The Garden Website.com for July
Amanda's Garden Consulting Company
Celebrating Canada Day, eh.
Garden Chores for July
An elegant regal lily, also known as a royal lily, Lilium regale.
In This Issue
Ketchup & Mustard, a stunning hybrid tea rose.
The Heat is On - Waterwise Gardening - Water Trees Please! - Plants That Don't Like Dry Soil
Drought Gardening - Watering Tips & Techniques
Hungry Plants - Bedding Plants - Peony Leaf Blight - Cuttings
July Garden Stars - July Garden Chores - July Lawn Care
July Flower Arrangement - Plant of the Month: Oakleaf Hydrangea
Pruning in July - Pruning Fruit Trees & Grapes - Summer Rose Care
In the Veggie Garden - Tomatoes - Harvesting - Winter Vegetable Gardening
Powdery Mildew - Plant Eating Beetles Container Growing in July - Helping Pollinators
Drought Gardening - Watering Tips & Techniques
Hungry Plants - Bedding Plants - Peony Leaf Blight - Cuttings
July Garden Stars - July Garden Chores - July Lawn Care
July Flower Arrangement - Plant of the Month: Oakleaf Hydrangea
Pruning in July - Pruning Fruit Trees & Grapes - Summer Rose Care
In the Veggie Garden - Tomatoes - Harvesting - Winter Vegetable Gardening
Powdery Mildew - Plant Eating Beetles Container Growing in July - Helping Pollinators
Fellow Gardeners..
Hello Fellow Gardeners,
Some plants refuse to die. No matter what you do to them, they hang on despite the pulling, the digging, when sprayed with agent orange, lighting them on fire and blowing them up. They are the bane of many gardeners and there’s not much we can do about it other than moving house. Recently, I have visited numerous gardens that Himalayan blackberries, ground elder, bindweed (wild morning glory), English ivy, horsetail, bamboo, buttercups and yellow archangel have run amok. Some of these insidious plants have been blown in by the wind, deposited by birds or have crept in from a neighbouring property, whilst others have been regretfully purchased. Ground elders, the variegated and non-variegated are a good example. They are sold to unsuspecting customers that need a ground cover for difficult places where nothing else will grow. Sadly, they are not warned of their invasive tendencies and their immortality. Bamboo is another example. It’s such a cool looking plant, however, even the clumping bamboo eventually spreads too far and too wide. Horsetail weeds are also often found in contaminated topsoil purchased in bulk and sold by unscrupulous vendors. When talking about immortal plants, the Himalayan blackberry takes the top spot in British Columbia. Their thorny long, supple brambles attack people and animals alike. I’ve only seen them successfully removed by a bulldozer that dug down deep and stripped the land bare. Then there’s bindweed. They look all innocent with their pretty white morning glory blossoms, however they become a tangled mess, smothering and strangling everything in their wake. I confess I succumbed to the pretty flowers and cuteness of sweet violets only to have them crowd out my roses. Roses outrank sweet violets, so I diligently and repeatedly wrenched them from the soil. I can still hear their cries, and I also heard a sigh of relief from the roses. I continue to keep up the fight against sweet violets and buttercups and bindweed – argh! Have a great month in the garden and may all your weeds be mortal. Cheers, Amanda Gift Certificates Available
Get the perfect gift for gardeners and non-gardeners alike with a gift certificate for a personal garden consultation. In the two-hour consultation their gardening questions are answered such as how to lower maintenance, landscape design, trouble shooting, plant ID, lawn care, veggie gardening and other garden related issues. A $200.00 value. Serving Metro Vancouver. Click here to fill out the form.
July's Arrangement
July 2025
This month's cut flower arrangement features roses, hosta flowers and lavender. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements
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Subscribe!
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Water Restrictions
Watering lawns in Metro Vancouver is allowed only one day a week but not so for the garden and veggie patch.
STAGE 1: Lawn watering is restricted to one day a week, but water trees, shrubs and flowers is permitted any day from 5 am to 9 am if using a sprinkler, or any time if hand watering or using drip irrigation. Edible plants (veggies, fruits and herbs) are exempt from regulations. Click on Metro Vancouver for details.
Garden Videos
Tropical Plants
Delve into the world of tropical shrubs with the reference book Ornamental Tropical Shrubs. It features beautiful colour pictures for each plant as well as point form information on suitable growing conditions and all their features. Available at Amazon.ca and Amazon.com.
