch! Lay three inches of wood chips or another mulch on top of the soil and around plants to keep the soil from baking and to reduce evaporation. It really does work. To learn more click on Drought Gardening.
Potted Plants: Planters quickly heat up and dry out. Check on them daily and water thoroughly. Add a drainage tray under pots to catch and retain any excess water.
Add mulch! Lay three inches of wood chips or another mulch on top of the soil and around plants to keep the soil from baking and to reduce evaporation. It really does work. To learn more click on Drought Gardening.
Potted Plants: Planters quickly heat up and dry out. Check on them daily and water thoroughly. Add a drainage tray under pots to catch and retain any excess water.
Direct down spouts into rain barrels.
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A layer of mulch holds moisture in the soil.
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The wilted zucchini on the left is wilted and much smaller than the zucchini on the right.
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What the Metro Vancouver Water Restrictions Allow: Just because we have local water restrictions, it doesn’t mean we can’t water our gardens. Watering trees, shrubs and flowers is permitted any day from 5 am to 9 am when using a sprinkler, any time when hand watering or using drip irrigation.
Edible plants (veggies, fruits and herbs) are exempt of the water restrictions.
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Water lawns is permitted only one day a week in Metro Vancouver.
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Watering trees, shrubs and flowers is permitted any day from 5 - 9 am.
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Remove dead flowers: Cut off dead flowers from shrubs, perennials, annuals and summer bulbs. Don't deadhead lavenders as the birds love their seeds. Also keep the seed heads from plants you want to save the seeds from.
Collect Seeds: Wait for seeds, pods and capsules to turn brown before plucking them off hollyhocks, marigolds, sweet peas, peas, beans and other plants. Pick them when dry and store them in paper envelopes in a frost-free, dry place. Label with collection date & name. For more click on Collecting Seeds.
Collect Seeds: Wait for seeds, pods and capsules to turn brown before plucking them off hollyhocks, marigolds, sweet peas, peas, beans and other plants. Pick them when dry and store them in paper envelopes in a frost-free, dry place. Label with collection date & name. For more click on Collecting Seeds.
A collection of dry and ripened, mature seeds to save from the garden.
Leave lavender flowers as birds love their seeds.
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Cilantro seeds are brown and ready to save.
Remove peony seed heads to prevent seed production.
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Lettuce flowers feed pollinators and produce seeds.
Store seeds in envelopes and don't forget to label.
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Overcrowding: It is inevitable that some plants grow with such gusto they overstep other plants’ boundaries. The intimidated surrounding plants are left in the shadows, are unable to receive adequate light, air and water. To rectify, cut back any leaves and/or branches that are in the way of the less mighty. Consider moving the less vigorous plants in the autumn to a more suitable location.
This large daylily looks good but it has overtaken the minor plants around it.
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There's a rose in there.
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Oh, there it is.
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Shrub Love: Removing faded blooms to tidy plants and to redirect their energy from seed production to create a more compact plant and maybe initiate more flowers, depending on the plant. Cut flowers off just above a leaf or node (bud) or side branch. Don’t cut stems back too far – just a quarter of growth from each stem. To help plants recover from the surgery, give them a nice long drink and feed them with fish or another organic fertilizer. Don’t cut back rhododendrons and other spring flowering shrubs as you will be removing next year’s blossoms. More on Pruning - Pruning Tools
Remove dead flowers from shrubs.
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Don't take too much off, no more than 1/4 from each stem.
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Some plants, like this Japanese spirea, may flower again after deadheading.
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Epsom Salts on Tomatoes & Roses: Epsom salts provide magnesium sulfate, a micronutrient that plants need in small amounts. It assists in absorption of nutrients and intensifies colours including green foliage and flower colour. Use as a foliar spray or as a soil drench. Mix 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts in one gallon of water. Don’t apply it as a foliar spray in full sun as it will damage the foliage.
Take Pictures & Notes: Take time to assess the garden. Photos are great reminders of what is doing well and what isn’t. Take note of any plant that needs to be transplanted, overcrowded beds, beds that are too sparse, areas that lack flowers and seasonal interest. Wait until autumn to move plants to more suitable locations and to plant new plants.
Take Pictures & Notes: Take time to assess the garden. Photos are great reminders of what is doing well and what isn’t. Take note of any plant that needs to be transplanted, overcrowded beds, beds that are too sparse, areas that lack flowers and seasonal interest. Wait until autumn to move plants to more suitable locations and to plant new plants.
