The Garden Website.com for January
Amanda's Garden Consulting Company
A bushtit hides among dormant January magnolia buds.
The Garden Website for January
A pine tree dressed in fresh January snow.
In This Issue
A fresh layer of snow coats Dortmund rose hips and the cinnamon brown stewartia branches.
Fellow Gardeners - January Flower Arrangement - January Garden Stars
Winter Pruning - Pruning Tools - What to Prune - What to Remove
Trees too Big? - Pruning Fruit Trees - Pruning Apple Trees
Pruning Grapes - Pruning Wisterias - Kill Overwintering Pests & Diseases
Down South - It's All About the Weather - Before & After a Storm - Icy Paths & Driveways
Take Cuttings - Houseplants in Winter - Gift Plants After the Holidays: Amaryllis & Poinsettia
Hummingbirds & Birds in Winter - Critters in the Garden
Plant of the Month: Fraser Photinia
Winter Pruning - Pruning Tools - What to Prune - What to Remove
Trees too Big? - Pruning Fruit Trees - Pruning Apple Trees
Pruning Grapes - Pruning Wisterias - Kill Overwintering Pests & Diseases
Down South - It's All About the Weather - Before & After a Storm - Icy Paths & Driveways
Take Cuttings - Houseplants in Winter - Gift Plants After the Holidays: Amaryllis & Poinsettia
Hummingbirds & Birds in Winter - Critters in the Garden
Plant of the Month: Fraser Photinia
Fellow Gardeners...
Happy New Year fellow gardeners!
Just because it’s winter, it doesn’t mean you can rest on your laurels; there’s gardening to be done. Don’t worry, you don’t have to do any digging, but there’s pruning and controlling overwintering nasties to deal with – weather permitting of course. Another important garden chore of the season, and one of my favorites by far, is pouring over plant and seed catalogues. I try not to succumb to temptation, but I don’t always succeed. Being a plant addict is a gift, and a curse. There are so many totally awesome plants out there, but I’m running out of space and I have a penchant for those that are unique and expensive. I need to win the lottery. It's that time of the year where I ponder what awaits us this year in the garden. What will nature throw at us? I hope we don’t have to duck. Nothing weird please. Nothing extreme. No heat domes, no drought, no flooding and please may the forest fires be few, far between and easily contained. That would be brilliant! Wishing you an absolutely fabulous 2025 and may your garden be productive and floriferous. Happy gardening! Best always, Amanda Need a Garden Consultation?
Click on the picture above to make an appointment,
Prepare for the upcoming gardening year with a consultation with Amanda. Book an appointment for a consultation here.
January's Arrangement
January's arrangement features Japanese spotted laurel foliage and a weeping pine branches. For a numbered guide to the specific flower names and for other arrangements go to Monthly Flower Arrangements.
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Gardening Classes
Join Amanda for Saturday garden classes in Langley, B.C.
Pruning the Right Way Choose either - Jan 18 or Feb 8 or Feb 22, 9:30 am to 4:00 pm. Cost $59.99. Learn what to prune, when and how in the morning class. After lunch, the class continues outside for demonstrations and hands-on pruning. Due to its popularity this workshop is offered on three different dates. Lawn Care Saturday, March 8, 9:30 am to 12:00 pm Learn how to have a grub free lawn, eradicate weeds & moss with correct maintenance. Preparing for Spring Saturday, March 8 2024, 1:00 pm to 4:00 pm Learn what to do to prepare the garden for the growing season, and how to reduce your maintenance. Grow Your Own Food Saturday, April 5, 9:30 am to 3:30 pm Learn all about growing healthy, delicious food organically from seeds to plants in containers & in the garden. Garden Consultation
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January Garden Stars
Paperbark maple, Acer griseum, deciduous tree, zones 4-8, 20 to 30' x 15 to 25', sun to part shade. Click on the pic for more.
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Dawn viburnum, V. x bodnantense 'Dawn', deciduous shrub, 8 to 10ft x 4 to 6ft, full sun, part shade. Zones 5 to 7. Click on the pic for more.
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David viburnum, Viburnum davidii, broadleaf evergreen, 2-3’ x 3-4’, white blooms April to May, sun to part shade, blue/black berries, butterflies. Zones 7 to 9
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Japanese spotted, laurel, Aucuba japonica, broadleaf evergreen shrub, 6-10’ x 5-9’, shade. Zones USDA Zones 6 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Charity Mahonia, M. x media 'Charity', broadleaf evergreen shrub, 10’ to 15’, winter flowers, black berries, sun to part shade. Zones 7 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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'Yuletide' winter camellia, Camellia sasanqua 'Yuletide', broadleaf evergreen shrub, fragrant winter flowers, sun to part shade, 6’ to 14’ x 5’ to 7’. Zones 7 to 9. Click on pic for more.