July's Plant of the Month
Oakleaf Hydrangea
Click on the pic to be redirected.
The Bold & The Beautiful
The oakleaf hydrangea is an impressive shrub for a shady spot of the garden. Click on the pic to be redirected. |
July Garden Stars
Dappled willow, Salix integra 'Hakuro Nishiki', deciduous grafted shrub, colourful foliage, 4' - 6' x 5 to 7ft, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 7.
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Sweet Rosy Oriental hybrid lily, summer flowering bulb, 32-44”, sun, part shade, fragrant. Zones 3-8
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Cape fuchsia, Phygelius capensis, herbaceous perennial or sub shrub, 2’–3’ x 2’, sun to part shade, yellow or pink. Zones 6 to 9.
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Feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium, short-lived herbaceous perennial, 1’-3’x1’-2’, sun, self seeds. USDA Zones 5 to 8.
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Delphinium, herbaceous perennial, 4’-6’ x 2’-3’, full sun. Zones 3 to 7. Click on pic for more.
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Adam’s needle, Yucca filamentosa, broadleaf evergreen, June to July, 4’ to 8’ x 2’ to 3’, sun. Zones 5 to 10.
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Tutsan, sweet-amber, Hypericum androsaemum, deciduous shrub, 2-3’, sun, part shade, yellow blooms, red berries. Zones 5 to 8.
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Bear's breeches, Acanthus mollis, herbaceous perennial, 3’-5’ x 2-3’, sun to part shade. Zones 7 to 11. Click on the pic for more.
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Catalpa, deciduous tree, 50' - 70' x 20 - 40', fragrant flowers, bears long seed pods, sun. Zones 4 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Lucifer montbretia, Crocosmia 'Lucifer', herbaceous perennial, sun to part shade, 2 - 3' x 1 - 2'. Zones 5 to 9.
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Sweet pepperbush/summersweet, Clethra alnifolia 'Vanilla Spice', fragrant deciduous shrub, 3' to 6' tall & wide, sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 8.
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English lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, semi-evergreen sub-shrub, fragrant, sun, 1 -3’. Zones 5 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
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Persian silk tree/mimosa, Albizia julibrissin, deciduous tree, 16 to 52', fragrant, sun and dry soil. Zones 6 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
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Kousa dogwood, Cornus kousa, deciduous tree, 15-24’ x 15-20’, fall colour, reddish tasteless but edible fruit, sun to light shade. Zones 5-8.
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Hardy Fuchsia, F. magellanica, tender deciduous shrub, 4' to 8' , part shade. Zones 6 to 9.
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Patty's Purple hebe, H. buxifolia 'Patty's Purple', broadleaf evergreen shrub, sun, 2'-3' x 1-2'. Zones 9 to 10.
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Peruvian lily, Alstroemeria, tuberous herbaceous perennial, sun to part sun, 1 -3’ x 1 -2’. Zones 8 to 10. Click on the pic for more.
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Shasta daisy, Leucanthemum × superbum, herbaceous perennial, 18” to 2’ x 12” to 18”, sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 9.
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‘Black Lace’ elderberry, Sambucus nigra, deciduous shrub, 6’-8’, fragrant, June, July, black edible berries, sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 7. Click on pic for more.
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Astilbes, herbaceous perennials, 6in to 4ft, moist shade. Zones 3 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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Yellow wax bells, Kirengeshoma palmata, herbaceous perennials, 3’ to 4’ x 2’ to 3’, June to July, part to full shade. Zones 5 to 8.
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'Royal Purple' smokebush, Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple', deciduous shrub, fall colour, 10-15’ x 15’- 20’. Sun to part shade. Zones 4 to 8
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Lychnis coronaria, catchfly, rose campion, evergreen herbaceous perennial, 2 to 3 ft, sun, May to July, drought tolerant, self-sows. Zones 4 to 8.
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Betony, Stachys monieri 'Hummelo', herbaceous perennial, 1.5 to 2 ft., July to September, sun. Zones 4 to 8.
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Daylily, Hemerocallis spp., herbaceous perennial, 10”-12” tall & wide, sun, part shade. Zones 2 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Lupins, Lupinus x hybridus, herbaceous perennial, 3’ – 4’ x 1’ – 1.5’, sun. Zones 4 to 8.