Epsom salts provides micronutrients.
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Epsom salts intensify flower colours.
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Epsom salts make nutrients available.
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Make More Plants with Cuttings: Shrubs, trees and vines are easily cloned by taking cuttings. Take semi-hardwood cuttings from stems with a woody base and soft green tops ex: hydrangea, camellia, Mexican mock orange (Choisya), California lilac (Ceonothus), heather, hebe, mahonia, viburnum, magnolia, conifers, jasmine, passionflower. If in doubt, experiment and take as many cuttings from as many plants as you like.
I was excited to make cuttings from Alison's Aztec Pearl Mexican Mock Orange.
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Heel cuttings are usually quite successful. Click on pic for more.
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A promising pot of cuttings.
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Weeding: It’s easier to pull out weeds when the ground is moist so water after it has rained and irrigating. Pull them up before they spread their seed. Don’t put seedy weeds in the compost. Select organic herbicides: fatty acids, horticultural grade vinegar etc. Add a few drops of liquid dish soap to the spray bottle to help it adhere. Reapply at least every 7 days. Protect surrounding plants with cardboard and follow the instructions to the letter. Once weeding is completed, prevent more weeds by laying 3 inches of wood chips or another organic mulch on top of the soil. Do not put fabric under the mulch.
Some weeds like bindweed and horsetails are exceptionally difficult to eradicate. To learn some techniques to kill the blighters, click here.
Some weeds like bindweed and horsetails are exceptionally difficult to eradicate. To learn some techniques to kill the blighters, click here.
It takes strategy to get rid of horsetails. Click on pic for more.
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Bindweed loves to climb through and on plants.
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Try to pull out all the runners and babies when weeding - argh!
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Purchase mulch in bags from hardware stores, nurseries and garden centres.
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Ponds: Thin out plant growth and remove any leaf litter, algae and other organic debris. Replenish water that has evaporated in ponds and water gardens.
Water for All: Birdbaths and shallow dishes full of water are a lifesaver for our fine feathered friends and other wildlife. The neighbourhood dogs also appreciate a water bowl when they are walking their people around the ‘hood’. Keep containers clean and refresh the water daily.
Water for All: Birdbaths and shallow dishes full of water are a lifesaver for our fine feathered friends and other wildlife. The neighbourhood dogs also appreciate a water bowl when they are walking their people around the ‘hood’. Keep containers clean and refresh the water daily.
Keep ponds and water features topped up with water.
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Water features provide water to pollinators and birds.
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Bees drink along the rim of a birdbath.
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Pieces of fruit are a source of water and food.
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Pollinators: Allow lettuce, spinach, beets, and radish and other non-fruit bearing veggies to flower. All kinds of pollinating insects love their simple blossoms. Shallow trays of water with a few pebbles added, helps bees and butterflies rest while they are taking a drink. For more ways to help pollinators click here.
Hummingbirds: Keep hummingbirds humming with a continuous supply of fresh nectar. Clean feeders each time to reduce diseases and moulds. Soak feeders in a solution of 1 part vinegar to 2 parts hot water, or 1 part bleach to 9 parts hot water for 30 minutes. Use bristled brushes to scrub all parts. Rinse thoroughly and allow them to dry before refilling them with nectar: ¼ cup white sugar to 1 cup boiled water. Only use white sugar and bother dying it red. Allow the nectar to cool before adding to the feeder.
Hummingbirds: Keep hummingbirds humming with a continuous supply of fresh nectar. Clean feeders each time to reduce diseases and moulds. Soak feeders in a solution of 1 part vinegar to 2 parts hot water, or 1 part bleach to 9 parts hot water for 30 minutes. Use bristled brushes to scrub all parts. Rinse thoroughly and allow them to dry before refilling them with nectar: ¼ cup white sugar to 1 cup boiled water. Only use white sugar and bother dying it red. Allow the nectar to cool before adding to the feeder.
Disinfect hummer feeders before refilling with nectar.
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Trays of water helps pollinators and others.
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Flowers bring insects to the garden like this lovely dragonfly.
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Pollinators love radish flowers. I can see why.