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Chinese witch hazel, Hamamelis mollis, 10 - 15ft tall & wide, fragrant blooms Jan to March, sun to part shade. Zones 5 to 8. Click on the pic for more info.
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Winter heath, Erica carnea, 1' x 2', blooms from Dec to April, sun to light shade, broadleaf evergreen, ground cover, Zones 5 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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Late cotoneaster, Cotoneaster lacteus, broadleaf evergreen shrub, 6-12’ x 4-10’, sun, part shade, white spring flowers. Zones 6 to 8
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Himalayan sweetbox, Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis, broadleaf evergreen, 2-5' x 2-6', shade, fragrant. Zones 6 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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Himalayan white birch, Betula utilis var. jacquemontii, deciduous tree, 30-40ft x 18-20ft. Zones 4 -7.
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Lily-of-the-valley shrub, Pieris japonica, broadleaf evergreen, sun to part shade, 9–12’ x 6–8’. Zones 5 to 8. Click on the pic for more.
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Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola', Japanese forest grass, herbaceous perennial, 1’-1.5’, flowers July to Aug, part shade. Zones 5 to 9. Click on pic for more
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Lenten rose, Helleborus spp., 18 -24" x 24". Partial shade, blooms Feb to May, herbaceous perennial. Zones 4 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
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Wintergreen, Gaultheria procumbens, broadleaf evergreen groundcover, 6” x 1’, white summer blooms, red berries fall to winter, part shade to shade. Zones 3-8. Click on pic for more.
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Heavenly bamboo, Nandina domestica, broadleaf evergreen, white June flowers, orange berries, sun to shade, 3-8’ x 2-4’. Zones 8 to 10. Click on pic for more.
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Winter jasmine, Jasminum nudiflorum, deciduous vine, 10 to 15ft, sun to shade, winter flowers. Zones 6 to 10.
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Beautyberry, Callicarpa bodinieri, deciduous shrub, 3 to 9 ft.sun to part shade, North American native. Zones 8 to 10. Click on the pic for more.
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Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo 'Compacta', broadleaf evergreen, 10’-20’ tall & wide, winter flowers & fruit. Zones 7 to 9. Click on the pic for more.
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Ilex aquifolium 'Argentea Marginata', variegated English holly, broadleaf evergreen, part to full sun, 15’ – 20’ x 8’ to 12’, females bear berries. Zones 6 to 9.
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Japanese skimmia, S. japonica, broadleaf evergreen, 3-4' x 4-5'. Fragrant flowers winter to spring. Red berries on female plants. Part to full shade. Zones 6 to 8. Click on pic for more.
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JAnuary Garden Chores
Baby, it's cold out there.
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Be careful of falling icicles hanging from eaves.
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Oh no!
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Walk Around the Garden: It’s a good idea to don your winter woolies and venture out into the garden to make sure everything is tickety boo. You never know what Old Man Winter has been up to while you’ve been inside drinking rummy eggnog in front of a cozy fire with your brown cat on your lap for the past month. Not that I’ve ever done that – ahem.
A Garry Oak's, Quercus garryana, perfect silhouette needs no pruning.
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It's not necessary to prune trees if they are looking good. American elm, Ulmus americana pictured.
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Winter Pruning: Pruning trees, shrubs and vines while they are dormant encourages vigorous spring growth and makes fruit trees more productive. When done properly, it also increases plant health. Have a clear purpose in mind before chopping anything off. Note that it is not necessary to cut back everything in the garden. Here’s more on Winter Pruning.
After cleaning tools, spray them with vegetable oil.
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Dull tools make pruning much more difficult.
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To make pruning easier, use the right tool for the job.
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Pruning Tools: To make pruning easier and safer, use the right tool for the job. Pruners must be clean and sharp. Disinfect blades with wet wipes, isopropyl alcohol or combine equal parts Lysol to water. Place the solution in a spray bottle for convenience and spray tools after each plant. Avoid bleach as it’s corrosive. Dry tools before spraying with Pam or another vegetable oil. For more on the different types of pruning equipment and how to maintain them, click on Pruning Tools and click here for a quickie video.
Prune rose-of-sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), and other fall flowering plants.