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Japanese Stewartia, Stewartia pseudocamellia, deciduous tree, 20 - 40' x 10 - 25', sun, part shade. Zones 5-8. Click on the pic for more.
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July Garden Chores
Click on the coloured links to be redirected.
Visit Your Garden
There's lots going on in the garden this month.
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July in the garden brings lots and lots of flowers.
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Things happen fast in July’s garden so daily visits are warranted. Look for plants that are losing the fight against plant eating bugs, weeds that have run amok, diseased ridden victims, plants that are falling over, overcrowded areas and those in need of a good stiff drink and a meal.
The Heat is On!
It's too hot & sunny for these hostas.
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Temporary shade saves plants.
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Bare soil has no protection from the elements.
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Curled, brown leaves are a sign of sunscald.
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Bring on the Heat: As temperatures rise, it’s incumbent for us gardeners to provide our plants with an adequate amount of water and food. It’s a stressful time for them as they work hard to keep cool, grow and procreate in less than ideal conditions.
The hotter it gets, the more a plant ‘sweats’ (transpiration) and the more water is lost into the air due to evaporation. There are a few things that mitigate the loss of moisture for both with protection from the sun being the key. Place mulch on the soil, and in fall, plant shade trees on the west and/or north side of the garden. Protect suffering heat-stressed plants by shading them with an umbrella or screen.
The hotter it gets, the more a plant ‘sweats’ (transpiration) and the more water is lost into the air due to evaporation. There are a few things that mitigate the loss of moisture for both with protection from the sun being the key. Place mulch on the soil, and in fall, plant shade trees on the west and/or north side of the garden. Protect suffering heat-stressed plants by shading them with an umbrella or screen.
Waterwise Gardening
Use a timer for convenience.
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Recycled wood chips make a great mulch.
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Mulch retains soil moisture.
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Give plants a deep, long soak.
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Don't rely on drip & soaker hoses in the summer.
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Water Restrictions: In many municipalities, water restrictions are in effect over the summer. In metro Vancouver, watering trees, shrubs and flowers is permitted any day from 5 am to 9 am if using a sprinkler, or any time if hand watering or using drip irrigation. Vegetable gardens are exempt from the regulations. It’s only the lawn that’s restricted to only once a week.
Make it Easy: To reduce the time and stress of having to water in accordance with local irrigation restrictions, add a timer to your faucet with a hose and sprinkler attached. Water in the morning so plants can fully function without suffering stress throughout the day, however, water wilted plants asap.
Reduce the Need to Water: There are numerous ways to reduce the amount of water a garden needs. These common sense, practical methods are effective and simple such as covering the soil with a three inch layer of organic mulch. It keeps the soil cooler, wetter, provides nutrients, and reduces weeds. Here’s more on Drought Gardening, and Mulch & Mulching.
Water Correctly: Without adequate water, plants are more susceptible to insects, diseases and an early death. Give plants a good soaking. To check how far the water has penetrated the soil, dig down with a trowel. The soil should be wet at least 4 in depth. Too little water results in shallow roots that easily dry out. To moisten dry soil, allow the water to puddle then repeat numerous times if necessary. Here's more on Watering Tips & Techniques.
Make it Easy: To reduce the time and stress of having to water in accordance with local irrigation restrictions, add a timer to your faucet with a hose and sprinkler attached. Water in the morning so plants can fully function without suffering stress throughout the day, however, water wilted plants asap.
Reduce the Need to Water: There are numerous ways to reduce the amount of water a garden needs. These common sense, practical methods are effective and simple such as covering the soil with a three inch layer of organic mulch. It keeps the soil cooler, wetter, provides nutrients, and reduces weeds. Here’s more on Drought Gardening, and Mulch & Mulching.
Water Correctly: Without adequate water, plants are more susceptible to insects, diseases and an early death. Give plants a good soaking. To check how far the water has penetrated the soil, dig down with a trowel. The soil should be wet at least 4 in depth. Too little water results in shallow roots that easily dry out. To moisten dry soil, allow the water to puddle then repeat numerous times if necessary. Here's more on Watering Tips & Techniques.
Water Your Trees Please
Water along a tree's dripline, not at the tree trunk.