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Compost: After adding raw veggie kitchen scraps, turn the compost pile with a garden fork. Add water if it is dry. Top the pile with a couple of inches of brown (carbon) layer of shredded newspaper or dried foliage to reduce flies, fungus gnats and rodents. If the pile is too wet, mix in shredded newspaper, toilet rolls, paper towel rolls, and top it up with a couple of inches of torn newspaper or dried leaves. Avoid seedy weeds, buttercups, bindweed, horsetails and other plants that spread. Don’t add cooked food, fat, or meat. To learn more about composting click here.
Add uncooked kitchen scraps to composts but avoid cooked food, fat and meat - to prevent rodents and unpleasant odors.
Avoid composting bindweed and other plants with runners.
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Always leave the compost with a few inches of torn newspaper, fall leaves or another carbon source.
Don't compost seedy plants like these wild violets.
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Lawns: It’s summer so lawns are struggling through the heat and drought. With the current water restrictions in most municipalities, watering the lawn is allowed only one day a week. Make the most of that day and water for one full hour for each area. Lawns that are not watered become weedy and prone to grubs including chafer beetles, sod webworm and leatherjackets.
Keep grass long (3 to 4”) to prevent insects from laying their eggs, to provide more food for the grass plants and promote longer roots. Mow often so 1/3rd of the grass blade at cut off at each mowing. Leave the clippings on the lawn if they are short enough that they don’t clump. The clippings also are a good source of nitrogen and other nutrients.
Click on the following links for more info: Lawn Care Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Mossy Lawns - Lawn Reno Seed & Sod - Lawn Grub Control - Lawn Alternatives
Keep grass long (3 to 4”) to prevent insects from laying their eggs, to provide more food for the grass plants and promote longer roots. Mow often so 1/3rd of the grass blade at cut off at each mowing. Leave the clippings on the lawn if they are short enough that they don’t clump. The clippings also are a good source of nitrogen and other nutrients.
Click on the following links for more info: Lawn Care Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Mossy Lawns - Lawn Reno Seed & Sod - Lawn Grub Control - Lawn Alternatives
Cut grass long during the summer.
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It's obvious that short grass does not do as well as the longer grass.
Cut the grass frequently so clippings are short so they don't clump.
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Lawns only need 1 inch of water a week to prevent it looking like this. The weed is happy though.
Sharpen the mower blade after every 7th cut.
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Ant Colonies & Roses: A few ants on a rose is no big deal; they are there to feed on the honeydew secreted by the aphids. An ant colony underneath a rose, well that’s another thing altogether. Their tunnels undermine plant roots – literally as they are unable to access food and water. Borax is a very effective ant killer, which the ants take back to their nest. To attract the ants to the borax, add a sweetener. Mix 3 parts sugar to one part borax. Sprinkle the powder thinly across the ant trail and around the base of the plant. The ants will carry the back to the colony for the larvae to eat. Reapply as needed. Keep ants from forming colonies under roses and any plants by keeping them well watered. Ants love, absolutely adore, dry soil and as the saying goes, ‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure’.
My healthy Tropical Lightning climbing rose.
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The same rose after an ant colony made a nest.
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Borax mixed with sugar kills ants in and out of the nest.
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Deadheading Roses: Remove dead blossoms from flower clusters, then remove the entire stem after flowering. Cut rose canes off just above an outward facing leaf that has 5 to 7 leaflets. This also applies when cutting roses for flower arrangements. For stems without foliage, cut canes back by ¼ to just above a node or side branch. For more on pruning roses click here.
After Each Flush of Blooms: Water well then fertilize with kelp meal, seaweed extract or fish fertilizer to promote healthy growth and more blossoms. Enrich the soil with an inch or two of compost mixed in around the roots. Top it off with a 3-inch layer of mulch followed by a nice long drink of water. Roses also benefit from a high phosphorous fertilizer (middle number highest ex: 6-8-6) to promote more blossoms.
After Each Flush of Blooms: Water well then fertilize with kelp meal, seaweed extract or fish fertilizer to promote healthy growth and more blossoms. Enrich the soil with an inch or two of compost mixed in around the roots. Top it off with a 3-inch layer of mulch followed by a nice long drink of water. Roses also benefit from a high phosphorous fertilizer (middle number highest ex: 6-8-6) to promote more blossoms.
Cut rose stems back to a 5 leaflet leaf.
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Make the most of your roses with deadheading, feeding and watering.
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To promote more rose blossoms, feed with a high phosphorus fertilizer.