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Now's the time to cut back conifers. A juniper pictured.
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Remove all old stems that are no longer red on red twigged dogwoods, Cornus sericea.
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What to Prune: The golden pruning rule is to cut back plants right after flowering. Pruning plants at the wrong time of year removes their flowers and, in some cases, sets them back. Now is the time to trim summer and fall flowering plants such as rose-of-sharon, abelia, Japanese spirea, butterfly bush and dogwoods. Other suitable plants include maples, oaks, junipers, pines and other conifers. Prune apples, pears, other fruit trees as well as grapes and kiwis.
What to Remove: Cut off suckers, watersprouts, and any broken, dead and diseased stuff. Remove branches that grow towards a plant’s centre to allow air to circulate and the sun to penetrate. Cut back overly long branches and ones that are in the way of walking by. Pruning Basics 101 - Winter Pruning
What to Remove: Cut off suckers, watersprouts, and any broken, dead and diseased stuff. Remove branches that grow towards a plant’s centre to allow air to circulate and the sun to penetrate. Cut back overly long branches and ones that are in the way of walking by. Pruning Basics 101 - Winter Pruning
'Topping' trees is harmful to trees and it becomes a safety risk.
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Trees have massive root systems that extend past their canopy (dripline).
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Instead of growing branches, topped trees develop suckers.
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Tree too Big? Cutting back all the limbs from a tree because you’re afraid it will fall over is a massive mistake. Any subsequent growth (if it doesn’t die from such an atrocious act) are referred to as ‘suckers’. These stems are not attached to the core of the tree, so they easily break off. ‘Tree topping’ is totally unnecessary as trees have huge root systems that extend far beyond their canopy so they don’t fall down. Here's more on pruning: Pruning Basics 101 - Winter Pruning
Hiring someone to do your pruning? Do your research. There are many untrained hackers that boast years of experience. Even if that’s true, experience is not the same as knowledge, education and training. If they agree to top a tree by cutting off all or shortening all of its branches, then they don’t know what they are doing. Hire a qualified arborist with a certification from the International Society of Arborists (ISA) to do the work. Take the time to ask for references and inspect their work from previous jobs. Also make sure they are insured and check their status with WorkSafe. To protect yourself if anything untowards happens, get liability insurance – just in case.
Hiring someone to do your pruning? Do your research. There are many untrained hackers that boast years of experience. Even if that’s true, experience is not the same as knowledge, education and training. If they agree to top a tree by cutting off all or shortening all of its branches, then they don’t know what they are doing. Hire a qualified arborist with a certification from the International Society of Arborists (ISA) to do the work. Take the time to ask for references and inspect their work from previous jobs. Also make sure they are insured and check their status with WorkSafe. To protect yourself if anything untowards happens, get liability insurance – just in case.
Now's the time to prune apples & pears.
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Cut off all diseased branches.
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Cut back the side shoots of apple trees to create more fruit.
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An apple's fruiting spur.
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Pruning Fruit trees: Cut off diseased, spindly, broken and dead branches. Remove all stems that grow towards the centre of the tree, and ones rub against each other. After pruning, spray all fruit trees with a Dormant Oil/Lime Sulfur to kill overwintering insect and diseases.
Pruning Apple Trees: Remove all dead, diseased, broken and spindly stems. Shorten overly long stems to a side branch, bud or fruiting spur. Cut off all suckers from the ground, stem and canopy. Suckers are odd looking branches that grow stiffly upright and don’t develop branches. Cut back the side stems on all major branches so only 2 to 4 buds remain. It will take a couple of years for those remaining short stems to convert fruiting spurs. Follow up by spraying the entire plant with dormant oil and lime sulfur.
Pruning Apple Trees: Remove all dead, diseased, broken and spindly stems. Shorten overly long stems to a side branch, bud or fruiting spur. Cut off all suckers from the ground, stem and canopy. Suckers are odd looking branches that grow stiffly upright and don’t develop branches. Cut back the side stems on all major branches so only 2 to 4 buds remain. It will take a couple of years for those remaining short stems to convert fruiting spurs. Follow up by spraying the entire plant with dormant oil and lime sulfur.
Prune wisterias to create more flowers and to control their growth.
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A wisteria after the side shoots have been cut back to a few buds.
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Prune grape vines in winter and summer.
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A grape vine once the side shoots have been cut back to a couple of buds.