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Yellow, crispy leaves are signs of drought.
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This katsura's silver cast is due to drought.
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Even our native western red cedar suffer from drought.
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Trees Need Water Too: It’s easy to tell when plants need water because they wilt – but not trees. Their branches certainly don’t droop nor collapse. Imagine if they did. What a sorry sight it would be, but hopefully they would get drink out of it. Trees do show signs of thirst, but they are not obvious. Typically, their leaves fold inwards so the backside of the foliage is visible, which gives the tree a grey, or silvery hue. Foliage appears limp with brown leaf margins (edges) followed by yellowing then they fall off. For severe cases, the tips of the branches die back, and death soon follows. These symptoms also apply to cedars and other conifers.
Watering Trees: Water the entire perimeter of the plants’ canopy (dripline) so the soil becomes thoroughly moist. If using a soaker hose, it takes about 3 hours to deliver one inch of water depending on soil type, hose diameter, and water pressure. For faster delivery, use a sprinkler on low to cover the entire dripline area of the tree. And please don't forget to water any street trees around your property. They have a tough time all year, but especially in the summer.
Watering Trees: Water the entire perimeter of the plants’ canopy (dripline) so the soil becomes thoroughly moist. If using a soaker hose, it takes about 3 hours to deliver one inch of water depending on soil type, hose diameter, and water pressure. For faster delivery, use a sprinkler on low to cover the entire dripline area of the tree. And please don't forget to water any street trees around your property. They have a tough time all year, but especially in the summer.
Plants That Don't Like Dry Soil
Hydrangeas
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Maple trees.
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Dogwoods
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Ornamental flowering cherries.
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Willows
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Failure to keep the soil moist on these following plants will weaken them: azaleas and rhododendrons (Rhododendron species), European and American ashes (Fraxinus species), willows (Salix species) mountain ash (Sorbus aucuparia), birches (Betula species), hydrangeas, tulip trees (Liriodendron tulipifera), skimmias, Japanese stewartias (Stewartia pseudocamellia), sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua), ornamental flowering cherries, plums (Prunus species), dogwoods (Cornus species), Japanese maples, paperbark maples and other maples, horse chestnuts (Aesculus hippocastanum).
Planting in summer is often unsuccessful, so wait until autumn.
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A lily of the valley shrub is somewhere in there.
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It is revealed once it's neighbours are cut back.
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Use simple dollar store to prop up top heavy plants.
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Wait to Plant: It’s best to wait for autumn to plant and transplant as it’s just too hot and dry in the summer.
Overcrowding: Heat loving plants come into their own as temperatures climb, however their cooler neighbours struggle in the heat. As they weaken, their hot pals often overtake them, much to their demise. To rectify, cut back any neighbouring branches that are encroaching on those that are less vigorous.
Support Your Plants: As vines, dahlias and tomatoes continue to grow they often need assistance. Help guide them so get out of control. To prop up fallen plants, use simple trellises from a dollar store. Remove stakes from delphiniums, gladiolus, peonies and other plants once they no longer need them.
Overcrowding: Heat loving plants come into their own as temperatures climb, however their cooler neighbours struggle in the heat. As they weaken, their hot pals often overtake them, much to their demise. To rectify, cut back any neighbouring branches that are encroaching on those that are less vigorous.
Support Your Plants: As vines, dahlias and tomatoes continue to grow they often need assistance. Help guide them so get out of control. To prop up fallen plants, use simple trellises from a dollar store. Remove stakes from delphiniums, gladiolus, peonies and other plants once they no longer need them.
Hungry Plants
This rugosa rose is hungry.
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A jasmine showing signs of a nitrogen deficiency.
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Yellow tomato foliage is a sign of a nitrogen deficiency.
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Yellow Plants? Lack of vigour, slow growth and yellow leaves are signs of a nitrogen deficiency. Feed them with a fertilizer with a high first number (ex: 5-2-3) such as kelp, fish or use compost. For more on fertilizing select Feeding Plants 101 - Fertilizers & Ratios - Nutritional Deficiencies & Toxicities - Organic Plant Food
A Night Sky petunia will reflower if cut back.
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Cut all stems back on petunias to encourage more flowers and to prolong their life.
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Use organic plant foods to feed tired annuals.