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The circled insect is a lady bug larva and its feasting on the aphids.
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Powdery Mildew: Powdery mildew is a white substance that coats the leaves, buds and flowers of many plants including cucumbers, garden phlox, tomatoes and maple trees. Before spraying with baking soda or a milk solution, remove severely damaged foliage. To reduce infection, keep water off foliage, and don’t allow the soil to dry out.
A squash leaf with powdery mildew.
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A rose leaf with powdery mildew.
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A maple tree is covered with powdery mildew.
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Vegetable Gardening: It’s harvest time so daily visits to the garden is warranted. It best to gather crops in the morning after the dew has evaporated and plants are dry. Zucchinis are best when small, the same goes for beans, but wait for green peppers to ripen and turn colour. To learn more about picking at the peak of perfection and how to harvest click Harvesting.
Time to reap what you have sown.
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Pick peppers once they have coloured up, not when they are still green.
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Pick beans before they start to bulge with seeds.
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Onions, garlic, shallots: To encourage large bulbs, snip off flowers as they appear (make them into pesto or add to stir fries). Stop watering when their leaves start to yellow. Harvest when their leaves brown. Cure and then store in a dry location.
Potatoes: Stop watering when stems start to die back. Wait for two weeks before digging them up. Use a garden fork to gently lift them from the ground. Rub the soil off with your hands, don’t rinse them as it promotes mould. Store in paper bags or boxes in a cool and dark frost free area. Discard any that are diseased and eat ones that were damaged while digging them out of the ground.
Potatoes: Stop watering when stems start to die back. Wait for two weeks before digging them up. Use a garden fork to gently lift them from the ground. Rub the soil off with your hands, don’t rinse them as it promotes mould. Store in paper bags or boxes in a cool and dark frost free area. Discard any that are diseased and eat ones that were damaged while digging them out of the ground.
Remove flowers (scapes) from garlic, onions and shallots.
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An August harvest of garlic & potatoes.
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Alison's garlic harvest is curing.
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To keep potatoes from going green, protect them from light with newspaper.
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Going on Vacation? Coming home to a shriveled, drought-traumatized garden is never pleasant. It’s a good idea to have someone take care of your garden in your absence, if possible. First show them the ropes: location of the faucet, hoses, watering cans. If they are not gardeners, give them a demonstration on how to water efficiently. Point out areas of the garden that will need some extra care such as planters and areas of the garden that dry out quickly. As a thank you, let them harvest any crops in your absence.
Before you go on holiday make sure everything in the garden is well watered. Put drainage trays under all your potted plants to act as a reservoir so water doesn’t drain away. Give them a good soak before you leave. Another option is to sink their pots into the ground in a vacant spot in the garden, or in an open compost pile. Move any planters that are in full sun, especially afternoon sun, to a shadier location. For those that are too big to move, cover them with shade netting or remay (fleece, spunbonded polyester). Harvest all the ripened crops before you go. You don’t want to return to baseball sized zucchini and disgusting rotten tomatoes.
Before you go on holiday make sure everything in the garden is well watered. Put drainage trays under all your potted plants to act as a reservoir so water doesn’t drain away. Give them a good soak before you leave. Another option is to sink their pots into the ground in a vacant spot in the garden, or in an open compost pile. Move any planters that are in full sun, especially afternoon sun, to a shadier location. For those that are too big to move, cover them with shade netting or remay (fleece, spunbonded polyester). Harvest all the ripened crops before you go. You don’t want to return to baseball sized zucchini and disgusting rotten tomatoes.
You can rest easy when you know your garden will survive your absence.
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Protect plants with shade spunbonded polyester.
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Put planters in a shadier location while you are away.
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It’s All About the Tomatoes: Tomatoes are not necessarily the easiest crop to grow. It’s August so they should be pumping out their delicious fruit and growing with gusto by now. If not, there’s a few things that you can do to help them along. If there is a lack of flowers but an abundant amount of foliage, too much shade or too much nitrogen are to blame. Speed up ripening with some careful pruning. Split fruit is caused by inconsistent watering. Blossom-end rot is from too little calcium and inadequate watering. Watch out for blight: a disease that causes withering, wilted plants and diseased fruit. For more information on growing and taking care of tomatoes check out the following links:
Tomato Troubles - Speeding up Tomato Harvest - Taming Tomatoes - Tomato Tips - Saving Tomato Seeds
Tomato Troubles - Speeding up Tomato Harvest - Taming Tomatoes - Tomato Tips - Saving Tomato Seeds
Home grown tomatoes taste delicious. They are pretty cute too.