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Pruning Grapes: Prune off all the lower branches so only one main upright stem remains. From that main trunk, select two stems on opposing sides of the trunk. Tie each of the side branches along a fence, wire or other form of a lateral, horizontal support. After pruning, spray with dormant oil/lime sulfur to reduce overwintering insects and diseases. For more on pruning grapes click here.
Pruning Wisterias: Cut back all side (lateral) branches that grow from major stems back to just 2 to 4 buds to create flowering spurs. This not only tames these rambunctious vines, but it also encourages more blossoms.
Learn How to Prune in Your Garden: For more information and to register click Pruning Help.
Pruning Wisterias: Cut back all side (lateral) branches that grow from major stems back to just 2 to 4 buds to create flowering spurs. This not only tames these rambunctious vines, but it also encourages more blossoms.
Learn How to Prune in Your Garden: For more information and to register click Pruning Help.
Spray dormant oil & lime sulfur on deciduous plants only.
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Dormant oil and lime sulfur kit.
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Scale insects are controlled with dormant oil & lime sulfur.
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Caterpillar damage on an apple tree.
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Control black spot on roses.
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Kill Overwintering Pests & Diseases: Spray dormant oil/lime sulfur on fruit trees: apples, cherries, peaches and any other deciduous trees and shrubs to kill overwintering pests and diseases. This organic treatment kills overwintering insects and diseases: black spot on roses, scale insect, spider mites, caterpillars: peach leaf curl, rust, brown rot and downy mildew. To learn more, click on Dormant Oil/Lime Sulfur.
Bring orchids inside when temps dip to 40°F (4 °C).
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Wrap orchids that are growing in trees when temps dip.
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Bring potted citrus trees inside when frost is predicted.
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This chandelier tree (Medinilla cumingii) must be protected from frost.
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Down South: I used to live in Florida, so I know that Old Man Winter sometimes comes down for a visit. Check nighttime lows especially on cold, clear, cloudless nights. Protect potted citrus trees and other vulnerable frost-tender plants by bringing them inside or place incandescent 60 to 100-watt light bulb within their canopy. Wrap them with frost blankets or other breathable fabric from the ground up. Bring orchids inside when the temperature dips down to 40°F (4 °C). If you can’t bring them into a frost free location, wrap them with cloth, frost blankets or other breathable fabric. Protect other tender plants the same way with fabric, or cover with soil, mulch, leaves, palm fronds. Plastic is not a good insulator and causes plants to rot. For more click on Winterize Your Garden.
Strong winter winds felled this Douglas fir branch.
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Unseasonal warm temps fools early flowering plants, like this Higan flowering cherry.
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It's all about the Weather: Gale force winter winds are unkind to trees. They break branches and knock them down. Heavy snow disfigures shrubs and breaks there branches. Plummeting temperatures put plants in peril, especially where they are not used to temperate winters Another plant killer is unseasonably warm temperatures in the middle of winter. It really messes with plants. Some may even think its spring and burst into bloom only to be killed by subsequent freezing temperatures.
Secure garden furniture.
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Keep storm drains free of snow & debris.
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Heavy snow crushed this globe cedar.
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Pet friendly de-icers are available.
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Before a Storm: Of course, there’s nothing we can do to control the weather but it’s a good idea to pay attention to it. When storms are predicted, remove all lose objects that are left outside. Secure garden furniture, trampolines, arbours and anything else that can fly around. Cut back any hanging and broken branches from trees and large shrubs. Move pots and potted plants into sheltered areas next to the house or other structures. To prevent flooding, remove all debris from city storm drains.
After a Storm: Use a broom or a hockey stick to knock snow off sagging branches. Cut off any broken ones. Stay away from downed power lines and call your power company asap.
Icy paths & driveways: There are numerous types of de-icers that are safe for pets and plants. Salt de-icer alternatives are available at home hardware stores. Sand, organic kitty litter and sawdust are other suitable options.
After a Storm: Use a broom or a hockey stick to knock snow off sagging branches. Cut off any broken ones. Stay away from downed power lines and call your power company asap.
Icy paths & driveways: There are numerous types of de-icers that are safe for pets and plants. Salt de-icer alternatives are available at home hardware stores. Sand, organic kitty litter and sawdust are other suitable options.
Want more roses? Take hardwood cuttings when they are dormant.
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To make cuttings, cut just below a node (bud).
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Place cuttings in fresh potting soil & overwinter in a protected location.
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It takes 2 to 4 months for hardwood cuttings to form roots.
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Take cuttings: It’s surprisingly easy to make new plants while stems are dormant with hardwood cuttings. Although roots are slow to develop, this method is usually quite successful. To learn more about the different types of cuttings click here.