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Bedding Plants/Annuals: Revive sad impatiens, petunias, and other annuals, by cutting their stems back by half. This simple act initiates more flowers and increases their lifespan. To speed their recovery, water and feed them with a high nitrogen fertilizer such as fish or kelp plant food.
Remove peony leaves infected with peony leaf blotch.
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Select softwood cuttings that bend but don't break.
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To take cuttings, cut just below a node.
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Peony Leaf Blotch (aka peony measles): Discoloured dark brown splotches on peony leaves is a symptom of peony measles. There is no control for this common peony disease control, just remove and discard infected leaves before winter. Click on Peony Blotch for more info and to learn more about peonies click here.
Cuttings: Clone your favourite shrubs, trees and vines with semi-hardwood cuttings. Select stems that bend without breaking. For more on taking cuttings click here.
Cuttings: Clone your favourite shrubs, trees and vines with semi-hardwood cuttings. Select stems that bend without breaking. For more on taking cuttings click here.
Lawn Care
Weeds always survive the summer but lawns are usually not so lucky.
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A crow digs up a lawn looking for grubs.
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Keep the grass long during the summer.
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This lawn was mowed too short.
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Lawns take a break during the summer as our northern grasses (fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass), when temps are over 24°C (75°F). Despite this, they still need water. Just give them at least an inch a week to keep lawn grubs and weeds at bay.
In Metro Vancouver, make the most of the one day permitted for lawn watering by putting the sprinkler on for one full hour. Fertilize yellow lawns that are hungry with an organic, high nitrogen fertilizer (10-2-4). Don’t apply fertilizer to lawns that haven’t been watered and are yellow from drought.
Mowing: Longer grass blades means longer roots, more food from the resulting lengthier grass blades, which also shades and cools the soil. An added benefit is the grass is so long, the adults of grubs can’t reach the soil to lay their eggs! Set your mower to 3 inches, and mow often so only 1/3 of the grass blades are cut at each mow. Leave short grass clippings on the lawn as they provide nitrogen as they decompose.
Lawn Renovations: Wait until autumn when the weather is cooler and wetter to renovate and install new lawns. Here's more info on lawn care: Lawn Care Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Mossy Lawns - Lawn Reno, Seed & Sod - Lawn Grub Control - Lawn Alternatives
In Metro Vancouver, make the most of the one day permitted for lawn watering by putting the sprinkler on for one full hour. Fertilize yellow lawns that are hungry with an organic, high nitrogen fertilizer (10-2-4). Don’t apply fertilizer to lawns that haven’t been watered and are yellow from drought.
Mowing: Longer grass blades means longer roots, more food from the resulting lengthier grass blades, which also shades and cools the soil. An added benefit is the grass is so long, the adults of grubs can’t reach the soil to lay their eggs! Set your mower to 3 inches, and mow often so only 1/3 of the grass blades are cut at each mow. Leave short grass clippings on the lawn as they provide nitrogen as they decompose.
Lawn Renovations: Wait until autumn when the weather is cooler and wetter to renovate and install new lawns. Here's more info on lawn care: Lawn Care Basics - Lawn Maintenance Schedule - Mossy Lawns - Lawn Reno, Seed & Sod - Lawn Grub Control - Lawn Alternatives
Summer Pruning
Don't wait to cut back spring flowering shrubs.
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Cut back the side shoots of wisterias to a couple of buds.
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Remove all dead branches from trees and shrubs.
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Remove ALL suckers from the base of trees.
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What to Prune Now & What Not To: Summer pruning of fruit trees, wisterias, grapes is an essential part of their maintenance as it promotes flowers, fruit, reduces sucker growth, and keeps them under control. Prune lilacs & other spring bloomers by mid-July at the latest. Any later & you will be removing next year’s blossoms. Remember not to take too much off – only ¼ of growth at one time. Feel free to remove all dead, diseased and broken branches any time of year. Here's more detail on pruning: Pruning Basics 101 - Pruning Tools. Need help? For personal instruction make an appointment here.
Pruning Fruit Trees & Grapes
Thin fruit so they don't touch.
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Apples & pears bear their fruit on stubby stems called fruiting spurs.
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Cut back side shoots on apple trees to create fruiting spurs
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Thin grape clusters for faster ripening and bigger, healthier grapes.