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Blossom end rot on tomatoes - argh!
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It's not unusual for blight to infect tomatoes at the end of the growing season.
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Split fruit is caused by irregular watering.
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Caterpillars: Black, brown and green droppings combined with tattered, chewed and rolled leaves are telltale signs of a caterpillar. To control, handpick, spray with soap, or use bacillus thuringiensis (Bt, thuricide) It is a bactericide that only kills caterpillars so avoid applying it near butterfly gardens.
Corn Earwigs: Place a couple of drops of mineral oil on the silks within a week of each corn cob to prevent earwigs.
Slugs & Snails: Slime trails and tattered plants are a sure sign that they have been prey to hungry mollusks.
Stink Bugs: It was last year, in 2023, that stink bugs infested the gardens of British Columbia. So far we've escaped an infestation this year. Stink bugs suck the juice out of foliage, fruit, veg and flowers making crops inedible.
Corn Earwigs: Place a couple of drops of mineral oil on the silks within a week of each corn cob to prevent earwigs.
Slugs & Snails: Slime trails and tattered plants are a sure sign that they have been prey to hungry mollusks.
Stink Bugs: It was last year, in 2023, that stink bugs infested the gardens of British Columbia. So far we've escaped an infestation this year. Stink bugs suck the juice out of foliage, fruit, veg and flowers making crops inedible.
Don't use Thuricide near butterfly gardens.
Caterpillar droppings & tattered foliage on a lily.
Cabbage white caterpillar droppings on a cauliflower.
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A cabbage white caterpillar.
Thuricide only kills caterpillars.
A stink bug sucking out the sap from a dahlia leaf. Click on pic for more.
Forest tent caterpillars are controlled with Thuricide.
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Plant of the month
Hardy Fuchsia
Hardy fuchsias flower throughout summer until the first frost.
Prominent stamens protrude beyond the central petals.
An old hardy fuchsia at VanDusen Botanical Gardens.
Winter might kill the stems but they always regrow from their roots in spring.
A pink hardy fuchsia at Butchart Gardens.
Hardy fuchsias prefer shade and moist rich soils.
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Common Name: hardy fuchsia, Magellan fuschia
Botanical Name: Fuchsia magellanica Form: arching, fountain Family: Onagraceae Genus: Fuchsia Species: magellanica Plant Type: tender shrub Mature Size: 5 to 10 feet tall & wide Growth: fast Origin: South America Hardiness Zone: 5 to 10 Foliage: green, simple, 3 or 4 per node whorled, elliptical, 2 to 5 inches long Flowers: red, tubular, prominent stamens, Fruit: oblong berries Stems: red to burgundy, smooth, thin Exposure: shade to part shade Soil: rich soil high in organic matter Uses: shade gardens, containers, border, Attracts: hummingbirds, Invasive Tendencies: Tolerates: deer resistant Propagation: seed, cuttings Pruning: Cut back in early spring above new growth. Comments: The precious, pendulous blossoms of the hardy fuchsias are tougher than they look. They survive shade, are very salt tolerant, are hardy in zone 5 and they flower from June all the way until frost. And to top it off, their flowers are exquisite. Prominent stamens peek out of a long central tubular petals, They are surrounded by coloured sepals. The sepals and petals are oftentimes different colours, which helps identify the many different 2,000 varieties. Hardy fuchsias are either used as perennial or a shrub depending on the climate. The cooler the climate the more likely that it dies back to nothing after frost, then it regrows in spring. No matter where you live, it is always best to protect the plant in the fall with a good layer of mulch, fall leaves or soil. Hardy fuchsias are not tidy plants. Their long, sinewy, flexible stems emerge from the base like a fountain. They weave their way among neighbouring plants adding their pretty flowers along the way. Since hardy fuchsias prefer a moist, well-drained rich soil that contains lots of organic matter, add 3 inch layer of organic mulch on top of the soil. Although hardy fuchsias grow well in the shade, they do mind a few hours of direct sun a day. 
A multi-coloured hardy fuchsia.
Their berries contain viable seeds.
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A brilliant hardy fuchsia with chartreuse foliage is a hard to miss.
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THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
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for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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