Houseplants have a tough time during the winter.
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Additional lighting helps indoor plants become more robust.
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Spider mites infest plants that are kept too dry.
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Houseplants & Tropicals in Winter
It’s not the best time of the year for houseplants due to central heating, dry air and lack of sunlight. Not only are the days too short and the nights too long, and the sun is pitifully feeble. To keep them happy and healthy, put them under grow lights attached to a timer. Overwatering is the number one houseplant killer so feel the soil before adding more. To learn more about growing healthy tropicals and other houseplants, click on Houseplants in Winter.
It’s not the best time of the year for houseplants due to central heating, dry air and lack of sunlight. Not only are the days too short and the nights too long, and the sun is pitifully feeble. To keep them happy and healthy, put them under grow lights attached to a timer. Overwatering is the number one houseplant killer so feel the soil before adding more. To learn more about growing healthy tropicals and other houseplants, click on Houseplants in Winter.
It's difficult getting amaryllis to rebloom but it is possible.
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Remove spent amaryllis flowers from their green stems.
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Even if poinsettias don't reflower, they make pretty houseplants.
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Gift Plants After the Holidays
Amaryllis: Cut off their spent flowers then place in a sunny window and water sparingly. Cut off leaves and stems once they turn yellow. Place in a cool (12-15 °C, 55-60 °F), dark place and don’t water. Keep the bulb in this dormant phase for four to twelve weeks. For Christmas blossoms, dormancy should start in late August to early September. In late October, move to a sunny and warm location and water well. If you live in USDA growing zones 9, plant them outside in a sunny location.
Poinsettias: Keep in front of a sunny window and water when soil is slightly dry. Getting them to rebloom is difficult, but you can always try. If you live in USDA zones 9 and up, plant poinsettias outside away from any streetlamps. To learn more about poinsettias click here.
Amaryllis: Cut off their spent flowers then place in a sunny window and water sparingly. Cut off leaves and stems once they turn yellow. Place in a cool (12-15 °C, 55-60 °F), dark place and don’t water. Keep the bulb in this dormant phase for four to twelve weeks. For Christmas blossoms, dormancy should start in late August to early September. In late October, move to a sunny and warm location and water well. If you live in USDA growing zones 9, plant them outside in a sunny location.
Poinsettias: Keep in front of a sunny window and water when soil is slightly dry. Getting them to rebloom is difficult, but you can always try. If you live in USDA zones 9 and up, plant poinsettias outside away from any streetlamps. To learn more about poinsettias click here.
A woodpecker appreciates the suet cake.
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Check birdfeeders often as seeds quickly rot with snow & rain.
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A thick sock keeps hummingbird nectar a tad warmer.
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Birds: Winter birdies have it tough. There’s limited food and shelter and its bloody cold out there. They appreciate a steady supply of fresh birdseed and suet. Inspect feeders often to make sure seeds are not a mouldy mess. Discard the seeds and disinfect the feeder. Dry thoroughly before refilling with fresh seed.
Hummingbirds: In the Pacific Northwest, Anna’s hummingbirds stick around for winter and don’t migrate south. These crazy cool birds need nectar to survive and I’m happy to help them out. They are delightful little garden visitors. The only issue is trying to keep the nectar flowing when temperatures drop to a few degrees below freezing. Luckily, there are ways to keep it from turning into ice, to learn more click here.
Hummingbirds: In the Pacific Northwest, Anna’s hummingbirds stick around for winter and don’t migrate south. These crazy cool birds need nectar to survive and I’m happy to help them out. They are delightful little garden visitors. The only issue is trying to keep the nectar flowing when temperatures drop to a few degrees below freezing. Luckily, there are ways to keep it from turning into ice, to learn more click here.
Rabbits like to eat the tender new buds on plants.
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Deer damage on a cedar hedge.
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Racoons are desperate for food during the winter months.
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Order from plant & seed catalogues.
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Critters in the Garden: Whether it’s deer, bunnies or other wildlife, it’s winter and there’s not much to eat. They are hungry and they are just trying to survive. With that said, there are ways to curb their enthusiasm and to deter them from dining al fresco in your garden. To learn more, click on Critters in the Garden.
Order Seeds & Plants: Order early to avoid disappointment. Click on Plant Catalogues for a list of mostly Canadian suppliers and those that ship to Canada.