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Apple & Pear Trees: Shorten overly long branches to just above a side branch or bud (node). To create more fruit, cut back the side branches to 2 to 4 buds (nodes). These remaining stubby stems will revert to fruiting spurs in a couple of years. Remove extra fruit so they don’t touch, and any misshapen, small, dead or diseased fruit. Remove all the suckers and watersprouts.
Grape Vines: Cut back all side stems to 2 to 4 buds (nodes). To harvest larger grapes but fewer fruit clusters, remove extra clusters so they are a foot apart. Remove any that are small, misshapen, diseased and dead fruit. For more information on pruning grapes click on Pruning Grapes.
Grape Vines: Cut back all side stems to 2 to 4 buds (nodes). To harvest larger grapes but fewer fruit clusters, remove extra clusters so they are a foot apart. Remove any that are small, misshapen, diseased and dead fruit. For more information on pruning grapes click on Pruning Grapes.
Pruning Clematis, Hedges, Grafted Plants & Shrubs
Cut back Nelly Moser clematis in late winter, early spring.
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Trim hedges before September.
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The graft on this purple witch hazel has failed.
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A rose sucker on the left and a normal rose branch.
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Pruning Clematis: There are many types of clematis and each type requires different pruning methods. It's important to know which one you have, especially if it refuses to blossom. Cutting it back at the wrong time of the year is often the cause. If that’s the case, leave it be and eventually it should flower.To learn more about pruning clematis click on Pruning Clematis and Evergreen Clematis and Montana Clematis.
Pruning Hedges: Get it done before September so the subsequent new growth will be hardened off before cold weather arrives. For those living farther north, get it done by the beginning of August.
Grafted Plants: Many roses, fruit trees, standards, weeping, dwarf and novelty plants are created by joining two or sometimes three plants together. Remove any growth that emerges below the grafts.
Pruning Hedges: Get it done before September so the subsequent new growth will be hardened off before cold weather arrives. For those living farther north, get it done by the beginning of August.
Grafted Plants: Many roses, fruit trees, standards, weeping, dwarf and novelty plants are created by joining two or sometimes three plants together. Remove any growth that emerges below the grafts.
Remove dead flowers on Japanese spireas and other shrubs.
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The same spirea after a bit of tidying up.
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Deadhead lavenders but don't cut back too far.
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Pruning Shrubs: Wait until they finish flowering before cutting them back and doing any thinning. Remove spindly, weak, old and dead stems and ones that grow towards the centre of the plant. Finish off by cutting back the remaining stems by a third. Cut just above an outward facing node (bud, leaf) so any new growth will grow away from the inside of the plant.
After Pruning: Help plants recover quickly so they can recover after their surgery. Water well and then give them some food such as kelp, fish, compost or another organic fertilizer high in nitrogen (the first number). For more on pruning click on Pruning Basics 101 - Pruning Tools. Do you want to learn how to prune? Learn how in your own garden with Amanda, click on Prune Your Own Garden to register.
After Pruning: Help plants recover quickly so they can recover after their surgery. Water well and then give them some food such as kelp, fish, compost or another organic fertilizer high in nitrogen (the first number). For more on pruning click on Pruning Basics 101 - Pruning Tools. Do you want to learn how to prune? Learn how in your own garden with Amanda, click on Prune Your Own Garden to register.
July in the Veggie Garden
Check out your veggie garden daily.
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Edible gardens don't have any water restrictions in Metro Vancouver.
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Mulch veggie beds with straw or newspapers.
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A bountiful harvest.
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July Veggie Gardens: Daily visits to the veggie garden is a must to harvest, weed, water thirsty plants (Vancouver water restrictions don’t include edibles), fertilize hungry crops, control plant eating bugs. If weeds and frequent watering is an issue, use a layer of straw or torn up newspapers as a mulch between plants. Since straw is hard to come by this time of year, remember to pick some up in fall to cover bare veggie beds and to reuse in spring.
A bush beefsteak tomato is a thing of beauty and taste.
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Keep soil evenly moist to prevent splitting.
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Blossom end rot is caused by lack of water and calcium.
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Keep potted tomatoes well fed & watered.
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Epsom salts encourage ripening.
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Tomatoes: Keep the soil evenly moist to prevent fruit from cracking and blossom end rot. Keep water off the foliage to prevent diseases. Lack of flowers and fruit is caused by too much nitrogen fertilizer and/or too much shade. They need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day.
Container Grown Tomatoes: Keep them well fed and watered as you are the only source of sustenance. Without proper care, tomatoes fall prey to blossom end rot, fruit splitting, diseases, insects and a lack flavour due to nutrient deficiencies. It's a good idea to place a drainage tray underneath the pot as it works as a reservoir so nutrients and water doesn't flow away.
To encourage flowers, apply a high phosphorous fertilizer (high middle number: 6-8-6). To promote plant health and speedup ripening, mix 1 to 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts in one gallon of water. Apply as a soil drench or mist the foliage with the solution for quicker results.
Container Grown Tomatoes: Keep them well fed and watered as you are the only source of sustenance. Without proper care, tomatoes fall prey to blossom end rot, fruit splitting, diseases, insects and a lack flavour due to nutrient deficiencies. It's a good idea to place a drainage tray underneath the pot as it works as a reservoir so nutrients and water doesn't flow away.
To encourage flowers, apply a high phosphorous fertilizer (high middle number: 6-8-6). To promote plant health and speedup ripening, mix 1 to 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts in one gallon of water. Apply as a soil drench or mist the foliage with the solution for quicker results.
Remove the suckers from tomatoes to control growth.
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Remove leaves from hidden tomato clusters.
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Cut overly long stems just above the fruit.
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Remove infected tomatoes and plants parts asap.
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Tomato Pruning: Remove suckers that grow at the base of a leaf. Cut back leaves that shade the ripening tomatoes. To tame overly long stems, cut them back just above a fruit or flower cluster.
Here's more information on how to grow tomatoes: Tomato Tips - The Life of Tomato Seedlings to Plants -Taming Tomatoes - Speeding up Tomato Harvest -Tomato Troubles - Saving Tomato Seeds - The Trouble with Tomatoes
Here's more information on how to grow tomatoes: Tomato Tips - The Life of Tomato Seedlings to Plants -Taming Tomatoes - Speeding up Tomato Harvest -Tomato Troubles - Saving Tomato Seeds - The Trouble with Tomatoes
Hill soil over potato plants as they grow.
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Harvest new potatoes when they flower.
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Wait for garlic foliage to brown before harvesting.
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Potatoes: Hill soil over the spuds as they grow to increase harvest and to prevent the spuds from turning green. Baby potatoes are ready to harvest when flowers appear. There’s no need to dig up the plant, just pull out a few taters so the plant continues to grow. To learn more about growing potatoes click here.
Onions, garlic, shallots: Snip off their flowers to encourage larger bulbs. Stop watering when their leaves flop over and harvest when their leaves turn brown. Cure bulbs in a shaded, dry, and cool place, away from sun. This tightens the outer layers, which protects the bulb. Once cured, store in a dry, cool and dark location.
Onions, garlic, shallots: Snip off their flowers to encourage larger bulbs. Stop watering when their leaves flop over and harvest when their leaves turn brown. Cure bulbs in a shaded, dry, and cool place, away from sun. This tightens the outer layers, which protects the bulb. Once cured, store in a dry, cool and dark location.
Wait for green peppers to change colour before picking.
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A harvested broccoli plant continues to produce broccoli heads.
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Plant your winter veggies.
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Protects winter crops with a cloche. Click on pic for more.
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Harvest: Daily harvesting ensures fresh produce picked at their prime. Small zucchinis may not look impressive, but they are much tastier than any giant ones. Scarlet runner beans are edible when small, but tough and woody when left too long. Cut off broccoli stalks only as new ones with grow from the remaining stem. To learn more about when and how to harvest crops click here.
Plant Your Winter Veggies: Sow seeds of winter hardy plants including broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, cilantro, kohlrabi, kale and cabbage. Plant seed potatoes now to harvest in December.
Select an area for your winter garden where the soil drains well and in full sun. Protect plantings from insects with a cloche covered with floating row covers that will also keep them a tad warmer. In fall, add a layer of straw to insulate the soil from the cold. For more click on Winter Veggie Gardening or Cloches - Growing Food - Crop Rotation, Succession & Companion Planting - Harvesting - Growing Potatoes
Plant Your Winter Veggies: Sow seeds of winter hardy plants including broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, cilantro, kohlrabi, kale and cabbage. Plant seed potatoes now to harvest in December.