Order Seeds & Plants: Order early to avoid disappointment. Click on Plant Catalogues for a list of mostly Canadian suppliers and those that ship to Canada.
January's Plant of the month
Fraser Photinia
Photinias have bright red, glossy new leaves.
Photinias are bold, coarse & bodacious.
A photinia that has not been sheared has a beautiful profile.
Their pretty white flower clusters are often cut off to promote new red leaves.
Photinias are large evergreen shrubs that need lots of space,
A sheared photinia hedge.
Give photinias space to prevent leafspot diseases.
Initial leafspot disease symptoms.
The initial spots on infected leaves coalesce to become big blotches.
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Common Name: Fraser Photinia, Red Tip Photinia
Botanical Name: Photinia x fraseri Form: upright, round Family: Rosaceae Genus: Photinia Hybrid: x fraseri Plant Type: broadleaf evergreen shrub Mature Size: 10-20 ft. x 5-10 ft. Growth: fast Origin: Asia Hardiness Zone: 7 to 9 Foliage: alternate, simple, oval to elliptic, 3 -4” long, finely serrated margins, leathery, new foliage is shiny and a deep red, copper, maroon that matures to a dark green Flowers: fragrant, April, May, white, 1/3”, 6" wide panicles (clusters) Fruit: showy, red pome (uncommon in certain climates) Exposure: full sun for the best colour & flowering Soil: prefers well-drained loam, slightly alkaline Uses: hedge, screen, accent, specimen, winter interest, borders, woodland Toxicity: toxic to horses Attracts: bees, birds Invasive Tendencies: Texas, USA Tolerates: alkaline soils, short periods of drought Propagation: semi-hardwood cuttings in midsummer Pruning: thin in winter, shear after leaves mature to green to promote new red foliage Problems: leaf spot disease (Entomosporium maculatum) Comments: Fraser photinias are bold looking plants that are known for their shiny deep red new foliage. This large evergreen shrub is often used as a hedge or screen to provide privacy and to delineate property lines and garden beds. Photinias are also quite versatile as they make a striking tree when trained to one single trunk. Although they are grown for their brilliant red foliage, they also bear clusters of pretty white flowers in late April to May. Although they are fragrant, some find their aroma unpleasant. Care Photinias need good air circulation and must not be overcrowded as the lack of air flow encourages the debilitating leaf spot disease, Entomosporium maculatum. This fungus defoliates plants leaving sparse, pitiful specimens in its wake. Symptoms first appear as tiny, round bright red spots on the upper and lower leaf surfaces. As the disease progresses the small spots merge into maroon blotches. Leaf spots on mature foliage have light brown to grew centres with red borders. As the disease progresses, the infected foliage drops from the plant resulting in a sparse and sad loving plant. To promote healthy plants and dissuade leaf spot, plant in full sun. They tolerate shade but bear fewer flowers and they are more susceptible to leaf spot diseases. In hot climates, protect plants from strong afternoon sun. To further prevent disease, locate in areas where air circulates freely. When used as hedging, space them 5 to 8 feet apart. Rake up fallen foliage from the ground, then mulch with 3 inches of an organic mulch to prevent the spread of fungi. Soil: Plant photinias in a loamy soil that drains well as soggy soil promotes root rot and leaf spot disease. Amend heavy clay soils with 50% compost to improve drainage. Photinias are one of a few plants that grow well in slightly alkaline soils with a pH of 6.5 to7.5. Pruning: Thin photinias in winter to promote light inside the plant and to allow air to flow freely. To promote their spectacular red foliage, prune or shear in spring after the leaves turn green. If you want them to flower, prune them after flowering. Sadly, photinias are often pruned just before they flower, which unfortunately eliminates their blossoms for the sake of their stunning red leaves. Cultivars: ‘Red Robin’ – 9’-12’, resistant to leaf spot diseases ‘Little Red Robin’ – 2’-3’, resistant to leaf spot diseases ‘Pink Marble’ – 7’-14’ x 6’-10’, pink new foliage with white variegated margins 
The initial spots on infected leaves coalesce to become big blotches.
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THE GARDEN WEBSITE INDEX
Click on the links below to be redirected.
for the tropical Gardener
While working in Florida as horticultural consultant, it became apparent that there was a need for a book on tropical shrubs. There are so many wonderful shrubs to choose from, so I wrote a reference book to make the selections easier. Ornamental Tropical Shrubs includes pictures in full colour and information about the plants in point form. So if you live in the tropics and subtropics and need a reference book on tropical shrubs, or you just want to have a look-see click here.
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