Select an area for your winter garden where the soil drains well and in full sun. Protect plantings from insects with a cloche covered with floating row covers that will also keep them a tad warmer. In fall, add a layer of straw to insulate the soil from the cold. For more click on Winter Veggie Gardening or Cloches - Growing Food - Crop Rotation, Succession & Companion Planting - Harvesting - Growing Potatoes
A ten-lined beetle.
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Japanese beetle damage. Click on pic for more.
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Powdery mildew on a zucchini leaf.
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Beetle damage on a bean leaf.
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Control powdery mildew organically.
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Plant Eating Beetles: There are three plant eating beetles that turn the foliage of potatoes, beans, apple trees any many other plants to lace. They feed on the tender tissues between leaf veins. The drier and hotter the weather, the more Japanese, Colorado beetles and ten-lined beetles become a problem. To know which one is which, Japanese beetles are a metallic green with white patches on their coppery coloured wings. Ten-lined June beetles are brown with white stripes and Colorado beetles are yellow orange with black stripes on their wing covers. Handpick if you’re not squeamish and place in a cup of soapy, salted water. Spray with neem oil or pyrethrin, grow companion plants near susceptible crops to control and deter them: onions, garlic, rue, tansy, parsley, thyme and other fragrant herbs. Rotate crops next year to further deter infestation.
Powdery Mildew: The white powder on cucumbers, melons, squash, roses, garden phlox and other plants is a fungus called powdery mildew. It first appears on new foliage and flower buds. Keep water off the leaves of susceptible plants and don’t allow soil to dry out. To control this fungus, click here for two safe, organic sprays made from baking soda or milk.
Powdery Mildew: The white powder on cucumbers, melons, squash, roses, garden phlox and other plants is a fungus called powdery mildew. It first appears on new foliage and flower buds. Keep water off the leaves of susceptible plants and don’t allow soil to dry out. To control this fungus, click here for two safe, organic sprays made from baking soda or milk.
Pollinators love radish flowers. Click on pic for more.
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Pollinators love lettuce flowers, resulting in free seeds. Click on pic for more.
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Set a shallow dish filled with water for pollinating insects.
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Aid & Abet Pollinators: They need water so lay out a shallow dish with pebbles and clean water. Allow a few of your carrots, broccoli, lettuce, beets, radishes plants to flower as many beneficial insects love the simple blossoms. As an added bonus, you get free seeds from all those pollinators doing their thing. For more click on Harvesting Seeds & Helping Pollinators.
July Roses
Deadhead roses to encourage more flowers.
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Cut rose canes just above a 5 leaflet leaf.
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Squish aphids as you hose them off.
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Remove leaves with black spot.
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Click on pic for Rose Bloom Balling.
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July Rose Care: After each flush of bloom, remove the dead flowers, water and feed. Cut off spent blooms and roses for floral arrangements just above an outward facing leaf that has 5 to 7 leaflets. For stems without foliage, cut canes back by ¼ to just above a node or side branch. For more on pruning roses click here. After pruning, fertilize with kelp meal, seaweed extract or fish fertilizer. Another option is to apply an inch or two of compost mixed in around the roots. Top it off with a 3-inch layer of mulch.
Black spot on Roses: Remove infected leaves from the soil and plant. Follow up with an application with organic fungicides: neem oil, sulfur and coppercide. For more info click on Roses 101 - Rose Insect & Diseases - Types of Roses - Easy Roses - Pruning Roses - Rose Sawfly - Rose Bloom Balling
Black spot on Roses: Remove infected leaves from the soil and plant. Follow up with an application with organic fungicides: neem oil, sulfur and coppercide. For more info click on Roses 101 - Rose Insect & Diseases - Types of Roses - Easy Roses - Pruning Roses - Rose Sawfly - Rose Bloom Balling
Planter TLC
A trio of planters is protected from the hot afternoon sun.
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Soak dried out baskets in a tub of water.
This planter needs some TLC.
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Don't forget to feed container grown plants as they rely on you to provide them with adequate nutrients. Yellow leaves, poor growth and lack of vigour are sure signs of malnutrition. You can also put an inch or so of compost, well-rotted manure or SeaSoil on top of the soils surface. Mix it in if possible. For more click here.
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THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
Click on the links below to be redirected.
for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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